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10 minutes ago, Daddyman said:

Never elongate any holes in a HL gearbox! (Or in anything else for that matter.) 

 

It's hard to see what's going on from your description, but it sounds like you might have the gears the wrong way around on the axles. Are they the same way round as shown here? https://b7a49983-e761-43c1-ba2b-2bfa1bd083c3.filesusr.com/ugd/27e471_1532540cfc82469786092557474ed514.pdf The problems you describe should never happen with a HL gearbox - they fall together. 

 

You might get a faster answer direct from Chris at: [email protected] 

 

Yes I assembled it as the instructions show. I've assembled 3 HL 'boxes before and never had this problem.

 

173487812_IMG_20210811_1252231942.jpg.599e04b9f4c3eb4d5fcc44abb8907d48.jpg

As you can see there is a gap between the larger of the stage 1 gears and the brass boss of the final drive gear but the teeth don't mesh and for them to do so would require them to be moved closer together by a distance bigger than that gap. If I take the gears out and turn the stage 1 gears round so the larger gear is outside the final drive gear, they can be moved close enough together that they mesh properly.

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17 minutes ago, MJI said:

Are they the correct gears?

 

That's what I was wondering - with so many combinations and the pressure at present it would be very easy to get the odd one wrong. Which may be doing Chris a huge disservice saying so!

Edited by Bucoops
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Happened to me last year. I popped the gears in an envelope with a note explaining the issue back to HL. Correct gears sent back to me quickly. 

 

Good service, as Bucoops says with a lot of variety it is easy to make a mistake. 

 

 

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Thanks everyone. I'll get in touch with Chris. I had thought they might be the wrong gears but wanted to check I hadn't made a stupid mistake when assembling the gearbox. I knew this was very unusual as the high level boxes I've had in the past have been superb and the customer service when I required replacement parts where the original had pinged off was equally excellent.

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3 hours ago, JamieR4489 said:

As you can see there is a gap

I see no gap in the teeth.  Did you open out the 2mm shaft hole so its a tight fit? 

 

You are also missing the washer on the 2mm shaft which should help centre the worm and the 1st drive gear.  Its visible in the photo

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Just now, Brassey said:

I see no gap in the teeth.  Did you open out the 2mm shaft hole so its a tight fit? 

 

You are also missing the washer on the 2mm shaft which should help centre the worm and the 1st drive gear.  Its visible in the photo

Sorry, I wasn't clear. The gap is between the bigger of the stage 1 gears (the one that meshes with the worm) and the thinner bit of the brass boss on the final axle. My point was that if the final drive and stage 1 gears were close enough together the gear that meshes with the worm would be in contact with that brass section and preventing the final drive gear and the smaller of the stage 1 gears from meshing properly. I imagine the problem is that the final drive gear is from a different ratio gearbox and so is slightly too small in diameter.

 

Yes I opened out the holes on the etch and in the gears for the 2mm shaft. I was aware that the washer was missing. I leave them out until I'm happy with the gearbox incase I have to dismantle it and risk losing the washers.

 

Jamie

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A quick question for Chris - which may be of interest to other modellers - do you know if the 48DS chassis will fit into the Hornby body?  I'm getting one from a clubmate who has used the Hornby chassis to power something else and the opportunity of availing myself of one of these little beauties relatively inexpensively (for P4) is very tempting!

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On 11/08/2021 at 11:52, JamieR4489 said:

However, I have, unfortunately, got a problem with the gearbox in that the final drive and stage 1 gears don't mesh. I can spin one without the other turning. The gearbox is a 60:1 roadrunner. It doesn't look like a case of simply elongating the holes in the gearbox a bit as I can see that to get the gears to mesh properly, the larger gear on the first stage will touch the boss of the final drive gear, preventing them from being close enough together.

 

I agree with Daddyman's suggestion, but if you can't sort this out, can you post a photo?

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2 hours ago, DLT said:

 

I agree with Daddyman's suggestion, but if you can't sort this out, can you post a photo?

I posted a photo at the top of the page. I'm currently in email correspondence with Chris so hopefully we'll get the problem sorted.

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34 minutes ago, JamieR4489 said:

posted a photo at the top of the page.

Sorry, missed that!  Looks like the wrong gears.

Edited by DLT
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As an update to my problem, Chris identified that I'd been sent a final drive gear with too few teeth and a replacement will be going in the post. I've been really impressed by the customer service with Chris answering emails late at night and at weekends.

 

As I said earlier, I've always been more than satisfied with HL gearboxes so I hope I haven't put anyone off buying from them.

 

Regards,

 

Jamie

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Nearly finished the 120 LowRider, just been running in the gears and bearings.

 

Will work out brackets next weekend.

 

I propped the DMBC on the bogie and moved it.

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On 12/08/2021 at 18:05, 5050 said:

A quick question for Chris - which may be of interest to other modellers - do you know if the 48DS chassis will fit into the Hornby body?  I'm getting one from a clubmate who has used the Hornby chassis to power something else and the opportunity of availing myself of one of these little beauties relatively inexpensively (for P4) is very tempting!

Sorry about neglecting this thread - we've been absolutely flat-out trying to get the lists of orders cleared. Finally getting near the end now...

 

With regards to the 48DS, I haven't got as clue if it will fit the RTR version. Its was designed to site the 1020 motor in the etched bonnet space to keep the cab area free, so you're in with a good chance. It also takes a 1020, so you could go for a 1015 if you need an extra 5mm to play with. The unit is actually a gearbox with a swinging arm, so there's not a lot to it - it uses the existing chassis to carry the weight of the loco. This makes it adaptable.

 

If you download the instructions and you have the actual model in front of you it'll probably be apparent if it'll fit or not.

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Hi Chris,

 

Just to say thanks for the excellent service, I ordered the coreless motor and Hiflier gearbox from you on Friday for my V2 build and they arrived this morning - fabulous service.

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard b

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Thanks for the reply Chris.  Don't worry about the time taken, I fully understand your situation - and I won't be doing anything until I get the body anyway (which may take some time!).  I've had a look at the instructions and I reckon I will have to make some frames but that's OK - I've made plenty a lot more complicated (he said with total confidence......................:senile:)

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Hello, 

 

I have been building a PDK LNER P1, an interesting build to say the least. I am about ready to get a gear box in, there's not a lot of space in the P1 and I'm keen to have the motor hidden up. Please is there any suggestions, I already have a Motor, which fits and can be hidden. 

 

Thank you 

Tom

IMG_3566.JPG

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1 hour ago, Norton Wood said:

Hello, 

 

I have been building a PDK LNER P1, an interesting build to say the least. I am about ready to get a gear box in, there's not a lot of space in the P1 and I'm keen to have the motor hidden up. Please is there any suggestions, I already have a Motor, which fits and can be hidden. 

 

Thank you 

Tom

 

Tom, 

 

Could you use a drivestretcher attached to a slimliner, or highflier to project backwards off the last axle and then go up and have the motor point forward into the boiler?

 

I had to do something similar with a 4-4-0 to avoid the motor sticking into the cab, or being seen under the front of the boiler.

 

51292852933_89e9c72b88_h.jpg

 

Lots options out there, but it does depend on how much space you've got to work with.

 

Jack

Edited by Jack P
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40 minutes ago, Jack P said:

 

Tom, 

 

Could you use a drivestretcher attached to a slimliner, or highflier to project backwards off the last axle and then go up and have the motor point forward into the boiler?

 

I had to do something similar with a 4-4-0 to avoid the motor sticking into the cab, or being seen under the front of the boiler.

 

img]https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51292852933_89e9c72b88_h.jpg[/img]

 

Lots options out there, but it does depend on how much space you've got to work with.

 

Jack

The other questions I would ask are: 

1.  How big is the layout that this model is destined to run on and therefore how heavy a train is it required to haul?

2.  How much height and width is there in the firebox?  
 

it may be that a motor can be installed vertically in the firebox with a vertical worm driving either the 3rd or more likely the 4th axle.  The HL 13/20 coreless motor coupled with a Roadrunner Compact box will romp away with a 50 wagon or 12 coach train.

 

Frank

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Road Runner Plus you can arrange the layout just as above drawing and or with the motor vertical .

 

No idea is a 1426 motor would fit in yours however. A 1420 would be easier , again it depends on how wide your firebox opening is as to what will fit therein. The 10 series are very good motors and obviuosly a thinner width.

 

Much easier to do the chassis build, before the body in future, no problems then with clearances etc.

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Thank you all for your comments.

 

I was looking at Road Runner Plus & Road runner compact as the two to use on the P1, I was thinking of putting lead in the boiler to give the loco pulling power!

 

Thank you all for the suggestions, if there are more I'll happily listen, as we know the great thing about the hobby is to help and aid younger modelers such as myself. 

 

Cheers 

Tom

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