Sheffield Exchange, Toy trains, music and fun!

[Clive Mortimore]

46 minutes ago, newbryford said:

 

It's DC......

 

It still uses DC to power the locos, so you don't need to convert any locos.

 

I understand it as making the decoder stationary. i.e. rather than having the decoder onboard the loco, each decoder provides power to a section of track.

The stationary decoders are controlled digitally - hence DigitalDC.

Wow Mick

 

So each stationary decoder supplies power to each section making the engine go backwards and the other way, stop and start at the command of the human operating it. Bit like my Gaugemaster Combi, Gaugemaster Handheld, Gaugemaster Handheld Feedback, Gaugemaster panel mount and the Gaugemaster panel mount feedback controllers? I also have a spare Gaugemaster100M which can be used in place of the Gaugemaster Combi. 

[midlands]

noob question coming up!

 

Can I run my newly aquired dcc ready loco's  on an ornery dc powered track (back in the day it was called the triang train controller :P) .

[newbryford]

22 minutes ago, Clive Mortimore said:

Wow Mick

 

So each stationary decoder supplies power to each section making the engine go backwards and the other way, stop and start at the command of the human operating it. Bit like my Gaugemaster Combi, Gaugemaster Handheld, Gaugemaster Handheld Feedback, Gaugemaster panel mount and the Gaugemaster panel mount feedback controllers? I also have a spare Gaugemaster100M which can be used in place of the Gaugemaster Combi. 

 

Very probably.

 

Don't worry - I'm not promoting it or have any intention of using it either.

 

What would be fun is if you posted the your above reply on the DDC thread...............

 

[newbryford]

9 minutes ago, midlands said:

 

noob question coming up!

 

Can I run my newly aquired dcc ready loco's  on an ornery dc powered track (back in the day it was called the triang train controller :P) .

 

Yes.

"DCC ready" is just that - not DCC fitted, but ready to accept a DCC decoder via an on-board socket

 

 

 

[midlands]

1 minute ago, newbryford said:

 

Yes.

"DCC ready" is just that - not DCC fitted, but ready to accept a DCC decoder via an on-board socket

 

 

 

oh good thanks, I was just thinking going to have to open them up and rewire them all.... heaven forbid.

[newbryford]

2 minutes ago, midlands said:

oh good thanks, I was just thinking going to have to open them up and rewire them all.... heaven forbid.

 

Just in case:

especially for Clive...............  ;-)

 

[midlands]

1 minute ago, newbryford said:

 

Just in case:

especially for Clive...............  ;-)

oh cheers, thanks, I tried the search thingy and it didnt throw that thread up...off to do some edumication reading, cheers Newbryford..:)

 

[jimwal]

 

Here is my contribution to Clive's DCC (dismantle and cut coaches) part of his thread. As he doesn't do glazing too often here we have one that looks to be all glazing!

 

The model's origin is mostly a 'Maj' plastic kit. these had clear moulded profiled sides and printed vinyl overlays. The overlays got used on a Comet  LMS carriage. The sides are useful here being plain with no window or door detail to remove or fill in.

 

It will represent a tool van as converted by the LMS similar to that pictured in Peter Tatlow's Breakdown cranes volume 2. The brass sided vehicle alongside may become a riding van. I believe the crane in the photo had LNER vehicles, so these will be typical rather than spot on.

 

With the Slaters Midland van for the packing timber I will have a complete breakdown van train in period with the livery the crane is in.

 

Jim.

 

 

[Clive Mortimore]

7 hours ago, newbryford said:

 

Just in case:

especially for Clive...............  ;-)

 

But there is no need to take out the chip. Just cut the black and red wire as close to the PCB as possible. Re-route them to the motor and solder them to the brushes, after removing the brown and orange. Do not remove the brown and orange until you have re-routed the black and red in case the black and red are not long enough. If this is the case join the black to the brown and the red to the orange (Mick will advise me if I have it wrong).

 

Should the loco go backwards not frontwards when told to, then swap the polarity by swapping the pick up wheels.

 

Please only follow this advice if you are as daft as me.

[Andrew P]

31 minutes ago, Clive Mortimore said:

But there is no need to take out the chip. Just cut the black and red wire as close to the PCB as possible. Re-route them to the motor and solder them to the brushes, after removing the brown and orange. Do not remove the brown and orange until you have re-routed the black and red in case the black and red are not long enough. If this is the case join the black to the brown and the red to the orange (Mick will advise me if I have it wrong).

 

Should the loco go backwards not frontwards when told to, then swap the polarity by swapping the pick up wheels.

 

Please only follow this advice if you are as daft as me.

Noooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo Buy a blanking plug for about 50p, Bachmann sell them in packs of about 10 I think.

[Gibbo675]

30 minutes ago, Clive Mortimore said:

But there is no need to take out the chip. Just cut the black and red wire as close to the PCB as possible. Re-route them to the motor and solder them to the brushes, after removing the brown and orange. Do not remove the brown and orange until you have re-routed the black and red in case the black and red are not long enough. If this is the case join the black to the brown and the red to the orange (Mick will advise me if I have it wrong).

 

Should the loco go backwards not frontwards when told to, then swap the polarity by swapping the pick up wheels.

 

Please only follow this advice if you are as daft as me.

Hi Clive,

 

That sounds like my looneys guide to three phase wiring:

1. Red to red.
2. Yellow to yellow.
3. Blue to bits.

Gibbo.

[Clive Mortimore]

1 minute ago, Andrew P said:

Noooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo Buy a blanking plug for about 50p, Bachmann sell them in packs of about 10 I think.

But that involves removing the chip, my method leaves the chip in place doing nothing.

[Clive Mortimore]

1 minute ago, Gibbo675 said:

Hi Clive,

 

That sounds like my looneys guide to three phase wiring:

1. Red to red.
2. Yellow to yellow.
3. Blue to bits.

Gibbo.

Ah but if the red and black are long enough you don't need to worry about the orange and brown.

[Clive Mortimore]

I have just revisited the extra D thread.....   there does not seem to be any

 

Last nights new band (new to me)

 

[Enterprisingwestern]

10 hours ago, newbryford said:

 

It's DC......

 

It still uses DC to power the locos, so you don't need to convert any locos.

 

I understand it as making the decoder stationary. i.e. rather than having the decoder onboard the loco, each decoder provides power to a section of track.

The stationary decoders are controlled digitally - hence DigitalDC.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Whoever dreamt that lot up is to be congratulated, they have achieved the nirvana that is the worst of both worlds.

 

Mike.

[5BarVT]

21 minutes ago, Clive Mortimore said:

But that involves removing the chip, my method leaves the chip in place doing nothing.

And, more importantly, leaves the chip in a condition where it won’t work anymore. 

:-)

Paul.

[Andrew P]

21 minutes ago, Clive Mortimore said:

But that involves removing the chip, my method leaves the chip in place doing nothing.

My method saves soldering / Burnt Fingers / Holes in Jeans / Solder on carpet / SCREAMING WIFE, and you can sell the chip for a P R O F I T.

[Bogie]

Good to see this thread continues its informative mindset.

[john new]

10 hours ago, newbryford said:

 

It's DC......

 

It still uses DC to power the locos, so you don't need to convert any locos.

 

I understand it as making the decoder stationary. i.e. rather than having the decoder onboard the loco, each decoder provides power to a section of track.

The stationary decoders are controlled digitally - hence DigitalDC.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Had a look, seems a bonkers idea, compared with the other two options.  Regarding centre rail 3-rail mentioned earlier, loses out totally to 2 rail for looks, but smashes both 2rail DC & DCC in other ways. How do I know, ran my HDublo layout at shows through to the early 2000s., 

[Clive Mortimore]

1 hour ago, 5BarVT said:

And, more importantly, leaves the chip in a condition where it won’t work anymore. 

:-)

Paul.

Hi Paul

 

Won't work, can't work = doing nothing.

 

I was good at doing nothing until I got married.

[jazzer]

50 minutes ago, Bogie said:

Good to see this thread continues its informative mindset.

 

It’s all beyond me. I don’t understand all this technerlerlogical  stuff . I just clean the track, get a loco, clean the wheels, put it on the track, twiddle my ageing Gaugemaster and off it goes. They all shunt at shunting speeds, slowly accelerate and decelerate like a train not a rocket, gently buffer up to the coaches without suddenly stopping short or clouting the coaches and knocking them back a couple of inches , glide  gently over the points without derailing , and generally move about like the big trains.

What am I doing wrong ?

 

[Clive Mortimore]

3 hours ago, Andrew P said:

My method saves soldering / Burnt Fingers / Holes in Jeans / Solder on carpet / SCREAMING WIFE, and you can sell the chip for a P R O F I T.

And there was me trying to save the poor lad form the complication of removing the decoder.

 

Mind you if CV29 is set right then it would run on DC just like my n-gins do.

Edited February 12, 2020 by Clive Mortimore

[Stubby47]

"DCC (dismantle and cut coaches)"

 

Brilliant !

[Gibbo675]

10 minutes ago, Stubby47 said:

"DCC (dismantle and cut coaches)"

 

Brilliant !

Hi Stubby,

 

When it goes wrong it could be, Destroyed and Crocked Coaches.

 

Gibbo.

[Clive Mortimore]

1 hour ago, jazzer said:

 

It’s all beyond me. I don’t understand all this technerlerlogical  stuff . I just clean the track, get a loco, clean the wheels, put it on the track, twiddle my ageing Gaugemaster and off it goes. They all shunt at shunting speeds, slowly accelerate and decelerate like a train not a rocket, gently buffer up to the coaches without suddenly stopping short or clouting the coaches and knocking them back a couple of inches , glide  gently over the points without derailing , and generally move about like the big trains.

What am I doing wrong ?

 

Hi Jazzer

 

So you a re using RD1 and RD2 to twist the twiddly thing to make the little toy engine go frontways and rearwards at the speed you think is right. Now I think I have sussed out your problem. You are not using a Diddlely Do 678a to give a constant How's-ya-father if interfaced with a ADH series 13.  Don't use a ADH series 14 cos that just bangs out erratic Hip Hop interfering with the Chuff Chuff from the ice cube speaker.  All of this will result in a MCI or CVA if allowed to become overloaded.

 

Apparently 10% of DC users find it easier to use LD1 and LD2 to turn the little black knob owing to their genetic make up.

Edited February 12, 2020 by Clive Mortimore