Everard Junction - 88 to 90 - BR Western Region

[MisterT]

Hi Richard,

Great looking layout I am especially impressed by your use of the Cricut Maker ... could I ask you a few questions?

- What thickness card do you use for your building shells?

- Which blade are you using to cut the main card shells for your buildings out of thick card - would it be the "Deep Point Blade" or the "Knife Blade"?

- What is the actual width of the cuts made by these blades?

- And how closely can you space the cuts?

 

I'm working in 2mm scale, and I plan on making a lot of buildings, and I'm weighing up whether to buy one of these machines.

I'm guessing it should be fine for cutting the basic building card shells and window/door openings.

But I'm not sure whether it would be possible to cut window frames/glazing bars in 2mm scale? (Probably I may need to get windows etched.)

I'd be interested in any thoughts you have based on your experience of using the machine.

 

Thanks,

Ed

 

 

[DavidBird]

Hi Richard.

I'm rather late to your youtube channel and this thread, but I'll add my compliments to all the others.  Inspiring stuff indeed.

Watching your latest ( 15th August 2021) update video, you talk about the curve on the branch line and the off-scene return loop. This is worked by a turnout with the spring removed so it can be trailed through and a polarity switch unit to give completely automatic operation.

Do you find any problems with the turnout blades positivley locating - or not - against the stock rail after being trailed through?

Cheers

 

[380John]

24 minutes ago, DavidBird said:

Hi Richard.

I'm rather late to your youtube channel and this thread, but I'll add my compliments to all the others.  Inspiring stuff indeed.

Watching your latest ( 15th August 2021) update video, you talk about the curve on the branch line and the off-scene return loop. This is worked by a turnout with the spring removed so it can be trailed through and a polarity switch unit to give completely automatic operation.

Do you find any problems with the turnout blades positivley locating - or not - against the stock rail after being trailed through?

Cheers

 

Hi David, 

 

I have done the same with mine. When connecting the point motor (I use cobalt digital ID) just ensure that the point blades are central to the turnout when the throwing arm is inserted into the small hole between the blades. That way when the switch is thrown the blades will touch fully one way or the other. For accuracy, the cobalt ID at least has a slider on it where the position of the arm can be adjusted allowing for accuracy when the blades are moved one way or the other.

 

Hope this makes sense! 

 

John 

[richard w]

On 21/08/2021 at 09:31, DavidBird said:

Hi Richard.

I'm rather late to your youtube channel and this thread, but I'll add my compliments to all the others.  Inspiring stuff indeed.

Watching your latest ( 15th August 2021) update video, you talk about the curve on the branch line and the off-scene return loop. This is worked by a turnout with the spring removed so it can be trailed through and a polarity switch unit to give completely automatic operation.

Do you find any problems with the turnout blades positivley locating - or not - against the stock rail after being trailed through?

Cheers

 

 

So far I've not had any issues with the point.  Once a train passes over it remains switched in that direction. As such trains will switch direction on the loop with each 'lap' of the branch line.  Polarity is handled by a Lenz reverse loop module which is solid state.  The points requires no switch or motor as a result so are free to swing in whatever direction the train is approaching from.  

[richard w]

On 09/08/2021 at 11:01, MisterT said:

Hi Richard,

Great looking layout I am especially impressed by your use of the Cricut Maker ... could I ask you a few questions?

- What thickness card do you use for your building shells?

- Which blade are you using to cut the main card shells for your buildings out of thick card - would it be the "Deep Point Blade" or the "Knife Blade"?

- What is the actual width of the cuts made by these blades?

- And how closely can you space the cuts?

 

I'm working in 2mm scale, and I plan on making a lot of buildings, and I'm weighing up whether to buy one of these machines.

I'm guessing it should be fine for cutting the basic building card shells and window/door openings.

But I'm not sure whether it would be possible to cut window frames/glazing bars in 2mm scale? (Probably I may need to get windows etched.)

I'd be interested in any thoughts you have based on your experience of using the machine.

 

Thanks,

Ed

 

 

 

I've done quite a bit or trial and error with the cutter over the past 18 months.  Generally speaking it is surprisingly accurate for what is it. 

• The card I use is 2mm thick.  The addition of location tabs during the cad can make for some very precise and strong building shells.
• I use the knife blade for most tasks with the fine point blade being useful for cutting complex items from plasticard such as windows.
• The width of the cuts appears to be about the same as what you'd achieve with a traditional modelling knife and straight edge.
• Lowest spacing I've done is 0.25mm for some window frames which seems to be the limit. 

Some of the window frames will fail during the cutting process as the material can loose its grip on the cutting mat.  Thicker materials like card require 4mm or greater between cuts as such thin strips can cause the material to delaminate in the machine.  Some tasks still require traditional tools and methods.

 

I use the machine mostly for repeatability of boring tasks such as windows and pasticard sections in plain or brick.  It can be a very helpful bit of kit and save considerable time on a project.  However like everything it can take a few months to figure out what it can and can't do.  For N gauge that will be more of a challenge.  Good luck!

 

[richard w]

Been a while since the last update.  I've been busy making some changes to the branch line.  Previously I did some scenery to this area and ran the track round the back of the layout out of sight.  I was never completely happy with it but it served as a good start and allowed me to come up with some better ideas.

 

So with those ideas in mind I removed the terrain, branch line curve and started again.  This time I was able to create a much smoother curve for the line.  I also ballasted and weathered it before fixing the section to the layout.  Now when you look under the bridge the ballast and detail continues right through.  The same applied for the bridge which I rebuilt taking lessons and ideas from the original attempt.

 

 

After quite a bit of testing I started the scenery.  Much happier with this now, the trains run much better than before and the bridge is a vast improvement over the old one.  The line runs off scene into a reverse loop.  A lenz BM1 fitted back at the station allows for automatic running of the branch with realistic braking, acceleration and stopping time in the station platform.

 

 

Another project off the bench was this Bachmann 101.  I've painted into NSE and added weathering and passenger figures.

 

 

A new arrival in the form of this sector 47.  I've weathered it and repainted the driver as I do with most of my 47s.

 

 

The train its pulling has also received similar treatment making sure to rub off the weathering around the handbrake wheels and data panels.

 

 

Another job was to tone down the weathering on my class 60 to better reflect the condition they were in in 1990/91.  I've also fitted a driver.

 

 

A much bigger job concerned the TEAs behind it.  These have been stripped back to fresh models and re-weathered.  First time using oil paints and it was quite good fun getting the effects right.  I've also added the weld lines with a pencil.

 

 

I've also been cleaning up weathering on various items of stock to better reflect the era.  Also added many passenger figures and drivers along the way.  Now I have a functional branch line many of the DMUs on the layout are finally getting the attention and use they deserve.  

 

 

Lots and lots left to do but I'm having great fun.  Particularly enjoy revisiting stuff and improving it.  Cheers

 

 

[AdeMoore]

Brilliant stuff Richard can sense your own personal satisfaction with the branch, looks very good enjoyed the video.

Cheers

Ade

[MisterT]

Hi Richard,

 

Thanks for replying about the Cricut questions; what you've said all sounds pretty positive and encouraging.

Can I please ask you another couple of things?

- What is the smallest diameter circle you have managed to successfully cut in paper or thin card? (I'm thinking about how to cut a few "layers" and then align them using (small) drills or rods through alignment holes.)

 

Also, how have you got on with the software - Cricut Design Space? Do you just design your buildings, windows etc. in some other software, and then import into Design Space?

And I'm a bit confused about some of the things I've read:

- Is the Design Space installed on your own PC, or is it on the web?

- Do you have to pay anything to upload and cut your own images, or is it all free? I've read something about being restricted to 20 uploads per month unless you subscribe to Cricut Access?

- It looks like you have to log into Design Space with a userid and password? Which means that it may not be possible to buy a Cricut maker second-hand? I may have to buy a new one so that I can register a userid?

 

Thanks again for your help,

Ed

 

[richard w]

49 minutes ago, MisterT said:

Hi Richard,

 

Thanks for replying about the Cricut questions; what you've said all sounds pretty positive and encouraging.

Can I please ask you another couple of things?

- What is the smallest diameter circle you have managed to successfully cut in paper or thin card? (I'm thinking about how to cut a few "layers" and then align them using (small) drills or rods through alignment holes.)

 

Also, how have you got on with the software - Cricut Design Space? Do you just design your buildings, windows etc. in some other software, and then import into Design Space?

And I'm a bit confused about some of the things I've read:

- Is the Design Space installed on your own PC, or is it on the web?

- Do you have to pay anything to upload and cut your own images, or is it all free? I've read something about being restricted to 20 uploads per month unless you subscribe to Cricut Access?

- It looks like you have to log into Design Space with a userid and password? Which means that it may not be possible to buy a Cricut maker second-hand? I may have to buy a new one so that I can register a userid?

 

Thanks again for your help,

Ed

 

 

• I've not cut very many circles but the machine should be able to do small ones no problem. 
• Cricut design space is free and I've not encountered any financial restrictions with it.
• Its web based but there is a desktop application for it.  Your designs are saved in the cloud.
• Its uses its own file format.  I'm not aware of being able to import or export drawings from it.
• It requires a user account of course but your machine is not tied to said account.  It simply looks for the type of circut machine you've selected when you tell it to cut a job.

Hope that helps, cheers

[MisterT]

1 hour ago, richard w said:

 

• I've not cut very many circles but the machine should be able to do small ones no problem. 
• Cricut design space is free and I've not encountered any financial restrictions with it.
• Its web based but there is a desktop application for it.  Your designs are saved in the cloud.
• Its uses its own file format.  I'm not aware of being able to import or export drawings from it.
• It requires a user account of course but your machine is not tied to said account.  It simply looks for the type of circut machine you've selected when you tell it to cut a job.

Hope that helps, cheers

Hi Richard,

Thanks for your reply, that makes things clearer.

I've just created an account, and downloaded design space, and had a quick play. It looks like you can import different file types (including svg or dxf) so I'll have to give that a go and see how well that works.

I'm thinking of buying a machine this autumn, I'll let you know how it goes.

 

Thanks again for your help,

Ed

 

[Phil Himsworth]

That is a fantastic photo of the 47 in the post above and in the YouTube preview picture thing. I've only just got back into model railways in the last year or so and your channel has been a massive inspiration for it all.

[richard w]

Been fitting some EOT Lamps over the past few weeks.  I'm using the DCC Concepts ones and have fitted about 6 so far.  Quite a fiddle to do but I'm pleased with the results. 

 

Managed to hide the circuit in the toilet of the coaches.  Some of the wagons proved a little more challenging.

 

 

 

[billywhizz]

Hi Richard. 
just watched your latest video on fitting the tail lamps. Think you have just given me the answer to current collection on my Bachmann DBSO’s which are being converted to P4. I did try the DCC concepts wiper pick ups, but as you also found, they do create a lot of rolling resistance. Will be ordering a set of pick up springs tomorrow! Really enjoying the videos. Have to say the branch does now look much better with the curve “relaxed”

looking forward to future videos and seeing the station area develop further. 
Cheers. 
Bill. 

[richard w]

Busy as usual.  I've been working on building a farm bridge at the far end of the layout to form a scenic break and better hide the fiddle yard.

 

It's made from Wills girders and Wills brick plasticard.  All painted with various Humbrol and Vallejo colours.

 

 

Built up the scenery around the bridge a little bit and while it's far from finished I'm quite happy with the effect so far.  The muddy road was achieved using sculptamold and running a vehicle through it while it was still wet.

 

 

Further up the line I've started another scratch build which will form a back row of semi detached houses.  

 

 

I'm using the same design for each house and will add some individual details to each one after the main build is complete. 

 

 

I'll be adding gardens eventually to better tie the scene into the railway.  Going to take a while before I get that far but I'm pleased with the scenes so far.  This area was crying out for some buildings.

 

[JackB95]

Yet another awe-inspiring update from yourself Rich. I'm truly inspired by the work you do. I think we should get a bingo card for each episode of your layout. Things like "sculpt mould" "takes apart something already built" would certainly be a regular winner 

[Rockalaucher101]

Hey Richard, those gaps between the houses are crying out for some prefab style concrete garages. Would mean there's more of a block barrier between the sides of the houses and the backscene. Something like this maybe?

Lots of varaiation as well, pitched roof, flat roof, some longer than others, some pebbledash render, exposed concrete... Worth a thought.

[woodenhead]

10 minutes ago, Rockalaucher101 said:

Hey Richard, those gaps between the houses are crying out for some prefab style concrete garages. Would mean there's more of a block barrier between the sides of the houses and the backscene. Something like this maybe?

Lots of varaiation as well, pitched roof, flat roof, some longer than others, some pebbledash render, exposed concrete... Worth a thought.

Those houses look too recent for concrete pre fab garages, probably brick ones.  However, the houses are low relief, the garages would be detached and at the back so would have to be drawn on the back scene or very flat relief.

[Rockalaucher101]

28 minutes ago, woodenhead said:

Those houses look too recent for concrete pre fab garages, probably brick ones.  However, the houses are low relief, the garages would be detached and at the back so would have to be drawn on the back scene or very flat relief.

I dunno about that... The first house my parents moved into before I was born back in the 90's had a row of prefab garages built between em, and that house was a new build. I get what you're saying about the low relief though. Could have the option of having some with the back wall of the garage flush with the house, maybe a path down the side for access to the garden. Or maybe some could even have a gravel or slab driveway leading down the garden with the back of the garage butting up to the railway boundary.

[Mitche01]

Love the updates!

 

Was browsing Ebay looking for some scenary parts to start building my new layout and found these skips, which may look great in your scrapyard.

 

  

https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/11006324058  <- Link here

 

Edited November 4, 2021 by Mitche01
removed duplicate pic

[richard w]

On 04/11/2021 at 12:49, Mitche01 said:

Was browsing Ebay looking for some scenary parts to start building my new layout and found these skips, which may look great in your scrapyard.

 

I have some of those in the yard.  Very effective, just hard to see with all the other bits going on.

 

[richard w]

On 01/11/2021 at 13:24, Rockalaucher101 said:

Hey Richard, those gaps between the houses are crying out for some prefab style concrete garages. Would mean there's more of a block barrier between the sides of the houses and the backscene. Something like this maybe?

 

I've designed those houses to take garages in between to help hide the backscene.  I'm basing them loosely off these houses in Reading.  Wil be working more on that area in the coming months.

 

 

 

[STATO]

Many houses of that age and design may not have had garages initially, so there is quite a scope for variety in detail. Not to mention the inevitable above garage extension with (leaking) flat roof.  I know of some that look like that who never had a garage built and retain access to the rear garden, perhaps even with a dilapidated prefab garage against the back fence and some rubbish thrown over onto the railway embankment 

Edited November 30, 2021 by STATO

[St. Simon]

On 18/11/2021 at 20:48, richard w said:

 

I've designed those houses to take garages in between to help hide the backscene.  I'm basing them loosely off these houses in Reading.  Wil be working more on that area in the coming months.

 

 

 

 

Hi,

 

Those houses are in Tilehurst, Oxford Road to be exact, I walk past when I'm going shopping, just behind you is the GWML.

 

I love the models though, just right!

 

Simon

 

Simon

[The Stationmaster]

7 hours ago, St. Simon said:

 

Hi,

 

Those houses are in Tilehurst, Oxford Road to be exact, I walk past when I'm going shopping, just behind you is the GWML.

 

I love the models though, just right!

 

Simon

 

Simon

Sorry Simon it is a bit more complicated than the that.  In local Govt terms they are in Reading although in part of the suburb of Tilehurst.  But it is in the Kentwood electoral ward and n ecclesiastical terms it is in the parish of Tilehurst St Mary Magdalen - one of the three parishes that cover Tilehurst.  And not all of Tilehurst is in Reading because the area known as Tilehurst Without is in West Berkshire.  So you can live in the suburb of Tilehurst but not in Reading and you can live in the suburb of Tilehurst but not in the Tilehurst electoral ward.

 

Anyway such niceties apart the houses are absolutely typical of a style constructed in the Reading area between the 1930s (possibly a bit earlier?) and the 1950s and equally so in various parts of the London area and the Home Counties so they would definitely give Everard Jcn a suitable 'feel' in terms of location.

[St. Simon]

1 minute ago, The Stationmaster said:

Sorry Simon it is a bit more complicated than the that.  In local Govt terms they are in Reading although in part of the suburb of Tilehurst.  But it is in the Kentwood electoral ward and n ecclesiastical terms it is in the parish of Tilehurst St Mary Magdalen - one of the three parishes that cover Tilehurst.  And not all of Tilehurst is in Reading because the area known as Tilehurst Without is in West Berkshire.  So you can live in the suburb of Tilehurst but not in Reading and you can live in the suburb of Tilehurst but not in the Tilehurst electoral ward.

 

Anyway such niceties apart the houses are absolutely typical of a style constructed in the Reading area between the 1930s (possibly a bit earlier?) and the 1950s and equally so in various parts of the London area and the Home Counties so they would definitely give Everard Jcn a suitable 'feel' in terms of location.

Close enough  

 

Simon