Bryan the Snail's workbench.

[bigbadbadge]

_{Hi Bryan}

 

_{Good to see some progress, will keep an eye on as still have my H class to build, Finished detailing the R1, just need to add the coal.} 

 

_{Keep up the good work}

_{All the best}

_Chris

[DLT]

Hi Bryan,

 

Congratulations on your retirement and no longer being slave to the 9-to-5

The loco is looking great, and I hope everything works out for you.

 

All the best,

Dave.

[gz3xzf]

Handrails!

 

Back in the day I used to leave fitting handrails until after the paint was dry, I think I must have had a naive belief that all locos had shiny handrails. I was going to do the same with these two, but it suddenly dawned on me the other day that all the locos I have climbed over during my heritage railway career have the handrails painted the same colour as the loco underneath. So over the last couple of days I have fitted the handrails.

 

Here are a couple of pictures of the H showing the cab, tank front and boiler/smokebox handrails. I also shaped the Markits vacuum pipe for the front of the loco which is temporarily fitted to the front buffer beam with some blu-tack.

The whitemetal tab on the left-hand tank front was deformed so it broke up whist drilling the hole through it, so to rescue the situation I soldered the brass wire forming a blob at the top to file down, the remainder of them, on both locos, were superglued in place.

 

 

Only one picture of the R1, again I have fitted handrails to the cab, tank front and boiler/smokebox.

 

Edited October 2, 2023 by gz3xzf
Re-adding photos.

[Compound2632]

One of the most exciting things in the very early days of Model Railway Journal were the Rice/Arkinstall articles on building a hyper-compensated ornate-liveried Wills (as was then) H class. As I recall, there was a lot of faff replacing whitemetal with brass (or even plastikard?) around the rear end in an attempt to get the centre of gravity between the drivers. Now 32 years later Hornby are doing one - how times change! But yours is already full of character in the bare whitemetal and brass. 

 

I don't know much about SE&CR locos but did you accidentally drop a heavy weight on the R1's dome?

[warren haywood]

Thought you might like this one, a D although it's 7mm. I've just finished painting it

[DLT]

WOW!  I take my hat off to anyone who attempts the SECR Livery.

Please can I ask what sort of paint you used?

Many thanks,

Dave.

[alfsboy]

Dont forget SE do the SE&CR decals for them.They  look good .I used Tamiya gloss green with dab of yellow on a Wainwright C

[gz3xzf]

I don't know much about SE&CR locos but did you accidentally drop a heavy weight on the R1's dome?

 

Stephen, the R1's only ever comprised of 13 locos (rebuilt from the SER Stirling designed R class), of the 13 there were 8 variants! A couple retained the Stirling wrap over cab & short chimney for working the Whitstable Branch, some got a new Wainwright cab, some had ramsbottom safety valves and some had Ross pop valves, South-Eastern Finecast include a very useful sheet with some of the variations detailed. I am building 31174 which from the photos I have found and SEF information sheet had a flat topped dome with a Wainwright cab and Ross pop safety valves.

 

Warren, I am afraid these two are going to be boring 1950's BR black, although that D class is lovely.

Edited January 29, 2017 by gz3xzf

[warren haywood]

WOW!  I take my hat off to anyone who attempts the SECR Livery.

Please can I ask what sort of paint you used?

Many thanks,

Dave.

It's cellulose deep Brunswick green. The NRM have painted 737 in that colour and as it's a model of the preserved loco well.........

[gz3xzf]

Good evening Gentlemen.

 

My thoughts have turned to couplings, as I am a lazy retired bloke now (!!!  ) I've decided the years of fiddling with prototype couplings are over and will be fitting the miniature tension lock; mainly because the RTR locos I have are already fitted with them. I would quite like to use NEM pockets so that then can be temporarily removed if required.

 

I have found the Parkside pockets, but has anybody else any thoughts/experience on which is the best type for kit builders and where to get them?

 

Thanks for looking.

[bigbadbadge]

Hi Bryan

 

Wow retirement (I hope I can make it).  I would love more modelling time too.  I have been pondering couplings and am still not sure what to do yet, I have some auto couplings to play with and try out also read about some in a book by Ian rice on modifying and improving RTR goods wagons which is a good book and may try this method but not sure yet.  I was also looking at the newer standard couplings with part of a staple glued to the dropper to allow a magnet to lift it up which I saw on the lovely Stockton Mill Layout in a back issue of Railway modeller.  So plenty of food for thought.

I have replied to your question in my D3 thread and use Cyanocrylate glue which is great stuff.

 

Keep up the good work

All the best
Chris

[gz3xzf]

The grills are not that bad to attach, I am using a Mainly trains etch and they are not correct as they are 6 bar and the D3s were 4 bar windows as far as I can tell.  They are stuck on with Cyanocrylate glue I use Expo thick which is also good for gap filling, I also use the thin stuff to flow into joints and they are both good.  I hope that helps.

 

Chris

 

Thanks for the information, I had look for Mainly Trains today and found their web site says they have stopped trading, so I have E-mailed 8 other suppliers of etched accessories to see if any one else makes similar parts, I have had a negative from 4, still waiting on the other 4.

 

The other option is to use the holes that SEF cast into the cab back sheet and some thin wire, which is what I thought you had done on your D3.

 

Well back to the drawing board for the moment, if anyone else has thoughts on NEM coupling pockets please?

 

Edited February 8, 2017 by gz3xzf

[bigbadbadge]

Hi Bryan

 

No Worries, I cheated I am afraid by using the etched sheet.  I don't know who else does them.  I would hope someone would take over the etches but I have not seen anything anywhere re that I will keep an eye out and let you know if I see any.  If you do them out of wire the result will be amazing I am sure.

 

Keep up the good work

All the best

Chris

[notam]

I have built a number of these  and you really have to keep them square.  If any one really has trouble with the chassis  try using a Hornby M7 chassis  . The wheel base is the same  but replace the bogie with the Finecast  just move it slightly forward . You need a drawing for the position  and cut a little of the chassis.  .  I will add photo of one I have done later.

[gz3xzf]

Hi Readers

 

This week I have been doing lots of odd jobs, but have managed to do some bits on the R1, I decided that I wanted to have sand-pipes as the R1 appears to have six of them, four forward ones, one on each of the two front axles and two rear ones under the cab. As four of the sandboxes are hidden behind footsteps they were easy to sort. The front sandboxes are under the running plate and are attached to the body, I didn't want to have the pipes attached to the body as I thought they would be too delicate. So I designed a small bracket using some Nickel Silver offcuts and 0.7mm brass wire: -

 

Drill a 0.7mm hole at the end of a strip of NS strip and solder the brass wire into the hole, put a couple of bends in the wire and cut off to the correct length: -

 

Then solder the bracket to the frames so the the wire appears to come out of the bottom of the sandbox (or behind the steps): -

 

 

Here is a shot of the chassis and the body fitted together: -

 

 

I am going to see if I can do the same for the front of the H class, the rear sand pipes on the H are already fitted as can be seen in post #45.

 

That's all for now, thanks for reading.

Edited October 2, 2023 by gz3xzf
Re-adding photos.

[gz3xzf]

Hi

 

Couplings on the H today, I have sorted a method for back and front, but due to the shape of things they are different. Originally I wanted to fit NEM coupling pockets, but there wasn't enough room on the bogie at the back.

So here goes, the raw materials are, one Parkside Dundas PA34 mounting block, some I beam plasti-struct, a coupling to fit the mounting block and a Bachmann 36-025 mini short coupling: -

 

I drilled a countersunk 8BA clearance hole, glued two short lengths of the plasti-struct to one of the mounting blocks and glued it between the frames at the front so that the body securing screw goes through the hole. Also in this photograph you can see the sand pipes I have added to the front, note these are just behind the sandboxes so that they hopefully will look like they come from the right place: -

 

Here is a shot with the coupling in place: -

 

Now on to the bogie at the rear, for this I fashioned a block from the white-metal EM gauge bogie frame stretcher which I soldered thus: -

 

I drilled and tapped an 8BA hole, I cut down one of the Bachmann mini couplings and screwed it to the block, here is the underside: -

 

Here are some photos of the finished articles the right way up: -

 

 

I am now going to move onto the R1.

 

That's all for now folks!

Edited October 2, 2023 by gz3xzf
Re-adding photos.

[gz3xzf]

Hi Everyone

 

This week I have been looking at couplings for the R1, I wanted to use more of the NEM coupling pockets but discovered that the location of the body screws would not allow it. So I have resorted to more of the Bachmann miniature tension lock couplings, I first thought of using some plastistruct box section and gluing it in place with the coupling attached. I then realised that if I used brass box section I could solder it to the chassis. I used some 4.76mm square box section and cut two 11mm lengths, I drilled a 1.5mm hole halfway along one side and positioned them at each end and soldered them in place. I used some small self-tapping screws to attach the coupling to the box section.

Here are some photos, hopefully they are self explanatory: -

 

 

Edited October 2, 2023 by gz3xzf
Re-adding photos.

[gz3xzf]

Changeable in Dorset today, started off pouring with rain and it is now sunny (I should really check to see if the grass is dry enough to mow! ).

 

Been playing with the video option of my camera again today, I have got to the point that I really must paint these two, therefore I have put them both together in running order and had a last shake down before stripping apart for painting. I have also been looking back through this thread and it has been 3 years since I started the H class and about 2 & a bit years since I started the R1 class. So here is a short video of the two running up and down the coal stage on my sons layout. I had to run them here as the R1 will only go round the small radius Hornby points under protest and the H class will not do it at all: -

 

 

I have also given the two of them some running in, they have each spent an hour running at about half speed in both directions. I checked the decoders and motors afterwards to make sure neither were drawing too much current. The H was all fine, but the R1's motor was quite warm, but as I am only going to run them on an end-to-end layout I think this will be OK.

 

That is all for today, I am going to trawling through the forum now looking at the best way to clean the models before painting, those who read this thread often will know I have been threatening paint for probably a year now, but I am really nervous about painting as it will be the first time with a spray (although it is only Halfords cans at the moment) as this will be new to me.

 

Thanks for reading.

 

(P.S. the R1 has orange windows as I glued in them in and realised that I would need to mask them for painting)

Edited March 22, 2017 by gz3xzf

[gz3xzf]

Hi

 

Now I have put my two locos aside because they are awaiting a new shed in the garden, it is a long story of consequences that I am not going into here; but it is required so that I can set up my spraying booth in the garage. Also my Maplin's 50W soldering station has given up the ghost I have moved onto some plastic builds.

 

The other day I purchased a couple of Parkside Dundas BR ventilated vans: -

 

So here is the first one built, I put it next to a Bachmann product of a similar van for comparision: -

 

I now need to purchase some paint, I did think about leaving the plastic colours, but decided that it does need painting. I also think that some metal wheels and a lump of lead are required to finish them off.

 

Then once the soldering station is fixed/replaced I have this pair to move onto: -

 

 

Hopefully Hornby/Bachmann will not be announcing a SR/BR L class as soon as I start building them!!

Maybe I should think about changing the name of the thread?

Edited October 2, 2023 by gz3xzf
Re-adding photos.

[gz3xzf]

Not done much in the last few weeks, the mowing/Formula 1 seasons have started and Swanage has now started daily running (since the "Strictly Bulleid" Gala at the beginning of the month) so I am spending more time there.

 

I completed the two BR 12T vans, painted them, they are now waiting for transfers and I have done some more work on the Dapol Sentinel that is being changed from Irish to early BR livery; no pictures on progress I am afraid.

 

Something to as an aside some pictures from the Swanage Gala: -

Standard 4 Tank 80104 masquerading as Bournemouth loco 80146.

 

34046 Braunton masquerading as 34052 Lord Dowding

 

34053 Sir Keith Park

 

34070 Manston

 

34053 again, but more importantly 34081 92 Squadron behind

 

Last of the five Bulleid's, 34092 City of Wells

 

 

Thanks for reading, promise some more modelling soon.

 

Edited October 2, 2023 by gz3xzf
Re-adding photos.

[ADEN]

Bryan

 

Have read your thread and enjoyed it especially the master class on soldering white metal.

You will have to paint the locos sometime stop putting it off, I have used both spray gun and cans and as long as you do not rush between coats you will have no problems.

 

It was good to see both you and John yesterday hope we can stay in touch more.

 

Andy

[gz3xzf]

OK, I have taken the step of renaming the thread so that I can cover anything I am building, Bryan the Snail was my nickname at Didcot Railway Centre (after the popular character in the Magic Roundabout) and it stuck for the twenty odd years I volunteered there.

 

Only a little update today, I have finished painting the two Parkside Dundas vans and put some transfers on. I used Phoenix Precision Paints for the main body colours, Halfords Matt Black for underframe and the transfers from the Old Time Workshop that as specifically produced for the PC07A vans. I first tried the transfers on the matt body surface but they didn't take, so I covered the area in some Precision  gloss pale varnish. First time painting rolling stock in a while and I think they are presentable: -

 

As you can see, some of the Precision Paints date back to my early days of modelling! They still seem to work OK!

 

 

I am now going to try and dust some weathering in what I hope will be the right places and give the whole thing a dusting with a matt varnish spray.

 

 

Edited October 2, 2023 by gz3xzf
Re-adding photos.

[ADEN]

Wagons looking great I was wondering if you were going to post anything.

Phoenix paints is local to me.,

[gz3xzf]

Wagons looking great I was wondering if you were going to post anything.

Phoenix paints is local to me.,

Thanks Aden, don't always get a chance to get to the modelling table, but it is raining in Dorset at the moment so gardening (I'm only a fair-weather gardener) is out.

I have just noticed that the early Precision Paints Company was in Cheltenham, someone was telling me the other day that Phoenix has now acquired Carr's (solder and flux people) as that company has been sold up.

 

Edit:

I have just found that the C&L Finescale website has all the relevant information.

Edited May 13, 2017 by gz3xzf

[gz3xzf]

OK, I've had my first go at weathering, I used only Humbrol Dark Earth powder, I dry brushed the body and mixed a water wash for the underframe. You may notice that I made the mistake of not doing the wheels and the coupling hooks. Finally I gave the wagon a dusting of matt varnish (as shown in the Humbrol videos on YouTube) to fix the dry brushed weathering: -

 

 

Also in the picture below is the Dapol Sentinel that I have changed from Irish liveried version to early BR as one of the ex-LMS locos. I used Fox Transfers BR emblem & numbers, used Precision signal red for the buffer beams and a coat of Precision Paints satin varnish.: -

 

Two things have been learnt, one is buy a pot of Humbrol Maskol to see if it is any better than the Precision Maskex that I used to cover the windows when varnishing, I couldn't get the damn stuff off! The second thing is that to be more confident using the varnish spray can, the first coat dried really mottled and I thought I was going to have to strip it and start again, the second coat has dried perfectly.

 

I have now purchased a selection of the other Humbrol powders to see what else can be done.

Edited October 2, 2023 by gz3xzf
Re-adding photos.