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Dettingen GCR might have been layout


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32 minutes ago, James Harrison said:

I'm envious (to the nth degree) of your coach building skills.  Very, very nice work.  Presumably the next project is a Parker or Pollit 4-4-0 (or even a Pollitt Single?) to haul them?

Very kind of you to say so. They look rougher when you get up closer to them. The don’t half take a time to build too. There are plans for both those locos in the pipeline. I have a kit for the 4-4-0 and bits of tube and flat brass for the single. However as only an o4, d11 and a j11 are the only r-t-r then having to build everything else is taking a long time. Especially at the glacial pace which my build seem to move at. Then I attribute that partly to the job and kids.

still have not fully resolved hove I am going to do the lined panel on the sole bar which will slow it down again.

richard 
 

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Playing around with the lining for the solebars. 
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on here are many tries with 0.5mm pens. Lots of lines on the cardboard. However most are not visible on the black and brown paint. Those that are just do not have the right hue.

the brass is possibly for the bowpen, but never got it to work so far and the brass paint comes out too inconsistent in colour.
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I might have to wait till shops open and get the mix of buff and yellow to do a proper job. 

still need to work out how to make the bowpen do what I want in the mean time.

richard 

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1 hour ago, richard i said:

still need to work out how to make the bowpen do what I want in the mean time.

You need to experiment to get the consistency of the paint right, slightly thinned.  Use a brush to load the bow pen (not too much) and wipe any excess off the outer sides of the pen.  It sometimes helps to just touch a scrap surface immediately before drawing the line, just to get the paint flowing off the pen.  Don't press with the pen, just let it sit on the surface under it's own weight and guide it.     At least these are my experiences.

 

Jim

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19 hours ago, Caley Jim said:

You need to experiment to get the consistency of the paint right, slightly thinned.  Use a brush to load the bow pen (not too much) and wipe any excess off the outer sides of the pen.  It sometimes helps to just touch a scrap surface immediately before drawing the line, just to get the paint flowing off the pen.  Don't press with the pen, just let it sit on the surface under it's own weight and guide it.     At least these are my experiences.

 

Jim

I will try this if that is my route. I am also thinking of looking at drawing it on the computer and then printing. Can guarantee straight lines then! I have the decal paper. 

richard

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Development phase.

have tried to print gold lined brown panels from drawing in paint. It does not like telling you all the dimensions. So I have numbered and measured the prints to know which to keep and hopefully copy. 14 needed. 
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the colour is a bit off as it an old cartridge so that bothers me less. They were the right length according to the numbers but then I had to print in A4. It will be further complicated as I think the transfer paper is 8’ x11’ as it is from the USA. 
I also need to see if the printer will print it flat or only take from the tray below. If not...plan C (?) 

richard

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Window trial. Using this glue.

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Trial stick is by the end of the words. Certainly sticks, is not as clear as they suggest. It needs pressure for that. Just use the glue on the unsighted overlap. It did not fog.

it does need two hours to dry. That should not be a problem to leave and return to with 7 to glaze.

should at least mean no windows fall out in a year or two time. 
richard 

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I've used Glue n Glaze for my windows, though any thick PVA glue should work just as well.  I've avoided using superglue for windows for a while now, as I got fed up trying to rescue them after the frosting got hold.

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7 hours ago, Manxman1831 said:

I've used Glue n Glaze for my windows, though any thick PVA glue should work just as well.  I've avoided using superglue for windows for a while now, as I got fed up trying to rescue them after the frosting got hold.

It promises to not fog up but be stronger than other glue and dry clear so if some gets on the visible window it is unseen. I thought it worth a try. I will check tonight to see if it is worth keeping on going with.

richard 

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Glue n glaze also dries to a slight rubbery consistency, so any excess which you get on the glazing can be gently taken away with the use of a hardish, but not sharp, instrument, such as a small jewellers screwdriver or even a piece of scrap styrene.  In fact you can take away a good bit of any excess this way a minute or so after you apply it and before it is fully dry as it dries quite quickly.  The way I use it is to sit the glazing piece in place and then run some adhesive around the edges with a pointed instrument dipped in it, wait 30 seconds or so and then remove any gross excess.

 

Jim

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  • 2 weeks later...

I got the chance to take the carriages for a road test. I spent the time trying to tweak them to improve running so did not take out a camera. Three ran fine, the others needed more serious adjustments which I have looked to do.

I have started on the interiors which look like a confusing set of lines.

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these are the floors with marks for where the internal walls go. 
here is hoping it all works out. Not looking forward to cutting out all the compartment windows. Flash backs to the Barnums.

richard

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Hi Richard, hope you don't mind my sharing the progress with my own interiors.  I started with measuring and cutting seating strips for each of the compartments (15 in total for my own 4 coaches), and then working out how they'll fit within the coach.  Each 'bench' is 20mm wide, which allows for a corridor width of 10mm (roughly, as at least one of the interiors is narrower than it should be for some reason).  A 7mm wide strip (cut to length appropriate to the individual coach) is glued to positon at one end 'bench', and the rest of the seating installed.

 

Looking forward to seeing your own take on the interiors.

IMG_20210404_194209.jpg

IMG_20210404_194249.jpg

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4 hours ago, Manxman1831 said:

Hi Richard, hope you don't mind my sharing the progress with my own interiors.  I started with measuring and cutting seating strips for each of the compartments (15 in total for my own 4 coaches), and then working out how they'll fit within the coach.  Each 'bench' is 20mm wide, which allows for a corridor width of 10mm (roughly, as at least one of the interiors is narrower than it should be for some reason).  A 7mm wide strip (cut to length appropriate to the individual coach) is glued to positon at one end 'bench', and the rest of the seating installed.

 

Looking forward to seeing your own take on the interiors.

IMG_20210404_194209.jpg

IMG_20210404_194249.jpg

This has given me an idea. I was going to cut out the windows but you seem to be doing it by using different pieces to make the down struts around the windows. 
no interiors yet in mine, but glazing here for their portraits.

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richard

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Yes, the basic interior is 7mm strip along the bottom and bench ends, with 3mm (First class) and 2mm (Third class) strips for the internal window pillars, topped off with 1.5mm 'L' angle.  I did cheat with the faux-BTK, with that having the First class spacing in the compartments, those Thirds actually have the thicker pillars.

 

Did you get to the bottom of why certain ones were derailing?

Edited by Manxman1831
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Cruel close-ups using my phones camera to show the visible interior of my all First. Corridor side is painted Humbrol 63 (sand), First class seats are painted Humbrol 25 (matt mid French blue from memory).  According to Jenkinson, the First class compartments had white cloth on the partitions above the seats - I've continued this colour to the pillars (just left plastic white) - while the outer side had mahogany-inlayed panelling (leaving that as bare brass).

DSC_0458.jpg

DSC_0459.jpg

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6 hours ago, Manxman1831 said:

Yes, the basic interior is 7mm strip along the bottom and bench ends, with 3mm (First class) and 2mm (Third class) strips for the internal window pillars, topped off with 1.5mm 'L' angle.  I did cheat with the faux-BTK, with that having the First class spacing in the compartments, those Thirds actually have the thicker pillars.

 

Did you get to the bottom of why certain ones were derailing?

Thanks for the numbers. I have the exact figures for each part of the compartment and they are within a smidge of what you are quoting. The derailing was for different reasons. A back to back had slipped/ bogie not quite squared. One was catching on the brake cylinder and one on the underframe/ solebars. I think they are all addresses now. 
richard 

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Slowly moving forward. I decided to cut windows from a single sheet. 
6FCC6BCA-F331-46E3-929E-4E40D5BBE928.jpeg.0d3eda612cc2926b77ceb84a7af8e962.jpeg

That after putting in the compartments on the wrong side of the carriage. There was me thinking I had been so meticulous with it. I must delve into colours. Seats blue first red third ( I think) corridors dark wood and inside the compartments the same, but Manxman has me thinking I need to check the white upper panels. Just on firsts?

one down in a week six to go. So done by the end of may?
richard 

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Great Central is often quoted as being green for First class and brown for Third, though I can't remember the source for that.  My own choice of First-blue was purely on a whim.  Third-brown was chosen through looking at my dad's coaches.

 

The white panels question is down to a couple of drawings in Jenkinsons tome "British Railway Carriages of the 20th Century" volume 1, figure 33 on page 67, and figure 44 on page 168.  They do both refer to the Luggage Composite, and assuming you have the book will require a magnifying glass to view the details. 

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3 hours ago, richard i said:

Slowly moving forward. I decided to cut windows from a single sheet. 
6FCC6BCA-F331-46E3-929E-4E40D5BBE928.jpeg.0d3eda612cc2926b77ceb84a7af8e962.jpeg

That after putting in the compartments on the wrong side of the carriage. There was me thinking I had been so meticulous with it. I must delve into colours. Seats blue first red third ( I think) corridors dark wood and inside the compartments the same, but Manxman has me thinking I need to check the white upper panels. Just on firsts?

one down in a week six to go. So done by the end of may?
richard 

 

Richard,

The MS&LR had blue for Firsts and red for Thirds.  I always seem to think that should be the colour as that was/is the colour of First and Third, although that is not universal anymore. 

 

I got on a train and all the seats in the coach were blue, and my seat was very roomy.  I eventually realised that I was not in a First and on another journey realised that the seat I had sat in was for the disabled, if they were any, which is why there was more room.

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5 hours ago, Manxman1831 said:

Great Central is often quoted as being green for First class and brown for Third, though I can't remember the source for that.  My own choice of First-blue was purely on a whim.  Third-brown was chosen through looking at my dad's coaches.

 

The white panels question is down to a couple of drawings in Jenkinsons tome "British Railway Carriages of the 20th Century" volume 1, figure 33 on page 67, and figure 44 on page 168.  They do both refer to the Luggage Composite, and assuming you have the book will require a magnifying glass to view the details. 

Thank you.  I have the book so will look into it, though red or ruddy brown through a window unlit might be difficult to tell apart. 
 

 

2 hours ago, ChrisN said:

 

Richard,

The MS&LR had blue for Firsts and red for Thirds.  I always seem to think that should be the colour as that was/is the colour of First and Third, although that is not universal anymore. 

 

I got on a train and all the seats in the coach were blue, and my seat was very roomy.  I eventually realised that I was not in a First and on another journey realised that the seat I had sat in was for the disabled, if they were any, which is why there was more room.

this stirs up the water a bit. If there was a change I wonder if it came about when Robinson took over.

richard 

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  • 2 weeks later...

The buffet car. 
4DC69E09-77C3-4DA8-9946-2C4E4A7DF740.jpeg.5eaf4bd7a935b7bcee8200942b1a1504.jpeg
 

went to town on the bar, but no turned beer bottles....yet. 

078DAF0A-632A-4D19-9E08-45AE07175E90.jpeg.834f89de10028cb579b3efa3dde2dede.jpeg
the plasticard has got dimpled where a bit of cement was used. Sometimes it does, and sometimes it doesn’t. There does not seem to be any rhyme or reason to when it does. 
richard 

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