Scalescenes Posted February 2, 2015 Author Share Posted February 2, 2015 It is another brilliant kit, and while I've purchased, I've nowhere yet to put it. Reason I'm posting is that in Issue 87 of Hornby Magazine (Sep 2014) when the 3 parts of the 'factory complex' started there was reference made as to how 'this series of three buildings can be assembled in a number of ways and also links in with Scalescenes' new kit for a low relief factory allowing the complex we have designed to be extended further.' I would take it that this kit is the kit being referenced and hope that when the 3 parts are released on the site that there's something mentioned to link them. Having gone through the instructions for this low relief factory I can't see any mention unless I've missed something. If anyone knows anything or has any guesses, I'd love to hear. Thanks Hi Michael The Low Relief Factory is not really related to the series of industrial buildings I designed for Hornby Magazine last year. You can download the warehouse from here (now on the website as Industrial A - Warehouse, the Boilerhouse, Workshop and Water Tower will follow in the next few weeks labelled as Industrial B, C and D). Basically they are all designed to fit together in various configurations, see image below. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gazmanjack Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 I have purchased this kit now and assembled it. For some reason the printing on the side wall sections didn't line up with the main face of the building. Hmmm ?? Considering that the kit was printed out in one go and no changes were made to the quality or size of the print, I'm puzzled. One thing I did change was the platform roof. I chose to cover the carcass of the roof with some corrugated card that I had. This represents the old corrugated asbestos that was once widely used. Overall, a great kit to build and will soon take place on my new plank, Industry Lane. Cheers, Gary. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CourthsVeil Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 ..... I find cutting the curved holes for windows a ad arduous but there's no getting around if.... Rob, you might try out something like this - very helpful ! Regards Armin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Carmody Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 Hi Michael The Low Relief Factory is not really related to the series of industrial buildings I designed for Hornby Magazine last year. You can download the warehouse from here (now on the website as Industrial A - Warehouse, the Boilerhouse, Workshop and Water Tower will follow in the next few weeks labelled as Industrial B, C and D). Basically they are all designed to fit together in various configurations, see image below. IMG_4268_full.jpg Thanks for that John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giggle pin Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 John, i bought some a4 labels. Eek. 17 beer credits! Printed them out and now i have just to find sone 2mm card. Looking promissing so far. Bri Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BG John Posted February 2, 2015 Share Posted February 2, 2015 Hi Michael The Low Relief Factory is not really related to the series of industrial buildings I designed for Hornby Magazine last year. You can download the warehouse from here (now on the website as Industrial A - Warehouse, the Boilerhouse, Workshop and Water Tower will follow in the next few weeks labelled as Industrial B, C and D). Basically they are all designed to fit together in various configurations, see image below. IMG_4268_full.jpg I'm using the Low Relief Factory as a dairy on my new layout, with the Industrial A Warehouse joined at right angles to it, as shown in this appallingly rough mock-up! The plan is to make the factory wider, so it goes to the back of the warehouse. I'll brick up the doorway that's in line with the platform track, assuming that in a previous life, the track extended inside the building. I've had to reverse the back of the Warehouse, so it tapers in the opposite direction, by loading some of the pages into GIMP and making a mirror image. The track on the far left of the photo will be the fiddle yard, and I will be putting a backscene this side of, and parallel to, it, which is why I need to reverse the taper on the Warehouse. I'm tempted by the new buildings, as they may be just what I need to go along the backscene, maybe in low-relief. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Job's Modelling Posted February 15, 2015 Share Posted February 15, 2015 I have done some kit bashing with the factory. Just some picture. If you want more information how I made it have a look at my blog on the RM web. Kind regards, Job Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Job's Modelling Posted February 15, 2015 Share Posted February 15, 2015 Hi Michael The Low Relief Factory is not really related to the series of industrial buildings I designed for Hornby Magazine last year. You can download the warehouse from here (now on the website as Industrial A - Warehouse, the Boilerhouse, Workshop and Water Tower will follow in the next few weeks labelled as Industrial B, C and D). Basically they are all designed to fit together in various configurations, see image below. IMG_4268_full.jpg I;m looking forward to them Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
burgundy Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 The low relief factory kit, doubled up and with an added warehouse kit, to provide 2' 9" of low relief backscene. The photo is taken with the kits flat on a table, as they will not finally be put together until a joint competition entry layout is ready to incorporate them. They will then get a layer of grime to blend in with the rest. Best wishes Eric Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasatcopthorne Posted February 23, 2015 Share Posted February 23, 2015 Atten John. Am about to bouilt this item but have a query. I usually understand most of the instructions but have found one thing a bit odd. On the 'parapet' it states to glue the front and rear printed sheets back-to-back and apply to top of wall. Does this part really only consisted of two thinknesses of paper and why is the rear printed if it is to be applied to the wall? Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CourthsVeil Posted February 23, 2015 Share Posted February 23, 2015 Dave, the Parapet is contained on page 5 of the Low Relief Factory print templates. The symbol down right there says that this very page has to be glued onto Heavy Card before any further action taken. So you must not glue "the printed sheets" (as you say) back-to-back, but rather the two thick card stripes with printout attached. Hope this helps Armin PS: otherwise the symbol down right would say "print only" as you can see on page 2 of the templates. edit: and pls do not apply it TO the wall but ON TOP of the wall… (see instruction no. 29!) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasatcopthorne Posted February 23, 2015 Share Posted February 23, 2015 Dave, the Parapet is contained on page 5 of the Low Relief Factory print templates. The symbol down right there says that this very page has to be glued onto Heavy Card before any further action taken. So you must not glue "the printed sheets" (as you say) back-to-back, but rather the two thick card stripes with printout attached. Hope this helps Armin PS: otherwise the symbol down right would say "print only" as you can see on page 2 of the templates. edit: and pls do not apply it TO the wall but ON TOP of the wall… (see instruction no. 29!) OK. Thanks for that. Now I can see that the 'parapet' is fitted to the top 'edge' of the structure and NOT just along the 'top of the wall'. However, with all other such parts, there is a 'base layer' template to cut out and fix to the heavy card. This is what I was looking for and could not find. Instruction 28 clearly states that the two parapet pieces (front & rear) should be glued back to back. I think there is a 'parapet base layer' and an instruction missing for this. Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CourthsVeil Posted February 23, 2015 Share Posted February 23, 2015 Dave, there's nothing missing – base layer in this case is unnecessary (as well as in the case of the doors). John W. does a very good job – I too had to learn to read the instructions carefully and to look at the accompanying images the same manner. Reading twice and really slowly is better than hustling into building. Armin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 Incidentally, as the window frames are a feature here, to achieve a more realistic, faded black on the printouts, immediately they emerge from the printer, rush to the bathroom, and over the bath [...think SWMBO - minimum mess - easy clean up...] hold it at 45 degrees, sprinkle talcum powder all over the printed before it has the least chance to dry. Then, put it down, resist any temptation to do anything for at least one hour. Now, when the Domestic Goddess is in a suitably pliant mood ask to borrow her 'Blender'. No, not the thing for making soup, but a very soft fluffy make-up brush. Should you be a solo life-navigator, go out, shoot a rabbit and cut off its tail and use that to brush off the loose powder, having shaken off the majority of loose powder in the bath [see para 1 above]. See the windows on the right-hand factory extension here http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/12550-a-couple-of-scalescenes-texture-paper-models/ compared with the more stark windows on the main building. Doug Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BG John Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 Incidentally, as the window frames are a feature here, to achieve a more realistic, faded black on the printouts, immediately they emerge from the printer, rush to the bathroom, and over the bath [...think SWMBO - minimum mess - easy clean up...] hold it at 45 degrees, sprinkle talcum powder all over the printed before it has the least chance to dry. What if you're using a laser printer? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Campaman Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 With a Laser printer you could try adjusting the colour balance using the printer driver settings to get a dark grey colour, laser printers print by melting the plastic toner onto the paper/film so you do not get the problems with lighter colours being see through like you do with inkjets Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoBo Posted March 1, 2015 Share Posted March 1, 2015 I have purchased this kit now and assembled it. For some reason the printing on the side wall sections didn't line up with the main face of the building. Hmmm ?? Considering that the kit was printed out in one go and no changes were made to the quality or size of the print, I'm puzzled. DSCN4388 X.jpg One thing I did change was the platform roof. I chose to cover the carcass of the roof with some corrugated card that I had. This represents the old corrugated asbestos that was once widely used. Overall, a great kit to build and will soon take place on my new plank, Industry Lane. Cheers, Gary. Hi Gary, I had the same problem which I think I may have sussed... Building this kit has revealed what I believe to be a small fault and, if you intend making it, is something you should be aware of, unfortunately, I didn't sus it out until after I'd finished, but clearly 'approximate measurements' are not ideal in this instance and a warning on the instructions is probably required. The 'Assembly' instructions provided recommend card of the following 'approximate' thicknesses - Heavy 2mm; Med 1mm, Light 200gsm, which I believed mine to be. However, I later discovered by measuring with digital calipers, the heavy and med card (sold as 2mm & 1mm) were both very slightly thicker, and the light card was 230gsm (which I knew), but also very slightly thicker. Printing the covering sheets onto decent quality paper as I do also added to the problem. Why does this matter I hear you ask? well, unlike most Scalescenes kits, this one is built in layers from the bottom up with all components cut out, wrapped and glued in the appropriate covering and then glued onto a 'wall base layer' which forms the back of the low relief structure. eg the lower wall with the doors is first followed by a thin ledge, followed by the first floor windowed wall etc., etc. so the thickness of the card used in the 'ledge layers' and also to a lesser degree the thickness of the cover sheets become very important. In my case the ledge pieces are very slightly thicker than 2mm plus quality coverings resulted in everything above the ledge being positioned higher than it should be but, its not until I offered up the corner post, which is one of the final pieces and shows where the banding should be, that the discrepancy in card thickness became apparent. Food for thought for John maybe..... Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gazmanjack Posted March 2, 2015 Share Posted March 2, 2015 Hi Mike, Could be true what you have stated. I had bought my card from a reputable art supplier in Sydney, (Carrero Art : http://carreroart.com.au/shop/products/Boxboard-1800-Ums-1050-Gsm-760-X-1020.html ). The card sheets are quite large (760 x 1020mm) and 1800 Ums/1050 gsm. Considering 1000 ums is equivilant to 1mm, 1800 would be equivilant to 1.8mm. With a wrapping of standard copy paper (80gsm / 110 Ums), that would make the total thickness of 2.02mm. There isn't much in .02mm and I would say that that amount of discepency shouldn't make a huge difference overall. In fact, if using exact 2mm card, plus the double layer/wrapping of copy paper, then I could understand some form of discepency as you would be looking at .22mm on each piece of card covered. I have put together a few of John's kits and this is the first kit I have come across this problem. It's not really an issue as if I didn't point it out, would it have been picked up ?? Anyway, I'm not overly fussed by it, afterall, it is a great kit to build. Cheers, Gary. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoBo Posted March 4, 2015 Share Posted March 4, 2015 I agree Gary but I'm still convinced it's down to the 'layering' and card thicknesses. I made mine into a standalone with two units side by side;- (Ignore the far right corner post - its upside down in the image and has now been rectified) I also added a different awning to the front - this one from LCut Creative, which I think is better. Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gazmanjack Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 Hi Mike, Your model has come up great. The L-cut awning is excellent, a very nice touch indeed. Cheers, Gary. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gazmanjack Posted March 14, 2015 Share Posted March 14, 2015 I had posted my build of this kit back in post 28, but today I extended the factory, so that it would fill the space adequately. I didn't use the lower wall section with the doors, but opted for a solid wall instead. It still requires some weathering to blend it to match the existing platformed factory. Cheers, Gary. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Job's Modelling Posted March 15, 2015 Share Posted March 15, 2015 Your factory looks good. Think it will be an eye catcher on your layout. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasatcopthorne Posted September 4, 2015 Share Posted September 4, 2015 Here's my go at this kit and making fit in the space I needed to fill. The building is loose fitted behind the fixed loading platform and the last two pics show an end elevation I've made. Cheers Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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