JB Models: 1:450, 1:87 & 1:76 scale models and detailing parts.

[Multiple identity account]

Hey,

I am pretty new to 3D modelling but I discovered Sketchup a few months ago. IMO it seems to be the easiest of all 3D softwares and I instantly took a liking to it. Railways like those in Sri Lanka, The UAE and India are not represented at all so I thought I'd take a try at designing some models whilst I save up money to have them 3D printed.

My first model which I started yesterday is the WDM-3D that is used in India, Bangladesh and Sri Lanka. I will be doing on the Indian version. Here are some images below. So far I just got the chassis done. I try to add as much detail as possible. Hope you'll like it?

For each model I will edit/update this post to eliminate confusion. So as and when I finish doing the body and bogies I will add it to this post.

HO scale (1:87) WDM-3D (Updated 6/11/14):

The files that will be 3D printed from a supplier that I am still not sure off...


Overview


Overview


Overview


Overview


I plan on using an upcoming NWSL Co-Co "Stanton" drive system to power this. In the long run I'd also like to add stuff like DCC sound and lighting. Anyone who has used the NWSL Stanton drive units? I'd love to hear some feedback.

Cheers.

[Marbelup]

Hi Jeffery
Yes, 3D printing is ideal for modelling the smaller rail systems which will never be viable for the large manufacturers of ready-to-run models.

[Multiple identity account]

Thanks Marbelup.

Cheers!
JBM.

[Multiple identity account]

I have updated my initial post with the completed images of my 1:87 scale WDM-3D.

Cheers!
JBM

[Revolution Mike]

Hi Jeffery

 

Nice work - what are you planning to put in the empty spaces? Etches?

 

I would try uploading it to Shapeways and i.materialise to see if it will print!

 

Cheers, Mike

[Multiple identity account]

Hi Mike,

Thank you so much for the compliments. Well the empty spaces serve two purposes - 1) being to reduce the cost where ever there is flat surfaces and 2) being etched see through grilles. The 2 bigger rectangular spaces and smaller one towards the center are to fill in with 1mm plastikard with the doors engraved on them and etched door hinges. The other smaller empty spaces on the short hood, long hood and the bigger one near the end are actually grilles, I plan on having them etched so that I have a nice see through effect.

I have already uploaded the parts to Shapeways. Got a warning for 0.3mm thin walls.

Cheers,
JBM.

[Barnaby]

As my interest is 7mm 0 gauge and I know a fair bit about the inkjet, toner and printing in general I wonder if your H0 drawing files would be easily scalable to "0"  just as you would say when you want to enlarge A4 up to A3.

 

The idea being you take the files and just run them to suit your preferred scale.  Of course I would expect to have to pay for the files and the 3-D process too.

 

Regards

[Multiple identity account]

@ Mike (red death)

Hope this pic makes it clear.

Cheers!
JBM.

[Revolution Mike]

That seems sensible - you might find it easier to assemble if you design in a small lip inside the edges of the holes which would hold the etch/plasticard at the right depth.

 

Cheers, Mike

[Multiple identity account]

Hi Mike,

Thanks for that suggestion. If you look closely the lips are already added, I may re-design them if needed. I've marked out the lips in red.



The etches can get away with it as all the grilles sit on the face of the locomotive. So the etches will just be glued onto the protruding boxes.

Cheers!
JBM.

[Marbelup]

Hi Jeff

 

Depending on the material you choose, the plasticard panels may not reduce the cost.  The cost for some materials is based on the "bounding box" occupied by the model, so what you include or leave out doesn't affect the price.  For Prime Gray, it would save a bit as the cost is mainly based on the volume of resin used in the actual model.

 

I am well advanced on a new diesel - a WAGR/Westrail D Class.  This is basically a narrow gauge version of an SD38.  To keep things simple, I have included all grilles and doors in the 3D design.  I finished the chassis and fuel tank yesterday and both are on order from i.Materialise while I continue to work on the body and bogie sideframes.

[Multiple identity account]

Hey all,

Marbelup actually beat me to it. I was going to post an update saying that I was going change the supplier for the 3D printed parts. I am going to be using the good folk at 3DPRINTUK https://www.3dprint-uk.co.uk/ The folk at 3DPRINTUK charge for the 3D prints based on the volume of the bounding box. Going by the prices of FUD on Shapeways I was paying in excess of $119 USD with delivery. And this was excluding the detail on the long hood, bogie frames and buffers. So it could have easily crossed $135 USD.

Last night I placed all the parts of my file excluding the above mentioned and sent it to 3DPRINTUK for a quote, a quick response within 30 mins informed me that the entire 3D print (charged as per the bounding box) would set me back only $106 USD with delivery. It saves my dad quite a bit and for something that has a good feel to it.

This evening I will post images.

Cheers!
JBM.

[Multiple identity account]

Hi Jeff

 

Depending on the material you choose, the plasticard panels may not reduce the cost.  The cost for some materials is based on the "bounding box" occupied by the model, so what you include or leave out doesn't affect the price.  For Prime Gray, it would save a bit as the cost is mainly based on the volume of resin used in the actual model.

 

I am well advanced on a new diesel - a WAGR/Westrail D Class.  This is basically a narrow gauge version of an SD38.  To keep things simple, I have included all grilles and doors in the 3D design.  I finished the chassis and fuel tank yesterday and both are on order from i.Materialise while I continue to work on the body and bogie sideframes.

Forgot to mention, your WAGR D Class looks marvelous.  

 

Cheers!

JBM.

[Marbelup]

Jeff

 

Just to be sure, you do realise 3D Print Uk only do the equivalent of Shapeways WSF.  Will you be happy with that quality?

[Multiple identity account]

Jeff

 

Just to be sure, you do realise 3D Print Uk only do the equivalent of Shapeways WSF.  Will you be happy with that quality?

I was told that their models have a much smoother finish compared to WSF. Similar but much smoother. I will check again though. Anyway no purchases will be made until Feb/March 2015.

 

JBM.

[Multiple identity account]

Hi,

I've updated POST #1 that contains all the WDM-3D images.

@Marbelup,

I contacted 3DPRINTUK to confirm about the texture. They assured me that the 3D print has a matte finish but it's much smoother/finer than that of WSF. So in simple terms 3DPRINTUK's work is matte whilst WSF is grainy.

Cheers.
JBM.

PS: I will enquire further about the 3D prints though.

[Marbelup]

Hmmm.  Photos on 3D Print UK web site (e.g. http://www.3dprint-uk.co.uk/portfolio/from-50-down-to-3-cost-saving-tips-for-3d-printing/) look pretty much like WSF to me.

 

You might want to print a small sample before committing to the whole loco.  I did that when I started about 2 years ago.  I printed just the short hood from my WAGR R class loco from three different suppliers in about 5 different materials.

[Multiple identity account]

Hmmm.  Photos on 3D Print UK web site (e.g. http://www.3dprint-uk.co.uk/portfolio/from-50-down-to-3-cost-saving-tips-for-3d-printing/) look pretty much like WSF to me.

 

You might want to print a small sample before committing to the whole loco.  I did that when I started about 2 years ago.  I printed just the short hood from my WAGR R class loco from three different suppliers in about 5 different materials.

Hi,

 

Yes I do that, I have this small test file of a junction/electrical box which I made specifically for a test. It has various tolerances like 0.3mm surface detail, 0.5mm walls and 1.0mm walls, rivets, flat surfaces etc so perfect for a test print and yet small enough so as to be affordable.

 

Cheers!

JBM.

 

[Barnaby]

Hello,

Where's the best place to get some general information on getting something produced.  My interest is in 0 gauge and all though I am capable of drawing in cad I'd probably look to get the files drawn up too, at least in the first instance.

 

Thanks.

[Revolution Mike]

The 3DprintUK guys only produce WSF - they might be a bit better than Shapeways, but nowhere near the quality of FUD. IIRC they are using the same machines as Shapeways WSF.

 

For $15-30 I would go for FUD every time (or prime grey if that works for you).

 

Cheers, Mike

[Multiple identity account]

Hi Mike,

I am still waiting for a quote from i.materialise for the Prime Grey. I ideally would go for the Prime Grey but then heard that I might face problems with the 0.3mm details.It's been over 3 days now. No other site said there was an issue with my model except i.materialise. So I am waiting for them to check it manually. If the cost of Prime grey is below $140 I will take it.

Cheers!
JBM.

[Multiple identity account]

Hello,

Where's the best place to get some general information on getting something produced.  My interest is in 0 gauge and all though I am capable of drawing in cad I'd probably look to get the files drawn up too, at least in the first instance.

 

Thanks.

Sorry your first post slipped by, but if you could be more specific then we can help. AFAIK companies like Shapeways, 3DPRINTUK, i.materialise etc. offer a service to design your product and also 3D print them (if that's what you'd like??)

 

Cheers!

JBM.

[Barnaby]

Yes thanks JB I've just been thinking about the usefulness and ease to get some obscure item 3-D printed.  I've also found the full forum for 3-D printing and not just this topic so I'll have a look through it, gain some knowledge and see were we go.

Thanks again.

 

Best regards

[Penrhos1920]

For $15-30 I would go for FUD every time (or prime grey if that works for you).

 

Cheers, Mike

 

Is Prime Gray as good as FUD assuming you can live with the 1mm wall thickness?

[Marbelup]

Re Prime Gray vs. FUD

 

I think FUD has better detail and finer layering.  Downsides of FUD are that it requires special cleaning techniques to remove traces of the wax support material, and the parts of the surface which have been in contact with the wax have a different texture to the remainder.  The varying surface texture was the deal-breaker for me, as it was still quite apparent after painting.

 

On the other hand, Prime Gray has a uniform surface finish which takes paint well without cleaning.  The upper surfaces of the prints have a very smooth finish (like glass) which can be used to advantage depending on the print orientation.  Although more brittle than styrene, I think Prime Gray is tougher and less brittle than FUD.  Prime Gray is somewhat flexible but small parts can break without warning if overstressed.  Prime Gray will have supports or remnants of supports which require cleaning up.

 

My experience with Prime Gray (2 years now) is that is it quite stable and doesn't have any inherent shrinkage or distortion.  Thin sections, e.g. a diesel loco chassis, will sag slightly if unsupported over a long length, but the sag can be corrected (e.g. by turning the part upside down so gravity works the other way).