Kirkby Luneside

[Andrew P]

Hi folks. Yes, I’m still here and popping in occasionally. Not getting any modelling done as a two and s half year old bundle of joy is taking up a lot of my time, plus my main passion in life (mountain biking - been doing it for nearly 30 years now) has taken over a bit. Still got love for the trains though.

 

 

A film of me riding with a mate (met him that day and he had a GoPro). The bit from about 12 minutes scared me - the drop is about 7’

Great stuff JT, I always found it easier with an Engine, still the faster you go the harder you fall.

[Andrew P]

 BTW JT, is that a Slug over your top lip?  

Edited April 4, 2018 by Andrew P

[davefrk]

Hurrah! Jason's back.....  How does he find the time.

Yes easier with an engine but even easier with an engine and four wheels all connected together.

 

Jeff, the station building is looking superb, My goods shed hasn't moved on much as I've been busy with the business, people keep buying stuff and then I've got to replace it....

 

And now I'm operating from a laptop as the main computer has had a core meltdown, luckily the back up hard drive worked so not much has been lost.

 

All the best,

 

Dave Franks.

[Jason T]

Scruffy beard Andy, no time to shave. Actually, it might be mud.

 

Still have the potential to hurt yourself on a mountain bike; some of those trails are narrow and rocky. I hyper-extended my right leg that day (before doing the drop) and it still hurts now. Add that to the shingles I have only just got over (was suffering from it pretty bad that day but thought ‘sod it, I’ll ride anyway) and I was a wreck

[Andrew P]

Scruffy beard Andy, no time to shave. Actually, it might be mud.

 

Still have the potential to hurt yourself on a mountain bike; some of those trails are narrow and rocky. I hyper-extended my right leg that day (before doing the drop) and it still hurts now. Add that to the shingles I have only just got over (was suffering from it pretty bad that day but thought ‘sod it, I’ll ride anyway) and I was a wreck

Having had Shingles, I wouldn't wish it on my worst enemy. One week into a New Job, commission only, and 6 weeks off work, not good.

[Jason T]

Oh yeah, it’s evil. Eight weeks of pain and having a two and a half year old climbing all over you whilst desperately trying to not give her chicken pox (managed it - danger was that Sofia hasn’t had chicken pox and that is REALLY bad for adults) is not something I ever want to repeat. In the end, I just got on with life as I normally do and gritted my teeth through the pain. I went out biking in the first week when it was at it’s worst (three hours up in the mountains, in the snow and ice)

[Physicsman]

Interesting discussion, lads. I've just signed-in, so I'll respond to some of the earlier posts later this evening.

 

I've spent a couple of hours adding brickwork etc to the "annexe". I then had a slightly longer "play" with card for the roof - 25 minutes this time. This is still approximate - some of the end overhangs are too large - but it does give an idea of what the shell looks like with some kind of roof!

 

 

 

 

 

The beauty of card is that it costs virtually nothing and is easier to cut than bits of 2mm ply. The real roof is still a fair time away!

 

Jeff

[Physicsman]

Right, some general comments.

 

Jason, I'm glad you told us it was you in the video. Mad fool. I refer to the hirsute appearance, my man, NOT the crazy things you get up to on that bike of yours. I grew a beard at Uni, and had it for 14 years. Thought it was really cool.....

 

Anyway, you are back - if only until you fall off your bike or go back into hibernation again. As everyone says, good to have you on here.

 

To Dave, thanks for the comments about the station building. At times it's a grind, but day by day it's inching closer to completion.

 

Jeff

[Physicsman]

Hi Jeff,

 

I'm turning my attention to walls of the West Country dry stone type. see photo that I grabbed from Boogle "Street View", typical all over Somerset and further afield

 

Queen Charlton wall and cottage 1.JPG

 

For my first effort I've contented myself with a printed paper for the wall, to my eyes and with no photographic aspirations, the Scalescene products come up very well if carefully prepared. The tops are another matter. I've settled on a 300mm thick wall so its only 4mm thick at scale, how would you go about getting the top stones realistic? They are of a similar thickness but I feel to just use cut up sheet material would look to flat. Any help will be appreciated

 

Wall 1.jpg

 

Colin

Colin, assuming you're not going to start messing around with DAS, I'd suggest a plastikard route.

 

You need the top layer of "coping" stones to come in at around 6-9 inches height, so 2-3 mm to scale. You also want some variation in thickness, to make it look more realistic. Thickness, say, between 2-4 inches, say 1-1.5mm to scale.

 

I'd get some 40thou and 60thou plastikard sheet. Cut the sheet into strips 2mm and 3mm wide, so giving you a height of 6" and 9". Then cut the strips into 4mm lengths, this being the thickness of your wall. Mix the whole lot of chopped bits in a cup and randomly pull pieces out and stick them on top of the wall as they appear with PVA.

 

This way, you get 2 different heights (2mm and 3mm - so 6 and 9") and 2 different thicknesses (1mm, 40thou = 3" and 1.5mm, 60thou = 4.5"), so 4 different possibilities. If you want more variation, do 2 and 3mm strips in 20thou, giving scale heights of 6 and 9", and thicknesses of 0.5mm = 1.5").

 

I hope that makes some kind of sense?

 

Don't forget, not all walls will have vertical coping tops. Some (as on the S&C, to protect the wall below) will have angled stones. I suppose it depends on the type of wall they build in Somerset.

 

Jeff

Edited April 4, 2018 by Physicsman

[Andrew P]

Right, some general comments.

 

Jason, I'm glad you told us it was you in the video. Mad fool. I refer to the hirsute appearance, my man, NOT the crazy things you get up to on that bike of yours. I grew a beard at Uni, and had it for 14 years. Thought it was really cool.....

 

Anyway, you are back - if only until you fall off your bike or go back into hibernation again. As everyone says, good to have you on here.

 

To Dave, thanks for the comments about the station building. At times it's a grind, but day by day it's inching closer to completion.

 

Jeff

I'm currently watching a Video, one of many by Michael James Smith, he is an Artist and paints in Oils for Photo Realistic Paintings, 4 days to do a bank of Trees, almost one leaf at a time.

And whilst watching the Video, it made me think of you and the Station Building, and the hours it takes to achieve the results that you know you want.

Keep it up Jeff, just superb.

[PeterBB]

Useful tutorial ... I was wondering about the best way to cap my canal wall ... I now now - thanks.

 

Peter

[Physicsman]

Useful tutorial ... I was wondering about the best way to cap my canal wall ... I now now - thanks.

 

Peter

Peter, plastikard is good, but a bit limited in terms of height and range.

 

If you can "stretch" to DAS, the variety of wall toppings can be much more varied. Send me a photo of your canal wall, with dimensions, and I'll have a think...

 

Jeff

Edited April 4, 2018 by Physicsman

[lmsforever]

The S&C station buildings are certainly large and have many odd corners on them which you have captured very wel,l like the brickwork will you being recreating the blackened look I see in every picture of them ? Chris

[Physicsman]

The S&C station buildings are certainly large and have many odd corners on them which you have captured very wel,l like the brickwork will you being recreating the blackened look I see in every picture of them ? Chris

 

Hi Chris.

 

I wrote an extensive reply to your question, which the web-page managed to "lose". The answer to your question is "yes", details as they develop.

 

Jeff

[Physicsman]

Having played around with card, I just couldn't resist cutting out some roof sections from 2mm ply. So this is the result.....

 

 

 

 

Nothing fixed in place, of course - bits of masking tape used to try to keep the roof bits in position: 2mm ply is quite smooth and slippy!

 

Jeff

[Rowsley17D]

 

Looking good, Jeff. It will be a solid as the real thing. Don't forget to put in the lead flashing in the roof valleys before you start slating. Guess who didn't until half way down one slope?

[Physicsman]

Looking good, Jeff. It will be a solid as the real thing. Don't forget to put in the lead flashing in the roof valleys before you start slating. Guess who didn't until half way down one slope?

 

Thanks for the reminder, though it'll be a little while before we get there. I was actually thinking about lead flashing earlier today when examining the roof bays. I know Jason has some tips on flashing in "Building Bacup" - I think it was nothing but coloured card. If anyone has any simple suggestions, please let me know. AND when you see me starting the tiling process (I'll do the roof the same way I did the goods sheds - back on pages 170-something - REMIND ME! I'm bound to forget!!

 

Since I'm in the mood, I may as well cut a bit of 2mm ply for the other side. Still LOTS to do - before we get close to painting, let alone roofing.

 

Jeff

[aberdare]

Hi Jeff

 

That roof has totally transformed the building and it now looks fantastic, not that it didn't anyway but it's just gone to another level.

 

As for the roof valleys I would use paper, but because I usually make a roof in one piece if I can, I only paint the card before tiling, however on most of my buildings the tiles meet and nothing is visible.

 

Now that I've been inspired it's back to painting individual slates.

 

Jim

[Andrew P]

That roof has made a real difference Jeff, stunning mate.

[Physicsman]

Thanks Jim.

 

I've cut the ply for the other side, pics below.

 

 

 

 

 

I'm assuming you put your tiles on one by one, rather than the "row technique" I've used? I'm thinking that if I can put 50,000 stones into Fell walling one by one, maybe I ought to do the same for the station. Any advice?

 

Jeff

[lambiedg]

Thanks for the reminder, though it'll be a little while before we get there. I was actually thinking about lead flashing earlier today when examining the roof bays. I know Jason has some tips on flashing in "Building Bacup" - I think it was nothing but coloured card. If anyone has any simple suggestions, please let me know. AND when you see me starting the tiling process (I'll do the roof the same way I did the goods sheds - back on pages 170-something - REMIND ME! I'm bound to forget!!

 

Since I'm in the mood, I may as well cut a bit of 2mm ply for the other side. Still LOTS to do - before we get close to painting, let alone roofing.

 

Jeff

Jeff

 

Your local craft shop will probably stock A4 sheets of "metallic" effect paper. I've used one that was a good match for sheet lead. Not too shiny either

[Physicsman]

Jeff

 

Your local craft shop will probably stock A4 sheets of "metallic" effect paper. I've used one that was a good match for sheet lead. Not too shiny either

 

That's a good suggestion, which I'll look into. Thanks for the idea.

 

 

That roof has made a real difference Jeff, stunning mate.

 

You snook that post in without me noticing! I was playing with card yesterday and, to be honest, after doing a wonderful walk in the spring sunshine this morning, I couldn't be bothered with any glue work today.

 

Idle fingers and idle minds - so some 2mm ply got chopped! It does give a sense of "getting there"....

 

Jeff

Edited April 5, 2018 by Physicsman

[Jason T]

Put the slates on individually and it will be almost impossible to keep them uniform. Too many models are ruined by the roofs being messy (rustic??); if you look at the real station roof, I bet that almost every slate is perfectly aligned and spaced.

 

Strips is the way to go mate

[Physicsman]

Put the slates on individually and it will be almost impossible to keep them uniform. Too many models are ruined by the roofs being messy (rustic??); if you look at the real station roof, I bet that almost every slate is perfectly aligned and spaced.

Strips is the way to go mate

I was (kind of) hoping you'd appear and say that, as it makes my task SO much easier. Both the DAS and Wills goods sheds have used your strip technique and it's simple, effective and relatively quick.

 

And consistent.

 

I'm "putting out feelers" for bits of advice, especially as I feel I've been working in an almost total vacuum since last year. Always happy to accept proven methodologies.

 

Jeff

[aberdare]

Hi Jeff

 

I'm in with strips too, that is how I have done all mine so far and as Jason says I would only use individual ones for a rustic/dilapidated look, I only form pantiles individually but again it is done from a strip to get alignment. Mine will be a little more uneven than yours being rural but the station ones are well maintained.

 

Apart from letting my cutter do the work it is pretty much the same as on my last thread post.

 

All the best

 

 

Jim