LCUT creative

[LCUT_creative]

The arch as shown in 148?

 

Perfect!

 

A short (hopefully) bout of saving-up will be followed by an order for canopy and arch components.

 

A many thanks!

 

Kevin

 

If I understand you right yes this is the 7mm arch. You would need 15 arch units (the arch with embankments is 237mm and without which is what interests you is 216mm). If you are ordering them just put a note through PayPal that you need the modified ones and we will change the arch faces in the packs.

[LCUT_creative]

The arch as shown in 148?

 

Perfect!

 

A short (hopefully) bout of saving-up will be followed by an order for canopy and arch components.

 

A many thanks!

 

Kevin

 

Just for posterity here is a picture of the prototype:

 

[Redgauntlet1946]

Hi,

Just got my first Kit plus a few bits for add-ons and they look very promising. A couple of thoughts though:

 

Do you have any plans to introduce internal partitions?

 

Would the problems of differing bonds be helped if you were to make Quoins from a similar material to the roof ridge tiles? These would disguise the corners quite well and they normally stand out from the main face of the wall so would look quite good IMHO. If you could make them work it could lead to using blockwork as well as varieties of brick bond.

 

I plan to use some of the offcuts to make window sills. Might they be offered in the future?

 

Just thinking out loud really but I will be needing quite a lot of buildings etc in the coming years and your product is in pole position.

 

Best regards

 

Ian

[LCUT_creative]

Hi Ian,

 

Thank you for your comments! We already have quins and they are used on one of the buildings (http://lcut.co.uk/index.php?product=B%2000-02&title=B%2000-02). The issue with interlocking and different brick bonds is not only corners but also the elements in the middle of the wall. In our testing we have found out that often the bricks would dislodge themselves when you push the parts in.

 

That is not a bad idea regarding the window sills. We could do that in future. No idea when it would happen because we would need to modify the window blisters. Thank you for giving use the idea!

 

Best regards

Jakub

[Redgauntlet1946]

Hi Jakub,

 

Another minor issue, now that I am assembling some of your components. I am having difficulty keeping the sides of the doors parallel (in LC-OO-06 for example). Could the design be modified to include a bar or spacer at the bottom which could be cut out after construction? Once everything is glued together the extra rigidity will mean the door sides will remain parallel. I realise it's probably a big change for you to change the masters and update the instructions. Possibly one to bear in mind for the future?

 

Regards

Ian

[LCUT_creative]

Hi Jakub,

 

Another minor issue, now that I am assembling some of your components. I am having difficulty keeping the sides of the doors parallel (in LC-OO-06 for example). Could the design be modified to include a bar or spacer at the bottom which could be cut out after construction? Once everything is glued together the extra rigidity will mean the door sides will remain parallel. I realise it's probably a big change for you to change the masters and update the instructions. Possibly one to bear in mind for the future?

 

Regards

Ian

 

Hi Again Ian,

 

I am not 100% sure what you are referring to (LCC 02-06 station door panel?). We already supply a set of corner and wall supports with the bundles which are supposed to mitigate this problem. The instructions could do with updating and we are slowly working our way through them to bring them to a better standard.

[Redgauntlet1946]

Hi Jakub,

 

What I'm suggesting is as per the attached modified photo of your door panel. The black bit at the bottom could be left in the door frame and marked "Remove after Assembly".

 

The problem I'm addressing is that I feel it is essential to get the brick Bond to mesh correctly and fully to ensure the join is as invisible as possible and with my level of dexterity it is proving to be more challenging to do the door section which is less stable than the similar sized windows, for example. It is also possible to over stress the junction between the side and the top of the panel and this would also be helped by the stiffener.

 

I don't think your instructions are all that bad. Perhaps more emphasis on The Manual & Guide would be useful as I suspect that most people will be modifying your designs to suit their individual needs.

 

Regards

 

Ian

[LCUT_creative]

Hi Jakub,

 

What I'm suggesting is as per the attached modified photo of your door panel. The black bit at the bottom could be left in the door frame and marked "Remove after Assembly".

 

The problem I'm addressing is that I feel it is essential to get the brick Bond to mesh correctly and fully to ensure the join is as invisible as possible and with my level of dexterity it is proving to be more challenging to do the door section which is less stable than the similar sized windows, for example. It is also possible to over stress the junction between the side and the top of the panel and this would also be helped by the stiffener.

 

I don't think your instructions are all that bad. Perhaps more emphasis on The Manual & Guide would be useful as I suspect that most people will be modifying your designs to suit their individual needs.

 

Regards

 

IanDoor spacer.jpg

 

 

Thank you for the clarification! It makes perfect sense now! I didn't understand what you meant because I always glue the door panel first and then join it to other wall elements. I never came across this problem because of that. I will see what we can do in that department.

 

Regarding the manuals. Elements from the main guide I made years ago are now being incorporated into the individual manuals. Which is also what I think you are referring to. I am also incorporating a lot more written hints and tips in them.

[LCUT_creative]

Introducing north light style engine shed

 

Designed for more modern image railways. Currently available in 4mm scale but 7mm scale version is coming soon!

 

 

 

http://lcut.co.uk/index.php?product=B%2000-29&title=B%2000-29

[Kelly]

Impressive range so far. The  bridge items might prove useful at a later date.

 

The engine shed could also be adaptable to what I'm after, though finding decent photos online to illustrate what I mean is proving difficult atm (I'm referring to the Lillie Bridge Depot LT steam shed).

 

 

 

Thats about the best photo of the front i've been able to find online, there are better photos around in books etc however.

[LCUT_creative]

Impressive range so far. The  bridge items might prove useful at a later date.

 

The engine shed could also be adaptable to what I'm after, though finding decent photos online to illustrate what I mean is proving difficult atm (I'm referring to the Lillie Bridge Depot LT steam shed).

 

 

 

Thats about the best photo of the front i've been able to find online, there are better photos around in books etc however.

 

It could certainly be adapted! You would need some gables and roof struts but it shouldn't be too difficult.

[LCUT_creative]

Impressive range so far. The  bridge items might prove useful at a later date.

 

The engine shed could also be adaptable to what I'm after, though finding decent photos online to illustrate what I mean is proving difficult atm (I'm referring to the Lillie Bridge Depot LT steam shed).

 

 

 

Thats about the best photo of the front i've been able to find online, there are better photos around in books etc however.

 

Further adding to this this sparked our intrest:

 

 

Do you know what window type is on the sides? Is it something similar to our standard LCC 04-49?

[Kelly]

Further adding to this this sparked our intrest:

 

 

Do you know what window type is on the sides? Is it something similar to our standard LCC 04-49?

Only photo I've found online that shows the side is at http://plumbloco.smugmug.com/Trains/London-Transport-Steam/ the 16th photo on the page(can't share the photo directly)

The angle doesn't look quite right on the image you posted however, looks too sharp.

[LCUT_creative]

Only photo I've found online that shows the side is at http://plumbloco.smugmug.com/Trains/London-Transport-Steam/ the 16th photo on the page(can't share the photo directly)

The angle doesn't look quite right on the image you posted however, looks too sharp.

 

I am sorry but I can't see it on any of the photos. The 16th doesn't show the building at all. The roof angle can always be changed.

[Kelly]

I am sorry but I can't see it on any of the photos. The 16th doesn't show the building at all. The roof angle can always be changed.

 

Sorry, I couldn't link to it properly as was on my phone when I posted the link previously.

Try this link.

[Dungrange]

Can you select the individual image first and then copy and paste the address bar URL?  eg http://plumbloco.smugmug.com/Trains/London-Transport-Steam/i-LQ7rmQ2/A  The part of the URL is individual to each photograph as I'm also not sure which image you are referring to.

[Kelly]

It is difficult to link to that site due to the sites settings. But does this work?

[Barnaby]

Not for me K. loading wheel just keeps spinning.
 
EDIT  works for me too now.

Edited March 23, 2016 by Barnaby

[Kelly]

Odd it works here. Nevermind I'll see if I can find another elsewhere.

[Dungrange]

It is difficult to link to that site due to the sites settings. But does this work?

 

Yes, it works for me.  I assume you are referring to the building on the right of the image and the view is in almost exactly the opposite direction from the image in post #160.  It is certainly a very cramped and busy site.

 

Edited to change 'left' to 'right'.

Edited March 23, 2016 by Dungrange

[Kelly]

Yes, it works for me.  I assume you are referring to the building on the left of the image and the view is in almost exactly the opposite direction from the image in post #160.  It is certainly a very cramped and busy site.

 

I am meaning the building with the big horrid ventilators on the roof. The other building is the electric car shed.

 

It has changed considerably since then. On the right past the shed is the p-way area where trackwork was assembled and trains for the p-way maintenance were assembled (which the Panniers et al would power).

[Dungrange]

I am meaning the building with the big horrid ventilators on the roof. The other building is the electric car shed.

 

Yes, that's the one that I was referring to, but unfortunately I typed left instead of right. Doh!!!

[bertiedog]

Just completed the first of a pack of Lcut kits, the small loco shed, very impressed with the quality of the parts in the system. I used an old aero modelling trick for glueing, coating one side of the joint with PVA and the other side with Cyano, makes a well filled very strong joint that sets quickly. I also have spray finished the parts with thinned down dope based sanding sealer, which gives a fine surface that is waterproof, and takes further grey or red car primer sprayed on. The red oxide can be used as the base colour of red brick work.

 

The Cellulose sealer works well on the window frames, making them a bit stronger stronger than stock..

 

The price of the packs is also very attractive. The only comment on the design is there are not enough internal bracing parts specified, it needs more and thicker material, like Bristol board, plasticard, perspex, or plywood added for floors etc, especially if interiors are needed as with the Signal Boxes. Perspex works well with PVA on the laser cut part and superglue on the perspex.

 

Personally I like the buildings to be removable, and the base I use is thin ply, with a sheet of perspex in the base, so that the building fits snugly over the ply, leaving no gap or visible edge. This ensures easy access for interiors and lighting parts.

 

On the bricks occasionally coming away from the parts surface, it is perfect as it adds the realism of spalled bricks! It may be slow, but I tend to add the bricks colour brick by brick, varying the shades, then pick out burnt bricks and then dry brush white down wards with black upwards. First Lcut parts done like this look fantastic.

 

A small country station building is next project, this will use the parts from the Lcut kits plus some extra bits and pieces like guttering and down pipes, and custom bargeboard ends to the roofs.

 

It is so nice to see a sensible use of CNC laser cutting in the way Lcut have introduced,

 

Stephen.

[LCUT_creative]

Just completed the first of a pack of Lcut kits, the small loco shed, very impressed with the quality of the parts in the system. I used an old aero modelling trick for glueing, coating one side of the joint with PVA and the other side with Cyano, makes a well filled very strong joint that sets quickly. I also have spray finished the parts with thinned down dope based sanding sealer, which gives a fine surface that is waterproof, and takes further grey or red car primer sprayed on. The red oxide can be used as the base colour of red brick work.

 

The Cellulose sealer works well on the window frames, making them a bit stronger stronger than stock..

 

The price of the packs is also very attractive. The only comment on the design is there are not enough internal bracing parts specified, it needs more and thicker material, like Bristol board, plasticard, perspex, or plywood added for floors etc, especially if interiors are needed as with the Signal Boxes. Perspex works well with PVA on the laser cut part and superglue on the perspex.

 

Personally I like the buildings to be removable, and the base I use is thin ply, with a sheet of perspex in the base, so that the building fits snugly over the ply, leaving no gap or visible edge. This ensures easy access for interiors and lighting parts.

 

On the bricks occasionally coming away from the parts surface, it is perfect as it adds the realism of spalled bricks! It may be slow, but I tend to add the bricks colour brick by brick, varying the shades, then pick out burnt bricks and then dry brush white down wards with black upwards. First Lcut parts done like this look fantastic.

 

A small country station building is next project, this will use the parts from the Lcut kits plus some extra bits and pieces like guttering and down pipes, and custom bargeboard ends to the roofs.

 

It is so nice to see a sensible use of CNC laser cutting in the way Lcut have introduced,

 

Stephen.

 

Thank you for your feedback!

 

Great to hear you liked the product.

 

That is certainly an interesting way of approaching the painting. I am in the process of getting an airbrush setup so will be able to experiment with it.

 

Also great to hear you found a way of improving the strength of the window frames. We do our best to make them as fine as possible but it does mean they are fragile.

 

There is not much more we can do regarding the internal bracing without rising the cost. I understand some modelers prefer the building to be removable but they are generally designed to be glued down and admired.

 

Again thank you for the detailed feedback!

[LCUT_creative]

I am meaning the building with the big horrid ventilators on the roof. The other building is the electric car shed.

 

It has changed considerably since then. On the right past the shed is the p-way area where trackwork was assembled and trains for the p-way maintenance were assembled (which the Panniers et al would power).

 

Thank you. I can see what window type it would need now. I can't promise anything but I will have a look at it.