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Everard Junction - 88 to 90 - BR Western Region


richard w
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Top drawer stuff, your Youtube videos are a wonderful reference source and the standard of your modelling is first class. 

 

I have several weathered locos where I want to try out your re-weathering technique. I am not completly certain that the fluid in the link below is the LA Totally Awesome you used. Please would you have a look and confirm. If I am wrong, could you suggest a place to get my hands on some. I would hate to just plonk one of my locos in the wrong stuff and see it melt or something similar!

 

Much obliged.

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LA-s-Totally-Awesome-Cleaner-Stain-Remover-Degreaser-Spray-32oz/184136956139?hash=item2adf6af8eb:g:AhwAAOSwoKFa~KYG

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From the picture on that link I'd say that’s the correct stuff.  It does get rid of lining and decals if you're unlucky so proceed with caution.  However it does get rid of railmatch paints very effectively.  Cheers

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On 10/05/2020 at 20:11, richard w said:

From the picture on that link I'd say that’s the correct stuff.  It does get rid of lining and decals if you're unlucky so proceed with caution.  However it does get rid of railmatch paints very effectively.  Cheers

 

Bottle duly purchased, before I start please may I clarify a couple of points?.

 

I am assuming that you use the Totally Awesome neat, un-diluted but before I melt some rolling stock, I would appreciate your confirmation.

 

When washing the Totally Awesome off of the locos in your Youtube video you use an old paint brush. What, if any, liquid do you use? just clean water?

 

Thanks again for you advice

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I use water to wash it off and used it neat for the paint removal process.  Theres no danger of melting stuff with it from my experience.  Its far less potent than paint stripper or IPA.  Just happens to be very good at removing railmatch for some reason.  

 

Tried it most recently on a Heljan 58.  Removed all the lacquer and weathering I'd applied years ago.  Factory paint and transfers where unmarked and returned the model to an as new finish.

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Brilliant Rich, love the scrapyard detail bonnet up seeing engine, smashed up cars etc. Also I must of missed before you got your Granada in it being rescued by you!
one thing are those industrial windows your making? Need some of those if so what was the process to make them?

 Cheers 

Edited by AdeMoore
Forgot to ask about Windows in original post
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11 hours ago, richard w said:

I use water to wash it off and used it neat for the paint removal process.  Theres no danger of melting stuff with it from my experience.  Its far less potent than paint stripper or IPA.  Just happens to be very good at removing railmatch for some reason.  

 

Tried it most recently on a Heljan 58.  Removed all the lacquer and weathering I'd applied years ago.  Factory paint and transfers where unmarked and returned the model to an as new finish.

 

Very grateful for your further guidance. I shall be starting off with some heavily weathered coaches later today; fingers crossed!

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9 hours ago, AdeMoore said:

one thing are those industrial windows your making? Need some of those if so what was the process to make them?

 

I make the windows using a silhouette cutter.  Invested in the machine last year and use it to cut all my windows and walls.  Saves a lot of time and gains a level of precision I couldn't hope to reach by hand.

 

I use a cricut branded machine which you can find in hobbycraft.  Cheers

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10 hours ago, AdeMoore said:


one thing are those industrial windows your making? Need some of those if so what was the process to make them?

 

 

45 minutes ago, richard w said:

 

I make the windows using a silhouette cutter.  Invested in the machine last year and use it to cut all my windows and walls.  Saves a lot of time and gains a level of precision I couldn't hope to reach by hand.

 

I use a cricut branded machine which you can find in hobbycraft.  Cheers

 

Ade, if you don't want to invest in a sihouette cutter (although I can highly recommend getting one) you can make big industrial windows by hand fairly easily. See here on my Cawdor thread:

 

 

Al.

 

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Photgraphic evidence of how effective Richard's method of de-weathering as detailed in one of his Youtube videos is. I can't tell you what paint it was that was removed but I am delighted with the results. The coaches were left in neat LA cleaning solution for around 20 minutes and cleaned up a treat using cold water and a light brushing with an old tootbrush. The only residual issue comes from my foolish use of a fibreglass pencil to remove the original numbers. Otherwise the coaches look virtually new again. 

 

Thanks again Richard

 

Before

2042001679_165020024.JPG.9083b645953ca95c41bd473c763f905e.JPG Part cleaned 

776581996_165020025.JPG.efe96b110f8a5992a850161b7c288f84.JPG

Finished article, even one of the old numbers remained in place.

849159481_165020028.JPG.4abe9b72cbf16bd7eb79a693be953f6e.JPG

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7 hours ago, richard w said:

 

I make the windows using a silhouette cutter.  Invested in the machine last year and use it to cut all my windows and walls.  Saves a lot of time and gains a level of precision I couldn't hope to reach by hand.

 

I use a cricut branded machine which you can find in hobbycraft.  Cheers

 

6 hours ago, Alister_G said:

 

 

Ade, if you don't want to invest in a sihouette cutter (although I can highly recommend getting one) you can make big industrial windows by hand fairly easily. See here on my Cawdor thread:

 

 

Al.

 

Cheers Rich and Al I’ll take a look on your thread Al see how you did it.

Thanks for the replies.

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Hello Richard, I have been watching your Everard Junction videos for some time now and always find them informative and inspirational but never commented before.   More recently I found your branch line scenery stunning and looking forward to seeing your next video which may show your scrap yard which looks like another great scene with lots of interest.

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I'd have to agree with previous comments about the scenery. It's magnificent! 

 

I've also watched the video and I appreciate how you've simplified and demistified the various processes. I almost feel like having a go myself. Just need to build a layout first!! 

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Hi Richard, 

 

The new 'lot' / industrial space looks much better. Can I ask what you are using as the main layers of your industrial units? Looks like it's thin MDF or very very thick card?

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22 hours ago, maq1988 said:

Can I ask what you are using as the main layers of your industrial units?

 

I use 2mm art board which is basically 2mm cardboard but of higher quality.  Easy to use and saves having to venture into the world of laser cutting, cheers.

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On 18/05/2020 at 19:13, richard w said:

 

I use 2mm art board which is basically 2mm cardboard but of higher quality.  Easy to use and saves having to venture into the world of laser cutting, cheers.

 

Thanks for the info, the cuts look really clean. Does the 2mm art board go through your silhouette cutter or was it all done by hand?

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Nothing quite beats sitting down in the lounge and watching the latest Everard Junction update with a brew or a pint. 

 

Always makes for a very enjoyable watch, and has been a massive inspiration for my current loft build which is still in baseboard construction stage. 

 

Thank you very much Richard for the time and effort you not only put into your amazing layouts (incl your previous build), but also the videos. They're a pleasure to watch. 

 

24785357_1614614761929823_9055263112352399949_o.jpg.66019c85fdec24a54ff522d46fb61fb0.jpg

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Hi, Very early stages of construction. It is in the loft and the overall dimensions are 5.4m x 3.4m.

 

The main 4-track running is based on the line from Waterloo down through Raynes Park, to just before Malden, where the line to Teddington and beyond becomes 2-track.

 

The narrow gauge line is based on Arnolds Sands 2ft gauge sandpit that used to run sand trucks into the Leighton Buzzard mainline station. The Arnolds Sands line today is a very popular tourist line.

 

The era is post-war up to around 1980, so the steam is really 'preserved', and the rest is a real mixture, as I am not into very high levels of prototypical authenticity (yet), and but may find I will be once the track starts being laid and locos running! I don't want to deliberately mix/muddle loco and rolling stock eras, but may end up doing so by accident or lack of knowledge.

 

The attached file shows the plan that I have created in AnyRail and is focused towards the Southern Region, which is where as a child I used to go by train from Teddington to Raynes Park as part of my journey to school from the age of 8. After ~11 years old I started to cycle as well.

 

With the exception of the OO9 narrow gauge, which is DC, all the rest is DCC, using a Roco Z21 controller and iPad plus iPhones. With a simple test loop all works very well, but once I start wiring up track and points, and then start looking at signalling, I'm sure that 'simple' will disappear!

 

Best regards,

Richard

Layout v18.pdf

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Hi Richard.

Been a fan of your videos and layout since... I can't even remember.

Your videos and layout made me scrap all the american and Portuguese stuff, a do a british layout! Finally!

 

Keep up the inspiring job! Looking forward to see your next update!
 

Best wishes!

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