Heljan GWR 47xx Night Owl

[Helmdon]

On 20/07/2021 at 07:11, GWR-fan said:

A missed opportunity.  I wanted a couple of 47XX,  a Garratt and an O2,  but alas,  after my experience with two small Heljan class 1361 locomotives,  I came to the realisation that Heljan do not seem to be able to manufacture a user friendly,  reliable steam outline model.  My experience with their diesels and class 128 models are a very positive memory.

 

it's frustrating, but after cocking up a lot of the early batches of the L&B Manning Wardles (and rectifying issues on the later ones) they've nailed Lyn, so they do now manufacture *a* user friendly, reliable steam outline model.

 

although I've only had it a week.

[ikks]

On 20/07/2021 at 03:21, Pteremy said:

I wonder whether Heljan will ever revisit their 47xx? As a WR modeller I might have considered one - albeit on a rule 1 basis given the section of WR  I am interested in. But  I would not touch it with a barge pole given the design/QA issues that have been well documented in this thread. Perhaps it is destined to be a 'lost opportunity' - unless you happen to be one of the lucky few who got a good one.

Terrible shame.....not a western  fan but a lovely looking model.

 

Mike

[No Decorum]

On 19/07/2021 at 18:51, Pteremy said:

I wonder whether Heljan will ever revisit their 47xx? As a WR modeller I might have considered one - albeit on a rule 1 basis given the section of WR  I am interested in. But  I would not touch it with a barge pole given the design/QA issues that have been well documented in this thread. Perhaps it is destined to be a 'lost opportunity' - unless you happen to be one of the lucky few who got a good one.

I must be one of the lucky few. Mine is a magnificent beast and runs beautifully. I have minor gripes, the worst of which is the fall plate. It’s a nice little painted brass item which I cannot get to fit even after trimming and folding. It would be nice if all its bits stayed attached and if the paint finish had more of a sheen but overall, I’m very pleased with it.

 

For what it’s worth, I have two Gresley O2s. They were on the expensive side at the time of purchase and the black finish looks odd, as if it’s unpainted plastic. On the other hand they are powerful and smooth and I’m pleased with them too.

 

As regards the 1361s (and 1366s), I was in a dilemma. Rightly or wrongly, I judged Heljan at the time as prone to get things wrong. DJ, on the other hand, didn’t impress me either. In the end, I went with the devil I knew. One of my Heljans had to go back for replacement as it ran like a two legged dog but the new one was fine. The infamous Sam of the Carpet pointed to a lot of untrimmed flashing, which was fair comment, but I’m content with these too, which I am not with nearly all the DJ models I have.

 

Things are different now. Ben Jones is, shall we say, concentrating minds at Heljan. Things can go wrong even for the best of manufacturers but I look forward to Heljan’s new O2s with confidence and increased eagerness after learning that the tooling will be upgraded.

[John Tomlinson]

On 20/07/2021 at 13:44, Ribird said:

Just making sure I'm understanding, for the flywheels and worm, not just front to back position, but the position of the start of the worm, correct? And you never know, might just be something not jiving inside, and turns out to be an easy fix (unlikely)

Yes, if you replace the motor and do it yourself, you need to measure the position of flywheel and worm on the motor axle, so that they go back in exactly the same place.

 

As the new motor should be identical it shouldn't matter where you measure from, for safety I would take from the motor body itself going out either end.

 

John.

Edited July 22, 2021 by John Tomlinson
"shouldn't matter" rather than "shouldn't measure"

[MG 7305]

On 22/07/2021 at 08:58, No Decorum said:

As regards the 1361s (and 1366s)

I don't know if you are using DCC or not.  However I do and spent quite a few hours adjusting the 2 keeper plates on each model to make them run freely.  Then I added very large stay alives in the cabs.   The results are excellent albeit very expensive for small 0-60 tanks.  They are unstoppable and very smooth, but don't look too carefully into the cab!

[No Decorum]

11 hours ago, MG 7305 said:

I don't know if you are using DCC or not.  However I do and spent quite a few hours adjusting the 2 keeper plates on each model to make them run freely.  Then I added very large stay alives in the cabs.   The results are excellent albeit very expensive for small 0-60 tanks.  They are unstoppable and very smooth, but don't look too carefully into the cab!

I do use DCC and sound where space in a model permits. However, I’m sure more than half of my locos are still DC, including my 1361 & 1366. I still have plenty of easy conversions to carry out before I even think of tackling these. A hangover of DC enables me to select a part of the layout to run DC and another part on DCC at the same time. I concentrate hard when I do that!

[BSG75]

Hi, does anyone have any experience of the repaired 47xx models that Olivias trains are selling? Looking for another option after my new 47xx arrived as a kit of parts, not helped I suspect by the vendor merely wrapping a piece of card around it.

[lofty1966]

On 17/08/2021 at 13:16, BSG75 said:

Hi, does anyone have any experience of the repaired 47xx models that Olivias trains are selling? Looking for another option after my new 47xx arrived as a kit of parts, not helped I suspect by the vendor merely wrapping a piece of card around it.

Pretty much all the 47xx models arrived as kits 

[LeytonGWR]

Hi. I hoping someone can help. I've just purchased a 47xx second hand, and whilst it runs very well (so far), a piece has come loose in transit (see attached). Can anyone advise me where it should be reattached please? Thanks in advance

[lofty1966]

Behind the rear steps on the loco.

[LeytonGWR]

On 01/04/2023 at 03:20, lofty1966 said:

Behind the rear steps on the loco.

Thanks! Much appreciated