davetheroad Posted August 30, 2015 Author Share Posted August 30, 2015 I build my own Txs and they are Ok to build if you have any experience with electronics as you have to identify the parts eg the resistors and fit them in to fairly tight spaces, OK if you are used to it. I'd say a small electronics soldering iron, electronic grade flux cored solder, and a multimeter to check resistor values are pretty well essential. One tip, the actual transmitter module is ready assembled but you have to make connections to a three by seven matrix of pins at 1/10 inch spacing which is quite tight. However the pins are the same spacing as servo connectors as the module started life as a receiver for aeroplanes - just with different programming! You can buy ready wired servo connectors from aircraft model shops and these will plug straight on to the pins then you can use the wires to connect into the rest of the circuit. Makes it a lot easier! There are a lot of pins but you only need three or four connectors as the majority of the pins are power connections and you only need to connect the positive and negative once each. Hope this helps Frank Neat idea about using servo connectors, i will remember that for when I build a Tx. I like using connectors as it means i can make the installations modular using SIL sockets and solid core wire. I might try one of those cheap E-flight aircraft transmitters as well as it might be a good idea to assemble a cheap 'try-it' kit for those who want to try radio control/battery power. Meanwhile I have just finished completely rebuilding my fiddle yard and adding a crossover to the main lines. Took a couple of hours a day for 10 days and not a wire or switch in sight!. Oh how I like no wiring. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kada33 Posted August 30, 2015 Share Posted August 30, 2015 Hi Frank and Dave I had already thought of using plug on connectors, I have purchased a pack of three JST plug and sockets just for that purpose. In the Tx22 kit the wiring examples show them soldered to the pins, although I could do that I prefer push on connectors. I shall post photos as I put it together, I intend to have small pieces of PCB for the + & - rails. The example drawing looks to my eye a bit messy. Many years ago I used to wire and install telephone exchanges, this had to look neat and tidy and has stayed with me to this day. The Selector switch that came in the kit is a PCB type, not one with eyelets on the ends so I've bent the pins over 90 deg. Photo coming. Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kada33 Posted August 30, 2015 Share Posted August 30, 2015 Here's an update now having added the resistors around the selector switch. I used 22swg 0.7mm cored solder for this, you don't end up with large amounts of solder on small items. It looks quite daunting when first looked at but I started on pin 12 and worked round to pin 1 soldering one pin with two res. legs at a time. This enables the res. leg to be bent for the next pin, then continue round to pin one. I've also added R35 to pin one and R36 to pin 12 leaving a short leg to attach wires to. One to the 3.1V rail and the other to the 0v rail. Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davetheroad Posted August 30, 2015 Author Share Posted August 30, 2015 That soldering looks very neat. I have no idea what you mean by pcb + and - rails ???? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
fallen Posted August 31, 2015 Share Posted August 31, 2015 Davetheroad, Just to confuse you, the electronics fraternity refers to the main positive and negative supply lines in a circuit as the "rails", "positive rail" and "negative rail", or supply and ground. When you draw out the circuit the "rails" are usually drawn at the top and bottom of the drawing with the rest of the circuit in between, so they do look like rails. On the circuit board itself, though, they can wander about all over the place. The PCB is the Printed Circuit Board, although here I think Dave is meaning that he will use small pieces of PCB material ie unetched copper clad board as the power supply connection points. Very neat work Dave. It looks like DavidT has changed the switch as the first ones had normal eyelet tags to solder to. I think that works better though. Frank Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kada33 Posted August 31, 2015 Share Posted August 31, 2015 Davetheroad, Just to confuse you, the electronics fraternity refers to the main positive and negative supply lines in a circuit as the "rails", "positive rail" and "negative rail", or supply and ground. When you draw out the circuit the "rails" are usually drawn at the top and bottom of the drawing with the rest of the circuit in between, so they do look like rails. On the circuit board itself, though, they can wander about all over the place. The PCB is the Printed Circuit Board, although here I think Dave is meaning that he will use small pieces of PCB material ie unetched copper clad board as the power supply connection points. Very neat work Dave. It looks like DavidT has changed the switch as the first ones had normal eyelet tags to solder to. I think that works better though. Frank Hi Frank Thanks for adding the description of the electronic speak, you tend to forget that not ever one understands the terminology used. I'll do better next time. I think I have found the supplier of the switch (Maplins) so I'm going to one of there store near me to see if I can get a correct knob that fit over the locking nut. Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davetheroad Posted August 31, 2015 Author Share Posted August 31, 2015 Fascinating stuff, how I love jargon!. I was checking out the circuit diagram. I reckon another version with everything laid out so the great unwashed can see the difference with all the bits and bobs laid out on a plain background with the wires drawn in colour. Another thing i like is someone could easily vary the positions of the knobs etc and even after buying a Tx2 for £14 source the other bits themselves. That actually might be more expensive than buying a kit though? Keep up the good work ps - cleaned all the track today with IPA, hardly any dirt came off and it has been almost a year since the last cleaning. None of all that micro arcing with batteries! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kada33 Posted September 1, 2015 Share Posted September 1, 2015 Hi All Update with a new photo, all the resistors fitted and the +ve & -ve wiring, you can see the two power bus bars on each side. I've also added the only two wires that have to be soldered to the Tx22. I've ordered some JST connectors for the other five wires, for these I'm going to use yellow wire, it is the thinnest wire I have. The Tx22 will be turned upside down just in front of the battery. Deltang provide a thin plastic sleeve that fits over the circuitry up to the pins. I'll post another photo when all the wires have been fitted before I screw the lid on. Still got to go to Maplins to check out the knobs. In case anyone is interested here's the link to the Tx22 kit with photos of a suggested method of assembly. I chose to do it this way. http://www.deltang.co.uk/tx22c-kit.htm Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davetheroad Posted September 1, 2015 Author Share Posted September 1, 2015 Ah! now I see what you mean by 'rails', much neater and easier than twisting wires together. What adhesive did you use to glue them to the case? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kada33 Posted September 1, 2015 Share Posted September 1, 2015 Ah! now I see what you mean by 'rails', much neater and easier than twisting wires together. What adhesive did you use to glue them to the case? Hi Dave, I use two part epoxy which come in two tubes joined together with a single plunger. So when you press the plunger you get an equal amount out, you just eject the amount you need so there is very little waste. It is a five min type which gives plenty of time to get items in the correct place. I also use it on my models where I can't use solder. Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kada33 Posted September 4, 2015 Share Posted September 4, 2015 I managed to get to Maplins in Kings Lynn this morning to source a knob and success! It it from the same range as the speed knob but next size down 24mm Dia & 20mm Height. Type K14c Order number FK40 and at £1.19p bargain. It sticks up above the Inertia knob by 4mm but that is better than seeing the washer and nut. I will show a photo when it is complete. Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kada33 Posted September 17, 2015 Share Posted September 17, 2015 Hi All I've now managed to complete the building of the Tx22 Kit, photos included. Luckily pin 4 is not used so I was able to cut in half the JST plug for pins 3 & 4 so I could get the plug to fit on pins 5 & 6, still a tight fit. You can now see the difference with the selector knob, but I believe it looks better than the small know that is on the Inertia pot next to it. I haven't calibrated any of it yet, and I haven't got a suitable box van to put all the batteries and Rx in yet either. If you have a look on WT website in the 1/32 section you will see what I been doing lately, Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davetheroad Posted September 18, 2015 Author Share Posted September 18, 2015 Amazing it all fits in!. Maybe soldering just a couple of the transmitter connections would help? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
fallen Posted September 19, 2015 Share Posted September 19, 2015 Looks a good job Dave, very neatly done. I made a partition out of thin styrene sheet to keep the battery in place at the bottom, and stop it rattling around. Ordinary polystyrene glue will stick it to the box, which I guess must be styrene too. Frank Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kada33 Posted September 20, 2015 Share Posted September 20, 2015 Hi All Have a look at the link below Rik Bennett describes how he built a Deltang Tx20 from a kit and also shows the build of my Tx22 Kit. There is a lot of Radio Control information on his blog site, check out the 'contents' button at the top of the page and scroll down to the bottom. http://riksrailway.blogspot.co.uk/2015/09/how-i-constructed-deltang-tx20.html Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davetheroad Posted September 20, 2015 Author Share Posted September 20, 2015 Excellent Link - Thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kada33 Posted October 13, 2015 Share Posted October 13, 2015 Hi All Just a quick update, now finished and tested the Tx22 with the Rx65b and all is working perfectly. One thing remains to do and that is to get a Prog4 programmer from David T of Deltang and to program a Emergency Stop using the Bind button. Reading the Deltang website will give the information as to what is needed to achieve this. (An RS232 driver & CoolTerm). This is also is also described in detail on Ge Rik's Blogspot see my link in #40 above So when running my G1 45xx on a test bed on my bench and pressing momentarily the Bind button the loco stopped within 3s. Success. Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kada33 Posted February 11, 2016 Share Posted February 11, 2016 Hi All I thought I would update you to where I'm up to at the moment. See the photos. The box van was originally built in resin but was found to be too brittle so the future ones will be made of wood. The chassis is a prototype made out of 1mm MDF, but from now on it will be a laser cut steel one. The springs.axleboxes, & drawhooks are from Ken Martin, S/C buffers are from Graham Jones of NMRS, and the wheels will properly be from Peter Korzillius. The ones on this van are from him. I have now run this with above R/C and have programmed the bind button to also become an EM stop set to 3sec. I also intend to change the 12 AA batteries for 4 Li-ion ones which will be far less weight and give more prolonged power 3800mAh against the current ones that are 2150mAh. DaveB PS I will add photos of the steel chassis when I've built it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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