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The new "New" signal box is taking shape.  I have made the four main walls utilising the Smart Model kit's wall patterns but overlain them externally with Scalescenes red brick paper and concrete paper (for the lintels and cills).  Nothing is glued together yet but I have posed them using magnetic clamps here...

 

IMG_20200622_173951.jpg.81139103623be36872bc29ef86d060e3.jpg

 

IMG_20200622_174011.jpg.4067de5cdd34c93a2af7a9a442b10dd1.jpg

 

...and on the layout.

 

IMG_20200622_175028.jpg.a07a2b373e7940367afb898b22758862.jpg

 

More pics later as the build continues.

 

Regards,

Brian.

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41 minutes ago, Brian D said:

 

The new "New" signal box is taking shape.  I have made the four main walls utilising the Smart Model kit's wall patterns but overlain them externally with Scalescenes red brick paper and concrete paper (for the lintels and cills).  Nothing is glued together yet but I have posed them using magnetic clamps here...

 

IMG_20200622_173951.jpg.81139103623be36872bc29ef86d060e3.jpg

 

*snip*

 

...and on the layout.

 

More pics later as the build continues.

 

Regards,

Brian.

Brian,

 

What are you using to attach the brick-paper to the cardboard frame?

 

I previously used 'pritt' (or at least an equivalent 'non-sticky sticky-stuff'), but this rather entails using a roller to press the two parts together to get a good bond.

 

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Posted (edited)
17 hours ago, ISW said:

Brian,

 

What are you using to attach the brick-paper to the cardboard frame?

 

I previously used 'pritt' (or at least an equivalent 'non-sticky sticky-stuff'), but this rather entails using a roller to press the two parts together to get a good bond.

 

 

I just use the cheapest glue sticks on offer. The Range sell a nice set of four different size sticks for a pound. Liberally apply the glue to the card and press firmly to the texture, smoothing out from the centre to eradicate any air bubbles, a bit like wall papering. Make sure the cap is returned to the glue stick between uses otherwise the glue stick will dry out.

This process works for me but you have to apply plenty of glue, hence avoid relatively expensive Pritt Stick unless you have to.

My "The Range" stock is now exhausted so I'm using some Asda glue sticks meant for kids crafting.

Hope this helps.

 

Regards

 Brian

 

PS the card is grey board and the texture sheet is plain paper. If you are using other combos then a different approach may be required. 

Edited by Brian D
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10 hours ago, Brian D said:

 

I just use the cheapest glue sticks on offer. The Range sell a nice set of four different size sticks for a pound. Liberally apply the glue to the card and press firmly to the texture, smoothing out from the centre to eradicate any air bubbles, a bit like wall papering. Make sure the cap is returned to the glue stick between uses otherwise the glue stick will dry out.

This process works for me but you have to apply plenty of glue, hence avoid relatively expensive Pritt Stick unless you have to.

My "The Range" stock is now exhausted so I'm using some Asda glue sticks meant for kids crafting.

Hope this helps.

 

Regards

 Brian

 

PS the card is grey board and the texture sheet is plain paper. If you are using other combos then a different approach may be required. 

Brian,

 

Using the cheapest 'pritt' sounds like a good tactic to me ...

 

The only problems I encountered were the tabs of the brick-paper folded inside the window / door openings. The small amount of paper meant it was hard to get a good long-term bond. The other problem is attaching the windows (usually bonded between 2 layers of the cardboard structure). 'Pritt' doesn't seem to stick these very well.

 

Either way, you are making very good progress with your buildings. Most impressive.

 

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Posted (edited)
21 hours ago, ISW said:

Brian,

 

Using the cheapest 'pritt' sounds like a good tactic to me ...

 

The only problems I encountered were the tabs of the brick-paper folded inside the window / door openings. The small amount of paper meant it was hard to get a good long-term bond. The other problem is attaching the windows (usually bonded between 2 layers of the cardboard structure). 'Pritt' doesn't seem to stick these very well.

 

Either way, you are making very good progress with your buildings. Most impressive.

 

 

Hi ISW, sorry to take so long coming back to you.

Regarding window and door openings, if you haven't got a small glue stick (The Range product I mentioned earlier has a suitable small stick which can get into small apertures like window and door openings. It also comes with three larger glue sticks) then scrape a little glue off with a blade and spread it into the window/door reveals and then press home the texture flaps with the (clean) blade.

My windows comprise either, depending on type, (A) printing the frames on self adhesive (peal off stick on) labels (50 A4 size labels can be bought quite cheaply on Eb*y), cutting out the window panes and then pealing off the backing and gluing the "frames" to clear report covers or (B) printing the windows directly on to Over Head Projector transparencies.  Either type is then glued to the inside of the relevant outer wall element using a small amount of Loctite all purpose adhesive (about £2 a tube in Asda) or UHU all purpose glue (usually a lot dearer).  Glue sticks I find do not work very well unless you are gluing paper or card to another piece of paper or card. 

Hope that helps.

 

Regards,

Brian.

Edited by Brian D
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2 hours ago, Brian D said:

 

Hi ISW, sorry to take so long coming back to you.

Regarding window and door openings, if you haven't got a small glue stick (The Range product I mentioned earlier has a suitable small stick which can get into small apertures like window and door openings. It also comes with three larger glue sticks) then scrape a little glue off with a blade and spread it into the window/door reveals and then press home the texture flaps with the (clean) blade.

My windows comprise either, depending on type, (A) printing the frames on self adhesive (peal off stick on) labels (50 A4 size labels can be bought quite cheaply on Eb*y), cutting out the window panes and then pealing off the backing and gluing the "frames" to clear report covers or (B) printing the windows directly on to Over Head Projector transparencies.  Either type is then glued to the inside of the relevant outer wall element using a small amount of Loctite all purpose adhesive (about £2 a tube in Asda) or UHU all purpose glue (usually a lot dearer).  Glue sticks I find do not work very well unless you are gluing paper or card to another piece of paper or card. 

Hope that helps.

 

Regards,

Brian.

Brian,

 

Thanks for the reply and the details contained therein. I'll take the information on-board when I commence construction of my building; although that's a way in the future at present!

 

(I'll be keeping a print out of this information in my 'hints' file).

 

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Posted (edited)

 

This kit is proving to be somewhat fiddly and time consuming.  I am also having to pause and think more because I am adding the additional storey height so the kit instructions are only being followed intermittently and in an ad hoc manner.  So, this is the latest state of play.

 

IMG_20200625_183148.jpg.09a930e9442cc32c55add669a315c3f5.jpg

 

The lever frame has been left for now.  The kit version is one of those "Life's too short" sort of builds as I have mentioned long ago when I built the other signal box so I will use an old comb (as I did on the previous 'box) or plastic strip.

 

Regards,

Brian.

Edited by Brian D
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More (slow) progress on the signal box has been made.  The kit provides for textures (grey paper parts) to be over laid on the various steps and landings .  This I thought a bit tedious so cut the required parts from 2mm grey board and painted them with grey acrylic before gluing them in place - see below.

 

IMG_20200629_180748comp.jpg.ce1bf48a90a77ebc7de1dcf7fa106161.jpg

 

I also made a representation of the lever frame in plastic strip and glued it in position.  I know it's a bit cluncky but by the time the windows are in you will barely see it.

 

IMG_20200702_170612comp.jpg.86b9d414d69594bb2fd14aaa0f43db5e.jpg

 

The kit also provides for card wrapped in paper texture handrails which again I thought would not only be tedious but a bit of a challenge for my sausage fingers.  So using the kit elements as a guide, plastic strip was used to make the handrails.  They say a picture is worth a thousand words so this pic will give you an idea how I managed it.  Various bits of Blu Tack and sellotape hold all the various plastic bits in position so I can give the joints a quick dab with the solvent brush.

 

IMG_20200702_150811comp.jpg.bc00bb57b8d691c76d33b3b667dee1d7.jpg

 

Quite a high Fiddle Factor using this technique and I and my eye sight are only glad its finished.

 

IMG_20200702_170229comp.jpg.a65a4e005418d6aae391f823319eca6d.jpg

 

Only windows and roof left to complete.

 

IMG_20200702_172842comp.jpg.d4bf56e7d07bc4b68b1bc27f5bfb121a.jpg

 

Getting there!

 

Regards,

Brian.

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On 02/07/2020 at 18:28, Brian D said:

*snip* 

 

The kit also provides for card wrapped in paper texture handrails which again I thought would not only be tedious but a bit of a challenge for my sausage fingers.  So using the kit elements as a guide, plastic strip was used to make the handrails.  They say a picture is worth a thousand words so this pic will give you an idea how I managed it.  Various bits of Blu Tack and sellotape hold all the various plastic bits in position so I can give the joints a quick dab with the solvent brush.

 

IMG_20200702_150811comp.jpg.bc00bb57b8d691c76d33b3b667dee1d7.jpg

 

Quite a high Fiddle Factor using this technique and I and my eye sight are only glad its finished.

 

 *snip*

 

Getting there!

 

Regards,

Brian.

Brian,

 

I do like that method, so I hope you don't mind me 'stealing' it for my layout. It'll come in really handy when I get to the station glass roofing.

 

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Final work on the signal box was completed yesterday and today.  The windows were installed...

 

IMG_20200704_142246comp.jpg.4cff736f8f3abb3821fc916afb2d7675.jpg

 

IMG_20200704_142256comp.jpg.1de337b8bb851c479c131d4ff3141e0c.jpg

 

...and the roof put in place.

 

IMG_20200704_145219comp.jpg.16d770a7d23fb5b4d6141f6ac9d45072.jpg

 

I used a different roof texture than the kit which I thought looked a bit dark.  I used Scalescenes "concrete" instead.  As you can see I also added a suitable sign before placing it on the layout.

 

IMG_20200704_152048comp.jpg.03a47b8ece9d99696f4140f4108569f2.jpg

 

Meanwhile, a DMU is about to depart whilst two other services await their path.

 

IMG_20200704_151742comp.jpg.07562fc7b26c583613eac1cfce77cf5a.jpg

 

In the colliery, a full hopper train is assembled...

 

IMG_20200704_152328comp.jpg.8484a5263ef9882566dfe3f84ec81241.jpg

 

...to be collected by the main line diesel.

 

IMG_20200704_153337comp.jpg.d4b23eb799b0db06567cd2843e3fcbe0.jpg

 

That's all for now.  I need to get my D20 finished.

 

Regards,

Brian.

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  • 2 weeks later...

 

In between work on my DJH D20 build (see my other thread) I've been experimenting with the free to download "CombineZP" focus stacking software using my DSLR.  So far, this is the pick of the results.

 

Result_6_cropped_etc.jpg.306868c85310baddd427b8e4a5c5a868.jpg

 

Regards,

Brian.

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  • 1 month later...

It has been a while since I posted any updates, basically because there has not been much to report.  However, I have been busy upgrading the scenics especially in the dene area by adding bushes and trees as below.

 

Stack_2_crop_etc.jpg.15f4f87411879f5bf7090cdc1ef92532.jpg

 

Stack_5_crop_etc_copy.jpg.0248a295847d6f34c3680960c869afa1.jpg

 

These images have been subject to focus stacking.

 

Regards,

Brian.

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  • 3 weeks later...

 

What's he doing fixing an old cycle mirror to the shed ceiling for???

 

IMG_20200920_163808.jpg.bf7fb344d7c92197114a6603b2ee1789.jpg

 

The reason is that this will be an aid to the manual (by eye) indexing of the turntable.  Hopefully, this will minimise derailments by giving a vertical view of the table rails alignment as below.

 

IMG_20200920_163900crop.jpg.8af0559cd1fef749f4f44235eee043d9.jpg

 

Meanwhile, we have a visitor from 36A (Doncaster).  A1 60156 "Great Central" stands alongside A3 60077 "The White Knight" of 56B (Ardsley).

 

IMG_20200920_164007.jpg.51dac1559f25b420234d838aa7c88daa.jpg

 

I've also been working on another coal train video.  Stay tuned.

 

Regards,

Brian.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

The Law of Unintended Consequences has been at work today!  For a while I have been thinking that my Accurascale 21 ton hoppers fitted with their bespoke coal loads look a little under filled so I thought I would raise them up a touch by gluing some corrugated card to their bases as shown (apologies for dodgy phone pics).

 

IMG_20201018_165150.jpg.917a6ca0d4f087fca83e8eacd367f4a6.jpg

 

This seemed to have improved the appearance considerably.

 

IMG_20201018_165128.jpg.e2eddf0e10cc7d8416fdd786ff19eb9e.jpg

 

But, the top of the coal load now fouled the underside of the screens so I raised the screens a little to compensate by adding some plastic sections to simulate  a concrete surround to the steel columns.

 

IMG_20201018_165257.jpg.80dfc9280ff09ba89e96b439cafdcc1d.jpg

 

But now the conveyor structure was levitating over its supports.

 

IMG_20201018_165306.jpg.d753d0b7bd82ed100cc3b6b7799f9a90.jpg

 

So some cross trees were installed.

 

IMG_20201018_174904.jpg.c940d95ae2de1514be3b703cd83fc95e.jpg

 

This has solved the problem.

 

IMG_20201018_175038.jpg.6a534b637eb1a4d8ea6b22fc8d32b04d.jpg

 

IMG_20201018_180309.jpg.9f8e46241a6acc065a7b13a013a24dc6.jpg

 

Everything has been raised up - haleluyah.

 

Regards,

Brian.

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G'Day Folks

 

Nice work, but it would have been a lot simpler to take a little cardboard out of the wagon........:)

 

manna

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