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Clive Mortimore
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Manchester sidings have been tested and seem OK after sorting out a couple of little niggles.

 

Hi Clive.

 

Any chance of a re-post of your track plan sometime? (or a link in your sig')

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Hi Clive.

 

Any chance of a re-post of your track plan sometime? (or a link in your sig')

Hi John

 

There has been a very slight change to the Manchester sidings owning to problem with the 3way point, it has been replaced with a right and left hand points

 

post-16423-0-27567800-1544301199_thumb.png

 

 

The plan remains only scenic the station area and then within the railway boundary. There may be some minor changes.

 

post-16423-0-19463900-1544301220_thumb.png

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1. Very jealous of the space you've got there....

2. I really like the partial modelling of the overall roof, I'm surprised this trick isn't done more often (Wibdenshaw does this particularly well, hiding the necessarily sharp curves).  Why give yourself more work creating something no-one can see?

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Hi John

 

There has been a very slight change to the Manchester sidings owning to problem with the 3way point, it has been replaced with a right and left hand points

 

attachicon.gifnew master 6 ins plat scenic.png

 

 

The plan remains only scenic the station area and then within the railway boundary. There may be some minor changes.

 

attachicon.gifNew station ideas 1-9-17.png

 

Thank you. A help when you are describing things.

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An excellent idea.  Too many model railways these days are actually model fields.

With just doing within the railway boundary it will keep the layout viewable form both sides. I not even having a station building (or hotel). The view from the end of the station will be the one you get when standing on the concourse of a terminal station looking at the trains and the adventure that awaits you at the end of the journey....or if your a commuter, "Thank goodness I am going home". 

 

There are some wonderful model scenes both urban and rural with a railway line going through, I want a model of the railway.

 

As for model fields many seem so wrong. We as modellers are quite bad at fixing our model railways to a season, let alone a month. There are little things like the colour of the leaves on the trees, spring time they are bright green, and then get duller as summer closes and autumn starts. I have seen layouts where a harvest is underway, late summer, with a photo back scene and none of the trees have leaves on them.

 

I am either going for a dull winters day or a bright summers day. Once I decided then my figures will be suitably dressed.

Edited by Clive Mortimore
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With just doing within the railway boundary it will keep the layout viewable form both sides. I not even having a station building (or hotel). The view from the end of the station will be the one you get when standing on the concourse of a terminal station looking at the trains and the adventure that awaits you at the end of the journey....or if your a commuter, "Thank goodness I am going home".

 

There are some wonderful model scenes both urban and rural with a railway line going through, I want a model of the railway.

 

As for model fields many seem so wrong. We as modellers are quite bad at fixing our model railways to a season, let alone a month. There are little things like the colour of the leaves on the trees, spring time they are bright green, and then get duller as summer closes and autumn starts. I have seen layouts where a harvest is underway, late summer, with a photo back scene and none of the trees have leaves on them.

 

I am either going for a dull winters day or a bight summers day. Once I decided then my figures will be suitably dressed.

The problem with winter settings is Absence of loco smoke and steam effects. A mid summer scene offsets the lack of steam; on the prototype you can't see it. Edited by john new
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True but there was still smoke....... and often lots of it.

Wot with electric units :scared: :scared:

 

I thinking of bunging up some 25 kv Mk1 OLE to run my EMUs and scrapping me steamers, well the Hornby ones as they keep falling apart. They never have any spares.

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Just like the real thing!

 

John.

Hi John

 

Just Like the Real Thing   :O  I am not starting to model O gauge  :rtfm:

 

Today's operation has been nearly trouble free, OK still some sticky points, I have the replacement GM500s but not wired them in yet. The fat bald bloke still needs to buck his ideas up an stop cocking things up. :yes: Just before I was going to write this a coach derailed on plain track and pulled the coupling off the one in front. All has been reassembled and as I write it is on its 10th or so lap at speed and all is fine  :fool:

Edited by Clive Mortimore
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In summer with fewer clothes you have the issue of more skin on show. I find it is one of the hardest aspects of a model figure to get correct.

Richard

Hi Richard

 

You model the Edwardian era, no miniskirts in those days, so I am informed. The way the Edwardian's dressed there would be very little skin on show, even the women had beards.

 

I was thinking summer, everything looks a tad cleaner. In winter when it is damp the dust sticks to stuff like rolling stock making it dirtier. In the summer when dry it falls off. Less weathering to do.

 

Plants are green in summer which is easier to model. Some fresh weeds growing along the boundary wall will give a splash of colour.

 

People tend to wear lighter and brighter coloured clothes which makes the layout more cheerful. There were exceptions even in the 60s, my granddad wouldn't be seen outside his front gate without a jacket on and they were always dark coloured. Plus his flat cap, his summer one was grey.

 

Something I have learnt, or observed is that station lights like street lights are not on when it is daylight and summer has lots of daylight. Why do modellers have the station, loco shed  and goods yard lights on in the daytime? 

 

No mud puddles (except that one by the water crane).

 

 

Some Hungarian Psychobilly

 

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Clive, repair your broken locos, split gears excepted.

 

Pony trucks with mazak rot can sometimes be rescued with superglue - let it soak into the crazed metal and it will hold it together. I have an L1 with bogie and pony truck repaired this way and so far so good. If the curved holes of the pony truck have broken fit a longer arm with single hole to go under the first screw of keeper plate. It will probably work better than the original whose slotted holes result in the wheelbase changing by a scale 18" every time the direction is reversed.

 

Richard, Clive doesn't have a problem with people - his plastic surgery skills are legendary!

 

Jim

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Clive, repair your broken locos, split gears excepted.

 

Pony trucks with mazak rot can sometimes be rescued with superglue - let it soak into the crazed metal and it will hold it together. I have an L1 with bogie and pony truck repaired this way and so far so good. If the curved holes of the pony truck have broken fit a longer arm with single hole to go under the first screw of keeper plate. It will probably work better than the original whose slotted holes result in the wheelbase changing by a scale 18" every time the direction is reversed.

 

Richard, Clive doesn't have a problem with people - his plastic surgery skills are legendary!

 

Jim

Hi Jim

 

Superglue was tried, it at first shattered on them stupid slots. It was when I tried to take the wheel set out the rest went Puff.

 

post-16423-0-75394300-1544400979_thumb.jpg

The bits when the pony truck fell off the chassis.

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Hi Jim

 

The split gear is on on the same spindle as another gear, I was thinking If I drilled three small holes through the sides of the gears and put in brass or plastic rod (superglued) then if both cracked and non longer spun the spindle they would still spin each other transferring drive to the wheels.

 

post-16423-0-28629200-1544401845.png

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Clive I might have a spare pony for the 8f which I think is the same part.

 

Mark

Cheers for the offer Mark.

 

I did get a replacement pony truck from Peter's spares, the last one he had, so for the moment I am OK. Hold on to it because there might be someone else very soon who needs one, and I will know where to redirect them.

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Too add to my idea about the gear wheels, wagon disc wheels had holes in them so if they cracked the crack would be deflected to the weak spot, one the holes not the edge enabling the wagon to be limped to the nearest repair shop. If the same happened with these nylon gears then the split will not be at the edge and gear will still function and not induce a knocking sound.

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I think one could fashion some Pony Trucks from Comet's range. Bit light but that can be sorted with some lead.

Phil

 

You had to mend and make do in olden days or go without, all of Hornby's GWR 8 coupled loco's have this odd ball feature if oiled with a bit silicone grease it seems to work well

so if you are stuck for spares try other models.                                                                                                                                                                          

                                                                          G.J. Churchward

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alright then, here goes.  I remember watching this on TV in the summer of 1983 on one of those BBC2 all-night music shows...

 

 

there was a young lady involved, but I preferred Genesis to be honest

Okay proper Genesis, some time before The Lamb lies down on Broadway and about ten years before Three Sides Live

Edited by Ian_H
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Hi Jim

 

The split gear is on on the same spindle as another gear, I was thinking If I drilled three small holes through the sides of the gears and put in brass or plastic rod (superglued) then if both cracked and non longer spun the spindle they would still spin each other transferring drive to the wheels.

 

attachicon.gifIdea two.png

 

Hi Clive,

 

Bring the split gear with you on Friday. I've got a few which I'll bring and if there is an identical one then you are welcome to it.

 

I've never tried repairing split gears. The split will end between two teeth meaning they are further apart, affecting the running. The hole in the gear would need easing to allow a sliding fit on the axle and the split clamped to close it before you pinned it.

 

Jim

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