Dettingen GCR might have been layout

[richard i]

I don’t normally do a look what I got....I promise.

however this I a plug for scaleforum if you can make it. The prices on their stand are designed to ensure everything goes. 

I have been after this for a while and for this price it is almost a steel. 

i will definitely enjoy building it. Go to the show if you can. 

Richard.

[timbowilts]

Richard, if you want it I have this going for free. PM me if you want it.

Tim T

All packed up ready to move somewhere, anywhere!

[richard i]

On 01/10/2019 at 03:40, timbowilts said:

Richard, if you want it I have this going for free. PM me if you want it.

Tim T

All packed up ready to move somewhere, anywhere!

Parcel arrived today. Thank you for such generosity. It is things like this which make me think that this hobby is made up of some of the best people in society. 

Richard

[richard i]

Could not resist getting the wagon built. Should only take a couple of days.

it will look great. Once transfers fitted. I might leave the body in it’s injection moulded colour. Then weather it down.

Richard

[richard i]

It has got this far.

a cracking kit. 

Richard

[Andy Hayter]

A pity they are no longer available.  I recently built the LYR "Fruit" open and it too was a delight to build.

[timbowilts]

13 hours ago, Andy Hayter said:

A pity they are no longer available.  I recently built the LYR "Fruit" open and it too was a delight to build.

That can be said about several ranges that no longer exist.

Tim T

All packed up ready to move to Felinfoel

[richard i]

Good luck on the move. 

Have to agree on the lost ranges. You don’t miss them until they are gone. 

Richard

[richard i]

The cutting out has finally finished. Thank heavens I only wanted 4. 

There are parts to possibly make the basis of a couple of others.... or to use as spares when I mess up. 

The production batch build has begun. This is more fun than the cutting out. 

Richard

[richard i]

The train takes shape.

 

 

in the end it won’t be white, but at the moment it is the ghost train.

richard

[richard i]

When building four a little added to each takes a time. Battery boxes fitted. 

 

i also felt it would be easier to divide out the cut pieces. 

Richard

[richard i]

I have to admit I am a little stumped. 

I have worked out what slots in where for all things except the slots left open 

before some wise crack tells me the round ones are for the bogies, I have got that, what about the two between the battery boxes? 

 

Or are they for fixtures inside?

ideas welcome. 

Richard

[ChrisN]

Have you seen Larry Coachman's thread?  They appear to be for a cross beam to attach the Queen (?) posts to.

[richard i]

Thanks I pressed the link and found I followed it many years ago. Now to see if a piece jumps out as serving that function, or make my own. Of all the pieces to make it will be the least difficult. It does show that I need a dynamo too. I shall have to search the spares box for some. 

Thanks for the link. 

Richard 

[richard i]

Have made up the sub roof for two of the coaches. Alas I only made two sets of them. I will have to lean on someone to either make another couple or hope to pick up a correct profile roof at an up coming show. 

Time at work is tight at the moment so it looks like plan b might have to be the option. Any idea which shape best fits? I am all ears. 

As you can see the box is slowly emptying. Mostly the seats and bogies left

richard.

 

[richard i]

Turns out I have decided to scratchbuild two sets. If only so I only have one system to think about and so all the roof lines look the same. 

It looks like it will work.

 

Richard

 

[richard i]

Working on the seats. 

I think I have only made half the number I will need. It looks like I worked on one per side of coach rather than two. Once more showing I can’t count like I should be able to.

scratch building these is going to be more complicated than the roof ribs...especially the sides of the seats. They were hard enough to cut out when I had the etched lines to work to.

richard. 

[James Harrison]

It will be worth the efford Richard.  They'll be quite an imposing and impressive rake when finished.  

[richard i]

14 minutes ago, James Harrison said:

It will be worth the efford Richard.  They'll be quite an imposing and impressive rake when finished.  

Thanks. I hope so. Though not being built at quite the rate that you manage. 

Richard. 

[richard i]

Please be seated.

 

roof sub frames now fitted. The open ones are a bit flimsy so I will fit an extra strip under the longitudinal beams. 

Worth the effort cutting out all the seats, I think. Might change my mind when all the glazing goes in. 

Will not be running at club on Monday though as some hoped. 

Richard

[jimwal]

Those carriages will look very good and complete time you come to running them.

 

You are permitted a run without glazing if you wish to show off the seats and tables!

 

Jim

[richard i]

Roof experiments. Tried to do the plastic sheet hot water trick. 

First time nothing . Water must have been too cold.

next poured just off boiling water and got these wrinkles. Melting as too hot or shrinking at different times?

 

will try holding in the steam as the next experiment. Who has had success at forming plastic? Advice welcome. 

Thanks

richard. 

[gr.king]

I've only had success forming plastic roof profiles with hot water by firstly fastening the plastic sheet in place tightly over a continuous wooden former of the desired profile, in section a sort of inverted U shape with the correct curvature. I found I had to leave a considerable amount of waste at each edge, fastened down firmly and evenly throughout its length to the flat sides of the U. I screwed strips of wood in place on the sides to achieve that. I also had to make the roof about an inch longer than need at each end, because the very ends did not form to the true curve and had to be cut off. I know of no reason why water actually on the boil, in a large pan, cannot be used, taking care to avoid scalding yourself of course, so long as the plastic isn't left in it for too long. You can cool it rapidly afterwards in cold water, release it and check the profile. If it hasn't quite submitted to required degree of curvature the fasten it back on the former and give it another dunk in the boiling water!

 

Forming complete tubes for boiler barrels I always trap the plastic tightly between metal tubes of slightly different diameters, before the boiling dip.. That works very well. You can't do the same sort of think for a coach roof unless you can carve / sand matching inner and outer profile formers - not very practical I think.

 

Maybe Geoff Kent's method for cold-forming of profiles in plastic should be tried instead if you don't fancy creating a former? It is probably described somewhere in internet-land. It can be slow and tedious but controlled smooth curves can be formed, with care and patience. It worked for two "lower half roofs" that I wanted for a GNR / ECJS profile of clerestory roof.

 

 

[richard i]

2 hours ago, gr.king said:

I've only had success forming plastic roof profiles with hot water by firstly fastening the plastic sheet in place tightly over a continuous wooden former of the desired profile, in section a sort of inverted U shape with the correct curvature. I found I had to leave a considerable amount of waste at each edge, fastened down firmly and evenly throughout its length to the flat sides of the U. I screwed strips of wood in place on the sides to achieve that. I also had to make the roof about an inch longer than need at each end, because the very ends did not form to the true curve and had to be cut off. I know of no reason why water actually on the boil, in a large pan, cannot be used, taking care to avoid scalding yourself of course, so long as the plastic isn't left in it for too long. You can cool it rapidly afterwards in cold water, release it and check the profile. If it hasn't quite submitted to required degree of curvature the fasten it back on the former and give it another dunk in the boiling water!

 

Forming complete tubes for boiler barrels I always trap the plastic tightly between metal tubes of slightly different diameters, before the boiling dip.. That works very well. You can't do the same sort of think for a coach roof unless you can carve / sand matching inner and outer profile formers - not very practical I think.

 

Maybe Geoff Kent's method for cold-forming of profiles in plastic should be tried instead if you don't fancy creating a former? It is probably described somewhere in internet-land. It can be slow and tedious but controlled smooth curves can be formed, with care and patience. It worked for two "lower half roofs" that I wanted for a GNR / ECJS profile of clerestory roof.

 

 

Thanks.

the second attempt was slightly more successful. Not consistently flat enough though. I will think about the wood former, but will look at the other possible ways to form one. Planks and filler maybe. Perhaps the Barnum profile is similar enough to other roof shapes to buy an off the shelf perhaps less or mark 1. 

I will explore at Warley.

richard

[Clive Mortimore]

2 hours ago, richard i said:

Thanks.

the second attempt was slightly more successful. Not consistently flat enough though. I will think about the wood former, but will look at the other possible ways to form one. Planks and filler maybe. Perhaps the Barnum profile is similar enough to other roof shapes to buy an off the shelf perhaps less or mark 1. 

I will explore at Warley.

richard

Hi Richard

 

Have you considered laminated plastic card roofs? I use 5mm strips for the lower sections. As my woodworking skills are carp trying to make a former would be a nightmare. When making a roof like an LNER one where there are compound curves it is easier. 

Oh to be at the club tomorrow night to show you.

Just file to shape.