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Martin Finney retired


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ozzyo

 

I'm most grateful for the image.

 

Are those Martins cranks. I only ask as the kit arrived today without the cranks which will follow.

 

How did you fix the cranks to the Slaters axle. Was it with silver solder as per MF's instructions or an alternative method.

 

Regards

Bob

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Hello Bob,

 

if this works right it should take you to the start of building the inside valve gear for Anne.

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/70310-anne-and-me-from-the-das-kit-in-7mm/page-8

It should take you to mess. 183. Yes these are the Finney cranks, for the first fix I used Loctite 290 (cleaning all of the parts with meths first).

Drilling the holes for the cross pins, and fitting them.

post-8920-0-02579800-1416263550_thumb.jpg

post-8920-0-85392200-1416263572_thumb.jpg

post-8920-0-46864100-1416263591_thumb.jpg

 

The finished job after cutting out the bits of the axle,

post-8920-0-83473800-1416263866_thumb.jpg

 

HTH

 

OzzyO.

 

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Can't do that in 4mm scale. Have to silver solder instead.

 

Why.

 

What can't you do in 4mm. Cross drill, yes you can, all you use is a smaller drill and a parallel pin.

 

You don't need to use silver solder for any 4mm crank axle (how much force is it going to transmit?) A good joint with 188deg. solder will work. And be strong enough for all it's work.  

 

OzzyO.

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These are 4mm scale crank castings - quite thin in cross section. I suspect there would be quite a lot of broken drill bits.

Hi Horsetan

No need to cross drill the cranks or silver solder.  On Martins stand is a 7mm scale axle complete with eccentric sheaves, inside cranks and outside cranks mounted on a Slaters Axle.  I put that together many years ago when Martin first introduced the castings for use with his inside motion kits.  It is only soft soldered together and I think it still runs true after much handling.  I can also vouch that the soft solder route is strong enough in so far that a pannier tank I had just built decided that it would like to take flying lessons and hit the deck on the crank axle.  The chassis was bent upwards but the axle still ran true.

All you need to do is ream the axle holes so that they are a press fit on the axle, once positioned heat with a micro-blow torch and apply solder around the axle.  When fitting the cranks on the axle you will have to put a loose spacer between the side cheeks of the crank to stop it squeezing up.

Hope I have been of help.

 

Loconuts

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....All you need to do is ream the axle holes so that they are a press fit on the axle, once positioned heat with a micro-blow torch and apply solder around the axle.  When fitting the cranks on the axle you will have to put a loose spacer between the side cheeks of the crank to stop it squeezing up....

This is what I have done on the Collett Goods anyway (I bought a gas torch especially for that task), and will be doing much the same for a GNR(I) "S"-class 4-4-0.

 

What interested me was whether the 4mm cranks would take the cross-drilling method that "ozzyo" successfully employs in 7mm. Ozzy seems to think it will work in 4mm.

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This is what I have done on the Collett Goods anyway (I bought a gas torch especially for that task), and will be doing much the same for a GNR(I) "S"-class 4-4-0.

 

What interested me was whether the 4mm cranks would take the cross-drilling method that "ozzyo" successfully employs in 7mm. Ozzy seems to think it will work in 4mm.

Hi, Yes you can cross drill in 4mm scale if you have got the right equipment to do it, however you will be reducing the surface area of metal to solder to.  My question is why you would want to do it?  The cross drilling and pinning of the crank to the axle is to add strength to counter act the rotational load on the two items and as you are not using the cylinders to drive the loco there is no need to pin.

I fabricated my first cranked axles from separate components and I did cross drill them, basically to stop them from falling to bits, but you are using a one piece casting so there is no fear of that happening.  As long as the crank is a good tight fit on the axle and some solder around the web and axle is applied it will be strong enough for the service you require.

It takes a long while to build a loco, so why make extra work for yourself.

 

Loconuts 

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ozzyo

 

Great link by the way, sadly I don't have either a Mr Milling machine or Mr Dividing head so I shall have to consider other options for when I get around to doing the chassis. Just finished the tender and now making a start on the loco body

 

Hello Silverstreak,

 

have you got a thread going on the build of this loco? If you have would you please put a link up for it.

 

OzzyO.

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As an aside, there is a Finney 4mm scale city class on Ebay. No box, no instructions but the etchings and castings for the loco only (no tender) are going for 146 GBP. I guess someone really wants it! It will be interesting to build without instructions too.

 

Craig w

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As an aside, there is a Finney 4mm scale city class on Ebay. No box, no instructions but the etchings and castings for the loco only (no tender) are going for 146 GBP. I guess someone really wants it!

Probably the same eejit who paid 175GBP for a Blacksmith Railmotor kit recently.

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  • 4 months later...

According to his website today was the last day of trading for Martin Finney.

 

It appears he has sold the 4mm kit business but not the 7mm, but there is no indication who the new owner is, or when the kits may become available again.

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Glad he got a good deal for what he is selling.... the trouble begins when the purchaser needs to have "got a good deal" as well otherwise it could bounce from one owner to the next all trying to make money which may of may not be there..... 

 

Any how it reminds me I want one more of the kits in the shape of a A1/A3 which I have no idea.... Umm maybe later in the year. I hope the new owner also accepts Visa or Paypal and is not frightened to post anywhere in the world.  :yes:

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Glad he got a good deal for what he is selling.... the trouble begins when the purchaser needs to have "got a good deal" as well otherwise it could bounce from one owner to the next all trying to make money which may of may not be there..... 

 

Any how it reminds me I want one more of the kits in the shape of a A1/A3 which I have no idea.... Umm maybe later in the year. I hope the new owner also accepts Visa or Paypal and is not frightened to post anywhere in the world.  :yes:

 

I always found that Martin was an absolute pleasure to deal with. One of the best in my opinion. My final purchase was the 7mm scale Rover. My one and only 7mm scale loco!

 

Regards,

 

Craig W

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.... the trouble begins when the purchaser needs to have "got a good deal" as well otherwise it could bounce from one owner to the next all trying to make money which may or may not be there.....

 

It really depends on how committed the new owner is, and since he/they have not yet "run it up the flagpole to see if it flies", nobody knows!

 

With no stock left other than a few tender kits, some inside motion packs, and detail bits, the main challenge will be negotiating with the original suppliers of etches, castings, resin mouldings, etc. I'd expect price increases. If the new owner only intends to run things as a part-time sideline - or, potentially worse, as part of an empire - then it could be a very long time before we see anything again, if at all. History is littered with the ashes of example takeovers not going according to plan.

 

(Having said that, it would, for example, have made sense for someone like David Geen to have added the range to his existing line of Mitchell kits, and it would have unified two of the state-of-the-art names of the late 1980s/early 1990s, meaning you would have a one-stop shop for Great Western superkits, plus a relatively stable home for the LNER/LSWR department)

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No disagreement with me HorseTan. The problem is some one needs to decide to run the enterprise, which has the effect that they have to be able to deliver and keep stock for sale. The idea of a sale on an adhoc basis is no business plan. I see a large number of people running businesses that have no plan no direction and don't realise that people have to be able to find and pay for items. Hence my comment about using visa, PayPal etc. If you are selling a product and you only accept cheques or cash in this day and age. It is likely to go the way of a dinosaur. Here in Australia trades men can now get a card reader on their smart phone. So I hope the new owner is some one like Andrew from wizard models who is looking to further his business with new opportunities. Here's to the future owner to expand the range with the same style of design!

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....Here in Australia tradesmen can now get a card reader on their smart phone. ...

 

This has been available over here for some time - even PayPal distributes such readers to business sellers who want them. Dart Castings uses exactly this machine at shows.

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