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Connoisseur LSWR O2 for Pencarrow


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attachicon.gifO2 a.jpg

 

This is my build of this kit. Waiting now for me to get in the mood to line it out and fit  the Zimo 645 decoder and speaker.

 

As usual from Jim the kit went together well with no problems. The smokebox mounted lubricators are not included, mine are from Laurie Griffin, and I have yet to fit the steam heating pipes which will be brass castings and will go on after I have fitted the Dingham couplings. Also has sprung buffers from Northampton Model Railway Supplies.

 

I do like a properly set up 0-4-4T so I have compensated the coupled axles with a beam between them and the bogie is rigid. The front end of the boiler was then filled with Cerrobend. Runs quite nicely and is well balanced.

 

I'm not that keen on the format of the instructions and would rather just have a descriptive list of parts but then I have built alot of locos over the years. I also found that  the slots for the tabs were a bit wide and allowed some solder "leakage" which needed a bit of cleaning up.

 

All in all a decent kit and very good value for money

 

Nick

Well that's brought us all back down to earth! A very nice build there, and the kit looks to produce a well proportioned 02. Nice one Nick :locomotive:

Jon F.

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Photos will not show anything as it is all now buried under pick ups etc. (I don't like plunger pickups as it seem to work like applying the brakes)

Basically there is a beam on each side made of a double thickness of chassis material. Drill holes for bushes using coupling rods as template for holes. Enlarge holes to fit over bushes. Fit over bushes in axle hole and drill hole for pivot around the centre line. Enlarge axle hole in chassis vertically by about 1/2mm each way. Assemble chassis the fit bushes with beams inside chassis and 2mm wire for pivot.

Hope that helps

Nick

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Can confirm Nick's approach - used it on a 14xx 0-4-2, and it works very well. The bogie or axle needs a central rocking pivot, to make "the third leg of the stool". You can advantageously gild the mossie's todger by equalising the bogie if you wish.

 

An alternative, which I used on a pal's 2P (4-4-0) is to make the outer (rear) driven axle rigid, and then to put a rocking beam between the inner driver, and the bogie pivot. This also works well, but effectively moves the "support triangle" backwards, thus increasing the risk of a roll-over. Probably marginally worse, but this can be a real issue with equalisation of big 4-6-0 locos.

 

Brian Clapperton has written a very good article on compensation – http://www.abcgears.co.uk/abc_gears_-_loco_suspension.pdf

 

Just shout if you need more diagrams

Best

Simon

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Post 1 has been updated to show the kit contents.

Looks like an excellent and comprehensive kit, and I trust you wont have the issues that you've had with the Pannier.

The castings look very good, chimney and dome in particular.  These are not easy to cast and often provide an indicator for the quality of the rest of the kit.

 

I look forward to following its progress.

 

Cheers, Dave.

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Cab beading was a pig to get spot on.

 

A bit late now but what I do is to tin the underneath of the beading, measure where the centre line is on the cab and on the beading and then form the beading to the rough shape. Then I press down on the beading ( with a small piece of wood ) and start to sweat on the beading starting at the centre line and working outwards, works for me every time.

 

Martyn.

 

PS,   I use a piece of wood rather than a pair of pliers or tweezers, so not to cause a heat sink issue, and it also stops the smell of burnt finger tips  :O .

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And tonight I've tackled the main structure of the cab interior. This is what the destructions told me to do...

 

post-6675-0-18631700-1420239208_thumb.jpg

 

Lots of bits...

 

post-6675-0-33740800-1420239279.jpg

 

And a while later...

 

post-6675-0-93163400-1420239306.jpg

 

post-6675-0-50862300-1420239343.jpg

 

Needs cleaning up. I'm toying with the idea of keeping this as a separate sub-assembly and painting it all prior to fitting. The snag will be fitting the backhead and rear sheet toolbox...

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Observations so far:

- heat still travels quicker in brass than NS.

- I still don't have asbestos fingers.

- Jim's instructions are the clearest I've come across.

- All the parts fit and appear appropriate to the loco I'm building.

 

I'm quite enjoying this kit.

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