Removed a/c Posted June 20, 2016 Share Posted June 20, 2016 (edited) Thanks Craig, Someone on another posted suggested I change CV47 so I am going to try that. I am also toying with the idea of just buying the sound decoder for it! Who knew having fun could cause so much displeasure HAHA Edited June 20, 2016 by thebritfarmer Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
UP 4000 Posted June 20, 2016 Share Posted June 20, 2016 Oh I don't know, really enjoyed doing this, learnt a lot about the lokprogrammer and what you can do with esu decoders, also going to start doing the cab lighting different in my other locos and modify the shunting function as well. I can give you the CV list for the functions, of what came out off the lokprogrammer, but all just numbers to me, Don't know how to read them or if they are any good though? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Removed a/c Posted June 20, 2016 Share Posted June 20, 2016 (edited) It would be handy to have Craig, thanks. If I buy a sound decoder I would still have to solder the speakers (never done that in my life) and would have to by a soldering iron, By the time I am done I could have bought the sound version from eBay !!! Edited June 20, 2016 by thebritfarmer Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
UP 4000 Posted June 20, 2016 Share Posted June 20, 2016 It would be handy to have Craig, thanks. If I buy a sound decoder I would still have to solder the speakers (never done that in my life) and would have to by a soldering iron, By the time I am done I could have bought the sound version from eBay !!! Yes definitely, The speakers do need soldering to the PCB board, PC-1 is err, o.k, PC-2 is even a smaller PCB, If your not into soldering, It's going to be one ell of task. I can't send the CV's, The lokprogrammer software won't let me copy them, But if you PM me with your email I will send you the file, from there if you download the lokprogrammer software from the ESU website (free download) you will be able to read them off there and see the setup. If you could borrow a lokprogrammer, or even save the file to a usb, somebody with a lokprogrammer could rebolw the decoder and E-Train will be bang on then. Truthfully, if you weren't bothered about sound, not only on E-Train, but in generally, I'd go for the lokprogrammer, over sound, and upgrade to lokpilots, I know a bit more expensive, but that compensates for an easy life, no CV's, and a whole host of fun experimenting what you can do. Sorting the light functions out for E-Train has give me plenty of ideas for the others, might not be correct, but does look good though,, Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Removed a/c Posted June 21, 2016 Share Posted June 21, 2016 Crisis averted !!!!!!!! Lights are now working correctly. Thanks to Craig and others that have helped me. Finally I can connect it all together and attach the coach connectors for the first time. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Tilt Posted June 21, 2016 Share Posted June 21, 2016 I wish I could hear the tilt systems start up on mine, but our club DCC handset only goes up to F12. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonklein611 Posted June 21, 2016 Share Posted June 21, 2016 I wish I could hear the tilt systems start up on mine, but our club DCC handset only goes up to F12. What brand of DCC? If it's Digitrax, there are tricks to get to the higher functions. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
UP 4000 Posted June 21, 2016 Share Posted June 21, 2016 Crisis averted !!!!!!!! Lights are now working correctly. Thanks to Craig and others that have helped me. Finally I can connect it all together and attach the coach connectors for the first time. Great news Scott, Glad to hear another E-Train riding the rails 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Tilt Posted June 21, 2016 Share Posted June 21, 2016 What brand of DCC? If it's Digitrax, there are tricks to get to the higher functions. Erm, it's a black one with a T-shaped display at the top and LOTS of buttons and things on it. Does that help? I'll have a look next Monday and see if there's a name on it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Ian J. Posted June 21, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 21, 2016 Erm, it's a black one with a T-shaped display at the top and LOTS of buttons and things on it. Does that help? I'll have a look next Monday and see if there's a name on it. That sounds like NCE: http://www.ncedcc.com/ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete the Elaner Posted June 21, 2016 Share Posted June 21, 2016 (edited) Erm, it's a black one with a T-shaped display at the top and LOTS of buttons and things on it. Does that help? I'll have a look next Monday and see if there's a name on it. It does indeed sound like NCE. if so, it is possible to get higher functions. To do this, you first need to configure the Option button as a "+10 function" button. By default is is a brake button, but us men don't read instructions unless we really have to so the operator will (like I did until about 5 minutes ago) think that it is currently a pointless button To configure the option button for this, you need to go through cab setup mode as follows: Press & hold down Select while plugging in the cab. You are now in cab setup mode. Changing the function of the Option button is about the 5th choice. Enter will accept the previous setting for each choice. When you get to Option, it should say 94 (factory setting to use it as a brake). Type in 122 here. After you enter this, press Prog/Esc & you are ready to go. That may sound complicated but it makes a lot more sense when you follow it on the throttle. Those instructions were from my PowerPro ("full fat" system) manual. I am not sure where my PowerCab manual is but I expect it will be the same. I like 10 & 11: more turbines firing up. Remember to select them again to turn them off though. I think the decoder only plays 5 sounds simultaneously & the display does not show you the higher ones are running. Edited June 21, 2016 by Pete the Elaner Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shovelto Posted June 22, 2016 Share Posted June 22, 2016 It does indeed sound like NCE. if so, it is possible to get higher functions. To do this, you first need to configure the Option button as a "+10 function" button. By default is is a brake button, but us men don't read instructions unless we really have to so the operator will (like I did until about 5 minutes ago) think that it is currently a pointless button To configure the option button for this, you need to go through cab setup mode as follows: Press & hold down Select while plugging in the cab. You are now in cab setup mode. Changing the function of the Option button is about the 5th choice. Enter will accept the previous setting for each choice. When you get to Option, it should say 94 (factory setting to use it as a brake). Type in 122 here. After you enter this, press Prog/Esc & you are ready to go. That may sound complicated but it makes a lot more sense when you follow it on the throttle. Those instructions were from my PowerPro ("full fat" system) manual. I am not sure where my PowerCab manual is but I expect it will be the same. I like 10 & 11: more turbines firing up. Remember to select them again to turn them off though. I think the decoder only plays 5 sounds simultaneously & the display does not show you the higher ones are running. Yes it is the same in the PowerCab manual. You can download a copy from the NCE website at https://ncedcc.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/article_attachments/200498789/Power_Cab_V_1.65_Manual.pdf Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Tilt Posted June 22, 2016 Share Posted June 22, 2016 It sounds as if it was easier to develop a real servo-hydraulic tilt system............. I'll be able to check it out next week with luck. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
UP 4000 Posted June 23, 2016 Share Posted June 23, 2016 Here's one for Kit, Came across this photo, To ask a silly question, what's the yellow thing sticking out from her nose?? And no she hasn't got a cold, is it like what you get on planes and helicopters for measuring the speed, (pitot tube). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyman7 Posted June 23, 2016 Share Posted June 23, 2016 Here's one for Kit, Came across this photo, To ask a silly question, what's the yellow thing sticking out from her nose?? And no she hasn't got a cold, is it like what you get on planes and helicopters for measuring the speed, (pitot tube). When they finished building it they found a Triang Battlespace turbo car and noted the yellow rubber tip, which they realised with horror they had left off.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium newbryford Posted June 23, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 23, 2016 (edited) Here's one for Kit, Came across this photo, To ask a silly question, what's the yellow thing sticking out from her nose?? And no she hasn't got a cold, is it like what you get on planes and helicopters for measuring the speed, (pitot tube). More info further back in the topic Cheers, Mick Edited June 23, 2016 by newbryford Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Tilt Posted June 23, 2016 Share Posted June 23, 2016 More info further back in the topic Cheers, Mick Thanks for finding that Mick, I was dreading writing it all out again. I've found a couple of machined brass pitot tubes that might do that job, made by a Polish firm called 'Master'. They produce LOADS of 1/48 and 1/72 scale pitots for the model aircraft market and they're superbly done. When I've worked out the best one for E-Train I'll post it here. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
UP 4000 Posted June 23, 2016 Share Posted June 23, 2016 More info further back in the topic Cheers, Mick Thanks Mick, Appreciate it, I was sort of on the right tracks, never seen the probe before, Have to say doesn't suit her well though, Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium newbryford Posted June 23, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 23, 2016 Thanks for finding that Mick, I was dreading writing it all out again. No problem Kit, All I did was use the search box at the top, with the term "aero" and made sure I clicked "this topic" and then searched.. It chucked out a few results, but easy to find the relevant one. So if you're looking back for any of your previous explanations, just use a relevant search term and Robert is your Dad's brother.... Cheers, Mick 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Colin_McLeod Posted June 23, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 23, 2016 ....or your Mum's brother..... lol Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tgvfan Posted June 24, 2016 Share Posted June 24, 2016 Or even your sisters brothers uncle twice removed Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Tilt Posted June 27, 2016 Share Posted June 27, 2016 That sounds like NCE: http://www.ncedcc.com/ Looks like it is, it says it's an 'NCE Power Cab' on it's front panel, so I can see mucho button pushing in my future after re-reading all those instructions above, thanks so much. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
No Decorum Posted June 28, 2016 Share Posted June 28, 2016 It is, I think, worth getting to grips with it. I was happy with Dynamis for years but its limited capacity (40 locomotives) made me look for something else. What I would regard as the ideal DCC controller has not yet been built but I came to the conclusion that the NCE Power Cab was the best of the bunch. I run my sound APT-E with it and it’s truly wonderful. It operates the full range of sounds and I can control speed with one hand without looking at the controller. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
GRUNFOS Posted June 28, 2016 Share Posted June 28, 2016 Kit this should help took an age to find but it works and is so simple Pressing HEADLIGHT will display “F10 through F19 on the bottom line of the cab. Releasing the SHIFT key and pressing a digit will toggle that number plus ten. For example: Pressing 6 will toggle F16, with the display returning to normal. Pressing HEADLIGHT a second time will display “F21 through F28” on the cab. Pressing a digit with this display will toggle that number plus twenty. Pressing HEADLIGHT a third time will return to the F10 through F19 display. Pressing Prog/Esc at any time will abort the operation. Regards Paul. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Tilt Posted June 28, 2016 Share Posted June 28, 2016 Thanks Paul, I'll try that next week. It turns out that our club throttle is already set to '122' but try as I might I could not get it to show and different F Nos. on the screen. I hope your method will work a bit better. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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