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Dettingen GCR might have been layout


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Both these are in French grey and brown so 1900-1903

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I am starting to think it is the opposite way around. That they fitted ladders when they fitted the corridor connections were as those got in the way of the steps being fitted. Most likely realizing that the extra flexibility was useful in practice. Then later ladders removed at same time as Barnums when steps partly over the windows were fitted. 
way off target? 

richard

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3 minutes ago, t-b-g said:

Richard, I have only just twigged what you are doing. I though you were working on some Worsley Works etches. If you are building the D & S Brake 1st, it includes a design fault that didn't get picked up until it was too late. As etched, the brake end and the compartment end are reversed to where they should be.

 

I have never heard of anybody finding a sensible way to correct it but if you are looking for a GCR carriage that matches the kit, you won't find one!

Tony,

I only have the all third from d&s. The rest are Worsley works. It is the fact that they came with only one flat end from the set but it seems both the first and third brake need a flat end. This started my digging. I am now being very thorough to make sure I do not need to retroactively correct things. Next up for research will be the luggage composite. I have photos of both sides and one end. I just want to confirm what the luggage end looks like before I proceed on that one. 
many thanks for all your advice,

Richard 

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45 minutes ago, richard i said:

Tony,

I only have the all third from d&s. The rest are Worsley works. It is the fact that they came with only one flat end from the set but it seems both the first and third brake need a flat end. This started my digging. I am now being very thorough to make sure I do not need to retroactively correct things. Next up for research will be the luggage composite. I have photos of both sides and one end. I just want to confirm what the luggage end looks like before I proceed on that one. 
many thanks for all your advice,

Richard 

 

Have you looked at this list Richard? It is the GCRS carriage drawing archive list.

 

http://www.gcrsociety.co.uk/GCRS Archive web - P.pdf

 

I don't know what sorts of drawings some of them are but there is an 1895 MSLR Luggage Composite listed if that is the one you are looking for. 

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9 hours ago, t-b-g said:

 

Have you looked at this list Richard? It is the GCRS carriage drawing archive list.

 

http://www.gcrsociety.co.uk/GCRS Archive web - P.pdf

 

I don't know what sorts of drawings some of them are but there is an 1895 MSLR Luggage Composite listed if that is the one you are looking for. 

Tony,

yes I have that’s where I dug up the other drawing. I am finding they only draw one end so I am looking at photos to check both. I have found one. It is bowed and has no windows. 
thanks 

richard

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Some times you have to have a break and do something different.

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a quick wagon build, (mainly) in plastic as a change from all the head scratching and brass soldering. 
head scratching from thinking and not lice, before some wise crack gets in that joke.

A GC five plank open. 
the kids have been out for the morning so it has been a really relaxing build. 
Richard 

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1 hour ago, Compound2632 said:

One that's been maturing nicely in the stash...

Not so long in my stash, but then I am not it’s first owner. I do like to build old kits, it lets me feel they were not manufactured in vain.

richard 

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Transferred applied. Both sides.

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some old G and C from dragon models. Which sort of worked, they were excellent to start but age and several Atlantic crossings have meant that these needed to be used as a template and then painting in to fill out the letter.

some old stars from R&E and the load from old time workshop M S & L .

thank heavens Old time workshop have just released a set of GCR wagon transfers.

richard 

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Roof experiments.

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not intended to be roofs but rather formers.
Clive might recognize the plasticard method, but it might make too shallow a roof so my measured steps might not have been as accurate as they needed to be. 

Keith might recognize the off cut of 9mm ply which is testing out the wooden alternative. It is too deep by 5.5 mm which may be an advantage giving strength.............or not, We will have to see.

we thinking to paint the bogies today but it is tipping it down with rain, so that will have to wait.

richard

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So the Clive method first. About an hour or so work all told. 

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mostly as I thought it would be an easier material to work with. The guide lines did let me know how close to shape I was. It might therefore be easier to guess the shape than on the wood former. 
I could make 7 of these, or I could slice this up and use as braces at intervals for a flat piece of plasticard of the right shape and length. 
I suppose that depends how successful the brass bending is. Where is Uri Gellar when you need him?

richard 

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I like the open wagon very much. You cannot have too many "native" open wagons, and Ashby kits were such a lovely build - though I remember, back in the day, being utterly bemused by the brakes. (There were no appropriate reference books in the day and very few photos were available to me.) I gradually realised that all pre-group companies had their own ideas as to wagon brakes, and that the GC was far from being the most eccentric. 

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On 13/08/2020 at 21:50, richard i said:

old time workshop M S & L .

 

I wasn't aware of Old Time Workshop's transfer range - just been for a look. MS&L - interesting. I wonder if they have CLC up their sleeve, especially the early style with CHESHIRE LINES in full...

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1 hour ago, Poggy1165 said:

I like the open wagon very much. You cannot have too many "native" open wagons, and Ashby kits were such a lovely build - though I remember, back in the day, being utterly bemused by the brakes. (There were no appropriate reference books in the day and very few photos were available to me.) I gradually realised that all pre-group companies had their own ideas as to wagon brakes, and that the GC was far from being the most eccentric. 

A fun build. If only there was more than one plastic kit to get your teeth into before switching to etched kits and scratch building.

1 hour ago, Compound2632 said:

I wasn't aware of Old Time Workshop's transfer range - just been for a look. MS&L - interesting. I wonder if they have CLC up their sleeve, especially the early style with CHESHIRE LINES in full...

prod him, he seems very open to helping, or at least that has been my experience. 
richard 

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Now the wood Former is done.

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measuring up with the end. The wood one is closer to the end dimensions, it might pay to have a little extra room to flex the brass to form the shape. 
I have been thinking about how to hold it all in alignment. I think I might try double sided tape to hold it in alignment. Not permanent but shown not bruise like a vice. 
here is hoping it works.

richard

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Richard,

If you have some small G clamps, clamp the brass onto the wood at each end. Then on a dense rubber mat or similar roll each side on the matt in the same way as you might make any bend in brass. I don't think double sided tape would work and sounds a bit messy and may distort the brass when you try to remove it. This should sort out the sides . Then remove the clamps and use a round bit of pipe/broom handle of suitable diameter to gently shape the top of the roof on the mat.

Cheers

Keith

 

PS I have some small clamps but Jim may have some better ones.

 

 

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3 hours ago, Keith Turbutt said:

Richard,

If you have some small G clamps, clamp the brass onto the wood at each end. Then on a dense rubber mat or similar roll each side on the matt in the same way as you might make any bend in brass. I don't think double sided tape would work and sounds a bit messy and may distort the brass when you try to remove it. This should sort out the sides . Then remove the clamps and use a round bit of pipe/broom handle of suitable diameter to gently shape the top of the roof on the mat.

Cheers

Keith

 

PS I have some small clamps but Jim may have some better ones.

 

 

Keith,

thanks I had thought clamps would bruise the metal. Plus height might stop rolling being as easy. 
need to accurately cut out width too.

an onion problem , layer on layer of things to sort.

richard 

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Richard

 

Bring them along tomorrow and we'll take a look. I presume your reference to height is in connection with the clamps. I don't think they will bruise the metal as they will only be pressing down on the former which is presumably the correct shape already. Height shouldn't be a problem for rolling the side edges and you shouldn't need the clamps for rolling the main part of the roof. Cutting to length might be done before rolling? 

 

Keith

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Today was roof day.

experimenting at club on a way to form the various curves in the roof. A small test piece was made to test the process and quieter the doubters of the plan. (Leaning on the clamp)

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A completed roof.

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then home to to form the other roofs needed. Some incentive to complete them so I can return the borrowed clamps and shears. But also, the fact that in order to have the space to do the work, I needed to take over the living room and that has a time limit on how long the household management would put up with disruption in there. 
So they are ready for the next stage. 
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next to drill them for roof furniture, that ties them to a specific carriage.

richard

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