Phil Traxson Posted February 16, 2021 Share Posted February 16, 2021 16 hours ago, sir douglas said: gussets under the side doors and latches on the end. including the little pin and chain (explained below) this is part of a photo from an LNER wagon book showing the latches, a chain link fits around a spigot on the door, then a pin on a chain slips into a hole in the spigot to keep the latch on. Love photo's like this showing how imperfect the real thing was, bent, broken and misplaced securing pin and it's strap on the door, packers and reinforcing plates behind the buffer housing, sloppy fit of buffer spindle in housing. All good stuff, but if you modelled like that the rivet counters (who have usually built nothing!) would be down on you like a ton of bricks. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted February 16, 2021 Author Share Posted February 16, 2021 the photo was in later LNER days after decades of rough use and minimal repairs but i'm modelling it brand new c.1906/7 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted February 16, 2021 Author Share Posted February 16, 2021 its about ready for painting now. Spent over an hour last night trying to get the rings right for the end door hinges, Wasting some of my brass rod in doing so, and had to turn to the wire ir use for coupling chain. Today was making up the brake gear, the most of it from second hand kit parts but the lever and guide folded up from brass. The coupling hook plates had to be made rather than from my little set of etched because they are much larger on this wagon 13 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted February 18, 2021 Author Share Posted February 18, 2021 nearly there but still a few things to do and 2 which should have been done before painting One little problem has just come up. I'm working from a Tatlow article from a 1975 model railway constructor, which is for the 1920's version which the main differences are the axle boxes and buffers but the issue here is a misinterpretation on my part of the drawing and works photo given. In the LNER photos there is a 3rd gusset on the solebar on the left hand end next to the horse hooks which isnt in the article, it also looks different to the others which made me assume it was a later addition. None of the gussets appear in the Sewell drawings in the NBR study group book. but i have today come across a photo for the 1906 version with all 3 gussets. i havent decided yet whether to add it 1906, 16 tonner. The 3rd gusset visible under the tare weight 7 6 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted February 19, 2021 Author Share Posted February 19, 2021 Final additions; Tare weight, handrail to the right of the B and the 2 loops that hang around the brake rods. there is supposed to be a number in the white crescent but the photo above is too blurry to read. This is a works style photo and it will now get some light weathering 13 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Northroader Posted February 19, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 19, 2021 The number in the crescent is the last shopping date, Sam, so just pick the date of your model, then knock a year or two off that. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted February 19, 2021 Author Share Posted February 19, 2021 its 1906/7 built and is intended for Eyemouth which set about in the same time, does this number also count for newly built? such as if i put 6 on it or would it be 06? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium J. S. Bach Posted February 19, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 19, 2021 (edited) 3 hours ago, sir douglas said: ...snip... there is supposed to be a number in the white crescent but the photo above is too blurry to read. ...snip... its 1906/7 built and is intended for Eyemouth which set about in the same time, does this number also count for newly built? such as if i put 6 on it or would it be 06? That number looks like a 17 or maybe a 12. I was able to enlarge it somewhat. 17 would be my guess as it is ten years from the build date. Edited February 19, 2021 by J. S. Bach Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Northroader Posted February 20, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 20, 2021 (edited) Edited February 20, 2021 by Northroader 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted February 20, 2021 Author Share Posted February 20, 2021 thanks for that The NB wagon is actually done now, The general weathering was coal dust brush on and the door grooves and below the doors in a matt black wash. i'm now thinking of doing the same thing to the G&SW wagon since that has been left clean for too long 12 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted February 21, 2021 Author Share Posted February 21, 2021 (edited) some menial tasks but still important. ive always put my intials on the underside of my wagons just as many others do but forgot to on some of them, then ive stared giving them numbers which correspond to the numbers on my stock list again many people already do this. Last night all the vans and brake van were fully labeled and some of the open wagons, while going through them i felt that the 3 Skytrex wagons were too heavy and weighed them, about 40g over some how. Today's job was cutting out the lead to bring them down to 120g*. the cutting was done with a 3mm drill in the dremel and sat the wagon in a plastic tub to minimise the mess om the bench. before starting All 3 after,left with a tub of lead and superglue swarf while im on this topic i also have a tub of bits salvaged from old O16.5 stock, with these 2 tubs of lead would it be possible or even worth it to be able to melt them down into little ingots that can be more easily re used?, there is over 100g of lead there which i would rather not have to throw away * up until now i set all my wagons to the recommended 125g but i now feel that it is excessive but some of them cant be easily changed so these will at least go down to 120g Edited February 21, 2021 by sir douglas 3 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Northroader Posted February 21, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 21, 2021 You can do it with an old tin can and a pair of pliers over a gas ring. Just plan it out very carefully where you're going to put things down, how you’re going to skim scum off, and where any spillages will end up, there’s a lot of heat trapped in the molten lead until its cooled, and you will end up dead if you leave any marks in the kitchen. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Signalman Rich Posted February 21, 2021 Share Posted February 21, 2021 (edited) Sam, I am enjoying your NB wagon build. In addition to Northroader's comments and not "wishing to teach granny to suck eggs" - Re recycling metal - I would be wary of melting lead or other low-melt alloys plus various additives indoors - they will likely give off noxious/harmful fumes as well as providing potential for kitchen damage. I have melted low melt alloy to pour into pre-prepared moulds in the garden where the wind blew the fumes away. I used a small camping gas burner to melt the metal. Peter Denny used to hollow out pieces of wood with axle holes made from dowel to make his uncompensated chassis for locos from lead. (see his book 'Buckingham Great Central') Perhaps it might be an idea to prepare some small oblong moulds from offcuts of pine or other wood to pour the molten metal into rather than have a great lump to have to deal with in the future. A ladle would keep the metal contained in small enough amounts to make the process safer. A old table spoon is an alternative if you do not have a ladle to hand. I have used both with success in the past. In case of accidents or unexpected errors I would suggest some leather gardening type gloves and some goggles as essential safety equipment. Make sure that all the moulds are bone dry too. Pouring liquid metal onto moisture will result in a shower of hot metal - not recommended! Hope this may be useful. Best wishes Rich Edited February 21, 2021 by Signalman Rich Missed out an acknowledgement of North roader's comment. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted February 21, 2021 Author Share Posted February 21, 2021 i know its going to be hot an very dangerous and have no plans on doing it without the precautions. Also forgot to clarify that the 100g is just the swarf but the tub of bits is much more. its going to have to wait until a warm day when the window and door can be left open if i pluck up the courage to try it myself 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted February 26, 2021 Author Share Posted February 26, 2021 rolling on, the Hunslet diesel is back on the bench which i think i last posted about in April last year. All the louvres are now on and ive done what i can with the chunky radiator grill, i could have just put some mesh in but it wouldnt look right and needed the depth. It is made up of strips with slots cut in to interlock. I also had a go at the Radiator name plate instead of getting an etched one. The cowcatchers will be the next tricky things to make 3 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted March 1, 2021 Author Share Posted March 1, 2021 (edited) The second tank wagon which was finished in April 2019 has been lettered. The lion and Albert was one of Stanley Holloway's most popular routines, this later has been known as Albert and the lion. i first knew of, and liked his stories from a CD my dad got many years ago. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oaw-savyK0s&ab_channel=bearzrecords ... and No30 for the year it was written by Marriot Edgar, 1930 Edited March 1, 2021 by sir douglas 8 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium J. S. Bach Posted March 1, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 1, 2021 2 hours ago, sir douglas said: ...snip... The lion and Albert was one of Stanley Holloway's most popular routines, ...snip... The same Stanley Holloway that was in My Fair Lady? If so, my favorite performance of his is "Get Me to the Church On Time": If so, I think that this is his best performance! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Collett Posted March 2, 2021 Share Posted March 2, 2021 (edited) 3 hours ago, sir douglas said: The lion and Albert was one of Stanley Holloway's most popular routines "There's a seaside resort called Blackpool, that's noted for fresh air and fun Where mister and missus Ramsbottom, went with young Albert their son. They didn’t think much to the ocean, the waves they was fiddlin’ and small There was no wrecks, and nobody drownded, in fact nothing to laugh at at all." I think it was around 1968 when a birthday party recitation of that song/poem/monologue earnt me a ten bob note. A measly 50p now it was untold riches to an eight year old back then when fruit salad chews were four for a penny (pre-decimalisation of course). Of course not forgetting Mr Holloway's splendid performance in 'The Titfield Thunderbolt', just to pull things back to a railways based theme. Lovely scratch-building, excellent work Sir. Edited March 2, 2021 by Collett Added Information 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted March 2, 2021 Author Share Posted March 2, 2021 14 hours ago, J. S. Bach said: The same Stanley Holloway that was in My Fair Lady? apparently yes https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stanley_Holloway 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted March 2, 2021 Author Share Posted March 2, 2021 more wagon weathering 6 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium J. S. Bach Posted March 2, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 2, 2021 I like the Mulberry Bush one the best. Did these outfits own the cars outright or were they leased? Most privately labeled cars here are leased from a few leasing companies such as GATX., UTLX, and NAHX. Note that the "X" in the reporting marks indicates the ownership is not by a railroad. It would not take too much for me to get interested in having a cut of cars like those; I already got a cabin car brake van (LMS 732418) at a recent train show; it is a start on a long, slippery slope! To be honest, I originally bought it to use as/convert to a work motor (maybe a sweeper and enclose the platforms) on my trolley line but it is just too nice to ruin! 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted March 2, 2021 Author Share Posted March 2, 2021 The companies fully owned the wagons but each wagon had to be registered with the mainline company to run over their line and as a way to make sure they are kept up to a good enough condition to run on the mainline. i don't know if or how much money is payed for this 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted March 3, 2021 Author Share Posted March 3, 2021 The 3H van is now finished, i procrastinated for a long time as the weathering was slow, tedious and i was quickly getting bored. This time i did the rest with a wash The dry brushed side done previously and note the difference with the washed end. i prefer the look of this side but my patience couldnt keep up The "main" side done Yesterday, and today the rest of van was added 10 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted March 6, 2021 Author Share Posted March 6, 2021 The Caledonian 7 ton, after going back over the drawing (link) many of the dimensions on what i had started were out and it would be more work than is worth to fix so i've scrapped it and started again. 8 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted March 8, 2021 Author Share Posted March 8, 2021 some festooning of ironwork. I'm a bit stuck though on the side doors, the drawing isnt clear on how the hinges and latches are mounted 7 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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