Dettingen GCR might have been layout

[richard i]

5 hours ago, Clive Mortimore said:

Hi Richard

 

Have you considered laminated plastic card roofs? I use 5mm strips for the lower sections. As my woodworking skills are carp trying to make a former would be a nightmare. When making a roof like an LNER one where there are compound curves it is easier. 

Oh to be at the club tomorrow night to show you.

Just file to shape.

Had considered it but have over hanging roof at the endsit would need a top sheet to cover that .

richard

 

 

[Clive Mortimore]

Quote

Had considered it but have over hanging roof at the endsit would need a top sheet to cover that .

richard

Hi Richard

 

It is easier to curve a strip of microstrip and add that to the end.

 

 

See if I was there on a Monday you could examine and fondle my efforts. 

[richard i]

3 minutes ago, Clive Mortimore said:

Hi Richard

 

It is easier to curve a strip of microstrip and add that to the end.

 

 

See if I was there on a Monday you could examine and fondle my efforts. 

Food for thought. Though your choice of words this early in the morning is leaving me a little Ill.

more importantly why are you up so early you are retired so should be in bed until a reasonable hour. 

Richard

 

[Clive Mortimore]

3 minutes ago, richard i said:

Food for thought. Though your choice of words this early in the morning is leaving me a little Ill.

more importantly why are you up so early you are retired so should be in bed until a reasonable hour. 

Richard

 

Heading off to Bedford for a day of sorting out Mum's affairs.

[Andy Hayter]

And of course if you are building a rake (and you are Richard), having built one roof, you can make a rubber mould and cast the rest in polyurethane resin.

[gr.king]

My two Barnums have extruded aluminium roofs, which have so far passed inspection by those who have seen them, but I can't tell you which profile they are as they were with the part-built coaches when I acquired them, prior to taking them apart and building them rather more neatly (and strongly) than the original builder had.

[richard i]

8 hours ago, Andy Hayter said:

And of course if you are building a rake (and you are Richard), having built one roof, you can make a rubber mould and cast the rest in polyurethane resin.

True, but then might have to cut back the inside compartment dividers. It could lose the openness, or that might be a false concern. I will look to build the first and see how  difficult it is and will progress from there.

richard

[richard i]

8 hours ago, gr.king said:

My two Barnums have extruded aluminium roofs, which have so far passed inspection by those who have seen them, but I can't tell you which profile they are as they were with the part-built coaches when I acquired them, prior to taking them apart and building them rather more neatly (and strongly) than the original builder had.

If only we knew. It does give hope for finding the right shape at Warley. 

A solution will be found/ made. 

Richard 

[ChrisN]

I have heat formed roofs from plasticard, but not longer than six wheelers, so a small coffee jar. Millicano tin or similar is what I have used.  To attach them I have used rugby boot, (mountain boot(, laces, which are fairly wide.  I cut the roof out to the size I want , place it on the jar under a rectangle of cardboard that is much bigger than the roof, then tie them around the jar.  It needs to be tied tightly evenly otherwise the roof becomes undulated, which is why I use the cardboard as this helps equalise the pressure from the lace.  . You also have to be fairly careful that it is in exactly the right orientation.  I then pour boiling water in the jar and leave to cool.  The cardboard forms better than the plasticard which tends to form a larger radius than the jar.

 

It would probably work for longer roofs with straight sided bottles and using a funnel to fill it.  (Triangular whiskey jars are do not work.)

 

If they are to be permanently fixed it should not be a problem.  I make formed ends for mine so that they push fit to the ends, and for a longer ones I might add formers in the middle.

 

Andy G wraps his coach roofs around pipes and puts them in the low heat oven in his Aga.  He fixes his roofs to the pipe using masking tape.  This does not work with my method, the tape just falls off.  If you have an Aga I will find a link to his thread for you.

 

 

[James Harrison]

I used some elliptical extruded aluminium on mine; I'm not entirely sure they're quite right but as they're an homogenous rake if one is wrong they're all wrong and it doesn't stand out!  LNER roof profile from MJT/ Dart Castings. 

[richard i]

10 hours ago, ChrisN said:

I have heat formed roofs from plasticard, but not longer than six wheelers, so a small coffee jar. Millicano tin or similar is what I have used.  To attach them I have used rugby boot, (mountain boot(, laces, which are fairly wide.  I cut the roof out to the size I want , place it on the jar under a rectangle of cardboard that is much bigger than the roof, then tie them around the jar.  It needs to be tied tightly evenly otherwise the roof becomes undulated, which is why I use the cardboard as this helps equalise the pressure from the lace.  . You also have to be fairly careful that it is in exactly the right orientation.  I then pour boiling water in the jar and leave to cool.  The cardboard forms better than the plasticard which tends to form a larger radius than the jar.

 

It would probably work for longer roofs with straight sided bottles and using a funnel to fill it.  (Triangular whiskey jars are do not work.)

 

If they are to be permanently fixed it should not be a problem.  I make formed ends for mine so that they push fit to the ends, and for a longer ones I might add formers in the middle.

 

Andy G wraps his coach roofs around pipes and puts them in the low heat oven in his Aga.  He fixes his roofs to the pipe using masking tape.  This does not work with my method, the tape just falls off.  If you have an Aga I will find a link to his thread for you.

 

 

Great. Now to find an empty wine bottle. 

Alas no aga. Not rich enough for one of those. 

Richard

[gr.king]

13 hours ago, richard i said:

If only we knew. It does give hope for finding the right shape at Warley. 

A solution will be found/ made. 

Richard 

 

Come and say hello on stand A85....

[richard i]

12 hours ago, gr.king said:

 

Come and say hello on stand A85....

Definitely on Saturday. As long as I can fight  my way through the crowds. 

Richard. 

[gr.king]

If I have room I'll pack one of my Barnums and a GC suburban coach with one of my few reasonably successful heat-formed roofs.

[richard i]

8 hours ago, gr.king said:

If I have room I'll pack one of my Barnums and a GC suburban coach with one of my few reasonably successful heat-formed roofs.

Thanks, I will try to remember to bring one of mine along for you to laugh at. 

Richard

[richard i]

End detail on the first one. 

Pull rods to apply the brakes and some other pipes. I have little idea what most do, but I work on the principle that I can see it so it goes on .  Still need grab handles on the corridor connectors 

richard

[Caley Jim]

19 hours ago, richard i said:

Pull rods to apply the brakes and some other pipes. I have little idea what most do, but I work on the principle that I can see it so it goes on .  

The rods are part of the alarm gear.  When the communication cord is pulled the transverse rod rotates so that the flat 'paddles' on the ends are vertical so indicating in which coach the cord was pulled.  At the same time a crank in the little box opens a valve in the brake pipe, via the vertical rod, to apply the brakes.

 

The two fitments on either side of the corridor connection are the jumper cables for connecting the coaches electrically.

 

HTH

 

Jim

[richard i]

46 minutes ago, Caley Jim said:

The rods are part of the alarm gear.  When the communication cord is pulled the transverse rod rotates so that the flat 'paddles' on the ends are vertical so indicating in which coach the cord was pulled.  At the same time a crank in the little box opens a valve in the brake pipe, via the vertical rod, to apply the brakes.

 

The two fitments on either side of the corridor connection are the jumper cables for connecting the coaches electrically.

 

HTH

 

Jim

As ever wisdom found on rmweb. 

Thanks

richard. 

[richard i]

Little to show as have been working on the ends. This is a brake end so ladders and windows. Others have the emergency brake gear. Photos of those in better light. 

 

Jobs being ing ticked off. 

Thought it had been a while since an update. Maybe more during the festive season. 

Richard 

[richard i]

I have got about as far as roof furniture. So different drawings show some or no detail. However photos ( mostly from low angles) shed little light on the matter.

does anyone know definitively in gcr days what Barnum had. It looks like nothing, or just the water filler caps, or the caps plus a short hand rail, or a vent on the roof line too. 

Definitely had two hand rails at the brake end, I have got that far, but looks like there is a bump on the roof centre line there too.

all thoughts welcome.

thanks

richard 

[gr.king]

If I remember correctly drawings indicate WC one side of the corridor, small room with hand basin on other side. I think I went, rightly or wrongly, for a grab rail on the roof above each obscured window, torpedo vent above the WC, tank filler cap above the washroom.

[richard i]

3 hours ago, gr.king said:

If I remember correctly drawings indicate WC one side of the corridor, small room with hand basin on other side. I think I went, rightly or wrongly, for a grab rail on the roof above each obscured window, torpedo vent above the WC, tank filler cap above the washroom.

Interesting, I was leaning towards the filler cap above the we because that would have had more water usage, but thinking about it probably one tank fed both systems. Need a vent for the smell of wc. 

I will keep looking. 

Many thanks

richard. 

[richard i]

Look closely, ( and you will need to as it is detailing bits fitted.) the ends on their way to completion. Three ends done, 5 to go. Just lamp irons to fit. The eagle eyed will notice one is a spike. The tail lamp will fit on there after painting. 

Also the support struts fitted down the sides. All 32 of them. 

Really getting to the tail tail end of the build, just dynamos to fit to the chassis and then rooves and bogies to complete.

i will fit goalposts and hooks as the couplings, but can I solder with it fitted to the plastic bodies? I doubt it so might need plan B approach. 

Richard

 

[gr.king]

You could consider tinning the areas of the metal coupling parts that you want to join before they go on the model, so that there's the maximum chance of immediate formation of a joint if you then nip in and out quickly with an iron once the parts are on the model. So long as there's a long enough piece of metal between your planned solder joint (hot) and the point of attachment to the plastic (to be kept cool), you should get away with it. Metal inserted into a nice tight hole in the plastic rather than just glued on to the surface would be my preference, but if the mounting face has to be a flat one then glue plus pins, or better still glue plus ultra-miniature screws might be worth thinking about.

[richard i]

1 hour ago, gr.king said:

You could consider tinning the areas of the metal coupling parts that you want to join before they go on the model, so that there's the maximum chance of immediate formation of a joint if you then nip in and out quickly with an iron once the parts are on the model. So long as there's a long enough piece of metal between your planned solder joint (hot) and the point of attachment to the plastic (to be kept cool), you should get away with it. Metal inserted into a nice tight hole in the plastic rather than just glued on to the surface would be my preference, but if the mounting face has to be a flat one then glue plus pins, or better still glue plus ultra-miniature screws might be worth thinking about.

I was imagining using pcb strip and hope the “thick” non metal base would soak up the heat before hitting the plastic. If the solder was to be the solution. 

Richard