Show me your concrete....

[topsy11]

Hello.

 

I've been looking around and seen some lovely concrete effects. I'm looking at first of all painting my platform edge and want to see what looks/works best.

 

If you've got a picture of any concrete effect/painting you've done and wish to share that'd be greatly appreciated. If you could also add what paint/technique you've used to create the effect that'd also be a massive help.

 

Much appreciated.

 

Mark

[PaulWarb]

Hi Mark

 

Do you like this?  Concrete effect on Peco Platform Edging - below that - concrete edged platform at Chester.  I will not be offended if you are after a different effect and I'm not fishing for compliments, but if you do like it I'll give you more details.

 

 

[BrushType4]

That's great! Please post details!

[topsy11]

Hi Paul,

 

Many thanks for taking the time to post! Thats superb mate   details of what you used and how you managed to get the effect would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Mark

[Judge Dread]

For a good painted concrete finish I use Tamiya XF-55 "Deck Tan". It's an acrylic paint also.

[tamperman36]

you've captured the effect very well looking good, love it you'll have to describe how you did it.

[russ p]

For older not to smooth concrete I have used rustolium stone effect spray

[topsy11]

Some superb examples guys and all very different!

[Judge Dread]

you've captured the effect very well looking good, love it you'll have to describe how you did it.

You can get a lot of info from my website which is www.thewheel.karoo.net  If you require anything further, by all means PM me or e-mail. John.

[PaulWarb]

Hi Paul,

 

Many thanks for taking the time to post! Thats superb mate   details of what you used and how you managed to get the effect would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Mark

 

Here you go Mark - hope it's not too tedious!!!  

 

Firstly the concrete effect in the post below mine looks great (Judge Dread) - this is clearly newer concrete structures being modelled though.

 

My platform edging reflects years of dirt!   It's all acrylics. Colours you will need - black, white, brown (maybe yellow, green to make the brown less red of necessary), orange, red.

 

Most is done with washes - started with greys - not too watered down. Gradually build up washes of darker grey over the lighter - let the paint 'flow' over the surface rather than brushing too much.  Try to get an overall background colour you are happy with.  Next add a few areas of browns - maybe rust stains (look at the photo - and others you might find - do a Google image search). Probably at this stage pick out the horizontal lines between the concrete panels - you will need a fine brush and a steady hand!! Finally add darker grey - almost black (avoid just black - alter it with a little white and / or brown) washes - you can move this around a bit with a brush to get the patchy look shown in the photo. Finally when it is dry add some details e.g. white paint that has run down the concrete from painting of the platform edge.

 

Use photos like the one shown - be observant - don't slavishly try to copy photos - you will probably be frustrated - just go for the effect.

 

My layout is still in the very early stages as you might have gathered from the photo.

[Andy Y]

(Click to enlarge)

 

The techniques used for 'concreting' this inlaid track may help; only step 5 onwards is relevant.

 

1.                      The track is glued to the base with PVA. This example uses Peco Code 100 track and the dimensions given for materials below may be different if you use this technique with other products.

2.                      Cork tiles or sheets are laid up to the edge of the sleeper ends. The thickness of the cork should be fractionally less than the height of the rail head.

3.                      Fab Foam (available from Hobbycraft) is cut into 5mm strips and fed into the gap between the rails and the cork tiles. When satisfied with the fit glue down with PVA.

4.                      Cut a 14mm wide strip of Fab Foam and lay/glue in between the rails leaving an even gap either side of the foam. The foam is extremely flexible which means you can infill between the rails of sharply curved track without any problems.

5.                      The surface is sprayed with Plasti-kote Suede Touch Projekt Paint which is available from major DIY retailers in an aerosol can.

6.                      Spraying over the suede paint from a couple of feet away with grey and white primers tones the colour down and introduces a lightly speckled finish.

7.                      Once dry the joint lines in the concrete are created by using a craft knife to score lines into the cork. This reflects that most concrete is laid in manageable sections by pouring in between wooden shuttering. There is no fixed size for this but take a tape measure to a similar site to that which you are modelling.

8.                      Your concrete can have random cracks made by further scoring. Using a pencil or black ink pen mark out the score lines made above to enhance the definition.

 

The same techniques apply to the concrete bridge on Black Country Blues.