Kenton Posted July 30, 2014 Share Posted July 30, 2014 OK patience was never my strong point and my dad always said "strike while the iron is hot". So before the standards topic causes enthusiasm to wane completely I have made a start. A simple plain module which I can build before the standards evolve into 3 volumes of overly narrow definitions. Built with the principle of "getting involved with something" and feeling that there needs to be more than just plain straight modules built. Step 1: The module board and track plan: I like open frame design with 9mm ply as fascia. I made a start on the end panels which will connect to other modules. Initially these were made of 9mm ply (as in the original proposed standard); are 100mm deep and 500mm wide. This deviates from the proposed standards of 4" and 18" respectively but are pretty close. Given the fact that imperial measurements no longer seem to be law]/i] in the UK I think metric would be more understood. The end plate width is, I believe, a standard too far and not important within some reason. I have adopted it as a recommendation. The baseboard frame will be a bit of a challenge as it involves angles that are not simple to construct. Out comes the calculator and those trigonometry equations from school. Here are the end plates. The thickness has been doubled to 18mm by making a ply sandwich. The 50x50 blocks are to act as strengtheners at the corners of the module and to aid me with getting true 90' angles at this part of the frame. As hopefully seen from the diagram there are two identical frame rectangles from the end plates. These are easy to build with the same principles - everything will eventually be glued together but as I progress just screwed. Now the distances start to become critical as the angles are formed. When laid out this starts to look like a monster - It is amazing just how much space a 36" (slightly over) curve takes up. The other sides of the rectangle are roughly cut to length, as a joint need to be cut in the 'front' ends. They were then laid out on the table using paper protractors to set the angles. Two temporary spars were then screwed across to hold the alignment. Now I'm satisfied everything is square I can cut the 'front' fascia frame support (this has to be lower than the sides as the fascia will eventually be profiled to landscape - only 8ft but should just about be enough. I could go deeper but the frame would require more woodwork - so I'll leave it neater for now. Remember that old rule of thumb (other than the one "don't hit it") of "measure twice; then cut once; then cut again to correct it; or sand it down to fit; or pack it with cardboard" um well let's say I have a variety of wedges. Starting to become quite rigid in two axes. The 'front' fascia slides nicely in the outer angles - it will be fixed later. Now on with the rear fascia frame support. As there is no real viewing side the landscape will require a similar treatment so again the board will be profiled and the frame timber orientated the same way. That is it frame complete. The 'front' and 'rear fascias are only screwed on awaiting my thoughts on landscape and at least one of the rear side fascias will get extended upwards. the framework may get one or two additional spars to support the trackbed. But essentially it is complete. Some filling and a little sanding to hide some gaps but that is for the aesthetics department. I am also yet to decide on legs - that can wait a while. Of course all this activity in the garage has not gone unnoticed and enquiring and disdain remarks have started to pour in. One which couldn't go unchecked was the comment "how are you going to transport it". But it seems my calculations were sufficient and to prove it: Next Step: Track Bed and Track Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter220950 Posted July 30, 2014 Share Posted July 30, 2014 OK patience was never my strong point and my dad always said "strike while the iron is hot". So before the standards topic causes enthusiasm to wane completely I have made a start. One of the only two things I learned in 43 years of work was 'A decision made, whether right or wrong, is better than no decision at all' Well done for kicking the first one off, look forward to you setting the standards for the rest of us, even if they aren't quite the same as 'The Standards' I'm sure it will all work. I agree with you that still specifying anything in feet and inches in this day and age is odd, and I'm a miserable old Luddite. Because I'm lazy, and can't find a protractor, what angle are you turning the layout? P.S. Before anyone asks, the other thing I learned was 'Never believe anything anyone ever tells you', which tends to mean you have to ignore my first comment! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted July 31, 2014 Author Share Posted July 31, 2014 Because I'm lazy, and can't find a protractor, what angle are you turning the layout? 60 degrees - I though this would be more adventurous/different than 45 or 90. I'm also hoping it will be just as useful. It also is a component in the wider scheme of things which involve a triangle. But I thought I'd start small and simple with a taster into the genre. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Talltim Posted July 31, 2014 Share Posted July 31, 2014 I like the name Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cromptonnut Posted July 31, 2014 Share Posted July 31, 2014 Congratulations for being the first to make a start on the module... I assume that it'll somehow be commemorated on it that you were the first one to start? You're still several days ahead of me, I'm partly held up waiting for the postman to deliver a load of bits I'm needing for several different modules I have planned. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter220950 Posted July 31, 2014 Share Posted July 31, 2014 Better than Kenton's 'Round the Bend' ........................ Anyway I'm liking the look of this, keep up the good work, looking forward to watching its progress. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter220950 Posted July 31, 2014 Share Posted July 31, 2014 I like the name Better than Kenton's 'Round the Bend' ........................ Anyway I'm liking the look of this, keep up the good work, looking forward to watching its progress. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Satan's Goldfish Posted August 1, 2014 Share Posted August 1, 2014 All hail Kenton.... Despite my plans for modules being based on an actual location, i was stressing a little over what angles to make the curved sections. Multiples of 30 it is then! Can we expect some sort of commemorative plaque fitted to the module when it's finished? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted August 1, 2014 Author Share Posted August 1, 2014 Despite my plans for modules being based on an actual location, i was stressing a little over what angles to make the curved sections. Multiples of 30 it is then! Can we expect some sort of commemorative plaque fitted to the module when it's finished? I do not believe that the curve selected for any module has any importance whatsoever and most definitely should not be addressed by some "standard". I selected 60' only for the reason given above. A 20', 10', 45' or whatever takes the fancy could be used in any meeting and the arrangement is more down to who ever is planning what connects to what. This FREEDOM of what happens within the module is what makes it so attractive and open to as wide a contribution as possible. As for a commemorative plaque ... I think you need to wait until it is finished ... I'm good at starting these things but have a habit of crashing out as something else comes along. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Satan's Goldfish Posted August 1, 2014 Share Posted August 1, 2014 The Angle is more of an OCD thing rather than following a standard. Prt of my brain was not allowing me to just let it flow to a random angle like the prototype does, but it would also rather 'sheep' and follow someone elses example rather than create for itself and then everyone else do something different. TBH, you could lay track, Ballast, and just green field each side with nothing else on the board and call it the first planned and completed module (pending future additions of maybe a fence, and some cows, etc) and you're still a lot further ahead than the rest of us. This reminds me, i need to liberate some banana plugs and build some new legs for the fiddle yard... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted August 1, 2014 Author Share Posted August 1, 2014 TBH, you could lay track, Ballast, and just green field each side with nothing else on the boardand there was me thinking I could get away with just track ... you mean I have to ballast it as well. Legs - they can wait until it gets an invite. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Satan's Goldfish Posted August 1, 2014 Share Posted August 1, 2014 Maybe i took it a step too far, my bad (I was debating just getting some cheap paint and painting track bed grey and the rest green until my modules have proved they work) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Reichert Posted August 1, 2014 Share Posted August 1, 2014 and there was me thinking I could get away with just track ... you mean I have to ballast it as well. Legs - they can wait until it gets an invite. A section of empty plain track is usually the most accurate model representation of a real railway Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted August 2, 2014 Author Share Posted August 2, 2014 So as thoughts now turn to trackbed - how wide is a question that springs to mind. It obviously has to be greater than the track and to allow for ballast and a little more for attaching/blending landscape. But should there be an allowance for a cess or edge to the ballast? Is 75mm enough? Looking at photos of the prototype it appears that sometimes ballast just spills into the long grass at the edge in others there is a clear cess of varying width. Going by that loading gauge diagram it works out as a minimum of 46mm for ballast and +4mm for the cess either side. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonhall Posted August 2, 2014 Share Posted August 2, 2014 So as thoughts now turn to trackbed - how wide is a question that springs to mind. It obviously has to be greater than the track and to allow for ballast and a little more for attaching/blending landscape. But should there be an allowance for a cess or edge to the ballast? Is 75mm enough? Looking at photos of the prototype it appears that sometimes ballast just spills into the long grass at the edge in others there is a clear cess of varying width. Going by that loading gauge diagram it works out as a minimum of 46mm for ballast and +4mm for the cess either side. What's needed is a standard..... J Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted August 2, 2014 Author Share Posted August 2, 2014 Too late - I've developed one of my own .... nothing gets in the way of progress y'know and the decision was made today on the position of the trackbed/base board re the endplates. On Kenton's Curve at least, it will go over the end plates. It is just that provides more support where the track need all it can get. I also decided on the length of straight to have at the end of the curve - 90' to the end plate as per The Standard but it will be 3" worth. (it was discussed but left open) I do not see this short length of straight track to be too unaesthetically pleasing or will make the motion of trains over it challenging. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
buffalo Posted August 2, 2014 Share Posted August 2, 2014 Rather than a short straight followed immediately by a curve, why not do what the prototype does and have a transition curve? Start with the track at right angles to the board end and gradually reduce the radius over the first foot or so at each end. Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Stationmaster Posted August 2, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 2, 2014 Rather than a short straight followed immediately by a curve, why not do what the prototype does and have a transition curve? Start with the track at right angles to the board end and gradually reduce the radius over the first foot or so at each end. Nick I agree Nick but at least Kenton is doing exactly the right thing in having some straight track at a right angle to the board end face at each end. While a transition will help appearance, and probably running as well, the key thing to avoid is going from curve - of whatever radius - to straight where boards abut each other as that can impact on running. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted August 2, 2014 Author Share Posted August 2, 2014 Rather than a short straight followed immediately by a curve, why not do what the prototype does and have a transition curve? Start with the track at right angles to the board end and gradually reduce the radius over the first foot or so at each end. Nick Nick, well that was what I meant but didn't make it clear enough. The first 3" will be straight the curve will then start becoming about 36" at its apex. (well actually it will also straighten slight at two pinch points where the "landscape" will dictate it.) Hopefully it will just flow, nothing sudden. The one thing I feel needs to be avoided at board joins is a reverse curve. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
GRC Posted August 2, 2014 Share Posted August 2, 2014 Great Job Kenton- Need to get a move on now :-) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cromptonnut Posted August 2, 2014 Share Posted August 2, 2014 I'm held up waiting the postman - a Hattons order from Wednesday hasn't arrived yet with some critical bits in Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted August 2, 2014 Author Share Posted August 2, 2014 I'm held up waiting the postman - a Hattons order from Wednesday hasn't arrived yet with some critical bits in Didn't know Hattons sold wood now or is it going to be teak effect? So far the module has been free - well the wood was languishing on the wood pile, even the track is reclaimed, a couple of other items were in the train cupboard collecting dust. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cromptonnut Posted August 2, 2014 Share Posted August 2, 2014 I went to B&Q this afternoon with a cutting list for a few bits, the "main boards" are recycled from a project that hadn't got very far and I'd kinda lost interest in. Hopefully tomorrow those bits will get put on the layout so I can lay the track (all 4ft of it...) and then when the Hattons box arrives I can cut the rest of the bits of wood to give me the track bed position I need and then start laying some scenery. I reckon a month tops for this particular board - I have all the other bits I need, am just waiting for the postman. Hattons parcels are usually fairly quick so I'm a bit surprised it's taken this long actually. Whilst I wait I do have a few plastic kits that need putting together and then painting. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted August 3, 2014 Author Share Posted August 3, 2014 and then painting.The bit I'm virtually incapable of (or so it seems)! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cromptonnut Posted August 3, 2014 Share Posted August 3, 2014 Painting isn't my strongest point either but I now have one completed pillbox which I am about to slap an "all over concrete" on followed by weathering sludge. Even I can't get that wrong... surely? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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