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Dettingen GCR might have been layout


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This won as a really quick project. 
2E9BA85A-31E1-4144-9683-032A74BB6D31.jpeg.4c37321e45d88ff4a7f639417c085ab6.jpeg

Put transfers on a Southern Pacific AC12 

it is N scale 

the transfers are tiny, however, the most difficult task is reading the white transfers on the sky blue background.

how do people read these to make sure that the right one is being cut out?

richard

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  • 3 weeks later...
22 hours ago, James Harrison said:

Is that the Bachmann 2-4-2 tank?  I've got a pair of those myself waiting for that operation too.

Yes it is. I am going to see how much scratch building is going to be needed. Perhaps not much will be left of the original. We shall see. It should be fun trying though.

richard 

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Cab rear made

C82E61BA-3099-4586-8936-05FEB4300EB7.jpeg.019a563255e6270066ac663abd4e3c13.jpeg

N5 sides cleaned up and side tank fronts fitted. Small Hand rails fitted.

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steps next, then to solder all the brass together before nailing it on to the plastic body.

that order is important otherwise we end up with a puddle of black plastic. 
must make sure all soldering is done before marrying it all up together.

richard 

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Much trial and error. 
trying to work from drawings and then apply to a model being converted.

finally got to this.

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the bunker is too wide by 1 mm which throws the back of the cab out by the same amount. So have added side pieces to the correct width one made. This means the cab sides angle out by half a mm each side from front to back. This looks like it can be hidden by the overhang of the roof. Otherwise a new roof will need to be made.

I have painted the cab floor with humbrol 110 and washes to get the wood effect.

 

etched overlays applied with three types of glue. Gorilla, super and two part epoxy in different parts to see which holds up the best. Like I said, trail and error. When I build the next I will have found every pitfall. 
richard 

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1 hour ago, James Harrison said:

It never struck me that the side tanks/ cab/ bunker of the N5 are identical to those on the F1/ F2. That changes my plans a little.

If you want an early short bunker version you could get away without adjusting the running plate length. That will be what I might try for my other one. Then the conversion may be much simpler. I must look into it when I have finished all the modifications on this one. 
not me who thought of the n5 connection, that was green Howard’s inspired connection.
richard

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Bunker rails made

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Not that the originals, ( in front) were bad, far from it, they were excellent. However they were an LNER fitting and so had to be replaced by the coal rails. 
they are just placed for the photo. I will need to drill holes to seat them properly.

richard 

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Really starting to come together.

E9F3143E-7547-40A5-BE8C-352EDA040069.jpeg.90945a02fa64f565560fcf9c8a5fbe07.jpeg

hand rail, safety valves and bunker rails fitted. 
evert time I look and say, “ I am going to need X” I look in the little bag of parts and find it had kindly been left in there when the project was handed over to me. 
i know for the next stage I will need to build bits: hand brake ( one or two?) fireirons holders x2, a screw reverser and water tank filer lids (oval) - any one got ideas on how to make a good oval 6mm by 3mm by 1mm, I am all ears. 
how about how to make the blisters on the top edge of the firebox, I need 4 two per side - ideas?
richard 

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Here's a picture of the items (plastic tube about 8mm dia, a round ended drill shank and then the rounded end of some slimmer plastic rod) that I used to create several impressions (as nearly equal as possible) in plasticine that I could then use as a once-only mould in which to cast enough small resin blisters for the shoulders of a 4mm D7 firebox. After pouring the few drops of resin into the mould, the 8mm plastic tube protected by a layer of clear tape was used as the mould top to create the curved backs to the blisters.

DSCN0490.JPG.189d567dd13a4a20e131ff001e54d982.JPG

 

As for the oval fillers, I'd cut rectangles, then trim off the corners, then patiently file to the truest ovals I could manage. Care, patience and self-critical scrutiny of results pays dividends.

Edited by gr.king
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1 hour ago, gr.king said:

Here's a picture of the items (plastic tube about 8mm dia, a round ended drill shank and then the rounded end of some slimmer plastic rod) that I used to create several impressions (as nearly equal as possible) in plasticine that I could then use as a once-only mould in which to cast enough small resin blisters for the shoulders of a 4mm D7 firebox. After pouring the few drops of resin into the mould, the 8mm plastic tube protected by a layer of clear tap was used as the mould top to create the curved backs to the blisters.

DSCN0490.JPG.189d567dd13a4a20e131ff001e54d982.JPG

 

As for the oval fillers, I'd cut rectangles, then trim of the corners, then patiently file to the truest ovals I could manage. Care, patience and self-critical scrutiny of results pays dividends.

Thanks this gives much food for thought. I might go the other way and press a mounding onto another firebox then cast off that. Let’s see how that goes. 
I have been watching your D7 build with interest. If you ever do castings off it there would certainly be one interested person here.

Richard 

Edited by richard i
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The little pieces made.

6CB38271-A395-4790-881A-2D0F0359AA71.jpeg.81b20e7361a00af97cbc09e41f918dae.jpeg

hand brake, fire iron supports, lamp brackets, and screw reverser. That has the tread wound in and needs its body made. It won’t be 100% accurate but it will be tucked inside the cab. 
I might fit some cab doors, then it feels like the chassis needs looking at. I might just use the one from my own L&Y tank and then play around with this one when I look to convert that one. The motor does not fit easily into this one and it is too far down the track for serious butchery. 
richard  

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Richard,

 

Here's a short video of this afternoons session. Clearly I need more practise so please bring everything along again next week. Also missing the view of the other side of the carriages - must have had the video in the 'off'/stop' position.

Cheers

Keith

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21 minutes ago, Keith Turbutt said:

Hi Richard,

 

Here's a short video of this afternoons session. Clearly I need more practise so please bring everything along again next week. Also missing the view of the other side of the carriages - must have had the video in the 'off'/stop' position.

Cheers

Keith

Hi Keith

 

Is that the club's test track your layout? :scratchhead:

 

Cor you have been busy.

Edited by Clive Mortimore
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Good morning Clive.

No, not a layout ... yet. Still just two tracks around the garage enabling decent length trains to be run. I had to lift some track and all points/turnouts to fit in the Backmann Scenecraft GC station. In fact only one track completed at the moment so really work in progress. But it was great to see Richard's train going round and through the station. It gave him the opportunity to test the running of his coaches which he can't do at home and do a bit of tweeking.

 

Watch this space!

Cheers

Keith

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A bit of tweeking! Lots of it.

kit built things need lots of final fettling to get them to run smoothly. I am so grateful to have access to the layout in Keith’s garage. He has seen the light and realized that the GC allows you to run so much variety of stock legitimately. It also has simple station layouts to watch the trains go by thought a little scenery. 
one carriage did not make the cut. I have played around with the bogie so hopefully it can make its cinamagraphic debut. I hope it is resolved as it is my favorite of all of them. 
will bring the book of station plans down too.

thank you for use of the track. 

richard 

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Starting to get to the end of the jobs list.

 

have made the frame extender for the rear. It is three levels made separately and each of a different shape then brought together to make the complex shape.

23425AAB-BB28-4AA7-A0AB-DBC63F70216C.jpeg.0c5f9d8aee1495573c9f02eff9828408.jpeg

the firebox has been smoothed off so the bands can be put on in the correct place. Farme extension just visible behind rear guard irons.
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seems firebox lumps and pipes below the cab are the only things left. ( I know such technical terms.) 

richard

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47 minutes ago, richard i said:

Starting to get to the end of the jobs list.

 

have made the frame extender for the rear. It is three levels made separately and each of a different shape then brought together to make the complex shape.

23425AAB-BB28-4AA7-A0AB-DBC63F70216C.jpeg.0c5f9d8aee1495573c9f02eff9828408.jpeg

the firebox has been smoothed off so the bands can be put on in the correct place. Farme extension just visible behind rear guard irons.
3B1EC427-453C-4896-8725-6B06CB1FE5EA.jpeg.1d16654f6c72ae984367e3cccabbdb4f.jpeg

seems firebox lumps and pipes below the cab are the only things left. ( I know such technical terms.) 

richard

 

Depending on the period you wish to represent, you may not need to fit the rounded covers on the top corners of the firebox. There are lots of photos of locos in the early GCR period with Belpaire fireboxes with no sign of anything there. The only thing I don't know is when they started fitting them and how quickly they were all done but there are photos of the 2-4-2 and 0-6-2 tanks without them. As your carriage livery choices are early period you could easily justify not adding them.

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3 hours ago, t-b-g said:

 

Depending on the period you wish to represent, you may not need to fit the rounded covers on the top corners of the firebox. There are lots of photos of locos in the early GCR period with Belpaire fireboxes with no sign of anything there. The only thing I don't know is when they started fitting them and how quickly they were all done but there are photos of the 2-4-2 and 0-6-2 tanks without them. As your carriage livery choices are early period you could easily justify not adding them.

That is good to know. I will look again, but feel I might have to. I am having carriages in all three livery so having them might give flexibility. I have been ummming ans ahhhhring over the chimney and have finally settled that it is 2mm too short. Now I have decided this I will have to address it though I hope the cut and shut will not be noticeable as a cut and shut. 
I am intending to make another 2-4-2 with round top firebox for variety sake which will cover the earlier period more. Anther reason to fit the lumps on the boiler sides of this one.

richard 

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