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Everard Junction - 88 to 90 - BR Western Region


richard w
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Thanks.  Its good to be back up and running again.  I've been reading through your Oak Road thread over the last few days and I must say its very impressive.  I'll have a picture of your platforms to hand when I start building mine!

 

I'm not sure you need to be taking any advice from me!

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Thought you may want to see this Everard, a crowd funded DJM APT project which is now taking pre-orders, multiple versions available both with yellow and black window variants. Just get everyone to place an order so we can get this beauty in real life! Cheers, Rory.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I stopped using it because most of the flux out there is corrosive.  I was finding green corrosion on various wires and joints where I'd used flux.  In some cases the corrosion stopped things from working. 

 

I've since learnt to solder without it and haven't had any problems.  

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I have watched your YouTube video of the track laying with much interest. Your trackwork is very neat and tidy. I hope that I am wrong, but I think you do have a chance of collision on tracks 4 and 5, 8 and 9, 11 and 12. This would occur if you had a train leaving the fiddle yard and another entering on the next track at the same time. I hope that I am wrong but there is a high risk if you are working with less that 16mm (4ft in actual size) between the tracks.

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Well spotted, I've done that deliberately to maximise storage in the yard.  If I’m running a train on track 4 the one on track 5 will remain parked up & so on.  If I use all lines as through lines then the clearance will need to be bigger meaning I'd have to remove 2 sidings.

Each siding will also have limits marks added to make sure nothing gets parked in the limited clearance zone.

 

I had a similar problem on the old layout but was happy to live it as opposed to losing valuable storage space.

 

I'm also looking into automatic block signalling for the new layout.  If I can get that working then running anything from the yard is possible by the use of signalling to protect areas of limited clearance.

 

Cheers.

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Hi Richard, great progress and dedication to put the time in to video it all. You are an inspiration.

 

I have not had time to watch the latest video but I have also noticed that when I soldered the droppers to the track they need cleaning every other week. I didn’t make the connection before but I expect you are right it is likely to be the flux I am not sure if the track is nickel plated? Most modern solder is prefixed so there is not as much need for it.

 

Keep up the great work

 

Nick

 

I stopped using it because most of the flux out there is corrosive. I was finding green corrosion on various wires and joints where I'd used flux. In some cases the corrosion stopped things from working.

 

I've since learnt to solder without it and haven't had any problems.

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I've been busy again!  Finished laying the fiddle yard today and I'm relieved its done as it took me ages.  Track is on a base of 4mm cork and its all the old code 100 from the old layout.  As usual I've filmed it all so feel free to check it out...

 

attachicon.gif20171224_153400.jpgattachicon.gif20171224_153423.jpg

 

 

Have an excellent Christmas and I hope like me you'll get some time to work on your layout over to coming days.

 

Cheers

 

That's a lot of fiddle yard :O

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I stopped using it because most of the flux out there is corrosive.  I was finding green corrosion on various wires and joints where I'd used flux.  In some cases the corrosion stopped things from working. 

 

I've since learnt to solder without it and haven't had any problems.

 

I presume you mean you are just relying on the Rosin flux in the solder , it's almost impossible to solder without any flux at all

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I'm also looking into automatic block signalling for the new layout.  If I can get that working then running anything from the yard is possible by the use of signalling to protect areas of limited clearance.

 

Hi,

 

To control something like a fiddle yard to protect conflicts, you'll need a full interlocking really, which will both be complex and expensive (particularly if you want proper signals). I would stick to just a watch full eye.

 

I tend to say to people that only signal the scenic bit of the layout, it'll be easier, if you want help, I can always have a look, and don't bother with the fiddle yard signalling. Particularly as you seem to be the only operator regularly, it makes it a lot easier. You could devise a system to show which lines can be moved and which can't, short of a full interlocking.

 

Simon

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  • 1 month later...

I've been busy again! Finished laying the fiddle yard today and I'm relieved its done as it took me ages. Track is on a base of 4mm cork and its all the old code 100 from the old layout. As usual I've filmed it all so feel free to check it out...

 

20171224_153400.jpg 20171224_153423.jpg

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sQE_l2NA40g

 

Have an excellent Christmas and I hope like me you'll get some time to work on your layout over to coming days.

 

Cheers

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Hi Richard. First let me say well done. Been dipping into your videos for the last twelve months, since I decided to come back to Model Railways after many many years. I've a question for you which you may be able to answer from your experience. And for other subscribers to comment too of course. All welcome!

My present position is that I've set up the baseboard, now due to fix cork underlay all over. I bought 1.5mm cork. Following this I will lay 2.5mm cork for actual track base. However....

Am completely bemused about which glue to use. Reasearch indicates PVA is good but since hardens when dry, will actually transmit motor noise to boards, not deaden sound. Copydex or other latex glue although good for sound, binds drill bits and would tear, besides the frustration of binding.

Happy to hear which you or anyone here thinks best.

Many thanks in advance,all.

Adrian

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  • 3 weeks later...

I wouldn't get too concerned about what glue to use.  If you intend on ballasting the track then the glued ballast will transfer noise to the baseboards regardless of what measures you have taken with the cork underlay.  I've been using copydex to fix my cork and track down as it allows for removal in case I make a mistake.  Hope that helps.

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Bit of a slow start so far this year, busy at work and various other things.  I have however managed to complete the deck for the track and have started laying the track itself.  As usual its covered in much greater detail in the latest video...

 

 

Cheers

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Hi Richard,

 

I think the new layout is looking fantastic, and it takes me back to my childhood when my Dad took me to the local model railway club they had a fixed layout in the club house that ran around the eaves and basically it was a big double loop with 1 station an a branch that dropped to a lower level and I just loved the trains running uninterrupted. I cant wait to see how you progress

 

Thanks for keeping us inspired

 

Nick

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Looking good, I may have missed it in the video but does the branch line have it's own fiddle yard at one end? It doesn't look like it rises back up in time to join up with the existing one.

 

Must say your woodworking is miles ahead of anything I've achieved and the open baseboard frame advantages for multiple levels will pay off.

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I wouldn't get too concerned about what glue to use. If you intend on ballasting the track then the glued ballast will transfer noise to the baseboards regardless of what measures you have taken with the cork underlay. I've been using copydex to fix my cork and track down as it allows for removal in case I make a mistake. Hope that helps.

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