Dettingen GCR might have been layout

[richard i]

First one with all the brass done.

plastic for the corridor connector and the water tank filler then ready for painting. 
richard

[richard i]

The water filler caps added. The roof detail “completed “. I am sure something is missing

a cruel close up. I know barely visible at the end in the middle of the carriage. They even have a little handle, even less visible.

now for the corridor connectors.

richard

[richard i]

I needed 4 end plates and only had two. Simple make another couple. They are not as good but will be on the ends butting up on the locos tender so will be less visible. 

also with the faked up bellows retracted. The ones between coaches will have theirs extended to meet and flex. 
Richard

[Manxman1831]

Bit of a daft question regarding your Worsley Works Parker coaches - did you buy the ones that the sides are split down the length?  If so, have you managed to roll in any sort of tumblehome?

 

I'm asking as I have the beginnings of the dining train as featured on Steve Banks pages, and am trying to work out how much the lower body curvature is going to be visible...

[richard i]

They are the split side ones. The curve is there. I make sure the match the profile of the ends it makes soldering them up easier as they sit next to each other. Actually I solder the top corner first and the put pressure on the side to bring it totally in line and solder the bottom corner. So there is a curve all along the side but it is probably more at the end than in the middle. However, it is very hard to tell that is the case. 
it would be great to see your progress on your carriages as it is always great to see other gcr modeling.

richard 

[richard i]

The four outer ends on.

and a close up

to get the folds it is 0.25 thick for the indents and 0.5 thick for the proud sections built up in to 7 layers. 

These are built out of out of plasticard so that is: brass, white metal, steel, wood, plastic and paper which these so far have in their production.

add filler as the next task to hide poor build quality moments and then ready for the paint shops. Will need warmer weather for that I think. 
richard  

[richard i]

Aaaaaaaah.

why would the paint react and not take in spots in certain places, mainly on the roof ? I washed off the flux by scrubbing in water and washing up liquid. I then rinsed in water and allowed to dry. I took over the kids shed, turned the heater on and banned them from coming in until the spray painting is finished. The dryer is also in there so there is laundry pressure to get it done pronto so this is does not need a spanner thrown into the works
help. 
richard 

[Manxman1831]

It might be a combination of issues - residue left behind by air-drying, forcing the drying process with the heater or worst case maybe grease spots left by handling?

[Regularity]

2 hours ago, richard i said:

washing up liquid

Probably that: they include things like lanolin to make it nicer on your hands.

An additional clean with thinners - cellulose if you can get it and there are no plastics, plus you work outdoors - and a stiff brush is a good idea.

[richard i]

1 hour ago, Manxman1831 said:

It might be a combination of issues - residue left behind by air-drying, forcing the drying process with the heater or worst case maybe grease spots left by handling?

 

57 minutes ago, Regularity said:

Probably that: they include things like lanolin to make it nicer on your hands.

An additional clean with thinners - cellulose if you can get it and there are no plastics, plus you work outdoors - and a stiff brush is a good idea.

Sage advice, thank you. Though the heater was just to keep the room at a normal temperature. It was certainly not a sauna in the shed. Would a wipe with alcohol work? 
richard 

[Clive Mortimore]

Have you considered injecting them with bleach?   

 

 

[Satan's Goldfish]

3 minutes ago, Clive Mortimore said:

Have you considered injecting them with bleach?   

 

 

 

I think i'm starting to understand the lack of paint on your coaches Clive  

[richard i]

8 hours ago, Clive Mortimore said:

Have you considered injecting them with bleach?   

 

 

Helpful as always. Perhaps some strong uv light from the inside.

8 hours ago, Satan's Goldfish said:

 

I think i'm starting to understand the lack of paint on your coaches Clive  

It is things like this that help it all make sense.

richard 

[gr.king]

I'm told that washing up liquids can contain something to help to make the plates dry shiny, and even that can impair paint adhesion. I'd be more inclined to suspect wax / oil / grease spots though, or just a localised lack of abrasion creating either some funny electrostatic effect or a strange surface-tension disturbance in the wet paint layer - if it went on as a wet coat.

[richard i]

The brown is on.

it turns out 7 carriages is shade too many for one can of spray paint. Ahhhhh. How to get another can during lock down. Nearest one I know 17 miles away on click and collect. That’s not local. Why did I only buy one can? I have pots of paint so might look to brush pain the parts which look thin.

I also hear you ask, why not tape the roof, it was white to start with. True but I have not decided on white or grey roofs. And it is easier to tape the body rather than the roof, and the paint needs a couple of days to harden before taping or it will lift. Remember the shed is only mine for a couple of days of occupation. It is also due to rain/ snow tonight so the air would get too damp to paint. 
richard 

[richard i]

The two different liveries. 

french grey and brown and cream and brown. First coat/ or part applied. 
french grey is just masking off and cover. 
cream and brown, I have been advised to both, cream, mask and then brown, or brown and infill the cream. I am trying option 2 which so far looks to have potential.

the gold line surrounding the cream will be harder. 
what colour do people use to represent gold lining? 
any advice gratefully received, thanks for looking,

richard 

[Compound2632]

16 minutes ago, richard i said:

The two different liveries. 
what colour do people use to represent gold lining? 
any advice gratefully received, thanks for looking,

 

 

I have the following note, cut from one of Larry Goddard's posts when he was on here as Coachman:

 

"Railways were fond of using the word gold when in fact it was a paint mixed to resemble gold. A bright colour it wasn't.
On the modelling front, you could use Humbrol Cream No.7 and Humbrol yellow No.69 mixed 50/50. If you are using a draughtsmans ruling pen, let the new tins of paint settle before pouring off the oil into a spare container. Then stir the 'putty' that is left and pour in small amounts of the oil until the paint flows out of your bow pen and stays put without spreading out of control. Then mix the two colours together. Finally add a very small touch of black to distress the colour."

 

[richard i]

Thanks. That intrigues me as to what colour that forms. Hobby craft near me have/ had humbrol paint but had a sign up before lockdown saying they were discontinuing selling them, some had run out. I must look at a humbrol chart to see which these two are. 
There was a little part of me which wanted there to be a pen I could use of the right sort of colour,( yellowish), and guaranteeing the width of the lines. I do have a bow pen but have never been successful i drawing one line on a flat surface, never mind on an edge round a corner. 
richard 

[Compound2632]

1 minute ago, richard i said:

Hobby craft near me have/ had humbrol paint but had a sign up before lockdown saying they were discontinuing selling them, some had run out.

 

Aaaaagrh!

 

1 minute ago, richard i said:

There was a little part of me which wanted there to be a pen I could use of the right sort of colour,( yellowish), and guaranteeing the width of the lines. 

 

Have you followed the various discussions on Posca paint pens and similar? See for example here and adjacent posts:

I have experimented with the Posca 0.7 mm yellow or straw pens, with over-lining in black; I felt I was getting close but as I was using Rotring black ink with a 0.35 Rotring nib for the black, I hadn't got as far as overcoming the tendency of the nib to drag the yellow paint. An extra coat of varnish might be the answer. I've never quite dared put enamel paint in the Rotring pen.

[richard i]

Thank you

i had seen those discussions, it was an Avenue I had thought about. My reading of the discussion was that it was not totally successful. At the rate I am able to paint the cream it will be some weeks before I have to settle on the solution. I feel some experiments coming on. 
richard 

[richard i]

Humbrol 7 and humbrol 69 are light buff and bright yellow.

I will see what I have in the colour department and see if I can mix something up. I can see how the buff just gives the bright yellow a golden hue.

richard 

[Paul Cram]

Ian Rathbone uses Precision M & GN Gorse yellow for gpld lining

[richard i]

3 minutes ago, Paul Cram said:

Ian Rathbone uses Precision M & GN Gorse yellow for gpld lining

Thanks, alas, the same issue with getting hold of a tin during lockdown. It might have to wait until after so I can get the correct paints.

richard 

[James Harrison]

I've had good results lining carriages with one of these:

 

http://www.mylocosound.co.uk/?page_id=12

 

The raised beading on a panelled carriage side makes for a fairly easy guide to get a ruler on to guide it.  

[Manxman1831]

Hi Richard,  thought you might find my first attempt at putting together the Andy Gibbs Parker Van First a bit of a laugh.  It was bought from EBay, and I'd checked it, thinking it was more complete than it actually is.... D'OH!  Side and bow-end are glued together, but just sat on the flooring/underframe.  Any further updates might just be in their own thread, rather than gumming up your pages.