lancer1027 Posted November 23, 2014 Author Share Posted November 23, 2014 It was a piece of U brass 1.5mm x 1.5mm drilled and wire soldered through. Although its not very neat, once painted yellow and slightly weathered im hoping it will disguise the untidyness. At the moment i am having problems with the headcode boxes. The charaters when cut off the sheet and put side by side they are actually wider than the box apperture. So i am having to trim slithers off each edge to try and get them to fit without losing the character. This is very difficult when using a 6 and a 4. I am doing 1V64 at one end and 1M76 at the other. but i will look to see if i can use a different code that end to make it easier . Of course a centre headcode variant is ok but i am doing the split box first. Pics will follow if all goes to plan. But dont hold your breath. Rob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancer1027 Posted November 23, 2014 Author Share Posted November 23, 2014 I have now fitted the headcode characters in the split boxes. The close ups look really awful but actually they dont look too bad. Still its really the best i can do with the space that i had. Rob 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted November 23, 2014 Share Posted November 23, 2014 (edited) How did you end up doing the metal details on the peak noses Rob? I was going to ask the very same Phill. It was a piece of U brass 1.5mm x 1.5mm drilled and wire soldered through. Although its not very neat, once painted yellow and slightly weathered im hoping it will disguise the untidyness. At the moment i am having problems with the headcode boxes. The charaters when cut off the sheet and put side by side they are actually wider than the box apperture. So i am having to trim slithers off each edge to try and get them to fit without losing the character. This is very difficult when using a 6 and a 4. I am doing 1V64 at one end and 1M76 at the other. but i will look to see if i can use a different code that end to make it easier . Of course a centre headcode variant is ok but i am doing the split box first. Pics will follow if all goes to plan. But dont hold your breath. Rob It all looks very good to me Rob, when you are ready you could always 'dust' with primer and check, but I am sure that when painted and weathered it will all be perfect. I have now fitted the headcode characters in the split boxes. The close ups look really awful but actually they dont look too bad. Still its really the best i can do with the space that i had. DSCN0741.JPG Rob Hi Rob, I think that when we photo our models in 'cruel close-up' it's a case of 'warts and all', especially confusing when viewed with the MK1 eyeball - hence my tip on a dusting of primer so that one can get a better idea of what needs attention and/or what the finished model will look like - primer also helps with filler adherence too. I think that you are going to have a cracking model when it's all finished and it will look superb on the layout. ATVB CME PS I now use Deluxe Materials' 'Perfect Plastic Putty', as it's acrylic it dries quickly - with little or no fumes - enabling a quick layered build up and it can be worked and re-worked with water and a fine brush (or a myriad of other tools), over 12-24 hours it then dries akin to the 'Squadron' products - although it is white and not green, so sometimes a little harder to see. In addition I have been able to use a whole tube without it drying in the tube (unused) Another supplier has asked me to trial self filling primers too - something I had been looking for, for ages, I hope to write about my results with that too. Edited November 23, 2014 by CME and Bottlewasher Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phill Dyson (onslaught832) Posted November 23, 2014 Share Posted November 23, 2014 Yes, I agree with CME, I'm sure it looks fine without the cruel close ups.......If you still need to do the other end why not use a number 1 in the number side as it will be much easier to squeeze in 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidB Posted November 23, 2014 Share Posted November 23, 2014 Hi Rob I hate to say it when you're doing such a cracking job with the Peak, but the headcode boxes should be oblong, not square - which is why they're not quite wide enough for the transfers. Loving your posts - and you've put my own Big-Big conversions to shame! David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancer1027 Posted November 23, 2014 Author Share Posted November 23, 2014 Hi David, Yes i thought that but wasn't sure. Unfortunately the resin body would need a hell of a lot of work to correct. In fact i think it would have been easier to remove all together and make fresh boxes. . However im not going to go to that trouble now i have got this far. I am still working on the other end but once this is done then tail lights, bit more cab detail then should be ready for primer. Rob 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancer1027 Posted November 23, 2014 Author Share Posted November 23, 2014 Just put together the other end. I have chosen a different code from 1M76. This time its 1E31 . So hopefully it will fit better and look neater when inside the headcode box. Rob 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted November 23, 2014 Share Posted November 23, 2014 Hi Rob, I never know what to do about Headcodes as my line is partly fictitious - probably the same as you (a different one at each end), or some funnies such as four crooked O,s or OXO LOL! ATVB CME Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddys-blues Posted November 26, 2014 Share Posted November 26, 2014 OH NO !!! WHAT HAVE I DONE .... I have been teetering on the brink of deciding whether to go 7mm, & I have come across this thread, now with this thread, West Kirby & Llanelly, I have to say, that's it, I am over the edge, as they say on Dragons Den "I think" I'm in. Classifieds listings to be hit with the 4mm list, and my first purchase will be the Easybuild 121/122 Bubble Car ... now then a Blue / Grey 122 or an Upswept NSE 121 ???? ooh decisions decisions ? Happy modelling Craig. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
two tone green Posted November 26, 2014 Share Posted November 26, 2014 Well done Craig, you know it makes sense. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted November 26, 2014 Share Posted November 26, 2014 OH NO !!! WHAT HAVE I DONE .... I have been teetering on the brink of deciding whether to go 7mm, & I have come across this thread, now with this thread, West Kirby & Llanelly, I have to say, that's it, I am over the edge, as they say on Dragons Den "I think" I'm in. Classifieds listings to be hit with the 4mm list, and my first purchase will be the Easybuild 121/122 Bubble Car ... now then a Blue / Grey 122 or an Upswept NSE 121 ???? ooh decisions decisions ? Happy modelling Craig. Hi Craig, Welcome to the best scale in my opinion. Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancer1027 Posted November 26, 2014 Author Share Posted November 26, 2014 Nice one Craig. 7mm is the way to go. Oh and the bubblecar has to be blue/grey as opossed to NSE. I have just soldered all headcode led's on the split box peak and they have been epoxyed into position. Just waiting for them to set now. Then i can position the body so i can take a pic. I am now going to solder the wires to the tale lights I now have the glazing sheet so i can glaze the cab. Unfortunately im away for the weekend so no modelling . However i will try and do a bit more progress before then. Rob 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddys-blues Posted November 26, 2014 Share Posted November 26, 2014 Hi Rob, what is or will be your tightest curve on your layout ? I am planning on having 2 platform faces that are on through lines on curves, but I will need them to look pro typical with a nice line of flow and not end up with a large gap between the platform edge and the coaches. Happy modelling Craig Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted November 26, 2014 Share Posted November 26, 2014 (edited) Hi Rob, what is or will be your tightest curve on your layout ? I am planning on having 2 platform faces that are on through lines on curves, but I will need them to look pro typical with a nice line of flow and not end up with a large gap between the platform edge and the coaches. Happy modelling Craig Hi Craig, Cant speak for Rob, but the recommended minimum radius - by the Gauge O Guild - is 6'.00". Depends on what locos and stock you intend to run though as some models will go around tighter curves. Buffer lock is the first issue that one often encounters with tighter radii. Hope that helps, ATVB CME Edited November 26, 2014 by CME and Bottlewasher Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancer1027 Posted November 27, 2014 Author Share Posted November 27, 2014 Hi Craig, CME is right 6' is the minimum radius to have, but as my railway is out in the garden my curves are larger than 6' Rob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddys-blues Posted November 27, 2014 Share Posted November 27, 2014 Hi Rob & CME, thanks for the confirmation, I thought it would be around that, it helps me in my planning, obviously I will try and get in the largest radii curves I can, just another question in relation to Peco track, what are the merits of Peco in 7mm ? Does it suffer from any negative press as it does in the 4mm scale, sleeper gap, rail code dimensions not correct as in the 100 code etc, and is the rail to rail width correct for the 7mm scale, unlike the OO width which is narrower hence the EM and P4 modelling. I am thinking about joining the GOG, any pros and cons for this ? Sorry to hijack your thread for my own questions Rob. Best regards Craig Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CME and Bottlewasher Posted November 27, 2014 Share Posted November 27, 2014 (edited) Hi Rob & CME, thanks for the confirmation, I thought it would be around that, it helps me in my planning, obviously I will try and get in the largest radii curves I can, just another question in relation to Peco track, what are the merits of Peco in 7mm ? Does it suffer from any negative press as it does in the 4mm scale, sleeper gap, rail code dimensions not correct as in the 100 code etc, and is the rail to rail width correct for the 7mm scale, unlike the OO width which is narrower hence the EM and P4 modelling. I am thinking about joining the GOG, any pros and cons for this ? Sorry to hijack your thread for my own questions Rob. Best regards Craig Hi Craig, My railway runs out into the garden and back into the garage (garage-garden-garage) into a BLT (it's still a WIP) and it's a small garden so my track curves are 5'6" to 6'0" (thus compound curves) which in reality would have required a check-rail. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/77273-down-ampney/ I have found the GOG to be a real boon and virtually everybody I have met through the Guild has been helpful in the extreme, friendly with it too (there have been one or two exceptions but dozens and dozens of nice folk have helped me over the years, spending considerable time and effort at times). The quarterly mag, the 'Gazette', is excellent, a little biased towards kettles', yet it is up to us diesel modellers to help change that by submitting more articles. The GOG also have area groups (like mini clubs) with meets (garden and indoors), there are second hand sales etc etc. I believe that there are about 5000-5,500 members now and there is a dedicated website. There are also dozens of suppliers, which if modelling in 7mm/O gauge you will need to learn a bit about the marketplace so as to get the best from the scale/gauge. The GOG have numerous help/beginners guides and a technical committee etc etc. Peco track, is by and large good, C&L RTL flexi-track is slightly more accurate in terms of sleeper-spacing but it's marginal/minimal (most onlookers wouldn't be able to tell which is more accurate in this regard), having said that no one makes a RTL ex GWR/WR flexi-track as both C&L's RTL flexi and Peco's are a different - common - bolt pattern (a missed opportunity on the part of C&L IMHO). Peco's RTL 'switches and crossings' (Points et al.) are okay if a little inaccurate, but with some fettling can be made to look and work better (the 'Frogs' are a little wide of the mark). Peco track has been known to be problematic in the garden, even though it is designed for such, but there are ways to 'insure' against these problems (PM me if you need to know more). One can build almost any track type from C&L parts. Of course there is the debate between 7mm FS and S7, yet TBH looking at the track one can hardly tell the difference - as you allude to, Peco 'OO' track is basically HO track (one of the reasons why I changed to 7mm FS) this is not an issue with the RTL 7mm FS track. Most of us use Peco RTL track, either straight from the box or modified/fettled. C&L do some easy to build 'point-work' kits, yet bear in mind each point requires - amongst other things - approx 100 chairs to be attached, so time, skill and patience comes into play, also C&L point kits are pricier than Peco RTL points. You could also investigate Marcway's copper-clad sleeper track too, which is very robust (in RTL or kit form). S7 track is gauged at 33mm whereas 7mm FS is 32mm, the other issue with S7 is that the flanges are very, very fine (often requiring more compensation and or 'suspension' on locos and stock). In 7mm most of us model to 7mm FS standards, with some - who make their own track - working to different tolerances for the points and curves, but not many, most take the Peco track and use it straight from the box. I hope that helps - welcome to the new order! Sorry for the Hijack too Rob, just thought that I could help out - I can remove this Post if you feel it clutters your Thread. ATVB CME Edited November 27, 2014 by CME and Bottlewasher Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted November 27, 2014 Share Posted November 27, 2014 C&L point kits are quite expensive, but if your prepared to file your own vee's and blades ( easy enough with a jig ), then the turnouts workout cheaper in the long run and you can create flowing point work to basically any design that you fancy. HTH, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZiderHead Posted November 27, 2014 Share Posted November 27, 2014 If you go for the chair/timber set, the machined switch/vee set and stretcher bars it works out at about £30 a turnout plus some rail, with no machining or high temp soldering required Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
iploffy Posted November 28, 2014 Share Posted November 28, 2014 A New 7mm recruit, you know it make alot of difference the sheer size of the models in your hands 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartynS Posted November 28, 2014 Share Posted November 28, 2014 A New 7mm recruit, you know it make alot of difference the sheer size of the models in your hands And not so bl**dy fiddly to build either. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted November 28, 2014 Share Posted November 28, 2014 And not so bl**dy fiddly to build either. Not sure about that. You still make little parts. Just that they are the ones you left off the 4mm model. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancer1027 Posted November 28, 2014 Author Share Posted November 28, 2014 Progress on the peak has been a little slow over the last couple of days. I have managed to get all the led's wired and glued including the tail lights but only at one end. I wont get chance to do the other end for a while as im away for the weekend. I also need to purchase an Omens Minature driver so he can be painted and put in the cab before the cab detail is glued in. I also need to put the windows in before the detail is glued in. Of course once i have done this end i still have the other end to do. Small steps and all that. I hope to have the bogies all fitted ready for the new year so that i can get radio control fitted . Then when the spring comes i can play trains in the garden. Happy Days. Pictures of this progress will come as soon as i get chance to take some. Rob 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rosspeacock Posted November 28, 2014 Share Posted November 28, 2014 Have a good weekend Rob..peak progress sounds good.. I'm still thinking that I'm going to do mine as D8 penyghent.. ill have to remove the hedcode boxes though and move the red marker lights further up and I'll need some discs too.. saw some hinged ones once but I can't remember who did them? Ross... 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianwales Posted November 29, 2014 Share Posted November 29, 2014 Have a good weekend Rob..peak progress sounds good.. I'm still thinking that I'm going to do mine as D8 penyghent.. ill have to remove the hedcode boxes though and move the red marker lights further up and I'll need some discs too.. saw some hinged ones once but I can't remember who did them? Ross... Hi Ross JLTRT make working hinged headcode discs which "open and close once assembled". Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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