RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted July 30, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 30, 2014 Slow and steady, with a lot of rude words, is the only way I can do soldering! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
81A Oldoak Posted July 30, 2014 Share Posted July 30, 2014 Slow and steady, with a lot of rude words, is the only way I can do soldering! But it is oddly cathartic. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted July 30, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 30, 2014 I think the next step is to make up the connecting rods so that I can use them in the JPL chassis jig to set the locations for the bearings. So far so good.... (Edit: one big observation so far is that the NS is nicer to work with than brass. Heat doesn't appear to travel as far as quickly which means less smoldering fingers!) The professional builders I know all prefer to work with NS. You seemed a little nervous to start but on the progress so far had no need. One query so refered to flilling a screwhead flat how will you stop it turning to fix it or is is just a pivot and will be fixed with a touch of solder? Don 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted July 30, 2014 Share Posted July 30, 2014 (edited) I think the next step is to make up the connecting rods so that I can use them in the JPL chassis jig to set the locations for the bearings. A good thing to do once you have made up the coupling rods is to put both sets on your chassis jig to adjust the axle spacing. They should both slide on smooth and easy, if one set is tight (or worse won't fit on) when the jig is set by the other you have a problem - you must get the spacing of the holes in both sets of rods to match before you use them to set up the axle bearings. But don't panic! With a well made kit this will be automatic but I have encountered rods that didn't agree. I had one set of milled rods that were significantly "out" - the supplier replaced them with apologies. I drill coupling rods so that they will JUST pop onto the jig. This will give the best chance of accurate settings. Once the axle bearings have been soldered into the frames the holes in the rods can be eased a little to give a working clearance. Hope that's some help. Chaz Edited July 30, 2014 by chaz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted July 30, 2014 Share Posted July 30, 2014 Fully agree with Chaz. It is fundamental to match the axle positions to the coupling rods when assembling the hornblocks. Further, you do need to have jointed rods if you have any kind of suspension. I think that on the 1366's the four-coupled pair on the coupling rods are rear and centre, (ie the joint is ahead of the driver crankpin) and the rear axle is fixed in this kit. This means you can fix the centre horns with reference to the fixed axle and test that it all fits /spins freely before jointing the rods, and doing the front axle hornblocks. It might make it easier to manipulate on your assembly jig. I also agree with Chris, there is something very satisfying about the soldering process, always assuming the parts fit and stay in place, the flux works as intended and you don't drip molten solder into your shoe. There are days I wish I had been blessed with at least two more hands, but in general, it does give a mild glow of, well, not pride, but something similar, as the solder freezes "bright". BR Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
puddlejumper Posted July 30, 2014 Share Posted July 30, 2014 I have to agree, there is a real sense of satisfaction when yo complete a joint that's nice and clean and bright........makes all the cock ups fade away (for a little while anyway!!) 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted July 30, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 30, 2014 The professional builders I know all prefer to work with NS. You seemed a little nervous to start but on the progress so far had no need. One query so refered to flilling a screwhead flat how will you stop it turning to fix it or is is just a pivot and will be fixed with a touch of solder? Don The screw acts as a pivot and is soldered (probably a tad more than a touch!) to the frames. The nut on the back makes the beams removable which has been quite useful so far. . 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted July 30, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 30, 2014 A good thing to do once you have made up the coupling rods is to put both sets on your chassis jig to adjust the axle spacing. They should both slide on smooth and easy, if one set is tight (or worse won't fit on) when the jig is set by the other you have a problem - you must get the spacing of the holes in both sets of rods to match before you use them to set up the axle bearings. But don't panic! With a well made kit this will be automatic but I have encountered rods that didn't agree. I had one set of milled rods that were significantly "out" - the supplier replaced them with apologies. I drill coupling rods so that they will JUST pop onto the jig. This will give the best chance of accurate settings. Once the axle bearings have been soldered into the frames the holes in the rods can be eased a little to give a working clearance. Hope that's some help. Chaz Evening Chaz, I've been taking lots of notes from you guys over the past few weeks regarding this next bit as it's making a rolling chassis where I've failed badly previously. The coupling rods were made up by screwing the etches up tight on the extended axles from the JPL jig. Three were fine, one just wouldn't behave and had to be redone twice. Grrr The etches appear to be very accurate and the pairs matched nicely despite my soldering. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted July 30, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 30, 2014 Once the coupling rods were made up I took the front two and used these to set the bearings in the compensation beams. A bit of a faff and more hands needed but got there in the end. You'll note i've added a spacer to the rear of the beam this was to save having to cut down the bearing on the outside of the frames. Once cleaned up the compensation beams were inserted into the main chassis and the axle jigs inserted and coupling rods added to the JPL jig. This enabled me to solder in the fixed rear bearings. Probably not the right order to do things! After a few strong words the chassis looked like this... 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted July 30, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 30, 2014 Having got to this point I couldn't wait to add the wheels... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Siberian Snooper Posted July 30, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 30, 2014 Looking good, slow and steady now will pay big dividends when it comes to getting a good rolling chassis. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted July 30, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 30, 2014 Wheels. The Slaters instructions tell you to insert the bolt from the rear and have the nut hold on the coupling rods. The Agenoria instructions reverse this and tell you to put the bolt in from the outside, add the nut to the rear and then use the heat from the soldering iron to melt the nut into the rear of the wheel. This makes the nut captive and flush with the rear of the wheel. Anyway, i went for the Agenoria option. The wheels and coupling rods were then fitted to the chassis and....it rolled!! A small amount of tweaking and it happily rolled down a slope under gravity. Very, very happy with that result! 13 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indomitable026 Posted July 30, 2014 Share Posted July 30, 2014 Top man! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted July 30, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 30, 2014 Top man! I suspect the quality of the kit was a major contributor to the thing working, but I'm still quite pleased! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indomitable026 Posted July 30, 2014 Share Posted July 30, 2014 I suspect the quality of the kit was a major contributor to the thing working, but I'm still quite pleased! Rubbish, but why should you suffer a poor quality kit? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted July 30, 2014 Share Posted July 30, 2014 Chris I don't want to pee on your bonfire here, but have you got any play between the equalised axles and the frames? it looks from the photos that the frame cut-outs have not been cut out, which is ok if you have opened up the holes in the frames, but otherwise, it will be rigid - which is ok, of course, assuming that's what you are trying to do. Shout up if I can help. Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted July 30, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 30, 2014 Chris I don't want to pee on your bonfire here, but have you got any play between the equalised axles and the frames? it looks from the photos that the frame cut-outs have not been cut out, which is ok if you have opened up the holes in the frames, but otherwise, it will be rigid - which is ok, of course, assuming that's what you are trying to do. Shout up if I can help. Simon Don't worry - the holes have already been opened up in the frames. It's quite enjoyable to watch the chassis articulate over a thin obstruction placed on the rails. The compensation beams appear to work quite well, and independently, after all. It appears I've not taken a photo of the frames after the holes were opened up - will sort that out tomorrow night. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted July 30, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 30, 2014 The destructions direct that the cylinders and motion should be built next but I think I'll have a crack at the gearbox and motor. I want to make sure that the chassis runs nicely before adding too much in the way of cosmetic niceties like boiler, cab, footplate... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted July 30, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 30, 2014 Are you going DCC with your O gauge stuff ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted July 30, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 30, 2014 If you are going to fit a decoder I would test the loco on DC before connecting the decoder in. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted July 31, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 31, 2014 Are you going DCC with your O gauge stuff ? Simple answer Stu is that I don't know. The layout only has 5 turnouts and they will be conventionally controlled. Max of two locos out front at any one time but more likely just one. The locos have no lights to control and I'm not yet convinced by DCC steam sound. So, other than aledged better control, there's no big case to go DCC on Pencarrow. Time will tell. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted July 31, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 31, 2014 If you are going to fit a decoder I would test the loco on DC before connecting the decoder in. Don Getting the chassis motorised and working on DC is my next challenge! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted July 31, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 31, 2014 DLT Dave has proved that a well built chassis with a suitable motor and gearbox, can run exceptionally well without the need for DCC. I also prefer the much smaller hand controllers DC uses. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted July 31, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 31, 2014 DLT Dave has proved that a well built chassis with a suitable motor and gearbox, can run exceptionally well without the need for DCC. I also prefer the much smaller hand controllers DC uses. I must admit I much prefer turning the dial of a conventional DC controller to the endless button pressing of DCC. Ps I like your new avatar Stu, much more 'tasteful' than Mallard's new one ;-p 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
81A Oldoak Posted July 31, 2014 Share Posted July 31, 2014 I must admit I much prefer turning the dial of a conventional DC controller to the endless button pressing of DCC. Ps I like your new avatar Stu, much more 'tasteful' than Mallard's new one ;-p After much research and thought, I finally opted for DCC on my 0 gauge Cwm Bach layout http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/80426-cwm-bach-a-south-wales-branch-line/ The attraction for me is sound, which is good for diesels and improving for steam. The main deficiency of steam sounds has been continuing chuffing when the loco is coasting. I also like not having to remember about throwing section switches when operating. I use a Gaugemaster Prodigy, which has a knob for sped control. I don't use DCC to control signals and points because there would be excessive button pushing. I prefer switches set up like a lever-frame in which I can see the settings from the positions of the switches. I see track-supplied DCC as an interim phase for model railways. I am not an engineer, but I wonder why we have not as an industry been able to develop a reliable and small rechargeable on-board batteries. Just think, no track wiring, no track cleaning, no stalling or jerky running. The most important thing, though, is to do what you want. Railway modelling is fun and whatever you want to do is the right thing to do. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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