GWR8700 Posted January 2, 2017 Share Posted January 2, 2017 It's good that yours can hall. Mine was reluctant to move itself! Lets see what the replacement is like. :Luke Let me know how it is, hope it works! All these problems are certainly putting me off their 1361 class. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
luke_stevens Posted January 3, 2017 Share Posted January 3, 2017 Let me know how it is, hope it works! All these problems are certainly putting me off their 1361 class. At the moment I'm trying to get it from the local Royal Mail District office. It seems to have arrived but no card was put through the door. Without a card I can't collect it. Have been on phone to RM and a new card is in process so it shouldnb't bee too long. Most of the others seem to be happy with theirs. I suspect I just had a rouge one... I'll keep you guys up-dated. Luke Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Dunsignalling Posted January 3, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 3, 2017 Let me know how it is, hope it works! All these problems are certainly putting me off their 1361 class. For the 1361, unlike the 1366, you will have an alternative source. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Roy Langridge Posted January 3, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 3, 2017 At the moment I'm trying to get it from the local Royal Mail District office. It seems to have arrived but no card was put through the door. Without a card I can't collect it. Have been on phone to RM and a new card is in process so it shouldnb't bee too long. Most of the others seem to be happy with theirs. I suspect I just had a rouge one... I'll keep you guys up-dated. Luke Good luck. I had 3 parcels stuck like that when they tried to deliver them on the same day - no cards left. Never did get one of them. Roy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
luke_stevens Posted January 3, 2017 Share Posted January 3, 2017 Good luck. I had 3 parcels stuck like that when they tried to deliver them on the same day - no cards left. Never did get one of them. Roy I had a good chat with the customer service dept this afternoon. They took it all seriously: not only booking a re-delivery (so I could get a card to collect if I wanted) but they put in a formal complaint on my behalf! Methinks not for first time. I was in the house and heard the letterbox when the parcel didn't arrive. I have no doubt that bit never even left the sorting office. Soon, soon... Luke Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
GWR8700 Posted January 4, 2017 Share Posted January 4, 2017 For the 1361, unlike the 1366, you will have an alternative source. Yeah, the problems with the Heljan 1366 that people are having are putting me off. While mine is now fine and I'm quite pleased with it now it's working properly the amounts issues people have been happening isn't good. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold adb968008 Posted January 4, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 4, 2017 I find this link works without a card... https://www.royalmail.com/personal/receiving-mail/redelivery/book just chose "the card doesnt say". Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gooderz Posted January 5, 2017 Share Posted January 5, 2017 Anyone interested, I have provided a sound fitting guide in the DCC fitting section Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerrySVR Posted January 5, 2017 Share Posted January 5, 2017 Just taken delivery of 1366 ran perfectly forward but refused to go backwards so returned. Pity stunning model. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
luke_stevens Posted January 5, 2017 Share Posted January 5, 2017 Well I finally managed to get it delivered (not quite sure how!). Large sticker on the box "Tested by Hattons". It's a lovely runner! None of the old issues. Smooth! They have obviously given it a bit of running in just to make sure. In terms of side play there is quite a bit on the front axle (which means it could catch the valve gear, a bit on the middle and just about some on the rear. At some point I might open it up just to have a look :0, but I'm happy with it now. Go out ang buy one but make sure it's tested first! Luke 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Johnster Posted January 7, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 7, 2017 I've noticed mine usually needs a push before going, then it moves just fine but if it doesn't get a push then it's usually stopped still. Do you reckon this is related to the wheels being too tight in the chassis like with yours? Don't really want to send it back if possible. As has been said this is quite likely to be overtight screws on the keeper plate, and tbh I doubt if slackening them off a quarter turn will affect the warranty, but there is the point that a brand new model should run perfectly after the recommended running in. Assuming you've done that and it still won't start reliably, I would personally slacken the keeper plate screws a quarter turn, test run it, and if the problem is still there send it back; once you start removing things like keeper plates there's always a chance of losing a screw or something, and it may need further attention or replacing. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
luke_stevens Posted January 7, 2017 Share Posted January 7, 2017 (edited) There isn't one cover plate; there are two! The first cover plate just holds down the pickup strips. Loosening this won't make a lot of difference. Loosening the screws on the second cover plate, which actually holds the wheels in place, does make a lot of difference! You can get to the wheels, slide them back an forth and have adjust the pick-up strips so they actually tough the back of each wheel at all times. On the underside of the first cover plate no channel has been made for the wires to the pickup strips which increases pressure on the rear axle. Oddly, if you look at the break shoes you can see where the surface details has all been cut away (otherwise it would be clouted by the coupling rods). The screws feel that they have been put in by machine and are too tight. I also feel that the first cover plate is too long. Cutting it back to uncover the screws on the second cover plate and stop it pressing on the axle channel;s would be a good idea. I have't done it yet but will look into it! Fundamentally it feels a rushed job. Rather than checking all the design work is ok, Heljan have rushed ahead with the chassis. It feels unready. I've fitted a Gaugemaster 6pin chip DCC23 and it is very easy to fit: the complete cab comes away exactly as the instructions suggest. The cab floor is glued into the cab moulding so it will need a bit of work to get inside. Oddly the backhead seems to be painted GWR green... In conclusion it's a very nice model but it needs to tweaking before it can really show how good it is. Please with it, and pleased I've been able to get it to show how good it can be! Luke PS Don't like the moulded cabside number plates; they are going to be a pain to remove! Edited January 7, 2017 by luke_stevens Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
GWR8700 Posted January 7, 2017 Share Posted January 7, 2017 As has been said this is quite likely to be overtight screws on the keeper plate, and tbh I doubt if slackening them off a quarter turn will affect the warranty, but there is the point that a brand new model should run perfectly after the recommended running in. Assuming you've done that and it still won't start reliably, I would personally slacken the keeper plate screws a quarter turn, test run it, and if the problem is still there send it back; once you start removing things like keeper plates there's always a chance of losing a screw or something, and it may need further attention or replacing. Thanks, mine is working a lot better now. The running in and loosening the screws has sorted out the problem. I still need to have it pulling some coaches but I've been quite busy recently meaning I haven't yet had chance. It's a very good model and I'm impressed by it now it's working but given the numerous issues people have had I'm put off the 1361 class and might hold out for the Kernow version to at least make up my mind. The only issue I have with the model right now is how far the buffers stick out. Other than that, very happy with it now! Anyone know how to sort that out? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gooderz Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 Thanks, mine is working a lot better now. The running in and loosening the screws has sorted out the problem. I still need to have it pulling some coaches but I've been quite busy recently meaning I haven't yet had chance. It's a very good model and I'm impressed by it now it's working but given the numerous issues people have had I'm put off the 1361 class and might hold out for the Kernow version to at least make up my mind. The only issue I have with the model right now is how far the buffers stick out. Other than that, very happy with it now! Anyone know how to sort that out? I'm glueing the buffers back a little on my model. End of the day, sprung buffers are pretty pointless Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVE1562 Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 (edited) Hi all... apart from noticing the tight wheels which was cured by slightly loosening the 2nd coverplate screws and replacing the couplings for Bachmann short straight which i intended to do anyway for staple fit(aka brian kirby coupling)... the model runs sweet... even better now a stay alive has been fitted, used a zen 6 pin nano. the stay alive is on the cab floor and cannot be seen, the only modification was to drill a 2mm hole in the cab floor to route the wires to decoder... Edited January 8, 2017 by DAVE1562 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cctransuk Posted January 9, 2017 Share Posted January 9, 2017 odd question here Has anyone stripped their loco down to the last screw as i will fit mine with sound but can seem to find a way to strip it apart to get the weight out of the tanks to mill a slot out of it to put the sound chip in it as a miro loksound wont fit in the bunker or cab without being visually obtrusive. Mine was picked-up this morning. Unfortuately, under any load, the gears slip out of engagement somewhere in the transmission. There doesn't seem to be any obvious way of accessing the motor / gearbox so I'm afraid that it'll be going back. I would strongly suggest asking your supplier to check that the model will spin its wheels when buffered-up to a stop-block. Not what I've come to expect from my previous Heljan (diesel) purchases. Regards, John Isherwood. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold adb968008 Posted January 9, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 9, 2017 (edited) My replacement arrived today from Sheffield, having been road tested before sending. Got chance to test it on my xmas present (gaugemaster LT, comes in a wooden box). The second one is a world of difference from the first, runs from the outset, peak draw was 0.275a, when held and run to max, as seen with a little help from my junior tester... Running draw on rollers is 0.1amp. The casting looks much better on this chassis, to my previous also. No sign of the motor slipping on the gears, all seems fine, now just need to add that bell again. Overall opinion, this is a good one, close but not quite to Bachmanns 64xx, though this has sprung buffers unlike Bachmanns, and self centering coupling which is good for tight curves, but I think this has good haulage potential, much more than normal, I will try tomorrow, had DJ's 14xx not been released I'd be giving this a high score, the DJ beats this on etched / flush numberplates and smokebox, but the 13xx is going to beat it on haulage... I just feel it. If I were to rate the recent GWR releases in my opinion, 1st is the DJ 14xx.. it innovates, the smokebox and cabside plates do work and make a difference, it looks fantastic but doesn't pull, needs weight, but runs superb. 2nd is the Bachmann 64xx, looks fantastic, the detail is superb my only gripe is the sprung buffers, pulls what it needs. 3rd is the 1366, has the haulage, looks good, but errr it just feels like I've gone back a year or two, it stands above, but would fit well amongst the upgraded Bachmann 57xx panniers. As for price it is the most expensive, but it's relative, this is a small class with limited geography and livery potential, it's not as attractive or boutique as the Beattie, so a premium is ok by me and I'm glad they've done it, there was never any doubt about going for a replacement instead of a refund on the 1st one, this "unusual" prototype nature fits Heljans approach all round in diesel and steam and is in my opinion to be encouraged. As for the 1360..with this and the 14xx gives me a good feel as to what to expect, jury's out on which one I'll buy, based on my experience to date suggests the Heljan one will pull more, but the DJ one may out detail it, perhaps I'll put a Heljan chassis under a DJ one, I seem to have both on order. ??? Edited January 9, 2017 by adb968008 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garethp8873 Posted January 10, 2017 Share Posted January 10, 2017 I received my GWR 1370 from my supplier today. Whilst I am pleased with it bar the lettering, the body is on a slant rather than horizontal with the chassis. Has anyone else had this situation and if so is it easy to rectify? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Trainshed Terry Posted January 10, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 10, 2017 My one arrived today and is currently having a running seson on the rolling road. I have not come across any defects. Terry. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gooderz Posted January 14, 2017 Share Posted January 14, 2017 Here's mine fitted with sound, stay alive and flickering firebox (not visible in the clip). Sounds are my latest sound project. 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
luke_stevens Posted January 14, 2017 Share Posted January 14, 2017 (edited) Ok, final modifications done. Took it down to my local modelshop and they couldn't believe the difference. It's a smooth, easily controllable loco with good slow speed. Runs as well as my Model Rail USA dock tank, which is saying something! If it had behaved like this when it had arrived I would have been very impressed. At least it is possible to make it this good. As you can see I've trimmed the first coverplate back at both ends such that it is no longer pressing on the second coverplate screws and it no longer presses on the piece covering the axle. At the far end I've also trimmed it so thta ti doen't push on the pick-up wired. I've also tweaked the pick-ups so that they keep the wheels centred and pick up from both sides. I still have two criticisms. 1) The wheels get grubby quickly. They are not polished smooth and this can make the pick-up erratic on less than perfectly clean track. 2) There is too much side play on the front axle. This means that it can catch on the rear of the connecting rod which jams the valve gear. The first should improve with running, the second can be solved by some spacing washers / a couple of bits of palsticard glued behind the front wheels. But I'm happy with what 1368 has now become Luke Edited January 14, 2017 by luke_stevens 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
luke_stevens Posted January 14, 2017 Share Posted January 14, 2017 Here's mine fitted with sound, stay alive and flickering firebox (not visible in the clip). Sounds are my latest sound project. Lovely! I like the bell at the end! Several questions: Which sound chip did you use? And which stay-alive? Zimo? Is the sound file available pre-loaded or as a download? I think there is a slight trace of the firebox flicker viable in the corner between the tank, the cab and the running plate! Luke Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gooderz Posted January 14, 2017 Share Posted January 14, 2017 Lovely! I like the bell at the end! Several questions: Which sound chip did you use? And which stay-alive? Zimo? Is the sound file available pre-loaded or as a download? I think there is a slight trace of the firebox flicker viable in the corner between the tank, the cab and the running plate! Luke I used a ESU loksound V4 loaded with the Chinnor and Princes Risborough Railway 1366 sound project (recorded and made by me). i made my own stay alive with 5 100uF smd capacitors i fitted round the sugar cube speaker in the bunker. sound file will be available next week - if you want more info, drop me a pm. watching the video, i does appear a slight trace of flicker is creeping through, will tackle it when im feeling brave enough to take it apart again! Jamie Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Neal Ball Posted January 15, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 15, 2017 Great sound Jamie. To date I haven't added sound to any of my panniers, but listening to yours I think I might give it a go. Thanks for sharing. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold adb968008 Posted January 15, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 15, 2017 The comparison to the USA for haulage us a good one, I have a silly 1" in 2ft gradient, which this and the USA will both take 3 up without a fight. I have found at even relatively low speeds, it will stall out in a 3 way point, the rest are ok, I just think it's an unlucky matching of the wheel base to the plastic frogs separation on the 3 way insulfrog point. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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