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The last two weeks have been interesting, I have managed to reduce my sons layout to components and half built a number of plastic kits; I'd forgotten how slow building plastic kits is if you try and get the parts painted as you build, the kits are, the Ratio loco servicing depot, Dapol village church (ex Airfix), the RM cover van body & yard office. Here are photos of the first two so far: -

20200626_143710.jpg.167e117b0eb11e32126e57ba20c93734.jpg20200626_143748.jpg.c68c14c36413ef9a4b0a87393b14ed65.jpg

I decided to paint the exterior of the church when finished.

My Sons layout went from this: -
20200607-WA0010.jpeg.8501da8b0859e96e458f49f75a24c8e5.jpeg

To this: -
20200617_114126.jpg.70abcb79057b7f671a5a45d13856af6e.jpg20200617_114135.jpg.8f9bdab481bdeed0676743c1e2ba347c.jpg

In much less time than it took me to put it together! :O:sad_mini::cry:

The layout had to go as it was taking up room, my son had stopped using it sometime back and it was all first radius curves/points.

 

That's all for now folks.

 

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  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

OK, today I have finally managed to get the DJH L Class out of storage and assess where I am with it. The loco has the main parts of the superstructure together with the chassis and wheels, I have taken the motor and gearbox out (for some reason): -

20200714_170529.jpg.5a834a1d8251e523c15c3f1e8ea1cd55.jpg

At the moment it seems quite well balanced with a spring on the bogie pivot and a plastikard box to represent the ashpan; I'll take some pictures on how I fitted the bogie.
On to further work, I thought I would start looking at the construction of the tender, looking at the instructions and the bits it seems a bit complicated, anyway I decided that I would build it separate from the frames so I started with the back and one side: -

20200714_170650.jpg.279e7226f519c098ab83b9e7c13f452a.jpg

Here they are with a Smart Models magnetic clamp holding them at right angles. I "tacked" the top and bottom of the joint (making sure the parts stayed at right angles) and then filled the corner with solder: -

20200714_170524.jpg.90066d992a2c07e21806f64c5c94d1b4.jpg

When soldering like this I solder half the joint, allow that section to cool before soldering the other half; if you run the soldering iron over the whole joint you will find that all the solder will become molten and the parts may move.

Then I fitted the top, front and coal slope, I used the other tank side to hold the top and front in the correct position before tacking; then as before complete the joint in parts: -

20200714_173440.jpg.a2d1b42df9549637c623421d995965bc.jpg

Here it is sitting on the frames, you do seem to need three hands to hold it togther, I used the magnetic clamp (above) and one of the small G clamps that I got from In-Excess.

 

That's all tonight, I'll see what the weather does tomorrow; fine and I will have to mow some grass! :cry:

Edited by gz3xzf
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Hi Bryan,

Just catching up with your Workbench, sorry to hear about your loss on enthusiasm, but it looks like you've got it back!

And thanks for your thoughts on the Poppys Loco Box

All the best, Dave.

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I have come to add the front and rear coal rails across the tank top and need to ask for a consensus of opinion about a couple of things. Firstly the rear coal rail fits into a slot created in the white-metal sides, I feel it is too far back as the top of the rail is in thin air, I have tried it forward of the slot and feel it looks a lot better in that position; so picture one shows it in the designed position, picture two propped in front of the slot: -

IMGP3471.JPG.68c7aa82d5ff73824b14eb12f7a4a5c5.JPGIMGP3472.JPG.cc54d808dd1c868bc96db154ed4260cf.JPG

 

The second issue I have is with the front coal rail, when fitted in position it only allows around 2mm (6 inches) for the coal to get to the shovel plate; picture three shows the front of the tender with coal rail in position and the tool box top in place, picture four shows the view down the slop the coal will roll to get to the shovel plate: -IMGP3473.JPG.ca650df8b2a0e493561e523514a04637.JPGIMGP3475.JPG.78b7159e717c957fb320ff4a1af237b2.JPG Now all things considered this doesn't matter as I guess this area will be full of coal and you would not be able to see it, but it did bother me that it isn't accurate.

 

So suggestions on a postcard please.

 

This also brings me to another question, so far when researching for this build I haven't found any photographs of the rear of this type of Wainwright tender. Sadly back in the day people took photos of the locomotive, it was just coincidence that there was a tender behind it! Does anyone have either a rear quarter photo of a L class or know if there any books with one in; I'm looking for detail of hand rails and draw gear, etc. It would also be nice if there are any pictures showing the top of the tender.

 

Thanks for reading

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While it may not directly help with the tender, @pete_mcfarlane built a DJH L some time back, and i've found his thread to be extremely handy as I plan for my own build.

 

Have also sent you a PM.

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7 hours ago, Jack P said:

While it may not directly help with the tender, @pete_mcfarlane built a DJH L some time back, and i've found his thread to be extremely handy as I plan for my own build.

 

Have also sent you a PM.

Thanks Jack, I have read the PM and as you say the drawing shows some of the tender structure, which is different to the model.

I also found Pete's DJH L Class build thread, I have had a read it today and found a couple of photos of a C tender at the Bluebell and the D at the NRM. They definitely show the coal rails aligning with the side tops, so I'll be modifying mine to suit, although the L tender appears to be larger capacity with higher side rails.
 

 

 

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Hello Bryan,

 

I built an L class a couple of years ago for my Father.

The supplied DJH tender falls short to say the very least!

 

In the end I bought a replacement Southeastern Finecast SECR tender and modified it to suit an L Class, using drawings supplied from the Railway Modeller.

 

Regards 

 

Chris

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20171213_160558.jpg

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Posted (edited)

Thanks for the info Chris, I will be persevering with the DJH tender for the time being, but I do have some modifications to correct what I have.

No modelling today, been to Swanage for a post lockdown re-fresher on the footplate of 31806, so I thought I would take a couple of pictures of the top of the tender showing the various posts that stick up above the coal area for anybody who may not have seen them.

Firstly the right-hand side of the tender (in this case the drivers side on the right-hand drive U class): -

20200717_123702.jpg.cde7abab6ff833dbc0789784602fb63b.jpg

Secondly the left-hand (firemans side):-

20200717_123721.jpg.e4c2eccd91251a26c769802c4d07812c.jpg

I have a third picture of the loco after we had arrived in platform 1 at Swanage showing the back of the tender: -

20200717_132542.jpg.23f8f5d79a82ead3d7ea2ce7da7056ab.jpg

 

I know this is Maunsell tender (it is actually the one from the N class 31874) and therefore a bit off-topic, but I hope they are interesting/useful.

 

PS: - I have realised that the wording on the pictures is a bit small, if you click on the picture it will show an enlarged version.

Edited by gz3xzf
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A bit more done on Sunday (taken all week to get a quiet moment to post), this is the state of the tender at the moment: -20200719-01_IMGP3478.JPG.8f98d4131665b7654288ef806f06b8de.JPG

I've soldered all the parts in place on one side and to each other. Next (as is my way of getting side tracked) I noticed the method of fitting the steps to the tender is to fix them to the solebar, I realised this might get in the way of my removable frame so I had a look at what I could do. The solution I came up with was to fit spacers to the back of the steps (I used offcuts and spare bits of white-metal), I soldered the spacers to the steps. So here is a photo of one side steps "resting" in place with the other two on the bench: -

20200719-02_IMGP3477.JPG.3c41885f9f03248d5b40df6e99d2a307.JPG

I decided that these would have to be superglued to the frames (rather than soldered) as I couldn't get the soldering iron in the tight space. Here is a second photo with the removable frame removed with the steps in place: -

20200721-01_IMGP3522.JPG.690090bc0f4cf5bd2d33f1890fe54217.JPG

(Hope that is clear enough, click on the photo to enlarge it.)

Once that interlude was finished I soldered the other tender superstructure side on, here are a couple of shots of the completed superstructure: -

20200721-02_IMGP3524.JPG.ed535c6d3eef3bf1678e089d47cf3d78.JPG20200721-03_IMGP3525.JPG.359842a69d8001fdb8b59101e2136995.JPG

You may notice in the first picture I have drilled some 0.4mm holes in the top edging of the tender and the base plate for the hand-rails; I've also supergluded the two sand boxes to the tender front. (Note: in these pictures the superstructure is still not fixed to the underframe.)

I then decided that I should try and get as much of the flux residue off the parts, I haven't tried washing any of the parts before and I haven't got any flashy sonic cleaners so I used an old toothbrush and plain water, as much as I could I scrubbed the parts. Here they are sitting in a tub on my patient drying device: -

20200721-04_IMGP3526.JPG.3b0e785d88dfdce591cc2291cd8b39b0.JPG

 

Hope that is interesting/useful.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ok, two weeks on and I have done some bits and pieces on the L Class, but first a delivery from Humbrol (Hornby!): -

IMGP3476.JPG.5f90e1c16059882b40f60d10d9968454.JPG

I decided I needed some new brushes and thought I would try out some of Humbrol's, so I bought one pack of each type of brush they make, so I could compare them. I also filled in some gaps in my paint & weathering powders selection. As some of my collection of Humbrol and Precision paints are now over 30 years old and I have only just started using acrylics, there are some gaps.

 

On to the L Class, I  fitted the handrails to the side and back of the tender: -

IMGP3527.JPG.5d7e9bf7f19936ec4b0d71fc637fea64.JPG

I have also been fitting handrails to the locomotive, checking the handrail knobs supplied with the kit they are all the same length, I realised that the handrail along the boiler would require knobs of 3 different lengths, here are the knobs supplied: -

IMGP3534-1.JPG.7da5afc43bfdd6ede4eaa29124a88afe.JPG

My solution to this is to fix the two knobs in the smokebox and then keeping the handrail wire straight glue the remaining knobs not fully home: -

IMGP3537.JPG.0f8777840f20de0462ad32dd04c9f518.JPG

So here is a general view of the boiler and the remainder of the superstructure, note I have also made and fitted the handrails to the running plate and cab: -

IMGP3531.JPG.0c14994cdd1fced7b73a2bc93f72c480.JPG Here is a view of the handrails on the back of the cab and front of the tender, I have glued (rather than soldered) the tender superstructure to the chassis; shame focusing has gone a bit wrong: -IMGP3528.JPG.0514850ac1eb5006c4bcfae49f4ba8c2.JPG

Then I moved on to some of the smaller parts on the loco, footsteps, sandbox lids, reverser, etc. I decided to solder the footsteps so that there was a bit more strength: -

IMGP3540.JPG.d6a0f8e3fdf5d1896ec50196328f3b58.JPG

The remainder of the parts are glued: -

IMGP3542.JPG.51654052dd1aa583e0453427da779063.JPG

That's the end of this installment, hope it is useful/interesting, thanks for reading.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi everybody

I have been looking through everything I have (and the internet) to see the details of how the controls from the cab connect to the steam reverser on the right hand side of the locomotive and am wondering if anybody has photos of the C class or 01 class at the Bluebell Railway or the D class at the NRM showing that side. I have found some on the internet, but not at the right angle, it really needs to be side on close-up.

Thanks in anticipation.

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On 05/08/2020 at 11:43, gz3xzf said:

That's the end of this installment, hope it is useful/interesting, thanks for reading.

 

Looks terrific Bryan,

Cheers, Dave.

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1 hour ago, DLT said:

 

Looks terrific Bryan,

Cheers, Dave.

Thanks Dave, that is very kind of you to say.

 

I have done some more work since that update, I noticed that the front buffers are around 2mm high (although the back is about right) so I have shaved some metal off the front mounting of the chassis; this meant that the front driving wheels made contact with the inside of the splashers which have also been modified. I thus noticed that the axle spacing on the chassis is too long, the front wheels do not line up with the centre line of the splasher. Sadly this will have to stay as it is, to compromise and move the chassis back would require undoing too much work.

I have fitted the clacks and water feed pipes and lamp brackets. I will take some more pictures and do a proper update later.

When I can get to the bottom of how the steam reverser controls and steam feed is arranged I will do some work on that.

Thanks for the likes etc.

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1 hour ago, gz3xzf said:

I thus noticed that the axle spacing on the chassis is too long, the front wheels do not line up with the centre line of the splasher.

 

Now you mention it, it looks lo me as if the SPACING is correct, the wheel spacing looks like it matches the splasher spacing, but the body is sitting to far back on the chassis.

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12 minutes ago, DLT said:

 

Now you mention it, it looks lo me as if the SPACING is correct, the wheel spacing looks like it matches the splasher spacing, but the body is sitting to far back on the chassis.

I'll have a measure and see, when I looked at it the other day I thought the back driver was in the right place, but I didn't measure anything.

I may still live with it depending on the amount of work required to get it moved. :O:sad_mini:

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Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, DLT said:

 

Now you mention it, it looks lo me as if the SPACING is correct, the wheel spacing looks like it matches the splasher spacing, but the body is sitting to far back on the chassis.

Dave, I have now measured the wheel spacing and position, you are correct. The chassis spacing is exactly 40mm (10ft) but the chassis is 2mm (6in) too far forward on the superstructure, the centre of the rear driver should be 16mm (4ft) from the loco buffer plank & it is 18mm.
Sadly I am going to have to live with it as there is too much to undo to get it to the right place, but I did buy two of these DJH kits so the second one will be modified to correct the error.

Edited by gz3xzf
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14 hours ago, gz3xzf said:

Hi everybody

I have been looking through everything I have (and the internet) to see the details of how the controls from the cab connect to the steam reverser on the right hand side of the locomotive and am wondering if anybody has photos of the C class or 01 class at the Bluebell Railway or the D class at the NRM showing that side. I have found some on the internet, but not at the right angle, it really needs to be side on close-up.

Thanks in anticipation.

Hi Bryan

 

If you click on my avatar and then take a look at the albums I’ve posted, there are dozens of shots of the D class at the NRM at York that I took when I visited there a few years ago. I’m not sure if it’s exactly what you’re looking for, but there are a couple of shots of the reversing cylinder itself, I hope there of use. 

 

Regards

Brian

Edited by BSW01
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8 hours ago, BSW01 said:

Hi Bryan

 

If you click on my avatar and then take a look at the albums I’ve posted, there are dozens of shots of the D class at the NRM at York that I took when I visited there a few years ago. I’m not sure if it’s exactly what you’re looking for, but there are a couple of shots of the reversing cylinder itself, I hope there of use. 

 

Regards

Brian

Thanks Brian, they are ideal, a couple of them showed exactly what I need. You also had a shot of the cab with the drivers control for the reverser, this has explained how it works.

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I’m glad they helped, I took them for the same reason that you wanted them for as I have the D class kit in my to build pile!

Edited by BSW01
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  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

Not done much in the workshop recently, sort of lost a bit of enthusiasm when I worked out the L class needs some surgery to put the wheels in the right place. I think I have now decided that I am going to have to "bite the bullet" and put it right.

On a lighter note, a bit of "retail therapy" has cheered me up, I found this on Flee-bay for a reasonable price (i.e. cheap); it was being sold by "TheDannyPenguin" who seems to be invoved with Derails. Anyway, very pleased with my purchase. :D: -20201002_150124.jpg.c8148b939d21e2762ddf5c1c6e60fcbc.jpg

So I have run it in on the rolling road using DC power, now I have fitted a DCC chip and thought I would have a go at a bit of video filming: -

 

Edited by gz3xzf
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