RMweb Gold 30801 Posted February 4, 2015 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted February 4, 2015 I have never soldered a kit however. I will practice first making a few comet chassis kits and I quite fancy having a crack at this little gem from conniseur models. Looks ideal to get started. http://www.jimmcgeown.com/Loco%20Kit%20Pages/Starter%20Loco.html Heartily recommend the Connoisseur kit. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted February 4, 2015 Share Posted February 4, 2015 Well thanks for the tips. I would prefer solder as I see this being more permanent with superglue not getting on well with oil which it's likely to come in contact with I think solder is the only way. I have never soldered a kit however. I will practice first making a few comet chassis kits and I quite fancy having a crack at this little gem from conniseur models. Looks ideal to get started. http://www.jimmcgeown.com/Loco%20Kit%20Pages/Starter%20Loco.html Just remember that, when soldering, more solder does not make for a better joint, only an untidy one. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ROSSPOP Posted February 4, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 4, 2015 Rob I think you have made a very wise decision. Learning to solder opens up many benefits in all aspects of this hobby. If you are a total beginner I would recommend looking at Carrs solder and flux products as well as the Antex soldering irons available at Amazon. 40watt for 7mm ...... 25 to 30 watt for 4mm. Regards John 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Hayes Posted February 4, 2015 Share Posted February 4, 2015 I am ok with soldering for decoders and repairs etc I have done a hell of a lot of that in my time but as for soldering kits and getting neat lines that is a new thing for me. I'm guessing it requires more skil that how you would use a blow torch on copper pipes Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ROSSPOP Posted February 4, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 4, 2015 Just the same Rob....... Plenty of heat for the job in hand.... The right flux for the metal being soldered so that the solder will flow.................asbestos fingers..... But failing that ....loads of the metal hairdressing clips John 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted February 4, 2015 Share Posted February 4, 2015 Enough heat, ultra clean joint and decent flux. There are more fluxes than modellers, by the look of a few threads on here. I like this stuff: http://www.7mmlocomotives.co.uk//index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=1&category_id=1&manufacturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=52 Does the job and not too aggressive, needing less cleaning up. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Hayes Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 Thanks for he help guys, I need to invest in a good solder station first me thinks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 I was lucky: I found a Weller WSD80 soldering station, plus a dozen spare tips (at about £5 each normal price), on ebay, and won it for just under £80!! However...I then proceeded to lose the tips, only finding them again by chance about 6 months ago. Rolls eyes. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Hayes Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 I hope I am lucky to nab a bargain like that. I would like one with a de solderer too Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 I use "solder wick", it's like woven copper strands impregnated with some flux, you apply to the solder, heat with the iron and it "sucks up" all but a very fine layer. Bought mine off a well-known auction site. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 30801 Posted February 15, 2015 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted February 15, 2015 Cab roof time. I managed to crease the panel around the vents so they'll be placed open to cover that one up... Looks like there may be some issues with the fit of the roof. It's thicker than the brass one in the DJH kit and I don't think they've made allowance for it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 30801 Posted February 23, 2015 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted February 23, 2015 (edited) A little more progress. Cab doors. The hinges here are a bit different to the Piercy kit although the etches appear to be the same. There's a big 'U' shaped bit of wire soldered to the back of the door. Whatever the original arrangement was it appears to be more dainty. I added the roof rail now to aid positioning when I come to add the roof. The cab sides are thin and need all the support they can get. Plumbing added to the boiler and the cab epoxied in place. I got the roof (still loose here) to sit a little lower with a bit of bending and thinning the metal towards the centre. Edited February 23, 2015 by 30801 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 30801 Posted March 2, 2015 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 2, 2015 More stuff: Tender chassis. Simple fold-up box. Then on to the cab roof. This I think is going to catch a few people out, so beware part-built Mallards on eBay... After a bit of bending, filing & fettling I got it to sit reasonably well against the boiler. and along the cab. For sticking I decided to concentrate on the front edge first since that's fixed. Get that lined up & glued solid first. The rest of the cab can adjust to fit and be glued later. A nice thing here are cast springs & hornblocks on the frames. The Flying Scotsman partwork just had springs etched as part of the frames. That cab again. With glue set now. It's going to need a little filler to disguise how the cab is actually cut into the boiler... 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted March 2, 2015 Share Posted March 2, 2015 It's looking the part, mind. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 30801 Posted March 29, 2015 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 29, 2015 (edited) A little bit more. This is the magical bit of white metal that allows the chassis to attach to the body. It needed a fair bit filing off for the chassis to sit level. Also the 'wings' on the front of the chassis needed considerable butchering to allow the chassis to sit against the buffer beam. The insides of the castings must be quite different to the DJH original. There's some more tender chassis too. And a chimney! It looks strange with a chimney after so long without one. Edited March 29, 2015 by 30801 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ray w price Posted June 1, 2015 Share Posted June 1, 2015 Hi All,Been looking at this A4 it is a bit pricey but if you do not want to pay out for a complete kit it is the best way to make one.Has anyone tried the old Acme model,I bought one of the last ones sold by Acme before it was sold it cost me £290 a couple of years ago but you had to roll the boiler in different parts and solder them instead of a casting. Ray. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted June 1, 2015 Share Posted June 1, 2015 I wonder if you could substitute the boiler assembly from the Hachette kit onto the ACME model? The ACME one has decent chassis, valvegear, cab etc and a decent tender too. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ray w price Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 Hi Jeff, The Acme is a good kit but to put the Hachette boiler on it no it would need a lot of hacking as the chassis is three parts. Ray. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAD Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 Hi Jeff, The Acme is a good kit but to put the Hachette boiler on it no it would need a lot of hacking as the chassis is three parts. Ray. Hi Ray, And why would you throw away perfectly good etchings? I've built the Acme model which although quite a difficult build, can be made into a very nice model. I don't like to high jack other people's threads so I'll send you a picture via a PM. cheers, Peter Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted June 3, 2015 Share Posted June 3, 2015 Could you send me one too, please? I've wondered about the ACME model, but accurately bending, mating and soldering all those bits has me scared. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ray w price Posted June 3, 2015 Share Posted June 3, 2015 Hi all,Peter the A4 I am making is Sir Nigel G.Have finished loco and half finished the tender,yours looks good.Jeff have a go depending on how many loco's you have done and soldering.But you have friends for help and my e-mail address is in this web. Ray Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
66250 Posted July 30, 2015 Share Posted July 30, 2015 Hi All I Have just received issue 41, and i found that the bogie pivot and CH screw were missing so i rang Hachette and got another issue delivered, and guess what! bogie and screw were missing from is one too Has anybody else had this problem? Not sure what to do as im not sure the women on the phone lines would be of any help?? apart from sending me more issues? Many thanks Simon..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ROSSPOP Posted July 30, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 30, 2015 Hi Simon Old news .....known manufacturing problem pivot will be in issue 57 Replacement wheels in issue 52 Regards John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
66250 Posted July 31, 2015 Share Posted July 31, 2015 Hi John Many thanks for your information, can i ask whats the problem with the wheels?? Many thanks Simon..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 30801 Posted July 31, 2015 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted July 31, 2015 can i ask whats the problem with the wheels?? Quartering is completely random! http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/81382-mallard-partwork/page-22&do=findComment&comment=1946063 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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