Bending proprietary turnouts

[DCB]

Pictures as threatened.

 

Cuts in webbing at 1 end. The complete webbing removal at the top are for the inside of the curve and the single cuts are the outside. The other end of the crossing is a mirror image of this:

20151110_175904.jpg

 

Pinned to a plank to help it hold it's shape. The straight side gives a good mark to line it up with:

20151110_180307.jpg

 

This shows how 'smooth' the result is:

20151110_180326.jpg

 

And finally how well it helps the curved point work fit in. This is a mixture of curved and medium radius points as per the drawing further up this page:

20151110_181206.jpg

 

The plank is now upside down on a radiator, whether this will help it shape only time will tell.

 

Maybe, but if you look closely at the pictures you can see the effect of the curve has gone further into the crossing than just stopping at the frogs. So even though the cuts are just at the outer ends it's allowing flex further into crossing too.

 

I think you would end up with a kink where the flexi joined if you trimmed back to the frog and used flexi track. In any case I would use set track rail not flexi.  My indoors layout has steel track and I do like using steel set track for tight curves and for straights which need to be straight because the rail seems to be more rigid and less flexible and less prone to straightening itself out and kinking.  I assume modern Nickel Silver code 100 set track rail is less flexible than flexi track rail but I admit I have not tested this.

Edited September 3, 2017 by DavidCBroad

[Satan's Goldfish]

I think (but don't quote me) that rail profile is the same whether set track or flexi. The difference is in the webbing of the sleepers it's fixed to. Set track has a fixed mould to help it hold it's shape where as flexi has gaps between alternating sides of the sleepers to help it bend.

[sub39h]

Thanks for the reply.

 

Roughly what radius were you able to bend the crossing to? Would you be able to take a photo with the curved point or the curved leg of a straight point overlaid so I can compare it to the curves on those?

Edited November 11, 2015 by sub39h

[Satan's Goldfish]

Thanks for the reply.

Roughly what radius were you able to bend the crossing to? Would you be able to take a photo with the curved point or the curved leg of a straight point overlaid so I can compare it to the curves on those?

Not a problem, with a bit of effort I've got a curved point sitting on the drawing pins. The angle looks to be between the 2x curved point radius, I'd guestimate 4ft radius. It will go tighter, especially if the check rails were cut out and replaced, but I'm happy with the way it is. It needed to curve at least as far as the medium radius point that's due to be beside it, I.e. the outer curve parts needed to create a straight line along the crossing length.

 

[Satan's Goldfish]

That'll work nicely

 

 

So, as long as you don't mind both legs being curved, this could be a double junction improvement in some cases.

[Memphis32]

I think you mean Grantham. P'boro North is all handmade points...

[LNER4479]

See Post #11 on previous page!

[bescotbeast]

Modified Peco  OO code 100  curved point   The point blade on the sharper curve had to be modified and now slides in and out on the pivot end fishplate instead of simply pivoting.

It works fine with old H/D and Triang locos fitted with all flanged Romford wheels with minimal sideplay. and made a run round loop at the junction possible.

thanks for the pictures, I'm looking at trying to bend one of these points to extend my fiddle yard.

[bescotbeast]

This is what I achieved with a Peco Curved point, thanks to this thread.

point bending by Simon Barnes, on Flickr

[BG John]

Has anyone tried curving them the other way, to create an unequal Y? I think I've got a situation where a Peco small radius Y curves far too much, but a small radius left is too straight. I want to bend the small electrofrog left a bit to the right, if you see what I mean! This is for an O-16.5 micro layout using secondhand OO code 100 track, and the biggest loco will be an 0-6-0. I may need to do a bit of subtle bending on other turnouts too, in either direction, when I start track laying.

[BG John]

To answer my own question, as no one else has, it looks like the answer is yes. I cut the webbing as shown in the first photo, and bent it to fit the plan I'd drawn in SCARM (using plain track for the required curves). There's enough space between the notch in the stock rail and the blade, to curve it this much and the blades to still fit. I'll do any final tweaking when I lay the track, but it seems to be a success.

 

 

 

[LNER4479]

I missed your earlier post of 2nd Sept but - yes - I have modified Peco points as you suggest to create unequal Ys.

 

The long Y and medium radius points are very similar in this respect; either type can be used as the starting point to get the desired alignment. It can be a very effective look, having the slight curve as part of a mainline alignment and the sharper curve as part of a crossover or siding / loop connection.

[BG John]

Not very clear photos, but the loco is standing on my unequal Y bent from a small radius left. It gave me just the curve I needed to fit the track into a limited space. I must start a topic on this layout some time.

 

[Satan's Goldfish]

That's a lot of yellow Lego bricks...

[sp1]

That's a lot of yellow Lego bricks...

I wonder if they do Lego bricks in light & dark stone.....

[Satan's Goldfish]

I wonder if they do Lego bricks in light & dark stone.....

I think it would need some Matt varnish...

 

[BG John]

That's a lot of yellow Lego bricks...

I've got lots more . They're fake Lego actually. I bought a load on eBay recently. They're great for mock up buildings, but best photographed in black & white, where they actually look quite good!

[sp1]

I've got lots more . They're fake Lego actually. I bought a load on eBay recently. They're great for mock up buildings, but best photographed in black & white, where they actually look quite good!

This gives me a great idea for my grandsons train set that he’s having for Christmas- I have to build a baseboard, lay track etc: this would be a great way to involve him in building bridges, buildings, tunnels etc!

[BG John]

This gives me a great idea for my grandsons train set that he’s having for Christmas- I have to build a baseboard, lay track etc: this would be a great way to involve him in building bridges, buildings, tunnels etc!

 

I know we're going off topic, but then when did any RMweb topic manage not to? Here are a couple of overall views of the layout, so you can see what I've done. They really are mock ups though, and will be replaced by proper buildings. I need the bricks for mock ups for other layouts! Watch out that you allow enough clearance for the buildings, as the walls are thick and inflexible. It might be worth building some yourself while constructing the layout, to make sure they fit.

 

 

This is all I need for this layout, but I've thought of taping on printed overlays when I want a mock up to have a more realistic appearance.

[Satan's Goldfish]

LGB now do wagons that are Lego compatible.....

 

Very effective medium for mock ups there, good idea.

[Butler Henderson]

I straightened the toe of a Curved LH but found it was still too far to the left so I ended up cutting off the frog end and using that to replace the frog end of a Curved RH to make a Curved reverse S !

 

Edited October 23, 2017 by Butler Henderson

[H2O]

I'm fairly sure there was a Railway Modeller artical way back written by CJF's son (Nick?) where he cut away some ties to bend Peco points on a Minories style layout. Presumably ok by the Peco management at the time so as close to an authorised mod as you can get? Note sure exactly what version or types of Peco pointwork were chopped.

[Satan's Goldfish]

I need advice!

 

Had to have a small layout redesign due to space/Mrs SG patience limitations. I have a situation where I either need to tightly curve a Peco streamline curved point down to match roughly setrack R3, or just use a setrack curved point instead.

 

This thread shows I should be able to reduce a streamline but may need a couple of mods to the rail pivots. Reliability is key, will very well laid setrack with suitable approach curves be reliable enough instead? (it's a slightly cheaper option for the components and less time carrying out modifications I might get wrong)

 

Thanks all

[DCB]

I need advice!

 

Had to have a small layout redesign due to space/Mrs SG patience limitations. I have a situation where I either need to tightly curve a Peco streamline curved point down to match roughly setrack R3, or just use a setrack curved point instead.

 

This thread shows I should be able to reduce a streamline but may need a couple of mods to the rail pivots. Reliability is key, will very well laid setrack with suitable approach curves be reliable enough instead? (it's a slightly cheaper option for the components and less time carrying out modifications I might get wrong)

 

Thanks all

 

See my post #8  The "set track" curved point comes down to around 16" radius and the angle at the frog is wider,   The modified point is less sharp at the point blades than the set track but the set track point itself can be carved down to a much smaller unit, though the set track has a long dead frog and live frogging it will be a lot of work.  

The modified curved point I did needed a mod to the "Inner" point blade as it became too long if the tie bar was to remain parallel to the sleepers so my fix was a standard fishplate so the blade slides in and out instead of pivoting.  It has worked faultlessly for quite a while now and allowed a run round loop at the junction which no standard off the shelf point work would allow.