PowerCab problem with thumbwheel

[Mike Riley]

About 6 months ago the thumbwheel on the Powercab started behaving erratically.  I contacted NCE and Larry replied that the encoder needed replacing and I should send the Powercab to them.  I suggested that It would save time and postage if he sent me a new encoder to which he agreed.  It never came and after several reminders and promises from NEC I now have an email from Ed Wilson saying that it is not company policy to sell spare parts and for any repair the item must be returned to NEC.  Current turn around time is 4 weeks.  Plus a week in the post each way from the uK.

 

So yesterday I went to Google and put in rotary encoder and the part number on the old one.  Several hits and I chose one almost at random.  RS Components offered one for 2.21 plus VAT and postage.  It came today and I fitted it (initially without solder just in case) and it works fine.

 

As a by-product of my corrrespondence with NCE they did send me an EPROM upgrade though.

 

I've posted this in case anyone else has the same problem.  The part code is 3315C-001-006L.

 

It took me less time to fit the encoder than I would have spent in the queue at the post office sending a parcel to the US.  Not to mention 6 weeks.

 

Mike

 

 

[DIRTY DIESEL]

Hi Mike,

My thumb wheel has started playing up also, when I scroll either up or down it will jump up or down at different speeds so when I'm thinking I'm slowing down it is now speeding up then back down again.

I can now only use the speed buttons and was thinking or buying a new hand set.

 

Before I do I might try what you have done, how did you detach the part from the handset as when the last time I took the back off to try and fix the problem I could not work out if it was soldered in or push fit, I managed to get the wheel off ok but did not what to break the part you have mention & did not know that might be the problem part at the time

Thanks

Stu

[Stevelewis]

Hi Mike,

My thumb wheel has started playing up also, when I scroll either up or down it will jump up or down at different speeds so when I'm thinking I'm slowing down it is now speeding up then back down again.

I can now only use the speed buttons and was thinking or buying a new hand set.

 

Before I do I might try what you have done, how did you detach the part from the handset as when the last time I took the back off to try and fix the problem I could not work out if it was soldered in or push fit, I managed to get the wheel off ok but did not what to break the part you have mention & did not know that might be the problem part at the time

Thanks

Stu

Interesting  posts,  one  of  my MRTC (Gaugemaster) hand  helds  is  behaving in the  same  way, so presumably  it  may be  the  same  fault  I must  get around  to contacting gaugemaster.

[Izzy]

Interesting  posts,  one  of  my MRTC (Gaugemaster) hand  helds  is  behaving in the  same  way, so presumably  it  may be  the  same  fault  I must  get around  to contacting gaugemaster.

Had mine replaced just a few weeks ago by Gaugemaster. Cost £15 inc post. Back in a few days, so first class service as per usual.

 

Izzy

[Crosland]

The volume control on my previous car (a rotary encoder, rather than a pot) was sometimes like that

 

Andrew

[RedgateModels]

I have a couple of spares given to me by John of Bromsgrove Models before he retired - one to replace the broken one on my handset, the other as a spare. In the end all I needed to do was cyano the wheel back onto the existing encoder shaft. But should it ever fail again I have spares to fix the handset even at a show

[Mike Riley]

Hi Mike,

My thumb wheel has started playing up also, when I scroll either up or down it will jump up or down at different speeds so when I'm thinking I'm slowing down it is now speeding up then back down again.

I can now only use the speed buttons and was thinking or buying a new hand set.

 

Before I do I might try what you have done, how did you detach the part from the handset as when the last time I took the back off to try and fix the problem I could not work out if it was soldered in or push fit, I managed to get the wheel off ok but did not what to break the part you have mention & did not know that might be the problem part at the time

Thanks

Stu

Hi Stu,

 

The encoder has 3 pins that are soldered to the board.  I thought they might be a push fit and tried to lever it out - until they broke.  No problem - I could then grab the residual ends one by one and apply a soldering iron to get them out.  I then drilled out the holes - IIRC 0.6mm is about right for the new encoder.

 

The alternative is to pull on the encoder while applying 3 irons to the back of the board.  Two people at least or an octopus.  I'd be interested to know how the profesionals deal with this.

 

By the way, the behaviour of yours is exactly the same as I had.

 

And there is  no need to glue the wheel to the encoder shaft.

 

Mike

[smokebox]

Hi Stu,

 

  I'd be interested to know how the profesionals deal with this.

 

Mike

They'd use a solder sucker or desoldering braid, or if well equipped, a desoldering station - basically a soldering iron with a hollow bit connected to a vacuum pump to suck up the melted solder.

 

Solder sucker

Desoldering braid

Desoldering station

Edited July 25, 2014 by smokebox

[Nigelcliffe]

The alternative is to pull on the encoder while applying 3 irons to the back of the board.  Two people at least or an octopus.  I'd be interested to know how the profesionals deal with this.

And, if lacking a professional de-soldering devices (or even a hobby one) as described by Smokebox, remove the bulk of solder with braid (if pushed for an emergency job which can't wait for a shopping delivery, make your own with multi-strand wire and a bit of flux), and then apply heat to pin, gently lever that side up, move to next pin, and lever again, third pin, lever, back to first, lever again, and eventually you'll remove it.

 

 

- Nigel

[Norm81]

And, if lacking a professional de-soldering devices (or even a hobby one) as described by Smokebox, remove the bulk of solder with braid (if pushed for an emergency job which can't wait for a shopping delivery, make your own with multi-strand wire and a bit of flux), and then apply heat to pin, gently lever that side up, move to next pin, and lever again, third pin, lever, back to first, lever again, and eventually you'll remove it.- Nigel

Sometimes it works best if you put more solder on, then reflow each pin in turn going round and round them slowly edging them up one at a time. Something like a helping hands stand is required to keep the item still while you have the iron in one hand and levering tool in the other. The extra solder makes it easier to wet each joint and as long as you go round reasonably quickly each time you go back to it the joint holds more and more heat.

[Izzy]

I have to say that I am not impressed with the short life span/unreliability of these encoders compared to pots, and don't much fancy having to replace them every few years. Does anyone know, is this down to component quality or just the basic nature of the part ?

 

Izzy

[RedgateModels]

 

And there is  no need to glue the wheel to the encoder shaft

 

I'm sorry, I was not aware that you had a detailed knowledge of my Powercab and it's history of repairs 

[arff999]

digitrains can replace this part if needed

[DIRTY DIESEL]

Hi Stu,

 

The encoder has 3 pins that are soldered to the board.  I thought they might be a push fit and tried to lever it out - until they broke.  No problem - I could then grab the residual ends one by one and apply a soldering iron to get them out.  I then drilled out the holes - IIRC 0.6mm is about right for the new encoder.

 

The alternative is to pull on the encoder while applying 3 irons to the back of the board.  Two people at least or an octopus.  I'd be interested to know how the profesionals deal with this.

 

By the way, the behaviour of yours is exactly the same as I had.

 

And there is  no need to glue the wheel to the encoder shaft.

 

Mike

 

Thanks Mike & to the other posters, might ring Digitrains and see what they say before I try my own mod.

cheers

Stu

[DIRTY DIESEL]

digitrains can replace this part if needed

 

I rang Digitrains and sent my two controllers on Monday this week, by Wednesday they had replaced both faulty encoders & sent both controllers back to me!!!

price was £10 per encoder plus postage, great service

 

Stu  

[DAVE1562]

About 6 months ago the thumbwheel on the Powercab started behaving erratically.  I contacted NCE and Larry replied that the encoder needed replacing and I should send the Powercab to them.  I suggested that It would save time and postage if he sent me a new encoder to which he agreed.  It never came and after several reminders and promises from NEC I now have an email from Ed Wilson saying that it is not company policy to sell spare parts and for any repair the item must be returned to NEC.  Current turn around time is 4 weeks.  Plus a week in the post each way from the uK.

 

So yesterday I went to Google and put in rotary encoder and the part number on the old one.  Several hits and I chose one almost at random.  RS Components offered one for 2.21 plus VAT and postage.  It came today and I fitted it (initially without solder just in case) and it works fine.

 

As a by-product of my corrrespondence with NCE they did send me an EPROM upgrade though.

 

I've posted this in case anyone else has the same problem.  The part code is 3315C-001-006L.

 

It took me less time to fit the encoder than I would have spent in the queue at the post office sending a parcel to the US.  Not to mention 6 weeks.

 

Mike

Hi Mike.....thanks for this info... just replaced mine as i have just had the same problem..took 1/2 hour and cost £3.20 from RS Components like you said.. very easy to do and saved me 6 weeks wait....

[F-UnitMad]

A very useful OP, thanks! Just commenting really so I can keep track of this info if ever I need it!!

[dasatcopthorne]

Changed one one a throttle at our Club. Easy peaty.

 

Dave

[F-UnitMad]

On 13/06/2016 at 11:33, F-UnitMad said:

A very useful OP, thanks! Just commenting really so I can keep track of this info if ever I need it!!

Resurrecting a very old thread, but today my NCE Powercab speed wheel started playing up.

The little grey cells vaguely recalled a thread about this on RMweb & hey-presto!!

 

Ordered two encoders from RS Components so I will have a spare. Postage costs more than the parts!!

Belated but grateful thanks to posters here.

[Ray H]

I've changed a couple with encoders from different sources - initially to avoid the RS postage cost.

 

The shaft on the first one was of a slightly smaller diameter than the encoders from RS used on subsequent ones. I overcame this by putting some thick superglue on the shaft and after 24 hours that encoder was then the same push fit as the RS ones.

 

I have had to struggle a bit when removing the original encoder but they've all come apart successfully eventually.

[F-UnitMad]

7 hours ago, Ray H said:

I've changed a couple with encoders from different sources - initially to avoid the RS postage cost

I did look elsewhere such as ebay; although the component price was more expensive on ebay there was free postage available - BUT - although the Part No. matched, the ebay picture showed the 3 pins in a different alignment - the middle one appearing to be on the opposite side of the housing rather than in between the outer pins. I decided not to take the risk.

[highpeakman]

On 02/11/2020 at 09:25, Ray H said:

I've changed a couple with encoders from different sources - initially to avoid the RS postage cost.

 

The shaft on the first one was of a slightly smaller diameter than the encoders from RS used on subsequent ones. I overcame this by putting some thick superglue on the shaft and after 24 hours that encoder was then the same push fit as the RS ones.

 

I have had to struggle a bit when removing the original encoder but they've all come apart successfully eventually.

 

I have just got my encoder from RS and have successfully removed the old one from the board using braid to take most of the solder off and then laying the iron briefly along the line of pins while gently prising the old encoder from the top. Only took a couple of minutes. I then used a suction desoldering tool to clear the solder from the through holes afterwards.

 

The Thumbwheel just pulled easily off the old encoder shaft although not a loose fit. I note that the shaft of the old encoder is not round and has a substantial filed flat edge on it which fits into a "D" hole in the thumbwheel. It means that a flat will have to be filed across the new encoder shaft for it to fit nicely. This doesn't seem to have been mentioned above so not sure if my Powercab is different or if it has not been mentioned/noticed.

Edited November 5, 2020 by highpeakman

[F-UnitMad]

Finally got to change the encoder in my Powercab this evening; lay the soldering iron across all three pins and with a bit of wiggling the old encoder was out in seconds. I drilled out the remaining solder from the holes.

The thumbwheel was just a push fit on the encoder, no 'D' section on mine, but it did have two tiny grub screws on the shaft which grip the encoder, these could be tightened further with a very tiny allen key, if I had one so small, but the fit is good 'as is'.

Fitted the new encoder in place & held the whole ensemble in place with some tape while resoldering the 3 pins to the board. Trimmed the pins down afterwards - job done! I think it's taken longer to type this post about it than it took to do it!!

So glad this thread was here.

[geoffers]

Also appreciate this thread as my new PowerCab from last March developed this encoder issue. Not trusting my soldering skills to do it myself I phoned Digitrains to see if they could repair it. They said yes, send it to us and we will look at it. So I did and they promptly replaced the encoder and posted the unit back to me post-haste. Works fine now so thanks Digitrains.

[dhjgreen]

On 06/11/2020 at 22:26, F-UnitMad said:

I drilled out the remaining solder from the holes.

If, as stated by someone on this topic, the holes are plated through, that is a bit risky.  You could remove a connection which goes from one side of the board to the other.  Admittedly the risk is low, but better safe than sorry, use a solder sucker for preference.