RMweb Premium Popular Post Nile Posted October 27, 2019 Author RMweb Premium Popular Post Share Posted October 27, 2019 Paint and transfers on, and weathered with some Humbrol powders. As with my other SECR wagons the two sides have markings from different eras. 14 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nile Posted November 1, 2019 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 1, 2019 (edited) Before moving onto the next wagon I wanted to revisit the Cambrian brake van on the previous page. I wasn't happy with the fit of the roof, there were a few gaps at the ends, as can be seen in the photos. To fix this I ran some diluted Glue'n'Glaze into these gaps. When dry I covered this with black paint. Much better. Edited November 6, 2022 by Nile 17 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted November 5, 2019 Share Posted November 5, 2019 On 26/10/2019 at 19:30, Asterix2012 said: Nile I have just read through all 37 pages Very impressive work I do have a question, what would you recommend as the best method to join white metal to white metal and white metal to brass? As an alternative, I pretty much always solder whitemetal to whitemetal, and to brass. When soldering to brass, it is necessary to pre-tin the brass with normal solder, and then tin again with low-melt. I would normally tin the whitemetal with low-melt, place the two together, then apply heat to the brass. You’ll see the low-melt progressively melt, and as the melt front reaches the tinning on the whitemetal part, ensure that it’s pressed down, and take the heat away. It cools and grabs very quickly if there’s more brass to soak up the heat. hth Simon 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nile Posted November 5, 2019 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 5, 2019 Agreed Simon, but the plastic floor in this kit ruled out soldering. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Compound2632 Posted November 6, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 6, 2019 Would it be possible to solder up the sides and ends and then slip the floor in? (What do the instructions suggest?) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nile Posted November 6, 2019 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 6, 2019 No, the knees get in the way. The instructions suggest gluing. How easy is it to get a neat solder join with whitemetal? Both sides of the joint will be visible where the sides and ends meet. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Compound2632 Posted November 6, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 6, 2019 2 hours ago, Nile said: How easy is it to get a neat solder join with whitemetal? Both sides of the joint will be visible where the sides and ends meet. We shall see, once I get my hands on the kit! Looking back through your build, I think you must have had to do a bit of filling at some corners, before filing the bend on the corner plates? I've been building a number of whitemetal opens recently; these all have butt joints at the corners, which can be tricky to line up to give a smooth surface. I've actually not been too fussed about fitting floors to wagons that will have loads, but it looks as though in this case one is needed, to receive the W-iron assembly - or was that your own invention? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nile Posted November 7, 2019 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 7, 2019 (edited) Good evening Stephen, I shall try to answer some questions by starting on the next wagon, the other Prickley Pear kit I bought at Scaleforum. NBR dia.77 8-ton 3-plank wagon Assembly follows the same method as before. Once the sides and ends have been cleaned up and fettled they fit together very well. These parts are just resting together. These parts could be soldered together as the floor can be fitted afterwards. I used thin superglue applied to the top of the corners, it flows into the joint rather like MEK does with plastic.It also acts as a filler when applied to the outside of the corners. These will be rounded later by filing. Later the floor piece was cut to fit the space and glued into it. Edited November 6, 2022 by Nile 6 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Compound2632 Posted November 7, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 7, 2019 @Nile thanks! The whitemetal parts do look very crisp and clean - did you do any cleaning or polishing up before assembly? (Less critical with glue than solder.) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlfaZagato Posted November 7, 2019 Share Posted November 7, 2019 Those castings are dreamy. I'm jealous. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nile Posted November 12, 2019 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 12, 2019 (edited) The chassis is the same design as before, with rocking W-irons. The instructions suggest 0.5mm of packing between them and the floor, so I assembled the parts on a sub-chassis of 20thou plastic. This fits into the space under the wagon floor, where it will eventually be glued. Edited November 6, 2022 by Nile 8 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nile Posted November 17, 2019 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 17, 2019 (edited) As the brake shoe units were glued to the sub-chassis rather than the wagon floor I had to reduce their height by 0.5mm to compensate. The instructions describe how to make the safety loops from the supplied brass wire. As I had some brass strip the right size I used that instead. In common with the previous kit the brake levers are too short. I used some more brass strip to make extensions, the join will be hidden inside the ratchet. Edited November 6, 2022 by Nile 4 1 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Compound2632 Posted November 17, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 17, 2019 Scotch brake on both sides? What happened to North British parsimony? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nile Posted November 22, 2019 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 22, 2019 (edited) In the instruction notes it doesn't say when the extra brake was fitted, just later. You could probably get away with just one brake for your period. I've been splashing the paint about, this is a test fit before adding the markings and weathering. Edited November 6, 2022 by Nile 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Compound2632 Posted November 22, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 22, 2019 (edited) 5 minutes ago, Nile said: In the instruction notes it doesn't say when the extra brake was fitted, just later. You could probably get away with just one brake for your period. ... or at any period. My guess would be that a wagon of this vintage went to the grave with single-sided brakes. But I don't (yet) have Tatlow Vol. 3 - there could be photographic evidence against me. Recently, I've been leaving brake levers off until the main painting is done (and painting them separately) to get a neater job and to avoid damage - especially with whitemetal or brass. Edited November 22, 2019 by Compound2632 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nile Posted November 25, 2019 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 25, 2019 (edited) The same here, unless the underframe is black, which isn't very often now. 'tis finished, bogof style. The numberplate is from a Slater's sheet, with 'MIDLAND' painted out. Not quite right, but better than nothing. Edited November 6, 2022 by Nile 8 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nile Posted December 8, 2019 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted December 8, 2019 Next is another purchase at Scaleforum. I thought I might as well build it rather than try to find somewhere of store it. It's a Wizard/51L NER van. Once cleaned up the parts fit together well. This is a dry fit of the sides and ends, there is a plasticard floor inside keeping it square. Main assembly complete. As the wheels are now trapped I pre-painted the W-irons black. 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nile Posted December 11, 2019 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted December 11, 2019 Onto the painting stage with some Phoenix NER wagon grey. This photo also shows the internal bracing from some leftover plastic sprue. The long one will help support the roof. 6 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2996 Victor Posted December 12, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 12, 2019 On 08/12/2019 at 11:16, Nile said: Next is another purchase at Scaleforum. I thought I might as well build it rather than try to find somewhere of store it. It's a Wizard/51L NER van. Once cleaned up the parts fit together well. This is a dry fit of the sides and ends, there is a plasticard floor inside keeping it square. Main assembly complete. As the wheels are now trapped I pre-painted the W-irons black. Excellent as always! May I ask how you made/what you used for the commode rail "eyes" on the end pillars? Cheers, Mark 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nile Posted December 12, 2019 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted December 12, 2019 The handrail is 0.4mm and was fitted first into holes at the ends. I then drilled holes above and below it in the end stanchions. I bent some 0.3mm brass rod into U shapes and inserted them into the holes. This enlargement should help explain. 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2996 Victor Posted December 13, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 13, 2019 13 hours ago, Nile said: The handrail is 0.4mm and was fitted first into holes at the ends. I then drilled holes above and below it in the end stanchions. I bent some 0.3mm brass rod into U shapes and inserted them into the holes. This enlargement should help explain. Thanks for the extra pic and info! Much appreciated. Cheers, Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nile Posted December 16, 2019 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted December 16, 2019 Some slow progress, just the roof to sort out. The number is a bit cramped, maybe I should have picked one with some ones in it. 10 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guy Rixon Posted December 18, 2019 Share Posted December 18, 2019 Seems to me that most scripts in railway transfers are drawn a little over-sized when they really need to be a little under-size. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cctransuk Posted December 18, 2019 Share Posted December 18, 2019 25 minutes ago, Guy Rixon said: Seems to me that most scripts in railway transfers are drawn a little over-sized when they really need to be a little under-size. I'm glad that you said 'most' - they are spot-on from this supplier ! Moreover, a signwriter can subtly adjust lettering sizes to fit the available space - transfer designers do no have that luxury if the transfer sheet is intended to be 'generic'. Regards, John Isherwood, Cambridge Custom Transfers. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guy Rixon Posted December 18, 2019 Share Posted December 18, 2019 John, I'm glad to hear that your products are very accurate. Well done. I wish you did something that suits my period. I still wonder if the best compromise for generic sheets might be to compress the sizes and spacing very slightly. An example is the "Ventilated" legend that appears on many kinds of GWR van: it's nearly always squeezed in between the van framing and default spacing of the letters makes it too large. If the letters were 5% smaller than nominal or the spacing 5% tighter, I don't think anybody would notice, but if the legend doesn't fit the space it really stands out. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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