Graham456 Posted May 1, 2018 Share Posted May 1, 2018 (edited) So Far ! Removed couplings to get at the screws that hold the body on the chassis,this separated them.BUT the tail rod from the cross head to the vacuum pump which is glued to the footplate makes it a right caddie to get them fully apart, it dissolved into bits as the slide bars fell off/separated from the bracket and cylinder, currently typeing this whilst having a break from fiddling the two separate slide bars back in place dropping bits on the floor much fun ! But interestingly whilst gently pulling them apart the boiler/cab all gently separated from the footplate so I didn't have to undo any of the screws holding the chassis to the footplate, the chassis and wheels holding the gears are in the footplate chassis part, and the motor top gear tower stay in the body, the wires to the motor from the chassis are unscrewable from the lower chassis, my wires from the chassis were connected to nothing ! Might be why it didn't work First to get the chassis cylinders back to gather befor looking in the body Hope this helps anyone else who is fiddling with one of the non working ones Edited May 1, 2018 by Graham456 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Fatadder Posted May 1, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 1, 2018 So Far ! Removed couplings to get at the screws that hold the body on the chassis,this separated them.BUT the tail rod from the cross head to the vacuum pump which is glued to the footplate makes it a right caddie to get them fully apart, it dissolved into bits as the slide bars fell off/separated from the bracket and cylinder, currently typeing this whilst having a break from fiddling the two separate slide bars back in place dropping bits on the floor much fun ! But interestingly whilst gently pulling them apart the boiler/cab all gently separated from the footplate so I didn't have to undo any of the screws holding the chassis to the footplate, the chassis and wheels holding the gears are in the footplate chassis part, and the motor top gear tower stay in the body, the wires to the motor from the chassis are unscrewable from the lower chassis, my wires from the chassis were connected to nothing ! Might be why it didn't work First to get the chassis cylinders back to gather befor looking in the body Hope this helps anyone else who is fiddling with one of the non working ones Would it be possible to share a couple of photos please? Will be having a go at mine tomorrow Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Stationmaster Posted May 1, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 1, 2018 Once you get the chassis off the rest is basically an assemblage of separate parts - thus the smokebox is one part, the saddle tank is in two parts, the cab/bunker area is (if memory serves me right ) at least three separate parts. It was tooled in that way to make it easier to get the detail variations between engines correctly portrayed. IF it splits down the running plate will come out as a separate part so once you get down to the that removing the 'humps' should be fairly straightforward. I did have a complete parts list with exploded diagrams somewhere but it will only work with specialised software and that also depends on whether or not I can find it but overall there are about 800 parts including the detail variations. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackRat Posted May 1, 2018 Share Posted May 1, 2018 Been running my BR weathered one in for about 4 hrs in each direction now, it's better than it was but still very tight in places at low speeds...... Anyone else found this? Probably just my luck to get a duffish one. Ok at speed, but I only want it to run sllloowwwlllyyyyyy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham456 Posted May 1, 2018 Share Posted May 1, 2018 (edited) Surgery report ! Well I said I was going to put the side rods together first ....but after a frustrating fiddle I picked up the body and as the station master said the body is in two parts the under boiler and bottom of the saddle tank is lightly glued to the rest of the tank, gentle levering persuaded them apart revealing the tiddly motor, which worked Yea Ha ! Fault was in the broken chip mounting in the bunker, and wiring being a Luddite it was just done away with I can understand why kernow haddent repaired it its time absorbing fiddle P S their are two clips at the front of the smokebox holding it to the footplate it was these I had accidentally released in fiddling with it, don't try removing the chassis from the footplate I have to get back to juggling to get mine back together but that will be in a few days time busy with my B&B for the next few days Sorry no pictures fatadder, I only have a Ipad and no picture size reducing gizmo The only proviso is this was a unpainted model and might not be so securely glued as a production model Edited May 1, 2018 by Graham456 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Fatadder Posted May 1, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 1, 2018 Interesting, I wasn’t expecting a chance of making mine work. (Mine was one of the painted ones rather than the unpainted samples) When I get home tomorrow I will be stripping it down! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham456 Posted May 1, 2018 Share Posted May 1, 2018 Just wondering if the ones whose wheels spin as several at the show did just had the lower gears separated from the motor gear as the body wasn't clamping the two together Have fun and cross your fingers Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham456 Posted May 1, 2018 Share Posted May 1, 2018 (edited) Interesting, I wasn’t expecting a chance of making mine work. (Mine was one of the painted ones rather than the unpainted samples) When I get home tomorrow I will be stripping it down! Nor was I their just too cute I had to have some! Note some means more than one !.....mad maybe ! But I thought I would learn on the one it didn't matter about the paint job ! If it wasn't for 247 being their sokeing up my money as well I might no would have gone madder! Not for getting bring and buy, pastys, P S I did buy a good one as well ! Edited May 1, 2018 by Graham456 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Fatadder Posted May 1, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 1, 2018 Nor was I their just too cute I had to have some! My intention was to have it unpowered being towed back to Cornwall after overhaul in Newton Abbot works (hence both justifying it passing through Brent, and justifying it in ex works post war G W R livery.) However if i can make it work, it gives a nice little loco which will have other potential future uses..... 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith George Posted May 1, 2018 Share Posted May 1, 2018 Would it be unfair to think that it would be a good idea if Kernow could offer some advice on these problems.? After all they do follow this forum under non-de -plumes. Keith Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham456 Posted May 1, 2018 Share Posted May 1, 2018 (edited) Surgery report two ! Forgot to mention the two screws under the coal load that hold the body to the footplate earlier ! And DOH ! Second one has no motor or gears ! Still looks pretty though and I didn't expect any of them to work when I bought them as cabinet fodder No complaints from me about the no motor, very happy with what I bought from Kernow suspect more proper ones will be bought by me to decorate the layout rather than the cabinet, that one in gray primer looks to tempting, hardly commonly seen like that in real life but can I resist? Edited May 1, 2018 by Graham456 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham456 Posted May 2, 2018 Share Posted May 2, 2018 Overnight dreaming/thinking wonder if the undecorated ones are chassis tests and are more likely to have the running bits ? Where as the painted ones are livery tests so don't need motors ? Can't touch mine until next week now to busy. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRman Posted May 2, 2018 Share Posted May 2, 2018 (edited) Surgery report two ! Forgot to mention the two screws under the coal load that hold the body to the footplate earlier ! And DOH ! Second one has no motor or gears ! Still looks pretty though and I didn't expect any of them to work when I bought them as cabinet fodder No complaints from me about the no motor, very happy with what I bought from Kernow suspect more proper ones will be bought by me to decorate the layout rather than the cabinet, that one in gray primer looks to tempting, hardly commonly seen like that in real life but can I resist? Just a suggestion, but if you buy the photographic grey one, that would be an ideal candidate for the display cabinet/shelf, so you could swap the works into one of the other unpowered models and get the best of both worlds. Edited May 2, 2018 by SRman Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lochlongside Posted May 2, 2018 Share Posted May 2, 2018 Been running my BR weathered one in for about 4 hrs in each direction now, it's better than it was but still very tight in places at low speeds...... Anyone else found this? Probably just my luck to get a duffish one. Ok at speed, but I only want it to run sllloowwwlllyyyyyy Hi Black Rat, I had 2x BR models one was fine, t'other was erratic particularly at slow speed (and v. noisy at high) despite a one hour running in session. - I then spoke to Kernow who said they would exchange it, but in discussion confirmed that it was split chassis pickup from axles and that manufacturer had in some cases overdone the grease in the chassis and this presumably could/may interfere. I looked at popping bottom plate off to expose gears and do a clean up (it is apparently a snap on fitting - but given earlier comments I'm glad I ducked out) In the end I waggled a really good dose of meths into the works, particularly around the axles, with a paintbrush and then followed it up with a generous dose of electrolube - like you I then ran it in for an age (a couple of hours) and the slow speed performance improved dramatically (it still runs like a bag of spanners at top speed but as that is well in excess of a scale 60-70 (subjective!) mph I felt I could live with that. you could try same before returning it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackRat Posted May 2, 2018 Share Posted May 2, 2018 Hi Black Rat, I had 2x BR models one was fine, t'other was erratic particularly at slow speed (and v. noisy at high) despite a one hour running in session. - I then spoke to Kernow who said they would exchange it, but in discussion confirmed that it was split chassis pickup from axles and that manufacturer had in some cases overdone the grease in the chassis and this presumably could/may interfere. I looked at popping bottom plate off to expose gears and do a clean up (it is apparently a snap on fitting - but given earlier comments I'm glad I ducked out) In the end I waggled a really good dose of meths into the works, particularly around the axles, with a paintbrush and then followed it up with a generous dose of electrolube - like you I then ran it in for an age (a couple of hours) and the slow speed performance improved dramatically (it still runs like a bag of spanners at top speed but as that is well in excess of a scale 60-70 (subjective!) mph I felt I could live with that. you could try same before returning it. Thanks for the info.......dunno if this will help....... Took the coal out, undid the two cab securing screws and removed the cab. I then tilted the tank s forward ( as per the instructions) and put a small amount of oil on the worm. Give it a quick test run and all was well. I DONT think it was oiling the worm, but rather something had got pinched or trapped against the worm or part of the drive, which was freed by my tweaking of the tanks. Put it all back together and the improvement is astounding. Just one of those things I guess. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Liddy Posted May 3, 2018 Share Posted May 3, 2018 When I took my 1365 apart to hardwire a decoder I wasn't impressed with the finish on the worm. The peak of the thread seemed to have a rough finish which would contribute a lot to the noise of the drivetrain. Mine has been run-in 4 hours each direction and is certainly quieter than when first out of the box. I have gear grease on my shopping list for Bristol ModRailEx tomorrow. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSpencer Posted February 21, 2020 Share Posted February 21, 2020 Kernow have just reduced their 1361s down to £69.99 in response to the Heljan ones suddenly appearing a lot cheaper. Their facebook post says they are being sold at a loss even though they tooled up all the slight differences in class members and their model being hailed the better of the two. Grab 'em quick. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold greatcoleswoodhalt Posted February 21, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 21, 2020 Just now, JSpencer said: Kernow have just reduced their 1361s down to £69.99 in response to the Heljan ones suddenly appearing a lot cheaper. Their facebook post says they are being sold at a loss even though they tooled up all the slight differences in class members and their model being hailed the better of the two. Grab 'em quick. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Welchester Posted February 21, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 21, 2020 Kernow were selling the 1361s at this price at Warley last November. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rovex Posted February 22, 2020 Share Posted February 22, 2020 If I didn't already have one I would. In fact I was almost tempted to buy a second one but then I got myself back under control 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikesndbs Posted May 29, 2020 Share Posted May 29, 2020 Hi Can other owners help me please? Been lucky to this little loco for my birthday and have just been fitting the details. The fire irons supplied I understand should be fitted at the rear and looped over one of the brackets, however they seem way to long and would stick out alarmingly. What am I doing wrong? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold gwrrob Posted May 29, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 29, 2020 Yes, they need shortening to fit snugly. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edge Posted July 30, 2020 Share Posted July 30, 2020 (edited) Hi all, am considering picking up the works grey one from Kernow for a preserved railway project. What is the general performance of these critters like? I can’t imagine that it will ever do much more than pull a couple of coaches pretty slowly, but even £70 is a lot for me so I’d rather not be buying a pup if I can get away with it . I’m unlikely to ever actually do anything to the model other than fit a decoder some time in the future. im aware that this may be covered elsewhere in the topic, but I’m at work right now so please take mercy on a man who doesn’t want to wade through 30 pages Edited July 30, 2020 by Edge Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold jonnyuk Posted July 30, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 30, 2020 my experience with these loco's is not good. i returned mine to kernow. it was not smooth, it stuttered at anything below 3/4 speed, the motor was loud, nice looking if not 100% accurate but awful running qualities, others have said it's a great runner, pay your money, take your chance Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikesndbs Posted July 30, 2020 Share Posted July 30, 2020 2 hours ago, Edge said: Hi all, am considering picking up the works grey one from Kernow for a preserved railway project. What is the general performance of these critters like? I can’t imagine that it will ever do much more than pull a couple of coaches pretty slowly, but even £70 is a lot for me so I’d rather not be buying a pup if I can get away with it . I’m unlikely to ever actually do anything to the model other than fit a decoder some time in the future. im aware that this may be covered elsewhere in the topic, but I’m at work right now so please take mercy on a man who doesn’t want to wade through 30 pages Hi, You can't use feedback control or HF track cleaners with them. The performance is at best ok. A lot of gear noise but then there is a lot of gears. A clean and check of the pick ups and a good oiling of the gear chain and importantly side spindles will pay dividends. Here is mine at work: 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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