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while spending a bit more time at the club working on Eyemouth and not having the enthusiasm right now for making the Hudswell's chimney, ive gone back to the short midland cattle. with a set of Slaters 7156 buffer components which is just a set of buffers without the stocks. were put into the existing stocks on the wagon but the inner diameter of the stock is too large so the spring has nothing to sit against, these stocks were changed out for another set which did fit the buffers from the box of Airnimal goodies. i had previously fitted the hooks but i have not made the chain as i think the links are a bit too short. i think the brass jig has gradually worn down on the ends. ive made links for 7 locos and about 20 wagons which is about 160 links so wear is understandable for a soft metal like brass. for now im just going to solder on a small extension to the jig to fix it but one day would like to make a steel jig.

 

with that set aside for now, it just left the brake gear to do. A rummage in my bits gave a pair of whitemetal shoes, the arms were cut off and one side was filed flat and these flat sides glued against a styrene angle on the underside of the floor. the lever is a length of nickel etch fret and the rack slaters. strips of brass make up the rodding soldered together in situ superglued on the shoe end.

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some areas needed another coat of grey while the brakegear needed it as a base coat but the tin had dried out. another grey was chosen which meant going over the whole wagon, for a while ive been thinking about the need to white wash the wagon and also my 2 previous cattle wagons so i had a go at it on all 3. the short midland is aesthetically done now apart form the chain and lead weight underneath. midland on the left, then LNWR and LTSR on the right

cattle_MR_(8)_LNWR_LTSR.JPG.a182a46f28a2a6792ee35d137f27cf7e.JPG

 

 

Edited by sir douglas
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  • 2 weeks later...

work on my stock has slowed down as either lack of parts to progress or  problems and set backs,

 

The tank wagon, has had the brake gear made up and is being painted. a base coat of grey all over and a first coat of blue, not the same dark blue as the other tank this one is an old Humbrol 11. Its nearly there but since i dont have the buffers yet i cant add the final few grams into the hole and put the lid on.

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the body of the Hudswell "Artoria" is going well but ive just ran out of handrail knobs with 2 left to do, more needed to aquire. Handrails (minus 1), door handles and bonnet steps in place.

770069973_artoria(42).JPG.cb5880766fb3b0d79ab1a7181fa4a4be.JPG

 

while fitting the body to the chassis i found that somehow the footplate has ended up curved even though i built it all up on a piece of glass, so just the 1 screw at the front will only hold down the front but not the back soo a clip was fitted there under the cab. 

 

Firstly the front, a H shaped brass plate with a hole sits in the bottom of the chassis and the bolt goes through this into a nut encased in styrene on the top side of the footplate inside the transmission housing, and secondly a bent nickel strip is bolted into the frames near the back end. a hook shaped nickel plate is bolted into the under side of the fooplate under the cab which clips into the strip. to allow for the body to slide into the clip, the motor hole had to be elongated.

543636436_artoria(39).JPG.48b6137d0068069512066108cf822d2d.JPG

 

artoria_(36).JPG.e2dbe2d7df6b10ef1f52c8c9d2eb78c1.JPG

 

Even though i keep adjusting the wheels, at least 1 of them keeps coming out of place. the b#st#rd thing refuses to run smoothly but i'll keep coming back to it as a long term project.

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Very nice work on the ex-Atlas WDT critter. While dredging in one of my sheds last week, I found nine! of them. I later remembered that I had bought a few for a conversion project. I had planned on using the drives to make a C+C boxcab electric similar to what the New Haven, Milwaukee, and others had but, like the plans of mice and men, my plans Gang aft a-gley! I hope that you soon get the driver quartering straightened out.

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“Problems and set backs”, stuff happens, as my son is fond of saying. Still, there’s some nice models taking shape, I particularly like the curved plastic pieces for the diesel. Then there’s Eyemouth in progress, I reckon you’re doing alright, Sam.

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  • 2 weeks later...

2 sets of buffers and 2 sets of axleboxes purchased from invertrain. 1 set of buffers for the tank wagon and the other for the bolster twins, both of the axleboxes are also for them

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light repairs needed on the lagentium tank as the lid handles and the discharge valve wheel broke off at some time. the new wheel is a brass etch from Wizard models and is soldered to a bit of brass wire and super glued into the mounting. the lid screw handles have been replaced with brass wire superglued in. while on the bench, the coupling hooks were replaced with the usual ambis ones, i wasnt happy anymore with the old ones which i made years ago. and the drawbar plate positioning needed sorting as well.

325899313_wagontanklagentium(29).JPG.0954b88bc9acf51584493de46a8a5a13.JPG

 

With buffers and hooks on, the last bits of lead were dropped into the hole and the lid attached. The wagon is now physically done but still a lot of painting to do.

922039829_tankwagon2(7).JPG.83c6f60a20e76ffac739ec4d47c81100.JPG

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The tank has got matt black for the iron work but it doesnt look right against the gloss blue so will have to go over the black with gloss

wagon_rank_2_(8).JPG.b013790dc32df48c7446c2c6f26ac533.JPG

 

Next job on the bench is a jubilee wagon for Eyemouth. ive already got the bits to get started, buffers, wheels, bearings and axleboxes. chassis stated on the right with 3x6mm styrene. and no the bearings didnt cost 8.40

1904716928_wagonjub(1).JPG.b95c50afa3a834b8574c2bcef7626e39.JPG

 

1.75mm scribed for the body

525836665_wagonjub(2).JPG.4ef9ad1b3be223c1da9aa59d7940de92.JPG

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Excellent work as ever but before you go too far, and I'm guessing this is the sort you mean, the NBR Jubilee wagons had end doors

 

They had end doors that were reinforced and hung off 2 O rings on a top rail, with a gap between?  

thCY1UWX1U.jpg

Edited by DOCJACOB
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53 minutes ago, DOCJACOB said:

Excellent work as ever but before you go too far, and I'm guessing this is the sort you mean, the NBR Jubilee wagons had end doors

 

They had end doors that were reinforced and hung off 2 O rings on a top rail, with a gap between?  

thCY1UWX1U.jpg

Looking at the photo the planking on the end is vertical so you may have already allowed for this Sam, but still need to add the detail.

 

Jamie

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yes i know about the end door. this build is being done from a drawing in a 1976 model railway constructor magazine  that just happened to come into my possession at just the right time in a pile of mags to go to our exhibition stand

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  • 2 weeks later...

another grand day out yesterday at York, and a right scorcher too. my purchases of the day are some 14BA nuts & bolts, brass wire and tube from Eileens. From agenoria i got a little chassis for £5 and some etches from the scrap box. the chassis is a bargain, the wheels and bearings new  are over £30. he said it was going to be centre cab electric loco, im not going to keep the frames as the fooplate level is way too high and would probably not be usable for what ever i eventually use the wheels for. no idea what the frame sides are supposed to be but it doesnt matter, they'll get used one day

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In other news, its confirmed i'm going to Upton next weekend with Deffors. a small 1 day model railway show in Upton methodist church

https://www.google.co.uk/maps/place/Upton+Methodist+Church/@53.6071755,-1.431976,11z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x48796c58617ac3a7:0x5ef2e15d99187d6!8m2!3d53.6134611!4d-1.2823946

Capture.JPG.4338c4125baef5e403bd6d3db676d240.JPG

 

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had a fun day at Upton on Saturday but a few liitle problems cropped up which couldnt be fixed there and then. Halfmoon wasnt used because the low buffer beam was catching on the bolt heads on the layout fiddleyard, this was sorted yesterday by filing slight angles on the bufferbeam corners and and cutting down the bolt end. J.Aspdin failed, the solder between the bearing and nut on the driven axle broke. This of course will mean a full dis assembly to fix.

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Highwind wasnt used because the chains were short and the point of the hooks needs opening out a tiny bit. both of these have been done now, some wagons also needed attention such as longer chain and replacement of hooks, springs or split pins. all the stock is out on the layout and im having some play sessions, swapping the locos and wagons around at random to see how each vehicle couples and interacts with each other, one of the dumb buffer wagons needed longer chain and i also cut down the buffers to just a bit longer than the hooks. This has sorted running problems in a particular spot on the layout. Each problem is written down and then later i have a go at fixing it, i had about half an hour playing last night which brought up the wagon problems just mentioned. 

 

ive blacked off under the layout to hide the mess of boxes and plastic bags of stuff that i dont want to show 

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The repairs to J Aspdin's gearbox is done but now ive realised that it has the same problem as Hestia in that the gearbox was built with a high ratio to work with a bad motor but now it has a good motor it doesnt need that ratio. when i replaced the motor in Hestia, i also rebuilt the gearbox to a lower ratio, its one of the best runners in my fleet coming third under Halfmoon and Nautilus. So now J Aspdin runs again but its too slow as the gear ratio is too high which means a complete rebuild one day, ive lost track how many gearboxes this loco has had now.

 

The old gear fixing screw was a nut & bolt soldered to a bearing which is what failed, the new one again like the others, half of a wire connecting block. the hole had to be opened out to 3/16th, the length was filed down to the minimum possible and the screw head diameter was filed down. while working on the new block i didnt want to put it in the clamp and deform it so it was held with something 3/16 inside to keep the shape, in this case a dremel bit for cutting disks.

j_aspdin_(109).JPG.8570e95c22861fbce905b71eba165223.JPG

 

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thankyou. My gazette came in through door today and i went straight to my article, very impressed by the editor's creative arrangement of my photos. a second part to come in a future issue covering Skyrack, Thunderchild and Hestia. But of course those who read this thread have a much more in depth description of the builds. i might do further write ups one day on Nautilus and Highwind, or some of my wagons.

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  • 2 weeks later...

i think ive settled on what to do with that little chassis from Agenoria. I'm just re using the wheels and bearings and if i get crank extensions i would like to do the plan No 10 in the Boulton sidings Oakwood press book. theres either very little or no info for any of the drawings and since i dont have the David & Charles book, i can only go on whats in the boulton sidings thread, from the photos in the thread i first thought it was Star but now think it is Swallow. they were both rebuilt from ex Liverpool & Manchester, Swallow being No 69 and Star No 41 and both ended up lookeing very similar with minor differences. The wheels ive got are 3'3" and the wheels in the drawing are 3'6", i dont think that a 3" differences will be noticable so im going with it. But it might not be any time soon before i start.

 

Swallow

 

Star (left)

Currently on the work table, i started a few days ago on a Rother Valley brake van

https://colonelstephenssociety.co.uk/light railway modelling/light railway modelling rvr.html

 

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The bodywork is about done apart from the glazing and handrails to go on after painting. will move onto the brake gear next.

1647499946_brakevanrother(3).JPG.524e8adaa48b9f3e27b328148f6356f7.JPG

 

ive been looking up threads on how to paint teak, the general consensus is to put on a layer of pale orange/golden brown then go over with a thinned down dark brown, im experimenting on the underside. this is my first attempt, there are 2 versions here but only slightly different. the first 1 has a base layer of tanned flesh which is what ive got closest to the ideal colour, then the second half is that but with a bit of tamiya orange mixed in. i quite like both and will probable use both to randomize the wood tone as well as maybe using a pale green and tan as shown in the link below

brakevan_rother_(4).JPG.d3c48b5951c8b9de3cbf1f24ea28dd15.JPG

 

 

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Ive now had my first try at teak, the golden brown is right but i'll need practice to get the brush strokes for the wood grain

brakevan_rother_(5).JPG.99b4dd9b9fa9e88d17d1b5f1830f9c1d.JPG

 

i've also tried weathering carriage 3, its supposed to be a green carriage that the paint has peeled and flaked off but its just looking more like a rotten carriage that is covered in mould & moss. Also, the strps of wood are for thr footboards

carriage_3_(23).JPG.920370a3f8fb54db672a3d45412f68cb.JPG

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sparodic work still being done on the rother brake, handrails, glazing, roof, double door latches, buffers and couplings added with all the "ironwork" painted in gloss black. the body still needs the handles for the singl doors. to the right of the van are the brake gear cut out yet to be cut and filed to profile

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neither the photo or the drawng on the society website shows were the brake column is to work out the brake rodding so i'll jsut have to make it up to look right

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Another good day at Doncaster, and i might be going to Telford but just the saturday.

 

I asked Salters about crank extensions but it isnt possible from their products. While going round the show i spotted a pair of slaters 7854 "leicester & Swannington" 4'6" second hand, they look older and the ends of the axles are round not "D" nor square, so i got a pair of new outside crank axles and cranks to go with them. Also bought was a hand full of packets from the E&T, buffers, bearings and wagon wheels. I also took "Highwind" with me to run in on the test track, which there will be 2 short videos sometime today or tomorrow

 

So ive now sorted the driving wheels for my Swallow build and i'll put aside those 4'3" 's for something else

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