Bakewell Street and other 7mm projects...

[Gilbert]

Bakewell Street has gone - and is now called Castlebank Sidings - but the 7mm itch does need the occasional scratch..here's a Dapol van with a bit of weathering....its needs a flat finish but otherwise is done...at least on one side and end...

Edited October 30, 2023 by Gilbert

[Gilbert]

Matt varnish applied- I'll be using the other side as a demo at Missenden next weekend as part of my weathering session.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Gilbert]

On a serious note - Andy has taken the layout on and has made lots of changes and has some exhibition bookings:

 

https://www.facebook.com/groups/231690189728481/posts/297319019832264/?comment_id=300055589558607&reply_comment_id=300057072891792&notif_id=1698957582715800&notif_t=group_comment_mention

 

Chris H

 

[Gilbert]

A bit of 7mm fun I used as a demo piece at Missenden over the weekend.

7mm Dapol 16T Mineral

Airbrushed under frame with pigments

Oils on body followed by airbrushed blending coat.

Phoenix "Rusty Rails" airbrushed on the interior.

 

Edited November 7, 2023 by Gilbert

[Gilbert]

Here's anothe Dapol Van - mainly oils on this one..

[brossard]

23 minutes ago, Gilbert said:

Here's anothe Dapol Van - mainly oils on this one..

 

Those wagons look really good Gilbert.  What do you mean by "oils"?  I'm guessing it's a weathering technique.  I might have a go.

 

John

[Gilbert]

1 minute ago, brossard said:

 

Those wagons look really good Gilbert.  What do you mean by "oils"?  I'm guessing it's a weathering technique.  I might have a go.

 

John

Artists oils from Hobby craft put on then taken off with thinner - I use white spirit but odourless thinners are also available if more expensive.

1.      Underframe is airbrushed – wheel rims are previously blackened with a marker pen . Test First

2.      Panels are next:

a.      Mix brown, black and white oils on a palette (white gives slightly faded look)

b.      Large ?5-7mm round brush to apply – looks crude but in common with many weathering techniques its about taking stuff off.

c.       Paint corner panels, all angles etc. Looks very stark. Oil paint can be worked for a long time.

d.      Rinse brush in thinners then downward movements to blend & remove paint

e.      Take paper towel and wipe down to remove paint

f.        Take a DRY brush and work down and in to nooks and crannies – have several dry brushes ready.

g.      Keep working –flat brush – always vertical – streaks will fade. Sit in the angles.

h.      Little circular motion with another dry brush to clean the centre of the panels and let original body colour show through – most paint has been removed.

 

3.      Refining techniques such as dirt around rivets etc.

a.      Stick with oil paints because of their working time and blending capability

b.      Dab panel mix around rivet detail – small brush - the paint can be thinned more to make a wash

c.       Gently work over with blending brush- apply and remove = dirt accumulation.

d.      I've done a bit of (almost) dry brushing on the undeframes

e.      A few powders have been dabbed around using a micro-brush.

 

4. Finishing - the mineral wagon has had a very light over spray of an enamel track colour mix, then the same mix then lightened to give a fading effect and the vans have been dulcoted

I've been inspired by the excellent work Neil Podbery has done in the GOG Youtubes. Worth a watch!

Chris H.

[Gilbert]

A little off 7mm but this is the same technique used on a 4mm van...

[brossard]

Thank you very much.  I think I asked you for a tutorial a while ago so this fits the bill I think.  A completely different method from what I'm used to but I will give it a try (when I get some time).

 

Video is great too, I'm feeling inspired.

 

John

[brossard]

Put my money where my mouth is and got myself 5 small tubes of Winsor & Newton oils - Titanium White, Ivory Black, Van Dyck Brown, Indian Red and Burnt Sienna.  I played the video back 5 or 6 times where Neil names the brown but I never did get it.  It occurred to me that I forgot about the thinners but you mention white spirit which is OK.

 

I have refrigerated van in white that I was never happy with, I will start there.

 

John

[Dan Randall]

6 hours ago, brossard said:

Put my money where my mouth is and got myself 5 small tubes of Winsor & Newton oils - Titanium White, Ivory Black, Van Dyck Brown, Indian Red and Burnt Sienna.  I played the video back 5 or 6 times where Neil names the brown but I never did get it.  It occurred to me that I forgot about the thinners but you mention white spirit which is OK.

 

I have refrigerated van in white that I was never happy with, I will start there.

 

John

Been meaning to try oils myself, having seen the results that Neil gets from them.

 

The colours I heard him list on the video were:-

 

Titanium White, Ivory Black, Raw Umber, Brown Ochre and Indian Red, but I imagine any rusty kind of colours will give the results we’re after. 😄

 

 

Regards

 

Dan

[Gilbert]

Based on what Neil suggests I use Titanium White. Ivory Black, Raw Umber plus Brown Ochre and Indian Red (last two can be with pigments added for grainy rust effects).

As with all weathering it's worth testing. However oils are fairly forgiving with a long working time and you can get most off with thinners if you do have a glitch. Enamels are also more easy to remedy than quick drying acrylics in my opinion FWIW.

Chrs H

[Gilbert]

9 hours ago, brossard said:

Put my money where my mouth is and got myself 5 small tubes of Winsor & Newton oils - Titanium White, Ivory Black, Van Dyck Brown, Indian Red and Burnt Sienna.  I played the video back 5 or 6 times where Neil names the brown but I never did get it.

 

It just ends up as a dark brown mess so I woud not worry too much. Adding white does provide the possibility of a slight fade as well.

Neil also discusses picture references - critical to a credible finish in my opinion

Chris

[brossard]

7 hours ago, Dan Randall said:

Been meaning to try oils myself, having seen the results that Neil gets from them.

 

The colours I heard him list on the video were:-

 

Titanium White, Ivory Black, Raw Umber, Brown Ochre and Indian Red, but I imagine any rusty kind of colours will give the results we’re after. 😄

 

 

Regards

 

Dan

 

Ah well, I got 3 out of 5 but, as you say, we're looking for rusty shades.

 

John

[brossard]

4 hours ago, Gilbert said:

It just ends up as a dark brown mess so I woud not worry too much. Adding white does provide the possibility of a slight fade as well.

Neil also discusses picture references - critical to a credible finish in my opinion

Chris

 

I have quite a good set of pics in my library so that's not a problem.  There's always Paul Bartlett's collection as well.

 

John

[sb67]

@GilbertThose wagons look great and a good descrption of the method, one to copy and keep for reference!

I tried using oil paints after watching that video and found them very workable and if you use odourless thinners non smelly! I've seen Neils work on Western Thunder and it leaves me speechless!

I did find they took a while to dry and adhere to a factory finish but maybe a coat of matt varnish would help with that. I used some of the excellent MIG Ammo oilbrushers as well as regular oil paints.

 

 

 

I weathered this little chap using mainly oils as well. 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited November 9, 2023 by sb67

[Gilbert]

6 minutes ago, sb67 said:

@GilbertThose wagons look great and a good descrption of the method, one to copy and keep for reference!

I tried using oil paints after watching that video and found them very workable and if you use odourless thinners non smelly! I've seen Neils work on Western Thunder and it leaves me speechless!

I did find they took a while to dry and adhere to a factory finish but maybe a coat of matt varnish would help with that. I used some of the excellent MIG Ammo oilbrushers as well as regular oil paints.

 

I like those 16Ts Steve

FWIW I find the factory finish is useful if you want the oils to run or use them as a wash.

I've used Sansodor as an odourless thinner - available in Hobbycraft

My preferred sequence is:

1. Wash or oils
2. Airbrush (enamels) This provides a better surface for the pigments to stick.
3. Pigments
4. Drybrush or brush paint
5. Possible light airbrush again

I tend to dulcote once they've had a few days to "dry" - longer may be better but there is so little paint actually left on the model its usually not a problem.

Chris

[sb67]

11 hours ago, Gilbert said:

I like those 16Ts Steve

FWIW I find the factory finish is useful if you want the oils to run or use them as a wash.

I've used Sansodor as an odourless thinner - available in Hobbycraft

My preferred sequence is:

1. Wash or oils
2. Airbrush (enamels) This provides a better surface for the pigments to stick.
3. Pigments
4. Drybrush or brush paint
5. Possible light airbrush again

I tend to dulcote once they've had a few days to "dry" - longer may be better but there is so little paint actually left on the model its usually not a problem.

Chris

 

Thanks Chris, that all makes perfect sense, it does seem a good idea to use the factory finish to your advantage.  I've sometimes added pigments while the oils are wet as done in the video, it does help to flatten the finish a bit butt in 4mm scale I don't want too much texture. I've run out of dulcote and have been using MIG Lucky varnish which seems ok. 

I've just finished re painting some Hornby VDA's but I'm not sure how I'm going to weather them yet. 

[Gilbert]

19 minutes ago, sb67 said:

 

Thanks Chris, that all makes perfect sense, it does seem a good idea to use the factory finish to your advantage.  I've sometimes added pigments while the oils are wet as done in the video, it does help to flatten the finish a bit butt in 4mm scale I don't want too much texture. I've run out of dulcote and have been using MIG Lucky varnish which seems ok. 

I've just finished re painting some Hornby VDA's but I'm not sure how I'm going to weather them yet. 

If you have a Halfords nearby seek out their Matt Lacquer.....test first obviously...

[sb67]

1 hour ago, Gilbert said:

If you have a Halfords nearby seek out their Matt Lacquer.....test first obviously...

Ok, ta Chris.

[Gilbert]

On 24/10/2022 at 15:22, burtos said:

Can I ask what colour blue paint you used on the brick work for the bridge.

 

I have ordered myself the kit from skytrex, but they aren't responding to any comms about what paints to use and where.

I'm also told Humbrol 77 is a good substitute as well but I'm yet to try it...

Chris