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Rob's 7mm WR workbench


lancer1027
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Hi All,

 

I forgot to mention, and only thought of it when I was looking at one of my locos today, MMP do a diesel super-detail kit with Headcode Box etches etc etc etc, all good value for money too. I understand that JLTRT do a 'diesel detail kit', so between the two manufacturers there is a lot of nice little add-ons and tweaks can be had.

 

ATVB

 

CME

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OK we came back from Stevenage earlier than originally planned so i have managed to take a couple of pics of the tail lights and headcode boxes at No2 end.

 

I had glued the tail lights in on thursday evening  and i will sort the cab glazing and fit over the next few days.

 

post-6779-0-30155200-1417353197.jpg

 

post-6779-0-74032900-1417353228.jpg

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I have been trying to fix the roof to my TPO only to find that the roof fixing bolts that i bought are too long. :beee: So out came the dremel and cut the length. The only problem i have just spent the last 40 minutes trying to thread the nut back on. Obviously the end thread is slightly damaged and i cant get it to go back on so i have given up for tonight. I will go back to it tomorrow. :declare:

 

I have started marking out the glazing for the peak cab windows with the 40 thou clear sheet.

 

I am also going to use this to make the corridor side on the FK's. This is because there is a large amount of windo area along with the doors. This i will mark out and mask off. Then it will get sprayed with matt black to represent the black vinyl. I will then add some micro strip that will be painted alluminium. Hopefully this idea will work and leave me with a nice corridor side. ( time will tell ). Any pictures of this would be much appreciated.

 

 

Rob

Edited by lancer1027
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Hi Rob, a good tip when cutting any bolts down in length, is if you have a nut to fit them wind the nut on first past the cut mark then, cut the bolt then wind the nut back off, this helps to restore the thread with the nut acting as a die.

 

But as you are at the hindsight stage, get a flat file and file the end nice and square first, then holding the bolt in a vice or your hand with the thread end pointing up dress the thread downwards and round on the bolt thread towards the bolt head, this should clean off any any burrs and opens up the starting point for the thread, you can also use a triangular needle file to gently clean out the thread pitch.

 

Hope this helps

Craig

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Hi Craig,

 

Thanks for the tip. I will remember to do that on the next ones.

 

Just been reading on another thread that you asked about Westdale. He doesn't have a website but can be contacted via phone . I usually get my stuff from him at O gauge shows.

 

I have several Westdale kits and they make up to be a very nice vehicle. I think i have 4 Mk1 sleepers, a BG and 4 GUV's . I have also in the past built 6 K series pullman coaches but i no longer have those. The best Westdale kit IMO is the GUV. This an all in one resin body with only detail bits to glue on and the chassis can be soldered or glued together. I soldered the solebars for strength.

 

post-6779-0-58091400-1417855462.jpg

 

Just realised i haven't took any pics of the GUV's finished. I will have to get the out and take some.

 

 

Rob

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post-6779-0-65357400-1417856604.jpg

 

post-6779-0-37260800-1417856632.jpg

 

post-6779-0-02524900-1417856666.jpg

 

 

They are 3 of the GUV's ( Westdale ) although i have just noticed one has no buffers :stinker:  The 4th GUV is right at the bottom of the pile and i cant be bothered to move everything at this moment. This is W86530 running as a Newspaper Van.

 

 

OK on to the mk2's.

 

I have started the corridor side and will post some pics when i have done something worth taking a pic of. Meanwhile the pic below shows the FK just having its seats painted before i then paint the partitions to represent wood panelling.

 

post-6779-0-46627900-1417856692.jpg

 

Rob

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Hi Ian, No not really they go together pretty well. Although i think soldering the solebars with some scrap brass as strengtheners is better than glueing onto the mdf floor. But its about preference.

 

When tyou do get round to building dont forget to start a build thread on it.

 

Rob

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Hi Rob

 

Like the photos of the GUV's, I've got a Westdale one to build, any tips before I start it?

 

Ian

Hi Ian,

 

Devcon is recommended by Westdale for anything that needs glueing (ie to aluminium), I would add to that to use a resin based cyano, if you need to use a super-glue and key the substrate/surface well before gluing.

 

When painting aluminium, as with brass, get a good key on the substrate and use a good etch primer such as U-POL ACID #8 ETCH PRIMER. 

Then over-paint with eg. Halfords primer for metals (if you need to sand/recheck any imperfections - prior to painting - then just blip on some standard primer to start with and sand back before applying the Acid # 8 et al.).

 

Hope that helps and that I am not teaching anyone to suck eggs! :)

 

ATVB

 

CME

Edited by CME and Bottlewasher
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Hi Ian,

 

Devcon is recommended by Westdale for anything that needs glueing (ie to aluminium), I would add to that to use a resin based cyano, if you need to use a super-glue and key the substrate/surface well before gluing.

 

When painting aluminium, as with brass, get a good key on the substrate and use a good etch primer such as U-POL ACID #8 ETCH PRIMER. 

Then over-paint with eg. Halfords primer for metals (if you need to sand/recheck any imperfections - prior to painting - then just blip on some standard primer to start with and sand back before applying the Acid # 8 et al.).

 

Hope that helps and that I am not teaching anyone to suck eggs! :)

 

ATVB

 

CME

Hi CME

 

Thanks for the info although the GUV isn't aluminium, it is a one piece resin body.

 

Ian

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Hi Rob :)

 

As you probably remember I have one of those Westdale Guv's to do, I was wondering who's transfers you used on the left side of your Guv's above & below those chalk boards?

I have just finished a PRMRP Mark 1 GUV. I would also be grateful if you say where you got the transfers for your newspaper van.

D.

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Hi guys,

 

All the transfers on my GUV's were done with the Coach Insignia sheet from HMRS except for the little yellow Brute Circuit Only signs which were from Railtec.

 

I will try and take a close up later.

 

Rob

  

Hi

Fox also do a sheet fot the blue GUV but it doesn't include the Newspapers branding

Ian

Thanks guys. Out of interest, are the HMRS presfix? I prefer to use water slide transfers when possible, they appear to be easier to apply.

D

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Yes the HMRS transfers are presfix.

 

Here is a close up of them.

 

post-6779-0-59697200-1417957800.jpg

 

And here is the Railtec ones for comparison, although these are for a CCT.

 

post-6779-0-48521800-1417957832.jpg

 

 

Next pic shows the Mk2 FK seats , partitions and now headrests painted.

 

post-6779-0-34463700-1417957859.jpg

 

This is the corridor side masked off one side and its first coat of wood colour. You will notice that the angle part off one end has snapped off this will be re-attatched in situ.

The next stage on this will be remove the tape and do the same to the other side. The panel at the bottom of each compartment door is black so this will be done as well.

 

post-6779-0-32944900-1417957891.jpg

 

 

Just a question , with waterslide transfers you can see the carrier film. Is there a way of reducing the visibility of this?.

 

Rob

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Spray gloss varnish in the area of the decals. Then apply the decals with softneners.I use micro sol and micro set from microscale as these work with almost all transfer films without attacking them.Gunze for example mr. Mark softer did attack and destroy some so I changed. After drying spay a matt coat of varnish to eliminate the obvious film.I your piece should be gloss or satin apply after the matt varnish. Decals applying is fiddly and need patience to give good results.

 

Cheers

Andreas

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Just a question , with waterslide transfers you can see the carrier film. Is there a way of reducing the visibility of this?

The most reliable way, and the method recommended by many transfer manufacturers, is a gloss finish.

 

You'll find plastic kit aero modellers use the same technique. An overall coat of gloss varnish (or Johnsons Klear), apply the transfers, then a matt or satin coat and weathering.

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The most reliable way, and the method recommended by many transfer manufacturers, is a gloss finish.

 

You'll find plastic kit aero modellers use the same technique. An overall coat of gloss varnish (or Johnsons Klear), apply the transfers, then a matt or satin coat and weathering.

 

Thanks Heather, that's absolutely correct. When this technique is used the (already thin) carrier film disappears completely as can be seen in some sample images below, courtesy of George Dent and Silver Fox:

 

9002-2.jpg

 

 

sf01.jpg

 

Many RTR models use our transfers in this way, and the added benefit of course is that the modeller has the luxury of being able to position a waterslide transfer exactly as they wish prior to final sealing.

 

We also have a lot more in the pipe for 7mm items. Rob - the mk1 sleeper and TPOs you've asked for are definitely on the radar!

 

Thanks,

Steve

Edited by railtec-models
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Got in a bit later from work than normal tonight so didn't get as much done as i would have liked.

 

I still managed to nearly finish the corridor side.

 

This as you saw in the previous posting i had masked off and painted the wooden panels. I have now done the black panel at the bottom of each door and used painted (alluminium ) micro strip for the frame. This has been glued into position.

 

I have just in the last ten minutes put the FIRST class signs and NO SMOKING signs on the compartment windows.

 

I will take some pics at the weekend.

 

Rob

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