MartinWales Posted January 13, 2015 Share Posted January 13, 2015 Ah! I see the Wil.E.Coyote ACME Mk1 wheels are being used to good effect! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddys-blues Posted January 13, 2015 Share Posted January 13, 2015 Hello Neil, where did you acquire that "em Gauge" set track the model is sat upon ? Looking good .... Best regards Craig. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Neil Posted January 15, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 15, 2015 Hello Neil, where did you acquire that "em Gauge" set track the model is sat upon ? Looking good .... Best regards Craig. Actually at one time I had a bit of a fancy for building some early French stock to 4mm/EM standards. Back with the shunter I managed to fit the motor mounting plate to the chassis today. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Neil Posted February 4, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 4, 2015 (edited) To bring this tale up to date: Pick ups fabricated, brass strip, phosphor bronze wire and fine flex. Side cheeks fitted to chassis. Pick ups wired to motor brushes. Hole cut in footplate to allow motor and flywheel to protrude through. Capping pieces added to side cheeks and pick ups installed. Footplate cut out enlarged to clear pick up to motor connections and tested. Cut outs cut out (well they would be wouldn't they) in the front of the cab and the rear of the bonnet to clear the motor and flywheel. Finally I thought it might be instructive to show what bits of the original shunter that I haven't used or won't be using. Not much left over is there? Edited February 4, 2015 by Neil 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Neil Posted February 8, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 8, 2015 Latest job, cut the radiator surround from 10 thou plastcard and fit to the bonnet end. Dreadfully fiddly stuff. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mastanec Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 (edited) Sir I am monitoring your progress and must say this is some serious modelling here, thumbs up! Edit: I hope you will not mind that I have shared your work on one Czech forum: http://diskuze.modely.biz/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=9107 Edited February 9, 2015 by mastanec Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Neil Posted February 9, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 9, 2015 Sir I am monitoring your progress and must say this is some serious modelling here, thumbs up! Edit: I hope you will not mind that I have shared your work on one Czech forum: http://diskuze.modely.biz/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=9107 Thank you. I have no problem at all with sharing on other forums. I'd be equally happy if you wanted to share my images too, though obviously I can't speak for those who have posted the fantastic prototype photos. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Neil Posted February 25, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 25, 2015 Now with added lights .... ..... well most of them. Dont worry the slices of tubes stock on will be tidied up once I'm fully confident that they're set and solid. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Neil Posted March 28, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 28, 2015 The benefit of having several things on the go is that if you come to a problem with one there's always another to pick up while you think of a way round the difficulty. This morning I was faced with the realisation that I'd cocked up the orientation of a master in its two part mould. While I worked out what to do I opened up my box of CSD shunter bits. The first job was to arrange a proper fixing of the home made chassis to the footplate. This I did by solvent welding a lug onto one end of the chassis through which a bolt passes into a nut held captive on the upper side of the footplate under the bonnet. At the other end is a tab which fits into a slot I built up under the footplate. While the joints hardened I set to and marked out a pair of new buffer beams, the originals being entirely the wrong pattern and therefore not fit for reuse. The hardest part of the job was cutting the thin slot to receive the Piko pressed metal couplers which I'm recycling. A sharp, fresh craft knife blade took away the majority of the slot, final tweaking was with the micro-saw. Unfortunately I boobed in the marking out and the buffer beam was 0.5mm too shallow at the top. Not a problem however as I'll stick on a suitable sized section of microstrip to the top of the beam; emery and filler will blend it all together nicely. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Neil Posted April 11, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted April 11, 2015 Over the last couple of weeks I've spent some further time tinkering with the shunter. Footsteps front and rear have been cut and fitted. Out of sight, a screw fixing for the cab/bonnet unit to the footplate has been engineered. colour has started to make its presence felt; the footplate, steps and buffer beam unit being sprayed in Halfords white primer. The buffer beams were masked off and then it was all sprayed over in Halfords grey primer, as was the cab and bonnet unit. Once dry the buffer beams were brush painted in faded yellow Humbrol enamels; red hazard stripes will follow shortly. The latest task has been to fabricate the handrails, and to fit the bonnet side ones. The others wait the painting of the hazard stripes as their fitting would make a fiddly job harder. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Neil Posted April 12, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted April 12, 2015 More paint today starting with a series of snaps showing the making and using of a paint mask to give a starting point for the hazard warning stripes. If I say that I downloaded a drawing from the net and laminated it to 10thou plasticard the photos should show the rest. Also up for some paint was the shunter body which now wears a coat of thinned powder blue Humbrol. It'll need another coat when this one has hardened off. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonas Posted April 13, 2015 Share Posted April 13, 2015 Ingenious way of masking those warning stripes! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mastanec Posted May 6, 2015 Share Posted May 6, 2015 (edited) Very nice sir, lloks closer to the real thing than my own from etch. The pics are terifying I know, I gave it a rub with bathroom cleaning sand and it looks much better, haven't soldered anything in ages. No. 2 is coming soon and No3 from different manufacturer as well. BR Marian edit: replaced pic 1 for not so dirty loco Edited May 6, 2015 by mastanec 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popopo Posted January 16, 2018 Share Posted January 16, 2018 T211.0 "Piglet" is my guinea pig for the 3D printed gearboxes... 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Neil Posted January 16, 2018 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 16, 2018 They look to be a properly engineered transmission system, nice to see after my dreadful bodging. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now