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Kirley's Workbench


kirley
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The end of March was the last time I posted on my SG build so you can guess things were not progressing smoothly.

 

Initially all went well  with the model painted and decals added.

 

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However when it came to getting the engine running with the wheels properly quartered and the connecting rods making smooth turns it was not happening.  To my rescue came Antony, a Forum Member, who took the time and patience to show me where I was going wrong and advising best practice on pickups as well as other matters.  It was great having a tutorial and getting the locomotive running at the same time.  

 

At last I got it running on the layout but I have still to do more work on the pickups and possibly adding additional weight but at least it is moving.

I now have a greater admiration to those who build brass kits and have them running like an RTR model.

 

A well edited video of the SG in action with all the stalls etc removed. 

 

 

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

GNR(I) JT Locomotive

 

An unusual build using a 3D body and covering it in plasticard.  The body is made by Richard Hobbs and is sold through Shapeways site: https://www.shapeways.com/product/322AX6GR7/4mm-scale-gnri-jt-tank-body-shell-16-5mm-gauge?optionId=8347275

 

Anyone who has visited the Transport Museum at Cultra will have seen this preserved locomotive and it is nice to reproduce it in model form.

 

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The photo above is a test run on my DC track.  The video below shows my attempts to run it on DCC.  You may notice in the first half the running is not smooth but after some adjustment to the CV's hopefully an improvement is seen.

 

Edited by kirley
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  • 1 month later...

BCDR Locomotive Class1, Bogie Tank.

 

Someone suggested to me that the new Oxford Adams Tank would be good for a conversion to a BCDR Class 1 and when one came up on ebay at a reasonable price I went for it.

 

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As you can see it's a beautifully finished locomotive and it seemed an awful shame to hack it but once a start was made it got less painful.

 

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There was an lot of pieces to remove before extending the side tanks.

 

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A new firebox was next addition.

 

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All the cab windows were wrong so some had to be reduced in size and others added.

 

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New filler caps were required in the bunker and then I noticed the back is supposed to go up in a curve.

 

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New hand rails, filler caps and smokebox door handle added

 

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It was great to have the preserved No.30 at Cultra to refer to and I took plenty of photographs.

 

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As the painting stage was approaching I started making enquires about the 'Green' colour used on the body.  I was referred to Desmond Coakham’s book as the leading authority on the BCDR.  In it he states, “We may complain about the painting style (carried out at the York Road Works) of No.30 that now reposes in the Ulster Folk & Transport Museum. The green is wrong and the company initials were not carried after ‘Invisible Green’ was given up,”

 

It seems the green colours used on the BCDR were ‘Indivisible Green’ almost black in colour followed from 1937 by a dark Olive Green.  Humbrol have a Olive Drab No.155 so I decided to try it.

 

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A light first coat in Matt.

 

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I'm not sure about the colour, a coat of gloss varnish may lift it a bit but without any colour pictures to compare it with I'm just guessing.

 

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LifeColor French Kaki (22ml) FS 34096 is also known as dark olive, perhaps it would be worth a try.  Any suggestions would be most welcome.

Edited by kirley
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Kirley,that looks like a rather nice loco, invisible green i s a tricky one like improved engine green that looks like a sort of yellow! The Pennsylvania had Brunswick green locos, nine parts black one part  green and I think they look black. So its down to what looks right to you but I would err on the dark side.

   Whopee! I got one of those guards duckets soldered up the most frustrating part of JM's kit.  Hope you got a good tan in Spain  :sungum:

       Mike

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That captures the spirit of the County Down!

The cover picture on Des Coakham's book should give you a good idea of the colour as he approved Eric Bottomley's depiction of the scene. I wonder if the original painting is any different from the book's print? - I suspect there's little difference. I think Downpatrick probably have the painting.

Also there are prints of BCDR in Lord O'Neills book.

 

The Greer model (on display in the Slieve Donard Hotel) I would imagine to be pretty accurate, as should be Fred Graham's models - he often got some paint from the railway company. (P9011874-2, 76-2 & 77-2)

Phil Aspinwall built the kit of No. 6 and used Brunswick green mixed with black and white until he got what he wanted! (P4240328).

 

Cheers'

Antony

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   Whopee! I got one of those guards duckets soldered up the most frustrating part of JM's kit.   :sungum:

       Mike

 

Thanks Mike, glad to hear you got the ducket soldered, so there is nothing stopping you now, thought three hands would make that job easier.

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I'd be inclined (having come thus far) to drop the cab roof by a mm or two, it does seem to sit a bit "high" to me.  

It may well make it  "incorrect" but the whole loco is likely to be a bit small, as is my own one, No 30, based on an ancient "K's kit made in the 1970s. All I used of the K's model (from the footplate up anyway!) was the boiler/smokebox and chimney/dome.   In the end the general "look" is the most important thing, especially when (as in all conversions) it can never be 100% "right" anyway!  I've been thinking of doing my own Oxford loco but I think I'll do complete new side tanks, cab, bunker etc.as before. For comparison, No 12 was built from a Craftsman GNR C12 4-4-2 and isn't 100% satisfactory either, she just looks a  wee bit too "tall" to me despite being based much more closely on the  only drawings i have, which may not be  all that accurate anyway.  Since the picture of 12 was taken I  replaced the chimney which was a GNR style one and quite wrong..   Ho hum, never satisfied, though.  

 

Those are excellent pics of the Fred Graham models  - the Baltic just makes me want one in 00......but as yet i haven't been able to find a suitable donor chassis. I doubt if any English railway had anything like the BCDR locos. 

 

Colm

 

2 pictures of No 30 on my previous layout:

 

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No 12

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  • 3 weeks later...

Thanks for the comments but I'm not sure what you mean Colm about being to short.  If anything this model is over a foot in length longer, 38' 6" against the drawing 36' 11" over the buffers but its about 0.5 mm higher in the Cab if my measurements are correct.

 

Anyway this is how it ended up.  I had to move the dome and replaced it with a higher one but would have preferred an even taller one if I could have got one.

 

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Just waiting on a decoder before it's first run out but then I'll need some BCDR coaches to run with it...more building?

Edited by kirley
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which green did you finally use? as it looks rather good. I wondered wether a Hornby  B12 might make a starting point for a Baltic? or is that putting ideas in your head!   :sungum:

I ended up using Tamiya Olive Green and lifted it with initially a gloss varnish before finishing with a satin one.

 

A B12 as donor for a Baltic, is it doable? Looks a lot of work, I have seen pictures of 00 Baltic Tanks which look great but don't know what was used as a donor, suggestions anyone.

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Kieran, my reasoning for the B12 chassis for a Baltic was the Hornby drivers are too small for a B12 but spaced close together and the trailing bogie plus cyls and valve gear from Peters Spares. But the body? all scratch built I think  I believe Nelson posted a drawing, some while ago; can't remember which site though. A lot of work though.

  I like your 4-4-2t conversion for a Bandon Neilson tank which were very similar to your B&CDR loco.

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You can find some excellent drawings for the Baltic tanks in this thread that I created some while ago. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/97273-bcdr-baltic-drawings/

I remember very clearly putting together a list of parts to create a accurate running chassis, but it would have cost me £70 and that's without any motor or gearbox, so i gave up haha. The body will have to be scratch built, I don't think there's any viable way around it. If anyone is interested, correctly sized wheels can be got from scalelink.

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