Hattons announce 14xx / 48xx / 58xx

[woodenhead]

16 minutes ago, chuffinghell said:

I did ask Hatton's of they where going to commision another batch of the whole range again but they said they had no plans to do so at the moment, shame really because I would have liked a H1401 48xx 'GREAT WESTERN' lettering

 

I came back to the hobby too late, either that or I shouldn't have gone down the GWR route 

You could always ask Dave Jones what he has in stock.

 

He has been selling off returns at shows and at Stafford there was at least one Great Western livery locomotive there.

 

Failing that, keep an eye on Ebay, that's where I got mine.

Edited February 12, 2019 by woodenhead
spelling

[chuffinghell]

6 minutes ago, woodenhead said:

You could always ask Dave Jones what he has in stock.

 

He has been selling off returns at shows and at Stafford there was at least one Great Western livery locomotive there.

 

Failing that, keep an eye on Ebay, that's where I got mine.

 

I'm always checking eBay

 

I did contact Dave a while ago and he said he'd look if he had a return but I never had an further replies and I didn't want to pester him so I left it

[Sir TophamHatt]

On 08 February 2019 at 17:59, hodgkinr said:

I now want to put a DCC decoder in it and was wondering what one to buy.

 

I put a Lenz or Zimo in mine I think.

The settings I used will be a few pages back but they work okay for me.

But then either I'm not seeing the bad running others have had, or my first was a good one.

 

I ran mine in for about 15 mins either way on DC before chip fitting.

[chuffinghell]

Finally got around to adding the coupling chain and steam heat pipes from the detail pack.

 

The steam heat pipes went on no problem

 

The coupling chain however was not the easiest thing to fit but with a combination of patients, persistence and more than a few expletives I finally got them fitted

 

Also wiped of some of the weathering from the number plate to let the brass show through, I like it which is the main thing

 

Fred photo bombed one of the photos, his clothing is still looking shiny despite the application of Matt varnish

 

 

Edited March 16, 2019 by chuffinghell

[Bustered]

Just popped into Hattons and tried H1410 and H1411 on their test track. H1410 relatively smooth but slipped to a standstill on slight changes of gradient, H1411 was appreciably smoother and gradient might as well have not been there; no effect on performance.

It was a smooth runner even at slow speed, no nasty noises, so its now sitting on my rolling road running in; will keep fingers crossed!

The lady serving was very helpful and testing each model was no problem.

 

Best wishes

Nige

[Bustered]

Fitted one of Hatton’s 6 pin decoders after running in, no cv adjustments and runs beautifully at all speeds including very slowly. Dead chuffed ( no pun intended).

 

Best wishes

Nige

[jwd]

On 24/10/2018 at 13:06, Hattons Dave said:

 

Hi Tom,

 

The following CV changes will assist with the operation of the 14xx's coreless motor on DCC.

• CV5 to 255
• CV6 to128
• CV49 to17
• CV51 to 0
• CV52 to 0
• CV53 to 140
• CV54 to 40
• CV55 to 28
• CV56 to 255
• CV124 to 4

These are set by us as standard as part of our DCC fitting services on these models but can also be changed on most Digital controllers.

Cheers

Dave

 

Hi Dave, What decoder are these CV settings for?

 

Do you have settings for different makes of decoder i.e. zimo?

 

For example on Bachmann decoders CV53 - 55 are for motor compensation/BEMF whereas Zimo they are Speed steps for each of the 5 HLU speed limits.

[melmerby]

6 hours ago, jwd said:

 

Hi Dave, What decoder are these CV settings for?

 

Do you have settings for different makes of decoder i.e. zimo?

 

For example on Bachmann decoders CV53 - 55 are for motor compensation/BEMF whereas Zimo they are Speed steps for each of the 5 HLU speed limits.

Quite clearly not for a Lenz decoder as most are nothing to do with motor operation.

That's the problem with giving out decoder configurations.

 

On a Lenz decoder CV 49 is to switch off motor control (i.e. use motor output as function output)

CV51-53 are part of ABC

CV54 is for push pull (with ABC?)

CV 55 & CV56 are lighting

CV124 doesn't exist

 

However CV50 not mentioned is changeable for motor type.

[Blobrick]

Has anyone found a way to remove the chassis keeper plate from the 14/48/58 0-4-2T chassis without having to remove the whole chassis from the body?. The reason l ask is l m contemplating removing part of the gear train running towards the front drive wheel. This will leave the model as a single axle drive, in the hope it will improve the slow running of the model?

I am sure l ve heard of someone trying this approach before, which proved to be successful, but l ve been unable to find it in this thread, so it may have been elsewhere on the tinterweb.

 

Any thoughts chaps?

 

Bob C

[melmerby]

1 hour ago, Blobrick said:

Has anyone found a way to remove the chassis keeper plate from the 14/48/58 0-4-2T chassis without having to remove the whole chassis from the body?. The reason l ask is l m contemplating removing part of the gear train running towards the front drive wheel. This will leave the model as a single axle drive, in the hope it will improve the slow running of the model?

I am sure l ve heard of someone trying this approach before, which proved to be successful, but l ve been unable to find it in this thread, so it may have been elsewhere on the tinterweb.

 

Any thoughts chaps?

 

Bob C

If you do it, the coupling rods might be a problem. They have well oversize holes for the crankpins as they are purely cosmetic and not meant to couple the wheels as on the prototype.

IIRC someone might have mentioned that they were plastic. Or is that my imagination?

[Ben Alder]

1 hour ago, Blobrick said:

Has anyone found a way to remove the chassis keeper plate from the 14/48/58 0-4-2T chassis without having to remove the whole chassis from the body?. The reason l ask is l m contemplating removing part of the gear train running towards the front drive wheel. This will leave the model as a single axle drive, in the hope it will improve the slow running of the model?

I am sure l ve heard of someone trying this approach before, which proved to be successful, but l ve been unable to find it in this thread, so it may have been elsewhere on the tinterweb.

 

Any thoughts chaps?

 

Bob C

I did this mod with the 02, which was a DJ model and it has worked far better since. The rods on it are metal. Don't know if this was what you read and I have never looked at the 14xx.

[NHY 581]

9 hours ago, Blobrick said:

Has anyone found a way to remove the chassis keeper plate from the 14/48/58 0-4-2T chassis without having to remove the whole chassis from the body?. The reason l ask is l m contemplating removing part of the gear train running towards the front drive wheel. This will leave the model as a single axle drive, in the hope it will improve the slow running of the model?

I am sure l ve heard of someone trying this approach before, which proved to be successful, but l ve been unable to find it in this thread, so it may have been elsewhere on the tinterweb.

 

Any thoughts chaps?

 

Bob C

 

 

I could be wrong but have a look at Paul Marshall Potter's Albion Yard website. Pretty certain he had a dabble with one of these. 

 

I tried four if them to get one that ran properly and gave up. 

 

An excellent model let down by a very poorly thought out and engineered chassis. 

 

The alternative is to replace the entire chassis with a conventional etched replacement. Tim Maddocks has done this with his and they run like little watches. 

 

Rob. 

Edited March 8, 2022 by NHY 581

[woodenhead]

@NHY 581 It was also missing the ashpan - it has an excellent upper body, but what's inside and below it's waist let it down.

 

I was watching PMP's video last week on his experience with a 14xx and it's wonky wheelsets, I am wondering now if I missed something on mine as it seemed to work fine when I got it - but it's currently boxed up.  It does look good as a static model if you hide the ashpan

[boxbrownie]

3 hours ago, NHY 581 said:

 

 

I could be wrong but have a look at Paul Marshall Potter's Albion Yard website. Pretty certain he had a dabble with one of these. 

 

I tried four if them to get one that ran properly and gave up. 

 

An excellent model let down by a very poorly thought out and engineered chassis. 

 

The alternative is to replace the entire chassis with a conventional etched replacement. Tim Maddocks has done this with his and they run like little watches. 

 

Rob. 

I think I got dead lucky with mine, I bought/ordered it when it first popped up and it stayed in the storage far months, then I started reading all these running issues and thought “b00bies” here we go again I bought a dud.

But pleasingly it ran really well when I first tried it on DC to run it in a bit and then with a Zimo sound chip in it it turns out to be a superb little engine, runs very slowly (walking pace at least) without stutter or jerking at all.

 

So at least one was made properly 

[The Fatadder]

On 24/10/2018 at 13:06, Hattons Dave said:

 

Hi Tom,

 

The following CV changes will assist with the operation of the 14xx's coreless motor on DCC.

• CV5 to 255
• CV6 to128
• CV49 to17
• CV51 to 0
• CV52 to 0
• CV53 to 140
• CV54 to 40
• CV55 to 28
• CV56 to 255
• CV124 to 4

These are set by us as standard as part of our DCC fitting services on these models but can also be changed on most Digital controllers.

Cheers

Dave

 

 

I am interested if anyone has any other CV settings maps which they could share for the 14xx, particularly anyone using the Dapol decoder.  My model ran well under DC testing, but is a complete dog under DCC.  I have tried the above mapping but if anything it was running worse afterwards. 

[john dew]

Hi Rich

 

I had lots of problems with mine but they are now very reliable as a result of installing Zimo 617 + 3 x 480 u/F Tantalum SA (in the bunker using the speaker wires to connect)

 

The CV settings are : 2: 1  5: 120  6: 60  56: 22  (EMF)  57: 125 (layout voltage)

 

HTH

 

Best wishes

 

 

                                                 

 

[DCB]

The only real complaint I have about the Hattons 14XX is poor traction, it can't cope with my dips in the track lifting the middle wheels and slips even with one Auto Coach,  The real thing used to lift at least 5 Mk1s up the gradient from Winchcombe, they were limited to 150 tons there in BR Days.  Slow running is very good, much better than the real thing, and its nearly fast enough for racing Jubilees like the real thing did between Gloucester and Standish Junction. Its high time someone made a decent 00 14XX,  I tried the K's chassis ,Airfix, Dapol, Hornby and Comet, Comet was the worst, but all the others were rubbish as well, despite the Airfix having a great motor and fancy plunger pick ups,  My latest has an unknown brass chassis with a Triang XT 60 Might get finised one day but it pulls better than the Hattons.    What is really needed is to power the rear axle as well as the driving wheels, maybe 40:1 trailing wheel gearing and 50:1 main wheels. or a separate motor.  If you want slow running fit a flywheel.  The K's 14XX knocks spots of anything available RTR for smooth slow running , shame it looks rubbish and won't stay on the rails.  Too much attention is paid to very slow running, steam doesn't really do slow, brisk walk, 5mph is about the minimum you usually see except the last few feet buffering up to stock.

[The Fatadder]

5 hours ago, john dew said:

I had lots of problems with mine but they are now very reliable as a result of installing Zimo 617 + 3 x 480 u/F Tantalum SA (in the bunker using the speaker wires to connect)

 

The CV settings are : 2: 1  5: 120  6: 60  56: 22  (EMF)  57: 125 (layout voltage)

 

HTH

 

Best wishes

Thanks John, I will go out and give that a try at lunch and see how I get on.  Hopefully will get it going nicely.  I wish I had given it another test run on DC before installing, but as it ran very sweetly when I last tested it (probably over a year ago) I didnt bother digging out a DC controller...

[melmerby]

5 hours ago, DCB said:

 The K's 14XX knocks spots of anything available RTR for smooth slow running , shame it looks rubbish and won't stay on the rails.  Too much attention is paid to very slow running, steam doesn't really do slow, brisk walk, 5mph is about the minimum you usually see except the last few feet buffering up to stock.

My K's was the opposite, crap motor, crap chassis and a body where the parts didn't fit together properly

It proceeded down the track like a kangaroo at slow speed but went like a rocket on full speed, however it didn't derail.

Fitting pickups to the trailing wheels makes a positive difference to it's running at slow speeds.

In a comparison the Hattons one is smooth as a nut (but still not very good!)

The two Airfix ones I have are smooth but the motors are very noisy.

 

 

 

Hattons decending

 

 

 

Edited April 7, 2022 by melmerby

[Coach bogie]

I am with DCB. My K's are superb runners. two of mine here, there is a third for my Titfield - Mallingford train.

 

4800 picks up on all wheels but 4803 only the Drivers. Makes no difference, they  all  run without stalling, but then they have the weight to keep good grip/pickup.

 

As mentioned before, if it wasn't for K's I would not have a GWR fleet. I still like to pick them up cheap and get them running.

 

Mike Wiltshire

[drt7uk]

Hi folks, I've seen reference to these having running/reliability issues... I bought one recently on eBay that works great, but what do I need to do (or avoid) to keep it that way?? Thanks

Edited February 5, 2023 by drt7uk

[Paul_sterling]

9 minutes ago, drt7uk said:

Hi folks, I've seen reference to these having running/reliability issues... I bought one recently on eBay that works great, but what do I need to do (or avoid) to keep it that way?? Thanks

Nothing really, just look after it as you would any normal model. Mines the same. I kicked myself for not buying one first time around owing to the backlash on here about their running, but the one I eventually got is as sweet as a nut. Now Hattons ask more than the original new price for them I'll not be adding another, but yep lovely little engine. My son has the Bachmann Oliver and that's a nice runner too. 

 

Thanks. Paul. 

[drt7uk]

10 hours ago, Paul_sterling said:

Nothing really, just look after it as you would any normal model. Mines the same. I kicked myself for not buying one first time around owing to the backlash on here about their running, but the one I eventually got is as sweet as a nut. Now Hattons ask more than the original new price for them I'll not be adding another, but yep lovely little engine. My son has the Bachmann Oliver and that's a nice runner too. 

 

Thanks. Paul. 

 

That's reassuring, thanks Paul

[woodenhead]

11 hours ago, drt7uk said:

Hi folks, I've seen reference to these having running/reliability issues... I bought one recently on eBay that works great, but what do I need to do (or avoid) to keep it that way?? Thanks

Like you I was concerned and then I got one on Ebay (around the time Hattons were still selling them, but not in the livery I wanted) and I took a chance as the price was low.  Loco turned up ran fine with added bonus of a chip, it's been in a box though for 2 years so I hope it does still run when it resurfaces soonish.

[drt7uk]

12 hours ago, woodenhead said:

Like you I was concerned and then I got one on Ebay (around the time Hattons were still selling them, but not in the livery I wanted) and I took a chance as the price was low.  Loco turned up ran fine with added bonus of a chip, it's been in a box though for 2 years so I hope it does still run when it resurfaces soonish.

 

Thank you, yes it runs perfectly. I got mine off eBay too, can't remember what I paid but wasn't extortionate and well worth it. One of my favourite engines, probably because of Oliver and Titfield Thunderbolt, and got tired of waiting for Hornby to retool it. So far so good!