MikeTrice Posted January 6, 2015 Author Share Posted January 6, 2015 (edited) A better photograph showing the rivetted footplate: Emily's tender has had 10thou "plates" added to the top to give some necessary detail: And trimmed down with filler applied. I have now gone over to Humbrol Filler which is very fine: While the tender was curing, I had a go at rivetting the front footplate with the pounce wheel but cannot fit it until the buffer beam has been replaced. I thought it would take several attempts but I am happy with the first effort: Decided to add the three prominent rivets next to the cab windows. These were sliced off of some 10thou styrene, previously embossed, and floated on with d-Limonene. I think they are OK: Back to the tender it has been sanded down and given a quick spray of primer then beading added using the technique from an earlier post, namely 0.5mm styrene rod scraped down one side with a knife blade to make it half round. Applied with Humbrol Liquid Poly and waiting for final dressing: Oh yes, the new camera seems to be getting good images as well so it looks as if I am back in business ;-) Edited January 6, 2015 by MikeTrice 16 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gr.king Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 Regarding your pounce wheel Mike. How many t.p.i. does it have and how useful / how frequently useful do you find it please? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTrice Posted January 6, 2015 Author Share Posted January 6, 2015 (edited) I have a collection of them. The one used was by Prym and gives rivet spacings of around 2.5mm, too course for general use but in the Single's case not bad. I have a finer version on order and will report back at a later date on receipt. It was originally bought to rivet styrene for 1/24th scale locomotives which have been put to one side for the moment. So in all honesty I do not use them very often but in this instance it proved ideal. The new one is described as 21 tpi which should give a spacing of 1.2mm. Others in the range are 15 tpi giving a spacing of 1.69mm and I will probably follow up with one. Edited January 6, 2015 by MikeTrice Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gr.king Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 (edited) Thanks. We've probably been looking at the same range then, as I noted 21 & 15 tpi versions. I ought to go and measure some loco models then I'll get an impression of what would be most useful. Edited January 7, 2015 by gr.king Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTrice Posted January 7, 2015 Author Share Posted January 7, 2015 More than likely. There are also 18 and 24 tpi versions by Excel available from the States. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTrice Posted January 8, 2015 Author Share Posted January 8, 2015 I don't want to divert too much from the main topic, however the 21 tpi pounce wheel arrived this morning. The following photo shows my original rivets at the top, at the bottom the new 21 tpi ones embossed in 10thou styrene, sprayed with primer together with a GBL GWR Tender for comparison: I now have a 24 tpi one on order from the States. I mentioned the other day that I had ordered a set of Jason's 3D fittings for Emily and did not realise from Shareways UI that I had to click on one of the images to select the Frosted Ultra. Instead I have ordered a "standard" Frosted instead. Unfortunately Shareways cannot change the order, so I will just have to wait and see how they turn out. I emailed an order to Alan Gibson Workshop (as I needed handrail knobs and smokebox door handles) on Tuesday and phoned through my credit card details on the same day. Very impressed to receive them this morning (Thursday) so well done to them for a brilliant turnaround. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium uax6 Posted January 8, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 8, 2015 Mike, As always a very interesting build, going off at tangents here and there, which actually make it much more useful. It's turning into a lovely build, and almost makes me want to build one, although how it would have got to the Highland in the 20's would be anyones guess! Andy G 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted January 9, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 9, 2015 (edited) I don't want to divert too much from the main topic, however the 21 tpi pounce wheel arrived this morning. The following photo shows my original rivets at the top, at the bottom the new 21 tpi ones embossed in 10thou styrene, sprayed with primer together with a GBL GWR Tender for comparison: IMG_0112.JPG I now have a 24 tpi one on order from the States. I mentioned the other day that I had ordered a set of Jason's 3D fittings for Emily and did not realise from Shareways UI that I had to click on one of the images to select the Frosted Ultra. Instead I have ordered a "standard" Frosted instead. Unfortunately Shareways cannot change the order, so I will just have to wait and see how they turn out. I emailed an order to Alan Gibson Workshop (as I needed handrail knobs and smokebox door handles) on Tuesday and phoned through my credit card details on the same day. Very impressed to receive them this morning (Thursday) so well done to them for a brilliant turnaround. Hi mike Although you can't change an order, if they haven't started the process yet, you can delete it and then create a new one. Obviously the clock would start again though. Edited to add: if you stay with FD, then I did try to make sure the bolts and rivets will still be evident. Cheers Jason Edited January 9, 2015 by JCL Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted January 9, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 9, 2015 Mike, As always a very interesting build, going off at tangents here and there, which actually make it much more useful. It's turning into a lovely build, and almost makes me want to build one, although how it would have got to the Highland in the 20's would be anyones guess! Andy G Under its own steam? Remember Rule 1. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTrice Posted January 9, 2015 Author Share Posted January 9, 2015 Hi mike Although you can't change an order, if they haven't started the process yet, you can delete it and then create a new one. Obviously the clock would start again though. Edited to add: if you stay with FD, then I did try to make sure the bolts and rivets will still be evident. Cheers Jason I contacted them directly and they told me I was too late. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortliner Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 Not something that I am ever going to build, but fascinating to read your tale of how you have set about it, and how you have overcome problems - thanks for a great thread! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTrice Posted January 9, 2015 Author Share Posted January 9, 2015 Thanks Jack. I have been putting off further work on the tender due to lack of information regarding what the original tenders looked like. As mentioned previously the NRM do have a genuine GNR Stirling D type tender which is undergoing restoration ready to be coupled to No1. After many searches in Google with various search terms I finally found a few images that I have used as a guideline. The new tender front has been cut out of 30thou styrene. The recess that takes the handbrake handle has been curved, glued in place, and and bottom filler piece fitted: I was in two minds over whether to bother adding the rivets to the front as they probably will not show up, but in the end I thought "to hell with it" and embossed a set in 10thou using the new 21 tpi pounce wheel and earlier dressmaking tracing wheel: The overlay has been fixed in position, a handbrake column fastioned out of 2mm styrene rod, partially scraped 1/2 round for most of its length, and beading added around the coal hole as previously with scraped 0.5mm rod. Here it is complete with finger print: Here is the front glued to the tender body and given a quick blast of primer so you can see the results. (The finger print is still there but far less visible): 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTrice Posted January 9, 2015 Author Share Posted January 9, 2015 I mentioned earlier difficulty in finding photos of the new tender. Just come across this: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10151550223591136.1073741826.20340411135&type=3 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Londontram Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 I mentioned earlier difficulty in finding photos of the new tender. Just come across this: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10151550223591136.1073741826.20340411135&type=3 Handy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
runs as required Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 Thank you for the great detail in which you have logged this project; a most engrossing read. Like an earlier contributor, I too weighed up an Emily a year or two back, pondering whether my Kitmaster versions might be compatable. But that, I'm ashamed to say, is as far as I got .... dh Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 5944 Posted January 9, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 9, 2015 I have been putting off further work on the tender due to lack of information regarding what the original tenders looked like. As mentioned previously the NRM do have a genuine GNR Stirling D type tender which is undergoing restoration ready to be coupled to No1. After many searches in Google with various search terms I finally found a few images that I have used as a guideline. The new, old tender has been fitted for a few months now. Not many photos of it though - a search on Flickr brings up 3 or 4 poor images, but dozens of her in steam at the Great Central 30+ years ago! The rivetting looks good. I'd never heard of a pounce tool before, but it looks very useful. I've got a Springside Peckett kit in O gauge that has poorly cast rivet detail on the tank, but an overlay of thin plasticard with embossed rivets would be perfect. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gr.king Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 Mike: I don't know if this comment includes anything new or helpful for you regarding the tender. http://www.lner.info/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=2443&start=3690#p107127 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTrice Posted January 10, 2015 Author Share Posted January 10, 2015 Mike: I don't know if this comment includes anything new or helpful for you regarding the tender. http://www.lner.info/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=2443&start=3690#p107127 Thanks for that. One of the issues is that the tenders were also upgraded with the Ivatt changes. For example the conical tender vents were fitted to Ivatt modified Singles so the new-old tender should not have them (sorry Jason). It is very difficult to determine with any accuracy from any other photos so I have just gone with the NRM's efforts as being better than nothing. All will probably be revealed AFTER I have finished the build in typical Murphy's Law fashion. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted January 10, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 10, 2015 I received a copy of the GNRS tender book just before Christmas. It's a great book, but reading it you realise very quickly how much information has been lost. No problem on the tender vents. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter jf Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 Following thread with amazement. A riveting read and I cant believe the 3d printing. Had a go at Emily conversion a few years ago (attached). Might well remake it following your great example. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
46256 Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 Following thread with amazement. A riveting read and I cant believe the 3d printing. Had a go at Emily conversion a few years ago (attached). Might well remake it following your great example. dear sir, without in any way detracting from Mikes wonderful work....your version looks stunning...the paint job alone is exceptional....obviously your model. I am really enjoying this thread, some fantastic modelling. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gr.king Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 Some more on those tenders: http://www.lner.info/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=2443&sid=8dc393b1b1b84b7d96d0f255ee1a1afd&start=3690#p107223 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gr.king Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 Following thread with amazement. A riveting read and I cant believe the 3d printing. Had a go at Emily conversion a few years ago (attached). Might well remake it following your great example. I bet we'd all like to know the method you chose for the perforated splasher sides. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter jf Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 gr king don't wish to hijack excellent thread. I worked out that perforations where two holes of 2mm and 1.6 mm diameter. Printed diagram onto sticky paper and attached to 1mm styrene sheet. Set up in my unimat and drilled all the holes and the cut between holes to correct size. Then cut styrene sheet to shade as attached half way through process 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted January 11, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 11, 2015 I don't want to divert too much from the main topic, however the 21 tpi pounce wheel arrived this morning. The following photo shows my original rivets at the top, at the bottom the new 21 tpi ones embossed in 10thou styrene, sprayed with primer together with a GBL GWR Tender for comparison: IMG_0112.JPG I now have a 24 tpi one on order from the States. Very impressive results with the pounce wheel, Mike. Apologies if you've already put this up, but is there a website link to these USA products, please? Many thanks. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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