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Barnaby

7mm King Street Goods

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Hello Dave thank you for your comments.

 

My replies:-

1/  I have a very fast Fibre optic BB @ 70mb/s download and 18mb/s upload.

2/  their Ring app wifi test show I have good acceptable connection.  Their technical people suggested several set up option none of which improved the delays I mentioned above.

 

I run 2 x PC's 1 x laptop 2 x I phones the British gas Hive system all of which run faultlessly together, my main pc has a demanding Graphics card and does a fair bit of downloading and sending of data but all are online.  Even so my first test was to kill all my kit save for the Ring system which still suffered from lag.

My comments stand as written and are meant to make people aware it may not be their fault if they suffer similar issues.

 

My Ring device was the Video doorbell type 1, there are more elaborate ones that may perform better which Ring wanted to authorise a free unit to test and if successful they would consider a reduced price for me to keep it because of the difficulties experienced. 

 

Best

 

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Hi Mark,

 

You wouldn't have had all this trouble with a long piece of string. smile.gif

 

Have you considered a pressure-sensitive door mat?

 

 https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pressure-Alarm-Detect-Intruders-Burglars/dp/B06XQLYNM3/

 

A twin-wire flex down the garden, a bell and 12v off the layout. No running costs. What's to go wrong?

 

cheers,

 

Martin.

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Hi Barnaby

 

I also have the Ring device with no problems at all. I even spoke to a delivery guy from Hong Kong without any lag in the system! (Virg!n media)

Sorry you have had problems with your set up but I guess it's not suited to every internet installation?!

 

Regards, Deano.

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Cheers Martin and Deano.

 

Martin I have gone/going for the more simpler approach by dropping the video bit and just using a Honeywell 2- bell system on wifi with their extender chime unit. One bell in my hall and one bell in the shed.

Deano yes I agree the product concept is great, that's what attracted me to it but it's just that even with their techy help I couldn't make it work with out the lag.  I decided to drop it and go for the simpler Honeywell option.

 

Regards

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Barnaby,

I can't help but see the irony here (is that the right word?)  You decided on the "lower high tech" Honeywell system to communicate with your shed which houses a layout that uses a "lower high tech" turnout actuating system (the Blue Point).   

Dave

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Cheers Dave yes it is a bit ironic as you point out.

In fact I dropped my Lenz LH 100 and Command station LZV 100 for the the new "ACE" system from Sig-na Trak because I decided it was easier to understand and operate, and it is.  :P

Best

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……...continuing on from my last post but expanding on it a little.

I had been going to use a variety of the Megapoints pcb's to control servos and a route authorisation with show leds to set all the points correctly.

However along with the Lenz stuff I stopped installing it all, well actually I had only played about with it in testing so all of it is unused really.

So if anybody is interested in any of it let me know, all of it is working and is now packed away in its original boxes.

 

Why have I done this well it was because having retired some 10 years ago I want to keep my "little grey cells" as active as possible so I leave all the loco sounds and driving to DCC [ACE trains]. while I work out how the point control and route planning should be.

 

Just been tweaking my plan after a dry run with the track placed down on the BB and trial shunted bits of card for the wagons to all parts of the old plan.

 

1853147591_V2BSPECIALEMANONSIDINGS12ftchangeoverH-SpointtoYpointSECTIONScolourchangescrap.jpg.41e5839fdad581cd3ec30d595e09e5b1.jpg

 

 

1222335678_V2D(SPECIAL)EMANONSIDINGS12ftchangeoverH-SpointtoYpointSECTIONScolourchangescrap.jpg.810ee75c9c15f6e663bac5bea35bff26.jpg

I need to check out my train lengths etc as I may not need the fold down ext at the fiddle yard end then I just need to decide which one.

 

:help:

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My initial impression is that plan 1 (the top one) looks neater as it is less crowded and less linear than plan 2.

 

I'm not entirely sure about the loco spur in plan 1. Could you run it with a facing RH point from the exit to the fiddle yard, just to the right of the 'L' in the middle or put it where it is shown in plan 2, i.e. track 'F1'?

 

Stephen

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I understand the urge to add facilities, in the hope of adding operational potential and interest, but it simply looks too “busy” to me.  I’d lose one of the sidings for sure.

 

atb

Simon

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Hi Barnaby, I agree with  both Stephen / Warspite and Simon, Plan 1, the top one works best for me because of the Fuelling Spur, (similar to my SMS) but a little busy in the lower left quarter so I think I might have a look at removing Road ''C''.

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Hi Barnaby

 

I've tried a couple of ideas based on your plan 1. The first takes out one of the sidings as Simon and Andrew both suggested. I've tried to space things out a bit without reducing operational interest too much .

 

300573180_Barnaby02.jpg.8b21f7f52a1dc59d9e3d8709d8c29344.jpg

 

I can't remember whether you discounted a run-round loop but the second plan includes this. The 'loco headshunt' allows for anything up to a class 47. I've moved the goods shed to the front to allow more room for the run-round.

 

958722593_Barnaby03(run-round).jpg.5f9c5c04d02e653678659f00a4d433bd.jpg

 

Not sure if the run-round works but it provides another option.

 

Stephen

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Yes Gents I do agree.

While I was running some schedules I found that B & C were doing much the same thing and have decided to lose C.

Stephen I did have a run-round loop in but thought it made it all a little to squashed up and limiting on the wagon numbers.  I went for the pull in by a loco, uncouple and pull forward then a yard loco to distribute the wagons.

 

Many thanks.

 

 

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If you don’t mind me saying I would suggest the upper plan is more balanced for total train lengths and shunting operations. The headshunt(s) match in length the fiddle and arrival road, which is pretty much what you want on minimal space layouts such as this where you can’t draw trains out onto the main line/into the fiddle. On the lower plan it’s too short IMHO. You can also place the train engine on the other spur, or perhaps use the rear one for this and the front one for shunting. Makes it easier if you use 3-links this way. In connection with this I would ditch the rear loco spur off the fiddle. I have always found that the less ‘fiddling around’ with the fiddle yard section the better unless absolutely necessary. Often trying to make a plan ‘interesting’ means they are too complicated and actually get frustrating to use, I’ve been there done that.

 

Izzy

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Posted (edited)

Yes Izzy I had adjusted things for the train lengths and had been more critical with that on the top plan.

I have altered the top 1st plan above by removing one of the sidings and show it below.  Still got some thinking to do ref your comments and others.

 

 

1647679791_V2BSPECIAL3EMANONSIDINGS12ftchangeoverH-SpointtoYpointSECTIONS.jpg.a5d872c870c0242dedc60b902537a7e0.jpg

I'll keep the single piece of track from the Fiddle yard to run out various locos as it fills up the space and allows for some simple activity.

It does look like I can now see the woods not just trees, It's beginning to look & feel balanced.

Edited by Barnaby
PLAN TWEAKING
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Just been out to the workshop to place the track as per the plan above.  It certainly looks to be less squashed and cluttered which is very pleasing.

 

67610332_10216340578279730_1857227722321821696_n.jpg.0f25b9d7db2e6e54e5359e39a26d0174.jpg For orientation of the plan the dusting brush shows where the Fiddle yard is.

 

Now to decide if I need hot or cold >>>

67235766_10216340580319781_1430638586796965888_n.jpg.ecc467d93e91428ce743620766ab8795.jpg

 

I'll probably have a play later today with some mock up buildings to see how it all is looking.

 

Best

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Posted (edited)

Pondering...……. I'm busy laying my track and fitting dropper leads to all pieces of track work.   That being the case I will be missing out all the rail joiners as I won't need them for electrical feeds and the track bases will hold the track rails in place with a couple of well placed track pins.  Once the ballast has been laid and glued I can't see anything moving and secondly it sure makes for speedier track laying too.

 

I had been trying to add the rail joiners but found them a right pain and deadly at slipping and stabbing my fingers.  What's more even after adding them I would need to solder them up so I decided to give the joiners a miss.

I will however add the dummy rail joiners for correct gapping and positioning and looking the dogs do-dars.

 

Best

Edited by Barnaby
deleted the word "THE"
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Barnaby

 

C&L plastic joiners are absolutely Towser’s naughty bits, and entirely appropriate for a layout where all the rails are fitted with droppers.  They are shaped like an elongated “H” with moulded bolt detail; it is necessary to file the rail ends to ensure no burrs or they won’t go on properly.

 

Recommended.  Usual disclaimers of course.

 

atb

Simon

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To true Simon I have several packets of them plus some by Exactoscale  so my plank should be well covered.    It was something I hadn't really thought about until I jabbed a metal joiner into my fingers about 4 times in succession.  I was thinking of soldering a 1mm piece of brass rod onto the rail web across a join to make electrical continuity but went down the route of soldering droppers to each piece  of track.

 

Regards

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I think you took a good decision there!

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Posted (edited)

Visited the Telford show today Saturday it felt smaller than usual but less rammed with people so it was easier to visit places I wanted to go.

 

Menerva Models to purchase a Gunpowder wagon,

Tower Models for the best price on a Dapol Esso fuel tanker wagon.

 

That was it for the purchases other stuff I wanted mainly on the tool side were not available.

Something I did like were the DCC concepts point/signal levers but at £17 ea and me wanting at least 6 they may be a bit too expensive but they do look the business.  Digi-Trains had some so I was able to access them.  They come with plug in cables etc as they are meant to engage through a mimic track display board.

 

Best

 

Edited by Barnaby
spelling
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...……. guess where I am today.

 

under the BB.jpg

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Back on the topside and I have completed all the point work laying which occurs on the middle board #2 of the 3 x 4ft BBs.  I used my hot glue gun with clear glue to hold all the point work in position quick and easy, when the ballasting is done it will make everything secure.

BB #1 has the goods yard sidings on it while the fiddle yard takes the back 1/3 of BB #3 with a scenic split to the front for a small oil/cement yard or similar. 

All wire droppers and blue point TOU positions sited.   BOARD 1 IS TO THE TOP OF THE PICTURE

Still got to decide if I position the mechanical push/pull knobs on the front of the BB to align with each point or group them together and route the snakes away to each point.

 

1870922177_newlayoutpointworkdone.jpg.f35faad1f641d54717da29eba598eaab.jpg

I might start to lay some ballast to this middle BB to keep the enthusiasm up and even have a little trial run through the point work. :D

 

Best

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…… end of day play.

396375648_overviewoftrack.jpg.5016432017fc1a2151af788a433800bf.jpg

 

1833434742_closeupballast.jpg.6df7368e1d1189bdc839cc2851d55acb.jpg

 

 

 

Mmmnnnnn that medium may be too coarse it is only loose brushed just now but I do have some fine to try tomorrow.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Now that I have most of the dropper feeds installed for the 2nd board I spent some time focussing my mind on how I was to wire all 3 boards up.

 

My scribbles on some scrap paper.

825033744_boardswireup.jpg.64e7b30d8b6cf649e6670280481586b5.jpg

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6 hours ago, Barnaby said:

Now that I have most of the dropper feeds installed for the 2nd board I spent some time focussing my mind on how I was to wire all 3 boards up.

 

My scribbles on some scrap paper.

https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/uploads/monthly_2019_09/825033744_boardswireup.jpg.64e7b30d8b6cf649e6670280481586b5.jpg

That looks very Ricey. 

 

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