7mm King Street Goods

[Jintyman]

Hello CME the wagon was a Skill builder kit from Jim McGeown, it's a  GWR Loriot M  Diagram G14

Lowmac Machinery Wagon.

 

Site Link>>> http://www.jimmcgeown.com/Wagon%20Kit%20Pages/GWR%20Loriot%20M%20Lowmac.html 

 

 

Best

 

 

That's a very nice Loriot build Barnaby, and weathered nicely too.

Jim's kits are a pleasure to build, I need a few more of his myself.

 

Jinty

[Barnaby]

Thanks Jinty I think the loriot weathering is more down to the slightly blurred phone photo than skill on my part but I did try less is more when painting which has seemed to work quite well.

 

I want to do the Cl 20 but can't bring myself to mess up Sandy's great work.

 

I'll have some practice on a few wagons using the less is more approach again before I contemplate the Cl 20. 

Maybe a dash of dust all over with a smear of oily grime on the axle box will do it.

 

Practice, practice, practice.

 

Best

[Simond]

yes, and "gently, gently"

 

a little bit today, perhaps some more tomorrow...  But, of course, you'll spend a lot of time cleaning brushes!

 

best

Simon

[CME and Bottlewasher]

yes, and "gently, gently"

 

a little bit today, perhaps some more tomorrow...  But, of course, you'll spend a lot of time cleaning brushes!

 

best

Simon

Hi Simon,

 

I did that with two VB 16T Minerals, 3-4 months of subtle and weird.....not sure if theyre truly finished yet, maybe an airbrush waft in another 6 months?

 

ATVB

 

CME

[CME and Bottlewasher]

Hello CME the wagon was a Skill builder kit from Jim McGeown, it's a  GWR Loriot M  Diagram G14Lowmac Machinery Wagon.

 

Site Link>>> http://www.jimmcgeown.com/Wagon%20Kit%20Pages/GWR%20Loriot%20M%20Lowmac.html 

 

 

Best

Thanks,

 

Much obliged, very nice work on your part....Im wondering if I could do with a couple, not sure how long they ran for....time for some more research.

 

Kind regards,

 

CME

[railwayrod]

Just caught up again with your thread. The class 20 looks superb. I hope my Heljan version looks as good when I get it back from Jintyman.

 

Rod

[Barnaby]

I'm sure it will be Rod, mine was built by Sandy and a damn fine job he has made of it too. 

It's chirping away merrily and has trundled all over the old layout.   While it is tempting to keep play shunting but I must get my new track laid and dismantle the old layout to make space for the new one.

 

I think I'm going to have to dig the shed out of the snow tomorrow.

 

 

 

bETS

 

. .

[bgman]

Thanks,

Much obliged, very nice work on your part....Im wondering if I could do with a couple, not sure how long they ran for....time for some more research.

Kind regards,

CME

Taken from Jims download instruction sheet

 

The Loriot M was built by the GWR between 1925 and 1927 to diagram G14. They carried running numbers 42197-42201 and ran in service well into BR days.

 

Hope this is of some use CME.

 

Grahame

Edited March 3, 2018 by bgman

[Barnaby]

I needed some "bits & pieces" [paint for weathering, oil & grease] for my modelling so I called up Peter's Spares.

They had everything I needed and wot's more I got them all by return post.

They are well worth a look as they have huge stock and many interesting items.  Their web page is a well constructed, informative and easy to use one and I recommend them highly.

I have used them frequently because of their reliability.

 

Well done Peter's Spares, go have a look>>> http://www.petersspares.com/

 

Best

Edited March 11, 2018 by Barnaby

[Barnaby]

The door creaks open on the shed, helloo0o0o0o0 I'm back on the model scene again.

 

For the new layout progress has ground to a halt mainly due to plenty real life get-in-the-way things but all now sorted.

Reading Mike's Wallows posts I noticed he is using S&W couplings mee too as I had dug out my trial pack of 8 that I had and started to investigate their fitting.

 

 

My reasons are:::

it is easy to fit them without too much wagon hacking and not much fettling of the coupling components..

the hook will fit under and level with the sole bar.

I will fit 1 hook at 1 end of wagons with just the loop on the other.

Don't like the bar across the buffers so wont be doing that but intend to insert the loop directly into the sole bar, I'm also thinking of making the loop smaller and in the shape of a paddle.

 

Also because I hope to have gentle curves and hooks only on 1 end I will fit them straight or 5⁰ offset at the most as there will be no need to avoid the sword fencing you get if there are hooks on either end of a wagon.

The first wagons to get tried are to be a couple of CK's Minerva GW's.  I will of course have a initial practice on an old chassis.

I had wanted to just have loops on each end of the locos but for run round purposes I may need to have at least 1 hook fitted, probably the rear.

 

Well that's my plan anyway.

Edited July 28, 2018 by Barnaby

[81A Oldoak]

The door creaks open on the shed, helloo0o0o0o0 I'm back on the model scene again.

 

For the new layout progress has ground to a halt mainly due to plenty real life get-in-the-way things but all now sorted.

Reading Mike's Wallows posts I noticed he is using S&W couplings mee too as I had dug out my trial pack of 8 that I had and started to investigate their fitting.

 

My reasons are:::

it is easy to fit them without too much wagon hacking and not much fettling of the coupling components..

the hook will fit under and level with the sole bar.

I will fit 1 hook at 1 end of wagons with just the loop on the other.

Don't like the bar across the buffers so wont be doing that but intend to insert the loop directly into the sole bar, I'm also thinking of making the loop smaller and in the shape of a paddle.

 

Also because I hope to have gentle curves and hooks only on 1 end I will fit them straight or 5⁰ offset at the most as there will be no need to avoid the sword fencing you get if there are hooks on either end of a wagon.

The first wagons to get tried are to be a couple of CK's Minerva GW's.  I will of course have a initial practice on an old chassis.

I had wanted to just have loops on each end of the locos but for run round purposes I may need to have at least 1 hook fitted, probably the rear.

 

Well that's my plan anyway.

I look forward to seeing the results. I have experimented with Lincs, but so far with no success. I used S&W in 4mm scale and they worked well. Alex Jacksons would be nice, but they are a non-starter until someone can produce a ready-made hook. Dinghams are too  prone to damage. I have seen some nice adaptions of narrow 4mm scale tension-lock couplings. 

[CME and Bottlewasher]

I'm looking forward to seeing how you get on too, good to see you modelling and writing again. S&W's are a reliable coupling.

 

Like Chris, I've trialled most types, 'modern image' holds certain challenges though. For now, I'm using mini TLs, for remote and hand uncoupling.

 

I concur with Chris' recent comments on the matter, in MRJ (congratulations Chris, super article BTW).

 

Atvb,

 

CME

[davefromacrossthepond]

Barnaby,

 

Looking forward to hearing your opinion of S&W.  I am about 70 percent decided on going that route, but still not sure.  Living over here, I don't get the opportunity to see things in action and I can only learn so much from youtube videos.  Good luck!

Dave

[Barnaby]

Hello Dave.

 

Here's a good link based about GWR but it applies to all stock. :::> http://www.gwr.org.uk/procouplings.html

 

I have found it very good for explaining the operation and installation of the S&W couplings.

 

Best

Edited July 28, 2018 by Barnaby

[wessy]

I look forward to seeing the results. I have experimented with Lincs, but so far with no success. I used S&W in 4mm scale and they worked well. Alex Jacksons would be nice, but they are a non-starter until someone can produce a ready-made hook. Dinghams are too  prone to damage. I have seen some nice adaptions of narrow 4mm scale tension-lock couplings. 

 

Chris,

As I am about to try out the Lincs coupling system, could you say why you have found them unsuccessful? I have some concern about the lack of remote uncoupling - is that an issue for you?

[81A Oldoak]

Chris,

As I am about to try out the Lincs coupling system, could you say why you have found them unsuccessful? I have some concern about the lack of remote uncoupling - is that an issue for you?

 

Tim,

They are quite fiddly to make, but the main problem was locomotives. The instructions state that it is possible to use a fixed Lincs coupling on locomotives, which substantially simplifies installation. However, I have not been able to get the fixed coupling to couple with the pair of wagons I have converted. I would like to make Lincs work because I can keep the manual three-link couplings in place and have dual-fitted rolling stock. Perhaps I need to be more patient, but life is too busy and short. As I have written elsewhere, there is the model railway equivalent of a Nobel Prize waiting for the person who invents an economical, unobtrusive automatic coupling and uncoupling system.

 

Regards,

 

CK

[wessy]

Tim,

They are quite fiddly to make, but the main problem was locomotives. The instructions state that it is possible to use a fixed Lincs coupling on locomotives, which substantially simplifies installation. However, I have not been able to get the fixed coupling to couple with the pair of wagons I have converted. I would like to make Lincs work because I can keep the manual three-link couplings in place and have dual-fitted rolling stock. Perhaps I need to be more patient, but life is too busy and short. As I have written elsewhere, there is the model railway equivalent of a Nobel Prize waiting for the person who invents an economical, unobtrusive automatic coupling and uncoupling system.

 

Regards,

 

CK

 

Chris,

Thank you. I too am attracted by the ability to retain 3-links while being able to keep the hand of God and his uncoupling pole away. I will have a go with them, and if I find a solution to the fixed coupling problem, I will post something on here.

[Simond]

I have mixed feelings about AJ couplings or “b.... harpoons” as they are occasionally known. When they work, they are excellent and most unobtrusive. They are cheap, too.

 

Unfortunately, they are prone to malfunction if not exactly aligned, are fragile,need maintenance and most annoyingly can impale themselves in the coupling links of an adjacent vehicle which then requires several hands of God and pliers to disentangle.

 

Best

Simon

[CME and Bottlewasher]

Not good for 7mm FS (sic) either....Simon

Edited July 30, 2018 by CME and Bottlewasher

[Barnaby]

I like the idea of using track pins [see Mikkel Kjartan on here] instead of the wire given to hold the hook in place so I got 2 types one a wee bit longer than the other, from my local shop The Footplate in Kiddy.

I hope to have a trial bash tomorrow as my wife is out for the day Yeah, oops my little piranha fish, did you just read that.  It will mean opening up the plate holes a little but the pins should be easier to install and less prone to bending.

I want to use the shirt button magnets that I have instead of the flat plate magnets supplied again being easier to install but they are neodymium and powerful for their size. 

 

Best

[Barnaby]

Tried out various track pins and some very small brass pins.

 

 

Clockwise from the 9 position these were too thin and bent easily.

At the 12 position these were shorter but a little thicker and worked ok.

At the 3 position, the brass pins were just too thick.

 

I did find it a bit of a fiddle trying to level the pin heads to get the hook plate to lay horizontal but I think I should be able to over come this by using an offcut of brass under the plate of a suitable thickness to give the right amount of movement of the hook-plate then press each side down level then remove the spacer.

 

Decision is either to use the pins at 12 or RTFM and follow the instruction and install a staple style wire and bend over the ends to retain the plate, not forgetting to use the spacer under the plate and fold the wire down onto it.

 

As Marc S says on Mikes post the lead weights are a little heavy and the action was a bit bang bang as I am using neodymium magnets which are powerful.

Probably use a weaker magnet and a bit less weight to smooth out the hook working.

 

So not all time wasted today as I now have a way to follow but I might get some straight brass wire instead of the rolled wire supplied..

Edited July 31, 2018 by Barnaby

[bgman]

Very useful info above, may I ask which make of pins you are possibly going to use please ?

 

I'm not quite at your stage with couplings but feel I may well opt for the same eventually and it is always good to see this type of information being trialed, thank you.

 

Grahame

[Barnaby]

Looking through my metal stock I found a pack of 1.0mm brass, plenty enough for the hoops.

 

I had ordered some more Hooks, Mounting plates and some coupling loops all arrived this morning.
 Big thumbs up  to Wizard Models for the speedy delivery.

 

Made me up a wire bending jig for the hoops and the coupling plate tippler.  Very basic just some 2.0mm flat brass with a couple of holes one for each size of wire bend measured from an edge.

Then it's just a case of put one right angle bend in push that through the hole and bend it down at the corresponding edge, one goal post made. Also made a soldering up jig from a mix of ice-lolly and coffee sticks I knew they would come in handy some time.  Now to think of some thing to use the remaining 200+ on.

[Barnaby]

Made me up some hoops using the jiggy things I made.   Made up a complete coupling to test all jigs worked and would repeat the build.

 

 

 

Best

 

[CME and Bottlewasher]

Nice work but I fear for your dining table!