sir douglas Posted May 25, 2021 Author Share Posted May 25, 2021 Brake gear next, all the brake gear is soldered solid and held onto the chassis by a 14BA on the front arm and 8BA at the rear. In the middle, the rear brake arm just sits in place with a brass rod in a hole. 8 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted May 27, 2021 Author Share Posted May 27, 2021 Ive eventually decided to move the water tank forward but make a new tank, The pipe in the bunker has come out and a new pipe fitted tot he right hand side of the smokebox, also added are guard rails front and rear, just lengths of rail n brackets and intentional bent and mangled a little bit The feed pipe from the tank to the pump was added on the left hand side With the regulator handle and rod being made and fitted, it was time for cleaning and painting All the parts ready except for the tank which i forgot to include After the first coat, now including the tank in the middle, on the footplate behind the right hand sand pot you may see the new lid for the tank, thw wheel rims were getting scratched so they are bieng redone and bottom right one of the buffers has broken off. writing this reminded me i forgot to make the sanding pipes 10 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnson044 Posted May 30, 2021 Share Posted May 30, 2021 On 25/05/2021 at 21:19, sir douglas said: Brake gear next, all the brake gear is soldered solid and held onto the chassis by a 14BA on the front arm and 8BA at the rear. In the middle, the rear brake arm just sits in place with a brass rod in a hole. Any plans for that 8BA? Could you maybe fill the slot with solder and file the head to a small hexagon? You'd still be able to dismantle if you needed to. It's the only thing that jars in an otherwise really lovely model. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted May 30, 2021 Author Share Posted May 30, 2021 (edited) Johnson- i forgot to mention that the brake crank has a countersunk hole in it but ive only got 1 CS bolt left which was on the other side, i'll try turning a cheesehead down into a CS Its mostly done now, ive ended up wasting a lot of time with the painting, not just waiting each layer to dry but having to patch up where it has got chipped some repairs and changes to the chassis meant repainting those areas. Inside the boiler there used to be a piece to help locate the boiler but it is no longer needed and removed, axle covers have been added to stop the wires rubbing and the sanding pipes added. This oxide red looks nice for the chassis and flywheel so im keeping it as the main colour. I wasnt sure about the firebox side though, black, grey, oxide or blue? i settled on the latter. The other side which is inside the gear casing is light grey. Edited May 30, 2021 by sir douglas 12 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post sir douglas Posted May 31, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted May 31, 2021 I'm calling it done for now but there are a few things to do but it looks so nice that i cant bring myself to dismantle and sort out, such as; there is a stiffness in the running which i assume is a rubbing wheel arch and i forgot to put the coupling hooks in before the bodywork which will be quite awkward as it is so the hooks are just sat in loose. So because of the former issue I cant give you a running video and since its not a runner yet, I havent put the key in the middle gear On its own the loco looks very chunky but not when compared to a wagon 14 11 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34006 Posted May 31, 2021 Share Posted May 31, 2021 That's a very fine job indeed, sir. You reach heights others only aspire to. atb Phil 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted June 1, 2021 Author Share Posted June 1, 2021 Next chapter, since the scrapping of the Hudswell body years ago, i still wanted another one and while i was looking through what i could do with an old OO chassis i was given, the wheelbase was perfect for this. Many years ago a member of our club passed away and all his modelling estate came through the club and bought up except for one box with various loco chassis' motors and other bits in it. 3 of these are old Hornby tender drive units with a wheelbase of 56mm which is perfect for the 8ft wheelbase version 0-6-0 with 3ft wheels like D1121 "Manton" at Butterley or D707 at Rutland. There are others like D761 "Merlin" on the Worth Valley but they have the radiator all the way at the front but i prefer the look of the ones with the bonnet not covering the gearbox Manton https://www.flickr.com/photos/rossendalian2013/34507312060 Making up a drawing came first to get how the motor unit would fit, i decided on a metal inner chassis with a styrene outer. the drawing is mainly made up from various photos of Manton with help from a decent diagram drawing of the larger BR version because i believe that various things will be the same such widths and heights of the cab and bonnet. the grey is the motot unit and the ble is the inner chassis which also holds the jack shaft. before starting this about a month ago i wanted to make sure that the wheelbase is right so went through a few attempts with styrene scrap and some old wagon axles (dont have the driving wheels yet) which found that the wheelbase is actually short at 55.75 Knowing the right wheelbase, the rods were carefully to be correct and then used to fix errant bushes With motor, note that the bushes are stuck out, this is to leave room for the outer chassis and there is excess length on the rods at one end each to couple on the jack shaft extension at a later date the outer chassis All together 6 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted June 3, 2021 Author Share Posted June 3, 2021 (edited) some corrections to the drawing before i start cutting, im still not sure its correct but at least its close Edited June 3, 2021 by sir douglas 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted June 5, 2021 Author Share Posted June 5, 2021 the cab coming together, i'm thinking of a very minimal interior before putting the roof on. The floor piece has a big hole in it so the glazing can go in after painting With the left hand piece above cut out, this is the outer layer which will form the roof and sides of the cab, the inner layer is structural and forms the doors and window frames. ive left in a bit across the bottom of the door to keep it straight until its glued down 8 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted June 7, 2021 Author Share Posted June 7, 2021 Currently making the bonnet 12 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted June 11, 2021 Author Share Posted June 11, 2021 chassis gussets and bonnet grill. There are horizontal brackets between the main plates and bufferbeams in each corner and then 4 vertical between the main plates and footplate on each side. The rear sand pots are also fitted The main structure of the Bonnet is done. The tricky part was getting the grill flush since on the real thing, the bonnet front is all one piece of metal 10 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted June 12, 2021 Author Share Posted June 12, 2021 cab interior, as said it is minimal and is based on this photo https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/91857-hudswell-clarke-cab-interior-details-and-bonnet-top/&do=findComment&comment=1639552 doing it separately to make it easier painted and fitted, all round inside the cab has got a coat of light grey and black cab completed but not stuck down yet, while the bonnet is now stuck down 9 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted June 14, 2021 Author Share Posted June 14, 2021 (edited) As you know i need a secondary project to keep my attention which i can jump between the 2, so i'm going back to the scrapped horsebox which will now be a LSWR which ive found the Model Railway News 1952 drawing and i am doing the 16' version. like this (link), re arranged it to remove the 21' side. Then found out that it only represents a later modified form with metal sheet applied so i'm going to redraw to back date based on some photos Once i started i found what is either drawing error or scanning distortion on the end profiles which dont meet up with the side profile. The bodywork is low but the rail and axle centre meets up Edited June 14, 2021 by sir douglas 1 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted June 14, 2021 Author Share Posted June 14, 2021 edit: 1952 not 54 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted June 15, 2021 Author Share Posted June 15, 2021 (edited) nearly there, for a lot of it i ignored the MRN drawing and instead used other sources such as a photo for the beading, a brake van drawing for the buffers (but elongated) and a loco drawing for the vac pipes. Theres a lot of the proportions i'm not happy with but it will have to do such as the panels above the attendants door and the upper half of the horse door Edited June 16, 2021 by sir douglas 5 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted June 19, 2021 Author Share Posted June 19, 2021 The finished drawing. i dont claim it to be correct, its all guess work. Adequate rather than accurate. Take it as more of a guide than fact notes: - the vents are louvred not just slots - ive shown the side profile without the roof overhand overlapping it - the fittings for the door on the other side are not reversed, hinges left hand and handle right a photo from here which is from the MRN article https://www.steve-banks.org/prototype-and-traffic/378-sr-lswr-horse-box and one from here, which is how i worked out the beading https://sremg.org.uk/vandw/hbox.shtml Also noted that the windows appear to be the same width so i had to move the door to the left a bit from the MRN to get equal windows looking at some photos of built kits, the beading is slightly wrong compared with the above photo https://mulberryworks.co.uk/dscf0104/ This what i believe is the missing beading on the above model ive got another photo, this one really good quality but i cant remember where i got it from. the brake lever is different on this one but i ignored that 10 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted June 21, 2021 Author Share Posted June 21, 2021 Construction phase now, the chassis was already built before i started the drawing. This time for the body, the sides are being detailed beofre assembly as its easier to mark out 7 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted June 23, 2021 Author Share Posted June 23, 2021 8 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted July 3, 2021 Author Share Posted July 3, 2021 further procrastinations, finishing off the repairs to a brakevans and wagons, finishing the lettering of another wagon and ive been rebuilding and repainting a 1:35 unimog which fell and broke years ago I never got around to completing the second of my wooden dumb buffers, leaving the lettering half finished how it was last done 3 years ago Now with a repaint, re-lettering and weathering Withing my little collection of wagon bits is what appears to be GW van ends which came in a bag of second hand brake gear parts i wanted, i also have white metal frames which appear to be GW so i thought why not make a Mink out them Parts laid out, ive already made start by adding bufferbeams to the ends and scavenged the wheels from one of the unfinished carriages. ive stripped the whitemetal in Dettol but there is still some areas of paint somehow not affected even after soaking for 2 days 12 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted July 7, 2021 Author Share Posted July 7, 2021 6 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted July 10, 2021 Author Share Posted July 10, 2021 There maybe a lot less wodwork to do but a lot more bolts instead adding the bottoms of the bodywork on the solebar 5 13 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium J. S. Bach Posted July 11, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 11, 2021 You have the patience of Job! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted July 13, 2021 Author Share Posted July 13, 2021 I just happen to have a pair of matching brake gear left to do this van, i have another set which is reserved for the horsebox. Even though these are supposed to be for 9ft wheelbase they have quite a gap from the wheels so the crank was cut off and theyve been fitted to some styrene angle with a new crank. Some 1mm brass wire has been glued in for the axlebox stays. The V hangers are steel which were salvaged form an old scratch built course scale wagon and i filed them down as they were a bit chunky. I know that the brake rod arrangement is wrong from 1 side to the other but i'm not changing it. On the right is most of the remaining metal work such as brake lever, hook plates and the brake rod loops. Close up fo the GWR ratchet type lever rack, brass strip folded and soldered then styrene rack glued inside it. Mink vans with ordinary brake levers did exist apparently so this is what i'm going with.. and that i cant be bothered with the DC brake arrangement 7 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted July 18, 2021 Author Share Posted July 18, 2021 Not done but nearly, it seems ive lost my GW stencil from doing the Peco wagon, though its easy enough to remake 13 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted July 20, 2021 Author Share Posted July 20, 2021 i'm going to leave the lettering at that, the tare and load weights are in a fancy font so i'm not even going to attempt it or at least any time soon. Some day i might get transfers for them. Just some light weathering to do now and this van is done. I like making stock names and numbers into jokes or references, this van is No 34 in my stock list and i wondered what that is in binary (i know absolutely nothing about this, its just a load of 1's and 0's to me) a quick google says that it is 100010, which purely by chance fits the region of numbers of many surviving mink bodies which are in the 90000's and early 100000's (i also know nothing about GW wagon numbering) as listed in the RHRP register 17 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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