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for a long time ive been thinking of how to get the Moyse running after not being able to get the belt drive working since i built it 2 years ago

 

quick recap since its been a while, the loco in question

L10bayard(18).JPG.cd98e6d2d56a86de3fb07d7815463ef1.JPG

 

the old power arrangement of a N20+gearbox driven through bevel gears and then coupled by home made pulleys

L10Bayard(13).JPG.ebb660fdded625f4fa642045f83a95c8.JPG

then last year i figured, the N20 motor would fit side ways in the middle with 2 equal gear trains either way to the axles

L10bayard(19).jpg.754fc7bbed20a50634163dd3a77593f6.jpg

L10bayard(20).jpg.4bb2f6cd066c0f621010c05ce7fc67a0.jpg

 

But i didnt have any suitable sized gears to try out, which i do now. i had to get a new N20 motor as the right hand one has a very short shaft with a brass gear fixed on, so i'll leave t as it is to use on something else

L10bayard(21).jpg.d9c0faa6409c63077c2613d9a777de06.jpg

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On 07/03/2024 at 20:58, sir douglas said:

Riveting the Roberts tank

Do you drill them or just glue slivers of rod in place?

 

I've used railtec transfers to good effect for some fine ones on a Dapol model and you cant tell the difference from the originals. For an old Cooper Craft China clay conversion, which has quite large bolt heads, I cut them off the end I was turning into a door, then glued them back on again where needed. It's a bit of a faff to get things looking even though.

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spent most of today drawing, ive a gear train sorted but now need to decide on the framing for it

L10bayard(23).png.6e8a83401c74d32d1453b27edef04623.png

 

and preparing gears; the larger gears are second hand 11mm Heljan, the middle 4 are 6mm cut in half and the 4 smaller cut off the side of a set of 16mm gears. not shown is the 4mm gear on the motor but i couldnt just get 1 so had to buy a pack of them

L10bayard(22).jpg.56c392e6d679dbafd6dbd91d415c6577.jpg

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