sir douglas Posted August 31, 2019 Author Share Posted August 31, 2019 just got back, a grand day out as had by all.. except those who will have a grand weekend. restocked my sheets of styrene and brass rod with buffers & hooks to go on the Hunslet (which i now have drawings for), didnt get the springs for gilgamesh but i have no seen them in person to decide the right size and order them sometime in the near future. and just by chance one of the locos on the B&B was a hunslet 11500 but for some reason a 0-6-0 instead of 0-4-0, i suppose the builder confused it with the 05 class 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted September 9, 2019 Author Share Posted September 9, 2019 at the weekend i made a start on the Hunslet the top of the chassis is higher than the footplate so the footplate hangs off with the white blocks, a new frame that fits around the chassis will hold it all together by screwing into the footplate at either end and the body has been started with the cab 8 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted September 12, 2019 Author Share Posted September 12, 2019 working on the cab sides today, the doors were put in first and glued to the cab back for strength with the spacers tapered to fit the angled profile and give the door way depth. the cab side cutouts were bent across the middle and glued on 8 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted September 15, 2019 Author Share Posted September 15, 2019 moving onto the bonnet, as usual making up a frame of internal formers to then wrap a sheet around. 2 blocks with 8BA nuts set into them are made up and stuck in for the chassis holding bolts. i had to cut the chassis hangers off the footplate but have now been re fitted inside the bonnet 3 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted September 15, 2019 Author Share Posted September 15, 2019 i'll be helping with Overlord again soon, Halifax in 2 weeks (28-29 sept) and then Doncaster in February. its not yet decided what exactly i'll be doing at out show in November, i could be doing a demo stand with 2 or 3 boards of Eyemouth or not and just doing the library stand again Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted September 17, 2019 Author Share Posted September 17, 2019 progress for today is the bonnet has been clad but it still wont quite look right until the radiator cowling is done. now the bonnet is one, both the securing nuts are in place and the chassis can be screwed in. the skirting is 2mm black styrene with the panel jojns scribed in and gaps cut out for the steps which the rear ones have been put on the inside, bottom right are the parts cut out for the front steps 12 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post sir douglas Posted October 9, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted October 9, 2019 its been a few weeks now since i worked on the Diesel, i was going to do the louvres next but it wasnt working out. With the louvres opening downwards ii was going to use styrene strips cut into angles like tiny toblerones. but they need to be so tiny it was proving very difficult to do without snapping them. so that loco has been put aside while working on the eyemouth station building but the urge to continue with Gilgamesh reared. Even if i havent got the springs yet i can still do other things in the mean time. a pipe that runs from the dome to the smokebox done with 0.9mm brass wire. with a valve at the dome end, the handle being an L of 0.5mm brass The next big task was to fill the void between the frames. A void to be filled with an aesthetic representation of the motion. The slidebars are 1.5mm square section. The crossheads and partial con rods are single pieces of brass sheet cut to look like with bits of wire soldered in for the piston rods. The partial rods refers to that only the front half the rods can exist while not fouling the gearbox. No detail is necassery with it hardly being seeable but evrything is there in a basic capacity. the assembly sits between the cylinder block and boiler support locking it in place but is not fixed to either end making it easily removable by first un screwing the cylinders. the front is held by 2 brass dowels in holes in the cylinder block and the rear end hangs from the boiler support with 2 hooks soldered to the motion bracket which sit in holes in the support. The crosshead feed pumps are made of 12mm of 2mm brass rod soldered to 5mm of 2.5mm box section with a u bend of copper wire soldered through the box section. the pumps sit in 2mm holes drilled into the motion bracket. the top ends of the pipes have been bent and filed to sit in holes so easily removable. the pipe from the top of the pumps goes to he clack valves. the photos and drawings of Star & Swallow dont show the valves or where the feed pipe goes in so i added them for my own peace of mind. the valves are made with 3mm of 2mm brass tube with length of 1mm wire soldered into a hole drilled in the side. the solder fills up the pipe to cap the top and the bottom is drilled out for the copper wire to sit in and the valves are super glued the boiler with the wire going into hole drilled into the boiler. The pipe from the bottom that U bends up goes to the tank, the top end of this sits in an oval piece of styrene with a hole in it which is glued to the bottom of the tank 10 12 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted October 12, 2019 Author Share Posted October 12, 2019 While the wheels were out i had a go at fixing the problem with the gearbox, it was the axle which was moving about in holes that were too big in the gearbox frame and the gears were coming out of mesh. Partly also responsible was the inside of the body being a tight fit around the motor and pulling the gearbox up making the de-meshing worse. The slack in the gearbox was fixed by soldering on axle washers to the frame, the tightnes was fixed by easing off a brass hook that comes off the boiler mounting at the front. the loco now runs but its got a little limp, various fettling of the chassis and body has made into a much better runner. The distance between the holes in the coupling rods were about 0.5mm too far apart, so one hole on each rod was filled by drilling it out and soldering in short pieces of 1/8th brass rod. and then the new holes were carefully marked and pilot drilled, checking them against the crank centres showed slight mistake which was fixed by elongating the hole to correct it before drilling out to size. the holes have been reamed out to give a fraction of play to allow for the axle movement in the frames. Excess length of the idler shaft in the gearbox was cut down as it was rubbing on the inside of the boiler. Also while the loco was apart, the opportunity was taken to start painting things. starting with the wheels, boiler and the coal bunker which were done with Humrol 80 green while the smokebox, sand pots and cylinder block were done Tamiya in matt black. The rest of the body wont be down until i'm sure its all done. The frames and cranks will be done in Humbrol 20 crimson after the rivet heads have been added Had a little play last night on Eyemouth with Deffor's controller rigged up to a siding, Mark brought his loco he is building for the layout for a test run 9 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted October 19, 2019 Author Share Posted October 19, 2019 Last week the order for the springs was done and recieved but i didnt get into working on them while i was working on Eyemouth point kits. with them now out of the way. Laurie Griffin's midland tender springs (29-036) are the perfect size for what i want. Also shown is the marking and drilling on the chassis for the rivet heads that will be brass pins super glued in, thogh that has been halteed mainly because ive broken all of my remaing drill bits the right size, i need another set of those HSSmicro drills anyway. Ive pt in half of the pins on one side but another problem is some of the pins coming out while cleaning off excess glue. i might have to solder them in but that will be even more of a tedious job than this Some time was taken just wondering about how to mount the springs onto the footplate but it quickly became clear that there wasnt enough room between the face of the wheel arches and the edge of the footplate, so they were cut off to make new narrower ones after fitting the springs. While doing so broke off the thin strip of footplate where the springs would have gone. so wondered some more and went with soldering the springs to a barss strip which was superglued to the under side of the footplate. at the front, slots had to be cut from the footplate and the sand pots removed to shorten them. this is becaue only last week i noticed that fro some reason the loco has ended up over all 3mm longer than it should be and the front axle 5mm further forward, so the pot will have to be 2mm shorter.... oh and also the saddle tank has been painted 7 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted October 19, 2019 Share Posted October 19, 2019 Excellent work, I do admire this sort of Loco Building, well done. 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Isambarduk Posted October 19, 2019 Share Posted October 19, 2019 1 hour ago, sir douglas said: i need another set of those HSSmicro drills anyway. Ben, I am often asked about drills by folk who seem to get through an awful lot of them in their modelling. From what they have said, I believe that the problem is that, rather than buying their drills from decent engineering suppliers, they have bought them at model railway exhibitions from the likes of a stand whose trading name implies that they might be a large retail store selling a wide variety of goods, or from a stand whose trading name implies that they own country estates. For all my cutters, I go to The Drill Service (Horley) Ltd but a first time visit there is a bit like visiting a big city department store for the first time when you're more used to the village shop. Orders are post-free over £10 (not difficult). For our every day drilling needs, we are after jobber drills and I select from the D-HSS range - scroll down past the 'you-cannot-be-serious' pricey teeny-weeny drills at the top to our sort of size where you will see that D-0.50 (ie 0.5mm diam) is £1.75, for example. This the sort of price that you should expect to pay for high quality drills (ie hard, sharp and straight) that will last, rather then the around £1 at model railway exhibitions. For those who might be interested, for milling I nearly always go for slot drills and I select from i) the SDST HSS range . A SDST-1.05 (ie 1.05mm diam) is £5.95, or ii) I select SDC carbide slot drills; understandably, these are more expensive. The SDC-3.00-Y (ie 3.0mm diam) is £6.75 and it is my 'everyday' milling cutter. The SDC-0.50-Y at £7.98 is a 0.5mm diameter slot drill (if you have the nerves). I hope that those of you who struggle with broken drills or drills that will not cut (often the cause of broken drills) might find this helpful. David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted October 20, 2019 Author Share Posted October 20, 2019 thankyou who's Ben? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Isambarduk Posted October 20, 2019 Share Posted October 20, 2019 2 hours ago, sir douglas said: who's Ben? Sorry David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted October 23, 2019 Author Share Posted October 23, 2019 New wheel arches made with the rear ones fitted but i'm having trouble getting the front ones to stay in place, with the springs in i could now finish off the cab sides starting with the cut outs for the springs. intial cuts with the tin snips then the curved bits with the dremel and clean up with dremel and files. The drawingas and photos show these sides made up of stanchions with panels between them. my basic representation is with brass wire and thin nickel strip soldered to the sides 6 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted October 28, 2019 Author Share Posted October 28, 2019 The body is just about done now apart from sticking in the crew and getting the name plates The crew now painted and waiting to dry before sticking them in. I should have used a copper wire instead of brass for the pipe over the tank so that had to be painted copper. the vakve on the end of the pipe with the water gauge and regulator stuffing box have been painted in brass. various areas have been dry brushed in silder for paint wear & tear. I'm still not sure wether to keep the dome brass or paint it either green or brass. a small pile of coal is super glued into the slightly open coal hatch 12 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted November 17, 2019 Author Share Posted November 17, 2019 Won the locomotive award again at our show, this time for the Peckett "Nautilus" Ive got some bits i need such as drills. i'm going to do the chassis drilling on the pillar at the club to not snap the bit doing it by hand 10 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted November 19, 2019 Author Share Posted November 19, 2019 Im thinking of doing my layout in the 1930's as i originally wanted but i had to compromise and do it in the 50's because of the Planet and Fergie. none of my options are a win-win, its pro and con which is making it hard to decide which way to go or stay the way it is Fergie on flatbed wagon. replace with a portable engine Planet Halfmoon, cant be used on a 1930's layout since its mid-1950's at earliest. i have 3 options which i dont really want to do any of them. The last 1 is the best but i cant find any prototype that would fit the chassis - put away for the foreseeable future -sell -scrap body to build something pre 1940 and rebuild chassis to suit -make a second body of something pre 1940 which can be swapped back and forth when i want Hunslet diesel -finish and sell -finish and put away Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Northroader Posted November 19, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 19, 2019 Put it by, Sam, you’re young, it’ll come in some time in the future. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted November 19, 2019 Author Share Posted November 19, 2019 yeah, the only good option is keeping it as it is 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted November 24, 2019 Author Share Posted November 24, 2019 Last week i got a gloucester end door 12 ton for £10, it was somehwat falling apart so i started to prize back the loose parts to clean and re glue but i ended up taking the whole thing apart as it wasnt stuck together properly. the buffer stocks were moulded with the body but one of them was broken so all were cut off. the livery was "Dean Forest Navigation" which looks like a Powside but it was all covered in cracks and some small parts had slipped. i bought the wagon because it was cheap not for what it said and was probably going to repaint anyway. this was stripped off with a cotton bud and Microscale liquid film, the same company that make Microset and Microsol. i dont have any of them so i gave this a go instead. some gentle circular rubbing disintegrated the transfer into the liquid. The remains were cleaned up with thinner and sand paper though after a coat of matt black, ridges were left on the outline of the letters. a bit more sanding and another coat of paint The chosen colur to paint it is Tamiya XF-52 flat earth. While i was thinking about doing painting and lettering to this i thought that i should also do the wagon bought at the BRM doncaster show last year which until the other day was still in black under coat. the colour for this one is Humbrol 100. the previous wagon in Humbrol terracotta on the left and the new one in Tamiya brown on the right. below them are the lettering stencils just like ive done before as on the Skytrex's though cant be read under the camera flash The terrracotta wagon will be "Jolly Pinder" i already had one in this name but it has since been scrapped for parts. It was a whitemetal GWR 13 ton painted in chocolate brown. Jolly Pinder was the nickname for the George Greene the Pinder of Wakefield, part of the original tales of Robin Hood who travelled to find him and join the merry men, it is told that George was the only man that could beat Little John in quarter staff fighting. i didnt want to use this wagon any because it was much heavier than the rest of the wagons. the Brown wagon will be "Mulberry Bush" refering to the old kids song "here we go round the Mulberry bush" is said to be about the mulberry bush that was in Wakefield prison. instead of the usual horizontal lettering, one of them is arched and the other at an angle ironwork painted ready to letter but still needs cleaning up on the Brown wagon The jolly pinder, George Greene https://robin-hood.fandom.com/wiki/George_a_Greene mulberry bush https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HM_Prison_Wakefield#"Here_We_Go_'Round_the_Mulberry_Bush" 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted November 26, 2019 Author Share Posted November 26, 2019 Both fully lettered up on one side each. i dont think i can be bothered doing the other side, it doesnt really matter any since you can never see both sides. 9 2 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium J. S. Bach Posted November 26, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 26, 2019 11 hours ago, sir douglas said: Both fully lettered up on one side each. i dont think i can be bothered doing the other side, it doesnt really matter any since you can never see both sides. True, I have a combine that is lettered differently on each side; "CLUB" on one and "PARLOR" on the other. Note that I have no plans on changing anything, for the same reason that you have! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted November 28, 2019 Author Share Posted November 28, 2019 The Rother valley brake had been pet aside while i worked out the brake gear but since i posted the query a while back ive figured it out and made a start. https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/149034-passenger-brakevan-brake-gear/ the old brake shoes were taken out, cross hangers made up out of 1mm brass wire and the shoes made in pairs out of 2mm black styrene. 1 wheelset has been done with the other set still to cut out 6 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted November 29, 2019 Author Share Posted November 29, 2019 all the brake gear is on now and the foot boards are next. Theres some rodding ive left out since its hidden behind the wheels. i was going to temporarily fit the jolly wagon with whitemetal buffers until i got some sprung. half an hour later found some that i forgot i had bought so the whitemetal has now been removed and the bufferbeam holes need to drilled larger 9 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted December 3, 2019 Author Share Posted December 3, 2019 Both wagons are painted and have been finished with a coat of matt varnish over the lettered side, i may weather them but thats for another time. The Rother brake van was also finished this week. The footboards were started with 1mm brass wire bent into an L and super glued into holes in the solebars, then strips of brass sheet soldered across the wires to give the boards strength. and styrene channel section was cut into L section and superglued onto the brass. To finish off it didnt look right for the chassis to also be teak so ive copied the GNR 6 wheelers with the chassis being a sort of terracotta/brown or cream/brown The chassis rivets on Gilgamesh have been done last week, the holes drilled on the pillar at the club. The rivet heads are brass pins cut down to about 1.5mm long, dropped into the holes and superglued applied and the glue is drawn under head into the hole by capillary action. On Sunday 2 coats of Crimson were given to the chassis and cranks and after re assembly yesterday it was left upside down to run in on the croc clips. there is still the sand pots to put back on and clean up the paintwork. This is a particular irk of mine sinc this paint seems to be very easily affected by handling, you can see how the discolouration on the tank after handling Last night the train made up of these latest works had a running on the club track. This has brought up another thing to do on Gilgamesh, the front wheels are a little bit high resulting in them being up in the air sometimes 8 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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