Jump to content

Peco 75 with SMP


Recommended Posts

Good afternoon all.

Well, here I am in my attic, baseboard finished, apart from a few coach bolts to be tightened, sweating away in some 30 degrees. Should help weight loss, and I could do with losing some. Well, lots. 

Track plan at the ready, Xuron in hand, lots of Peco 75 points and SMP track all now ready to to laid.

I've seen that others have trodden this path, but notice that there's a difference in height between the two viz.  The rail height is the same, 1.91mm, so that's not a problem, but the height of the Peco track from bottom of sleeper to is about 4.5mm and of SMP about 3.55mm giving a whopping 0.95 difference. These dimensions vary with how heavy-handed I was with the vernier.

I'd thought about shimming the SMP on its approach to the Peco point (using card) but thought that this might cause an unsightly ramp at each point. An alternative would be to shim the whole lengths of SMP, but that seems a fag, a tiresome thing to have to do.

How did others who used these two tracks overcome this difference? 

Any answers to this conundrum welcome(and, yes, I have thought of building my own C & L points, but I'd like to complete the layout...)

Cliff

Link to post
Share on other sites

Firmly glue down 1/8" cork as a trackbed. Using an electric sander, sand the cork down where the Peco points will lie until the Peco and SMP railheads are about in line. Fishplate using Peco rail joiners and glue track down with favourite glue.

Edited by coachmann
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Firmly glue down 1/8" cork as a trackbed. Using an electric sander, sand the cork down where the Peco points will lie until the Peco and SMP railheads are about in line. Fishplate using Peco rail joiners and glue track down with favourite glue.

Excellent advice and I wish I had thought of that last year when I actually built a part of a layout. (Careful, don't faint......)

Don't suppose there is a thinner cork to accommodate the point timbers area, to save the sanding? (I'm just a lazy so* you see).

P

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for your replies.

I wonder if the dense foam made up for the difference, Steve1? Certainly the fishplates held the rails at the same height because the rails themselves are of equal depth.

Coachmann, your idea, looks interesting if a little time consuming but I may try it, but, first, I think I'll try philsandy's idea. Thanks again,

Cliff

Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm sure this combination has been used by many people but just wondered how the two match in appearance. Sleeper spacing probably doesn't matter as turnouts are generally closer spaced than plain track - but how about the rail and chairs, isn't SMP bullhead?

 

My experience with trying to match different rail heights with a ramp (Bachmann Snap-Fit and Micro-Engineering on slightly too thin cork) was that the longer wheel-based RTR locos uncoupled (Bachmann knuckle type).

Edited by Jeff Smith
Link to post
Share on other sites

Would it not be easier to lay the Peco points on 2mm thick cork and the SMP track on 3mm?

Simply lay the points on the 2mm cork sheet, draw round the outline and cut out the shape with scissors.

That would be neat although I wasn't aware one could buy 2mm and 3,mm thick cork. I've only heard of 1/16" and 1/8" cork in model railway circles.

Edited by coachmann
Link to post
Share on other sites

 

I wonder if the dense foam made up for the difference, Steve1?

 

Not having anything to which it can be compared, I don't really know. All I do know is that I never had any problems with the combination on the layout. It was a small, intensively operated, exhibition layout, so had to stand up to being moved about, used and stored.

 

steve

Link to post
Share on other sites

That would be neat although I wasn't aware one could buy 2mm and 3,mm thick cork. I've only heard of 1/16" and 1/8" cork in model railway circles. Yes, its a bit of an SI-free area, Coachmann, but I did notice some 2mm when I was browsing yesterday, I need to go back and look. On one site (it may have been Antics) they had 2.5mm which they equated to 3mm...

Link to post
Share on other sites

I bought a roll from my local model shop, it was was supposed to be 3mm. but when I measured it was actually 2mm. but I can't remember the product name.

So I'm not sure wether anyone sells 2mm that actually is 2mm, surely someone must.

 

1/8" is near enough 3mm, but 1/16" is approx.only 1.5mm.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I was browsing around B&Q on my own yesterday so I could hang around the tool section as long as I liked(!), and was looking at electric planers. The cheapest are not expensive and would probably be better than a sander for reducing the depth of cork a little between formers. Anyone any experience of these?

Edited by coachmann
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Unballasted, unpainted, lat alone weathered, against a black & white background (dense rubber foam used as underlay and kitchen towels used to form what would become a ballast shoulder (if it was ever finished) and undergoing initial wiring testing.  Rail height 'matching' carried out mainly with solder and squeezing tight of rail joiners but track is still semi floating at this stage in construction.

 

post-6859-0-65966400-1407406141_thumb.jpg

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

...Any answers to this conundrum welcome(and, yes, I have thought of building my own C & L points, but I'd like to complete the layout)...

Right with you there! No layout = trains cannot run, symptoms of withdrawal include terrible D.T's. (Denied Trains.)

 

I went the extra piece of card under all the SMP plain track route when trialling the Peco 75/SMP combination, but will quite definitely give thought to any 1mm difference in cork sheet thickness possibility in future. I'll put in a plug here for tidying up the timbering around the tie bar, eliminating the over centre spring contraption and cutting off the tiebar ends with the upstands too, all easy wins in the 'better appearance' stakes.

Link to post
Share on other sites

So far I've found the following on the web: 

1. C & L: 1/16" and 3mm (I'm not making that up) 

2. Tracklay: Don't say (I've asked yet to hear back)

3. Cork24: 1.8/3/4/6/mm (all sheets)

4.Charles Cantrill: 1/16 /1/8 /3/16" (I've asked if these are equivalent to metric, yet to hear back)

5. Javis: 1/32 / 1/16/ 1/8" (I've asked if these are equivalent to metric, yet to hear back)

6. Quality Cork Supplies (ad in RM): 1/16 / 1/8 / 3/16"

7. Marcway: 1/32 / 1/16 / 1/8" for which they give metric equivalents as: 0.8/1.5/3/4.5

8. Cheltenham Model Centre: 1/32/1/16/1/8/3/16"

9. Gaugemaster: 1/16/1/8"

 By-and-large, these people quote in terms of Imperial, but I wonder if, in fact, they're made in nominal metric units. For something like this it doesn't matter until you encounter the height differences. A personal wish is that they'd drop the Imperial units.

Hattons and others also sell, the above is only representative. Cork24 is closest to 2mm. 

In the meantime I measured what I've got which, from memory, I bought at a model shop in the county. Strips are 605 x 94 x 2.35 (nominal 2.5?) and sheet 3.1 (clearly 1/8" nom) That difference is just about correct to make up the height difference.

I should've measured before I put the question to you good folk and apologise for not having done so and thank you for your help.

Cliff

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Received a reply from Tracklay, No. 2 above:

 

"the OO underlay is 1.5mm thick (1/16th of an inch).

This and more info can be found on the "What is it?" link on the horizontal menu bar"
 
The info is on their website, I missed it.
Link to post
Share on other sites

I use Tracklay with a mixture of C&L track and Peco points on a base of C&L high density foam, and am pleased with the results.Construction  details can be seen here - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/62/entry-10836-tracklaying-with-tracklay/ -which I have found gives a reliable trackbase that makes for good running.

 

A quick shot to show the meeting of the two products- I have fitted cosmetic chairs to the Peco points which transforms the overall appearance of them...

 

post-2642-0-51750500-1407545202_thumb.jpg

 

 

  • Like 8
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...