RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 6, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 6, 2015 Oh, and I took Jim's advice and stuck a bit of single-sided copper clad wrong side up to my favourite block of wood. Means you don't get burnt timber residue on the brass. (thanks to Grandad Mike for the copper clad) 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeHemmings Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 Excuse me but I am not your grandad, uncle Chris. Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 7, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 7, 2015 Excuse me but I am not your grandad, uncle Chris. Mike Ok Pops. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 10, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 10, 2015 At last, the quest is over, I now have the full set of these books. Going to give the O2 chapter a good read. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted January 10, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 10, 2015 At last, the quest is over, I now have the full set of these books. rps20150110_091437.jpg Going to give the O2 chapter a good read. Dangerous thing when you are halfway through a build not as dangerous as when you have just finished the lining out! Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 10, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 10, 2015 Dangerous thing when you are halfway through a build not as dangerous as when you have just finished the lining out! Don I knew the book was arriving and so purposely backed off working on the kit this last week. Having just skimmed through the text I don't think there's anything to worry about and the major class pitfalls had already been identified by folk earlier in the thread. I am now convinced though that the O2s were not built with cab doors. Bradley refers to these as Drummond features in another class chapter. From photos it would appear that the cab door retrofits were applied to the IoW locos. None of the photos of mainland locos in my own books show them fitted, although there is a report of one class member in a post above bucking the trend. In this respect I'm not sure that the cab doors fitted Kernow OO RTR model is correct. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 10, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 10, 2015 Quite a bit done this afternoon but not much that's very noticeable. 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 Quite a bit done this afternoon but not much that's very noticeable. rps20150110_173243.jpg That's coming together very well and very cleanly. Are you doing a lot of cleaning up as you go or do you just have the knack of using the right amount of solder and no more? I'm looking forward to seeing the frames set up and wheeled. Chaz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indomitable026 Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 Quite a bit done this afternoon but not much that's very noticeable. rps20150110_173243.jpg Agreed. I can't see what you've done. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 10, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 10, 2015 Boiler bands. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 10, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 10, 2015 That's coming together very well and very cleanly. Are you doing a lot of cleaning up as you go or do you just have the knack of using the right amount of solder and no more? I'm looking forward to seeing the frames set up and wheeled. Chaz I'm using much less solder than I was and there's less cleaning to do. I could do with a slightly pointier bit - the replacement is squared than the original. A couple more little bits and then it's on to the frames. I need to mark up the frames for the compensation beams pivots. Did someone say that the pivot should be slightly off-centre horizontally? Also, does it matter how high above the axles the pivot is vertically? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 10, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 10, 2015 Agreed. I can't see what you've done. To assist the visibily challenged: ;-p Second splasher/sandbox, sanding gear levers and big box in the cab. Plus a load of tweaking to get the smokebox to fit beautifully. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 10, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 10, 2015 Agreed. I can't see what you've done. Another spot the difference for Mr Ross... 5 bits added, 2 taken off. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indomitable026 Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 Another spot the difference for Mr Ross... rps20150110_202524.jpg 5 bits added, 2 taken off. Nope. I tell you what, it would look nice with industrial style yellow and black warning chevrons either end. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 (edited) I'm using much less solder than I was and there's less cleaning to do. I could do with a slightly pointier bit - the replacement is squared than the original. A couple more little bits and then it's on to the frames. I need to mark up the frames for the compensation beams pivots. Did someone say that the pivot should be slightly off-centre horizontally? Also, does it matter how high above the axles the pivot is vertically? The only reason for an off-centre pivot would be to load one axle more than the other. Does Mr McGeown have anything to say about this in his notes? As regards the vertical position of the pivot I'd be inclined to put it level with the driving axle centre lines, unless there's a reason not to. Oh, hang on, I'm assuming the beams are carrying the driving axles - you need to say if this is so. Chaz Edited January 10, 2015 by chaz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 I agree with Chaz regarding the horizontal position of the compensation beam pivots. I would expect them to be central between the axles for an 0-4-4. Vertically, within reason, say a few mm above or below, it shouldn't make any difference. I'd again tend to agree with Chaz' suggestion of having it pretty much in line with the axle nominal centre line. It's looking good! Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 10, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 10, 2015 Evening Chaz... The chassis is where I'm departing company from Jim's design. His instructions have the leading axle rocking on a bar and the second axle fixed. The fixed axle is driven by the motor. Many folk on here have advised that better running Will result from altering the kit arrangement and have the two main axles run in compensating beams. On the photo below you'll see there's a red cross that marks the midpoint between the two axles. You'll agree it's not a great position for the compensation beam pivot point. Suggestions welcome people. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 10, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 10, 2015 I agree with Chaz regarding the horizontal position of the compensation beam pivots. I would expect them to be central between the axles for an 0-4-4. Vertically, within reason, say a few mm above or below, it shouldn't make any difference. I'd again tend to agree with Chaz' suggestion of having it pretty much in line with the axle nominal centre line. It's looking good! Simon See photos above Simon - a central pivot point is going to be tricky. I'm thinking of perhaps dropping the pivot down by about 3mm. See red dot on the photo below... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 10, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 10, 2015 Ps, the smaller diameter holes to the right of the main axle locations are provided by Jim for Slaters plunger pickups. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Indomitable026 Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 See photos above Simon - a central pivot point is going to be tricky. I'm thinking of perhaps dropping the pivot down by about 3mm. See red dot on the photo below... rps20150110_213627.jpg Or fill in the hole and then re- drill..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 My set of Bradleys are now in Brazil. I am looking forward to reading them again. Good looking build by the way. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mark Forrest Posted January 10, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 10, 2015 Is the up - down movement of the axles given just by opening out the bearings slightly oversize? If so, what stops the axles moving front - back? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 10, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 10, 2015 Is the up - down movement of the axles given just by opening out the bearings slightly oversize? If so, what stops the axles moving front - back?The idea is that the bearings are fixed to the compensation beams, which in turn are fixed by a pivot point to the side frames. The holes in the frames that would normally contain the bearings are enlarged to allow the axles to move up and down. The axles can't move front to back, just up and down. This is the arrangement on my beloved 1366. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 Hi Chris, I think that setting up the drivers on the O2 in the same way as the front two axles on your 1366 will be ideal. It is precisely what I did on my 48xx. Having the pivots below the axle centreline per your red dot does mean that there will be a small amount of fore & aft movement of the axles as they go up & down, but this should not be an issue provided you have ensured enough room for the axle bushes to move relative to the frames. You'll need a fancy shaped compensation beam to clear the plunger pickups if you plan to use them - time for the piercing saw! Best Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mark Forrest Posted January 10, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 10, 2015 The idea is that the bearings are fixed to the compensation beams, which in turn are fixed by a pivot point to the side frames. The holes in the frames that would normally contain the bearings are enlarged to allow the axles to move up and down. The axles can't move front to back, just up and down. This is the arrangement on my beloved 1366. rps20150110_220853.jpg Ah, I see, I had forgotten you were doing like that rather than sliding hornblocks. Anything useful here?: http://www.clag.org.uk/41-0rev.html#section9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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