cromptonnut Posted September 21, 2014 Share Posted September 21, 2014 Just wondering what others are doing as regards legs for modular layouts. I haven't got that far yet and in the past have tended to over-engineer these things, so I'd be grateful for any tips or advice on what others are considering. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Robin Posted September 25, 2014 Share Posted September 25, 2014 I've used 2 pieces 18 by 44mm PSE timber, glue to form an L girder. One is a bit shorter than the other, so the module frame, rather than the top, rests on the legs. 2 Legs are joined by some 6mm ply to form a double "H" shape. At the top I used a bit more timber to form a slot in the inner side of the module, and at the bottom some adjustable feet from Station Road Baseboards (no connection, but excellent service) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Shedman5 Posted September 25, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 25, 2014 Hi you could try these from Aldi, mentioned on the Bargain thread, Aldi have their metal legs in stock again on Sundayhttps://www.aldi.co....pose-support-1/ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cromptonnut Posted September 25, 2014 Author Share Posted September 25, 2014 I aleady have a couple of those (or something very similar) but they are quite heavy and also if I'm needing a dozen sets eventually it could work out rather prohibitively expensive Also they're too wide for the 18" modular standard. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Robin Posted September 25, 2014 Share Posted September 25, 2014 Mine were seven pounds or so in materials per H section, and the paint was probably a bit excessive - but rather longer to make... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted September 27, 2014 Share Posted September 27, 2014 I've used 2 pieces 18 by 44mm PSE timber, glue to form an L girder. One is a bit shorter than the other, so the module frame, rather than the top, rests on the legs. 2 Legs are joined by some 6mm ply to form a double "H" shape. At the top I used a bit more timber to form a slot in the inner side of the module, and at the bottom some adjustable feet from Station Road Baseboards (no connection, but excellent service)20140920_module_1.jpg20140920_module_2.jpg Very neat indeed, even the underside has a coat of paint !! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Robin Posted September 28, 2014 Share Posted September 28, 2014 A bit of white primer will certainly make it easier to see the banana sockets in the gloom once the module is upright Robin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve-e Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 Just found these on Ebay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Model-Railway-Baseboards-LEG-PACK-Modular-Laser-Cut-Base-Boards-/381114583108?pt=UK_Trains_Railway_Models&hash=item58bc330844 They dont look to bad and are height adjustable as you fill in the middle (leg) part. Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve-e Posted April 5, 2015 Share Posted April 5, 2015 Just looking at legs which hopefully are this weeks project. Is it better to have them at the end of the board up against the end board, a few inches in ? or some distance proportional to the length of the board? Also curved boards just a set of legs at each end or a set in the middle also? Any more photos or diagrams hugely appreciated. Many Thanks Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cromptonnut Posted April 5, 2015 Author Share Posted April 5, 2015 I think it depends on the size of the board(s). On my 4ft modules I have a set of legs at each end. On my 12ft fiddle yard I have two sets of legs on the first board, then one at the outer end of board 2 and board 3. On my circular module I have a set of legs every other join and a single leg inbetween. On a 6ft board I'd probably do each end and a middle 'helper'. Lots of variables... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted April 5, 2015 Share Posted April 5, 2015 Is it better to have them at the end of the board up against the end board, a few inches in ? or some distance proportional to the length of the board? An interesting question. When I get round 2 it Kenton's Curve will have 5 (that's the plan anyway) one on the outside of the curve and two at each module end. But I'll need to think aain about how far in at the module end because they have the potential to collide with the arrangement used by the adjacent modules. My current plans are for two 2x1 for each leg almost infinitely adjustable for length (well not quite) but it will exceed the spec adjustment height by some way. One half slotted and two coach bolts per leg. [i don't like the "agreed" spec height and rather than 2 sets of legs for every module I would rather have legs adjustable to the spec and for personal preference use at home] The idea is to have them slot into boxes in the module frame. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
teetrix Posted November 20, 2015 Share Posted November 20, 2015 I use IVAR side units by IKEA. Cut to length, fitted with adjustable feet and a plywood strap to be bolted at the end of the module (Fremo 0e uses 6 mm bolts in 10 mm holes, providing some mm to adjust "not-so-precise" joints) The bottom of the module rests at the ends of the columns. Of course it is possible to make them fit in pockets too. IKEA provides a suitable length of 1240 mm / 4 ft and two widths of 300mm / approx 1 ft and 500 mm / approx 1ft 8" . There are suitable crossbraces too, called "Observatör". Incorporated in a large module arrangement of 0 standard gauge and 0e narrow gauge: The IKEA-legs were widely adapted by the modelers of both gauges. Btw: The side units available in the shops are often distorted - I have ordered mine online. Michael Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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